Wellllll not really. I'm sure a few of you have seen the looong progression of Rotozuks samurai buildup, well now its gettin torn back down for another build. Wayne brought it down to my shop right after we broke the rear end at EJS and its been sitting in the parking lot getting slowly stripped for parts. Well now its gettin stripped down all the way. Stay tuned for the progress pics. Waynes goal is to have it rolling again for EJS this march, and I'm gonna hold him to it. :D

Heres the before pic
http://rz-products.com/WAYNE/trips/040414/webwaynes1%20475.jpg

and heres all thats left.........of the original zuk anyways.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne003.JPG

a few more of the teardown
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne001.JPG

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne002.JPG

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne004.JPG

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne005.JPG

Dallas

:cool2: cool Dallas! thanks for the update. keep that slacker on schedule :D

Dang, what is the wheelbase ?

Looks pimp :grinpimp:

Wow, that first rebuild didn't last long. What's the goal of the new rebuild? Street legal still, trailer queen, 2 or more seats?

So, let's see..

Wayne must like to wheel just once a year, correct?

i think so :flipoff2:

Dang, what is the wheelbase ?
93" wheelbase

Hey, that looks just like my frame! :grinpimp:

Look for a buildup thread starting soon :smokin:

Ahh.. Funny I didn't know you had snapped all those pics. Well, it's true.. I wasn't going to post anything until the build up had some momentum going, but what the hey.

This Samurai has gone through the ringer over the years that I have been running and wrenching on it. The last build up worked out pretty well, and I was very happy with it in general... Until I did a couple of night runs with tubed out rigs. I love night runs, and few sheetmetal rigs seemed interested in joining me, so I kept getting out wheeled by tubed rigs. So if you can't beat them, join them. Too bad I spent about 2 years on the last build up, and only wheeled it for 9 months!! I will not repeat that exercise.

So let the build up begin... The basics of the driveline will stay the same, but I'm going to drop in a fresh W56 transmission and a 4:1 gear in the rear t-case. The rear axle is now a 99 4Runner unit and ARBs for both axles. A different clutch will also probably get dropped in as I did overpower the clutch a couple of times in the dunes. I also hope to use my new transmission adapter plates, but we shall see. A lighter flywheel is also in the mix, and another 75 horse power should be available via some small engine changes.

For the chassis, I'm still keeping an open mind to most every aspect, but some basic goals are:
Safety
longer wheel base (over 100 inches)
no more axle wrap! links front and rear
Fox air shocks (or similar), probably 12 or 14 inch travel
improved engine ducting of water, intake and exhaust routes.
Keep It Simple whenever possible.
Street legal??(ish)

It will be more of a trailer queen then I have ever built, but I do need this to be a street registered vehicle for our local trails. Green sticker is the kiss of death for many areas around here.

Oh yeah, hopefully I will not repeat the ugly grill mistake!

Don't look for a bunch of progress in the coming weeks though. A lot of little stuff needs to happen first, and I'm going wheeling this weekend. the following weekend I'll probably be rebuilding the W56, and installing the rear ARB. The following week I might have the chassis jig we are borrowing from a friend. Heck, I have not even decided on what material the chassis is going to be built from.. Ack!

-Wayne

Good luck with the build Wayne, and keep us posted with plenty of pics!!

Waynes goal is to have it rolling again for EJS this march,




Hah,he'll never make it! :flipoff2:

$5 says you still beat me to the trails :(

can't wait to see this build wayne.

well it does help that wayne actually comes to the shop to work on his junk once in a while chris :flipoff2:

Dallas

One more pic for you guys. This is the rigs current state, in the corner of the shop. And yes you are seeing multiple trannys, t-cases and axlehousings. It seems wayne is very skilled at collecting parts.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne006.JPG

Dallas

It seems wayne is very skilled at collecting parts.

And filling up your shop with them. :grinpimp:

I like the new posters in the shop!

Had a great wheeling weekend, and am ready to get this thing going. Dallas, we are going to have to drag you out to Panamint Valley!

-Wayne

Is there another material option besides Chromolly?
Mmmmm.... Chromolly.... Gooooood.
I guess you need to spend some more time at Rusty's!
:D

Is there another material option besides Chromolly?
Mmmmm.... Chromolly.... Gooooood.
I guess you need to spend some more time at Rusty's!
:D

Rusty was telling me of an option on Chromolly that does sound interesting. If it pans out, I will go that way, but if I have to pay normal retail prices, I don't think it will fit the budget. What'cha doing this week? How about a project visit?

-Wayne

Wayne,

Definitely looking forward to this build! EJS??? That's a bit ambitious, but Jim/Brett/Garry said that you'd find an excuse to skip a year. Something about a seat up in a tree? :eek: If you are planning on getting it finished before EJS...ever thought of welding your seats in? Jus' a thought.

Wayne,

Definitely looking forward to this build! EJS??? That's a bit ambitious, but Jim/Brett/Garry said that you'd find an excuse to skip a year. Something about a seat up in a tree? :eek: If you are planning on getting it finished before EJS...ever thought of welding your seats in? Jus' a thought.


Yeah, no kidding! I'm going to have to invest in a wig and fake mustache or something to hide from those guys.. The practical jokes got a little out of hand last year, and I dread the pay back this year. I blame Dallas for all of it. :grinpimp:

With a little luck I think I can pull this one off. I'm more worried about the budget holding up! I'm not really changing the major systems, they are all carry over, but I know these things tend to spin out of control.

-Wayne

-Wayne

Hey Wayne,
Come on out any day this week. I'm waiting on Header U bends to get here so I can start on the header, the last major ordeal for this project! It's kinda bitter/sweet to see the finish line on a project like this. Sounds like we'll all have new buggies to wheel at Moab this year! I can't wait.

Sweet! Did not know you were planning on hitting Moab. Should be a blast, i know we are already working on getting the Zukfari organized, and Jim has got the raffle going...

Anyhow, I'll criose over tonight. I'll give you a call.

As for chassis materials.. Still waiting to hear a price on the spendy metal. HREW is about $35 per stick for 1.5" from the local source, so that might be what gets used. Waiting for Randy to call me on the other.

Going to start laying out the plans this weekend, order up the tube during the week, and maybe get some chassis work done during the holiday. Hopefully Rusty will get his art project rolling so I can swipe the chassis jig.

-Wayne

One more pic for you guys. This is the rigs current state, in the corner of the shop. And yes you are seeing multiple trannys, t-cases and axlehousings. It seems wayne is very skilled at collecting parts.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne006.JPG

Dallas

What, a ladder frame for the rig? Is that weight savings or what!

What, a ladder frame for the rig? Is that weight savings or what!


Shh! Don't tell anyone, but that is for the adjustable wheel base. :shaking:

Well, doesn't seem like much, but I have some of the changes made for the engine and drivline. Basically I installed the new 4:1 t-case, flipped the turbo around, built a new O2 housing (this gets rid of 270 degrees of bends in the exhaust system), rebuilt the Saginaw pump bracket, located a new idler setup for the serpentine belt and located and half installed an A/C compressor from an old Subaru. Also worked out some issues for new motor mounts, and a few other goodies.. Chassis jig should be available this Sunday.

-Wayne

Sorry, the motor still has Moab dirt on it:

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/100_2334.jpg

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/100_2331.jpg

and the ghetto powersteering bracket #2:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/100_2332.jpg

-Wayne

and the ghetto powersteering bracket #2:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/100_2332.jpg




Might want to turn up the heat on your welder, those look like the Petroworks welds on my old motor mounts. The weld beads should be slightly concave, on the verge of undercutting the material around it.

That was waynes first try with my welder (maybe his first with shield gas?) and it took him a little while to get the hang of it. Basically moving way too fast. He's gettin better.

Dallas

That was waynes first try with my welder (maybe his first with shield gas?) and it took him a little while to get the hang of it. Basically moving way too fast. He's gettin better.

Dallas

Scrap it and tell him to start over :flipoff2:

Yeah, I know.. I think Dallas took that photo at that angle just to show off the really shitty welds. Don't worry, the welds got better as I went, and yes the welder was turned up all the way. I lioke the control of the weld with Flux core a lot more, but with time I should be doing really nice welds with the MIG. My A/C bracket should look a lot better. I hope.

I'm not going to start over on that thing.. I hate that bracket. It is a royal pian in the ass to fabricate. All welds are double sided, and should be fine. If not, I'll probably just weld more welds onto the old welds! Yuk!! even with crappy welds itis still better then my last bracket, and it held up for 9 months of abuse.

-Wayne

Yeah, I know.. I think Dallas took that photo at that angle just to show off the really shitty welds. Don't worry, the welds got better as I went, and yes the welder was turned up all the way. I lioke the control of the weld with Flux core a lot more, but with time I should be doing really nice welds with the MIG. My A/C bracket should look a lot better. I hope.



Were those done with a 110 machine? In all honesty that's about the best I got out of my old 110, I did most of my welding with the 220v stick welder because I couldn't get the material hot enough with the 110. Once I got the 220v MIG it was a different story. Another issue is the power cord length. My 110 was a yard sale special and the previous owner had put a 50ft cord on it, I suspect it was too long and not a big enough wire size. The thing would cut out after only 5 minutes of welding and even at full blast wasn't that hot. I didn't know any better at the time.

Yeah, this is a Hobart 110 volt Mig on an extension cord. It will shut down if you really weld like a crazy man, but I personally have not had this happen, or even seen it happen to Dallas.

When I weld slower, and actually have the right wire speed set, it does weld pretty darn well. Just doesn't have the heat that flux core has on 110 volts. I have seen Dallas pull of some really nice welds with this unit, it can be done.

-Wayne

p.s. As a side note, when I picked up some more wire for the welder the guy ringing me up asked how weliked the Hobart. I said just fine, but it has been in for a warranty repair already. Then on the drive back to the shop I remembered that it also had a booty fabbed wire job as the torch handle stopped working, and the gas regulator had to be replaced, and the wire speed adjustment seems to move if you look at it wrong..

Well in its defense I'm pretty sure the cheapo regulator failed because I tipped the bottle over on it a few times, and the trigger wire most likely died from me using it to drag the machine around the shop all the time. The wire speed knob is just plain easy to turn. As for the circuit board that failed, well I've got no defense for that. Overall though I'd say its held up quite well for the last 3.5 years. It does great on 1/8-3/16" material which is almost all I use, and if you take your time it'll burn up 1/4" plate.

Dallas

Picked up the Chassis jig this weekend.. Will have to start a real thread for this project soon.

-Wayne

Remember to allow for UPTRAVEL! It's part of the secret to having a "good" prerunner.
:flipoff2:

Remember to allow for UPTRAVEL! It's part of the secret to having a "good" prerunner.
:flipoff2:


Yep.. Going to build it at full stuff like Rusty did. Just seems a more logical way to build 'em.

-Wayne

http://lttlbddy.com/albums/Misc/wayne006.jpg

Sounds like the beginning of TOOBZOOKULA is taking place, can't wait.

Rusty

Thought I'd post some pics of our progress from this weekend. Not a lot to show really, but we got some good ideas flowing. Got a couple little secrets in store ;)

Got tube?
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne007.jpg

Heres a shot of the chassis jig before we started bolting stuff to it.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne008.jpg

The single dumbest pic of wayne ever, even the mexican guy in the background thinks wayne looks like an idiot :flipoff2:
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne009.jpg

Cleaning
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne010.jpg

Heres how the drivetrain all mounts on to the jig.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne011.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne012.jpg

Dallas

Gee thanks for the retard photo. :clown: Where is the blingin' exhaust photo?

-Wayne

well you did ask me to take a picture.:rasta: I dont have any of the exhaust yet, but I'll get one tomorrow.

Dallas

did ya use anything but water to clean the drivetrain? looks pretty damn clean. I ask because my motor/trans/case are out and in need of degreasing

did ya use anything but water to clean the drivetrain? looks pretty damn clean. I ask because my motor/trans/case are out and in need of degreasing

Just water and 2600 PSI. If you have a really messy one, then pre soak in your favorite cleaner or degreaser, then blast, but high PSI is the key. While mine looked dirty, it was just a minor surface oiling with trail dirt stuck to it. Not 15 years worth of crap. The rear most t-case has about 15 years of backed on crud. It took a lot more effort to get it semi-clean.

-Wayne

Um...is it just me or??? :D

Um...is it just me or??? :D

Bahahah! :laughing: :laughing:

-Wayne

Thanks Wayne, I do have a couple years of grime, nothing some simple green and a power washer cant fix though. never thought youd have another project so quick, look forward to watching the buildup.

Got some pictures of the *bling* exhaust/passenger warmer
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne013.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne014.jpg

Dallas

Is that mild steel tubing I see? Ooops, was that supposed to be one of the SECRETS?
:flipoff2:

Can you not get the front end to stuff any higher, what is the oil pan clearance and crank center height? What is the height of the t-case? Common, spill it before the tube starts coming on.

Is that mild steel tubing I see? Ooops, was that supposed to be one of the SECRETS?
:flipoff2:

Can you not get the front end to stuff any higher, what is the oil pan clearance and crank center height? What is the height of the t-case? Common, spill it before the tube starts coming on.


The 3rd member is about 1 inch or less away from hitting the engines oil pump in that image. I could move the axle further forward to get it higher, but not sure it would leave me much room for the radiator above it. (19x22 radiator)

No secrets on this build.. Mild steel. Decided to not mess with the chormo this time around, I leave that to the experts. Engine and driveline is not yet cemented down. I'm thinking ride height would only be about 6" below what you see in that picture. I have not yet started measuring everything though. Still working on some other issues.

What are you thinking?

-Wayne

Under 30" Crank center height with at least 23 inches of clearance at the t-case. I'd just try to keep the weight down as low as you can. What are you planning for the link suspension? I would figure around 21-22" of clearance under the belly for an average ride height and plan to be able to drop it a couple of inches and raise it a couple of inches. You're running air shocks right? At maximum ride height I figure to have the shocks in a 70/30 set up, that is 70% dropped out and 30% compressed. But that's just me, I like to go fast through the desert where up travel is big. Go take a look at how the sand cars or desert trucks have their shocks set up and they should give you some good ideas. If it works in the desert it will most likely work in the rocks. Tire droop is overrated! If you need some belly skid material I have some 7075 T6 aluminum left over that we got for a very good deal. Anywho that just my .02.

The belly skid is one of the little tricks we're planning. After looking at pics of a lot of buggys and mapping out seat placement, etc. We found that a lot of people have a good amount of dead space under the seats/floor up front. Our plan is to build dual fuel tanks under the floor on the driver and passenger side, using the belly skid as part of the tanks, and using both the tanks and skid as integral parts of the frame structure. Also thinkin of building in a small water tank on the passenger side next to the exhaust for nice warm wash water for those cold camp mornings.

Dallas

.... using the belly skid as part of the tanks, ....
Dallas

ala Pinto..., very nice :flipoff2:

Under 30" Crank center height with at least 23 inches of clearance at the t-case. I'd just try to keep the weight down as low as you can. What are you planning for the link suspension? I would figure around 21-22" of clearance under the belly for an average ride height and plan to be able to drop it a couple of inches and raise it a couple of inches. You're running air shocks right? At maximum ride height I figure to have the shocks in a 70/30 set up, that is 70% dropped out and 30% compressed. But that's just me, I like to go fast through the desert where up travel is big. Go take a look at how the sand cars or desert trucks have their shocks set up and they should give you some good ideas. If it works in the desert it will most likely work in the rocks. Tire droop is overrated! If you need some belly skid material I have some 7075 T6 aluminum left over that we got for a very good deal. Anywho that just my .02.


Thanks Eric, I actually still have some of your PMs regarding some of the early discussions in this area. I will be trying to keep the C of G as low as possible, but not going totally crazy in this regard. I'm looking forward to building this one pretty low, 22" is my goal. Yes, air shocks, and a centered winch to suck it down/preload. I'm also planning on a rear anti-sway.

Are you saying 70% of the shock exposed? I thought in the past you were saying 30% of the shock exposed when at rest. I'm planning on using the 14" shocks and was thinking of about 5-6" of shaft exposed at rest. I would like to drive circles around Rusty's on the dirt roads. :grinpimp:

-Wayne

Yes 70% exposed. 70/30 is pretty much the standard for off road sand cars. On my old car I had it about 50/50, then I moved it to about 60/40 on the front and it worked a lot better. So 60% of the shock shaft is exposed. There are of course other benefits to running the shock like this. For rockcrawling it keeps you from just running your tires in holes and having all the straine and torque applied to the axles when you have to climb your way out of them. The wheeling is a lot more predictable and not nearly as hard on parts. You would still have the rockcrawling ability because you have the up travel. Total travel is the same just different. Set it up for 50/50 or 60/40 with the 14's and I now you won't ever go back. Tire droop is so OLD SCHOOL! hahaha
:flipoff2:

I wonder about incorporating the fuel tanks into the belly skid. That skid will slowly wear away and you could be in for a bang should it wear through, and spark. Also, what if you have to drop your belly to access the drivetrain? That would kinda suck to have to take all the fuel out. I like the idea of having the fuel beneath the seats, but I'd seriously rethink the incorporated idea. When your skid wears out you'd have to build both a new skid and tanks? Also anytime you add a skid you are adding shear strength to the frame structure and to a certain degree impact and tensile strength. Running a centered winch sounds cool that way the weight moves away from being totally front heavy. Speaking of heavy, have you weighed the powertrain? I'd like to know how much that motor, trans., and t-cases weighs.

Yes 70% exposed. 70/30 is pretty much the standard for off road sand cars. On my old car I had it about 50/50, then I moved it to about 60/40 on the front and it worked a lot better. So 60% of the shock shaft is exposed. There are of course other benefits to running the shock like this. For rockcrawling it keeps you from just running your tires in holes and having all the straine and torque applied to the axles when you have to climb your way out of them. The wheeling is a lot more predictable and not nearly as hard on parts. You would still have the rockcrawling ability because you have the up travel. Total travel is the same just different. Set it up for 50/50 or 60/40 with the 14's and I now you won't ever go back. Tire droop is so OLD SCHOOL! hahaha
:flipoff2:

I wonder about incorporating the fuel tanks into the belly skid. That skid will slowly wear away and you could be in for a bang should it wear through, and spark. Also, what if you have to drop your belly to access the drivetrain? That would kinda suck to have to take all the fuel out. I like the idea of having the fuel beneath the seats, but I'd seriously rethink the incorporated idea. When your skid wears out you'd have to build both a new skid and tanks? Also anytime you add a skid you are adding shear strength to the frame structure and to a certain degree impact and tensile strength. Running a centered winch sounds cool that way the weight moves away from being totally front heavy. Speaking of heavy, have you weighed the powertrain? I'd like to know how much that motor, trans., and t-cases weighs.


Well, glad I asked about the shocks as I was not understanding what you had said before. Anyhting will be better then the very limited up travel I had on the last version! The spring ratio on the shock will be OK with this much exposed shaft? Actually, I guess it might actually be better since it will have a bit more nitorgen pressure for this much shock showing. I'm assuming this is the "unstrapped" length?

Fuel tank. If I find that the fuel tank is taking a real beating, then I will add a bit more protection to it, but depending on design I don't think you could spring a leak in the sucker within a couple of seasons of abuse. We shall see I guess. As for if it does manage to develope a leak, I'm not all that worried about it being a fire hazard, I've seen plenty of FJ40s and Willey's that leak gas all over the place, and have yet to see one catch fire despite plenty of rock grinding. Not ton mention leaking fuel cans on the back of rigs, etc. I guess I should knock on wood while I'm saying this, but I just do not consider liquid gasoline all that dangerous.

As for belly access, the fuel tanks will be on the sides, not in the way of servicing anything. I hope.

-Wayne

Hey Eric, what material you recommend for links? I'm planning on 34" links on the lowers and the only material I can find so far is 1.5" x .250 DOM at about $7.60/foot. I can special order a few other sizes, but they cost a bunch more and I have to buy a full stick. Link layout will be very similar to your new rig, 3 link with panhard.

Should be able to sleeve the DOM with some 1.75x.120 HREW we have in the shop if needed. Since I'm running RE joint at both ends of the lower links, I will be mounting the shocks to the axles, thus I do not want to risk a link failure.

One more question, you know of a good source for heims? Thinking of 3/4" units for the upper links and panhards, but don't like some of the prices I have been seeing, might as well get some more RE joints since they are cheaper once you add up all of the heims bits from most sources.

-Wayne

I would like to drive circles around Rusty's on the dirt roads. :grinpimp:

-Wayne

Ok Wayne;

What you would like to do, and what you can do may have absolutly nothing in common. You may want to consider trying to stop thinking like "Wayne" and listen to what people are trying to warn you about. For example: building a gas tank thats part of a skid plate, Most OEM gas tanks are made of some very thin steel and held in with straps. Why wouldn't you just make the lightest tank you could and just protect it with a skid plate, where it could be of a different material if needed. Your thinking worrys me! But keep it up, because it is entertaining.

Rusty

Ok Wayne;

What you would like to do, and what you can do may have absolutly nothing in common. You may want to consider trying to stop thinking like "Wayne" and listen to what people are trying to warn you about. For example: building a gas tank thats part of a skid plate, Most OEM gas tanks are made of some very thin steel and held in with straps. Why wouldn't you just make the lightest tank you could and just protect it with a skid plate, where it could be of a different material if needed. Your thinking worrys me! But keep it up, because it is entertaining.

Rusty


Arghh! I hate it when you guys gang up on me. :shaking:

I'm more worried about how the heck I would slosh seal the chassis tanks then anyhting. So how about a skid plate with a fiberglass tank built right on top of that. Would that make you all happier? Sure would be harder to make.

-Wayne

:

. So how about a skid plate with a fiberglass tank built right on top of that. -Wayne

That would be fine as long as they are not connected.

I dont see how this would be any different from the heavy duty tank wayne was running before. I know tons of people that run plate steel tanks with no skid without problems. I see your point with eventually grinding through it, but with heavy plate I dont think thats an issue for a long time and other than that I fail to see the problem.

Dallas

You are right Dallas, you could make the tank/skid plate thick enough on the bottom for the skid and the sides for fatigue prevention and probably come up with a way to get fuel out of it at any angle imaginable without pulling air. But after rereading this entire thread, I realized I made the mistake of assuming that building it as light as possible was one of the criteria. Now that I see that it's not, throw as much steel at it as necessary, but don't let Wayne cry when he still gets left behind on those night runs. Because the new tube frame buggies that he'll be running with might have been built with higher regard for light weight. Now you can flame me for running #500 axles. Also, Wayne's old tank was in a fairly gaurded position, where your talking is the most damaged spot on a rig.

Rusty

Weight is a consideration, but not the main one. We talked this over a bit this weekend and haven't made a firm decision yet. It would add a bit of weight, but its nice and centered and down quite low, plus I think wayne was planning on running a steel belly skid to begin with, so not a whole lot added there. We did a good bit of work again this weekend, though most of it isn't all that visible. Started on the front link bracketry on the axle and got the front axle assembled. Packaging all of the steering, panhard, radiator, intercooler, steering box and winch is gonna be a fairly major challenge, and not having all of the parts isn't a big help. This is what has kept us from bending any tube thus far. Radiator should be showing up tomorrow so we'll see what happens in the next week or so.

Dallas

Man, all this reading hurts my empty head. I need PICS!!!! :D

Man, all this reading hurts my empty head. I need PICS!!!! :D

You know what, you're right. Heres a shot of the front link brackets wayne started on.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne016.jpg

And a pic of the hood that we are still cleaning up for molding. Got a nice new coat of paint.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne015.jpg


Dallas

I may be somewhat of a noob here... but I have to ask..

i like the idea of the tank being part of the chassis, and also under the seats. not only does it save space, but it puts alot of weight low, and centered in the vehicle. Have you thought about running a plastic skid under the tank? I see the comp rigs use and abuse them, if it wears out... just change it. if nothing else it would provide an added sence of security.

Well, It looks like almost nothing changed, but steady progress was made. Dallas also finished off bending and notching a really nice Bronco cage.

Anyhow some details. I took Nerple's suggestions and we raised the axle and moved it forward a bit. This was looking pretty good for a number of issues like panhard mount, etc. until I started looking at what it was going to do to radiator mounting and steering box locations. It basically sat the steering box on the axle, and the radiator was pushed up higer then the engine, thus hurting site lines. I know many people building a buggy these days shove the radiator out back, but this is more a recreational rig, and I'd like the radiator up front so I have more room out back for passengers and gear. So after some brain straining the axle went back down 1.5" and stayed in the forward location. As Dallas said, the radiator should arrive today, so after Xmas I'll be able to see how things are going to fit a bit more.

For now I have a shpping list that needs to be filled. Oh yeah, going to use RE joints for all link ends.

-Wayne

smart move on all of the RE ends. Wish I had the money for that. I did bushings and auroras, hopefully I can upgrade to the RE sometime :cool2:

smart move on all of the RE ends. Wish I had the money for that. I did bushings and auroras, hopefully I can upgrade to the RE sometime :cool2:


I already have enough RE's for the lower links, and was planning to run rod ends for the uppers, but the cost was just to high. The RE joints are actually cheaper when you add everything up for the rod ends. Most rod ends like the QA1 or Auroras seem to be about $30 for a good one plus a mis-alingment spacers and weld in bungs. While the RE's retail for $30-$35.

-Wayne

Curious as to why you would make a steel skid. I suppose out of ease or lack of any other material out there, but common! Just cause all that weight is centered and down low, DON'T make it right! I used a 3X4 foot piece of 200 wall aluminum on my belly skid and it weighed in just under 30 pounds. I can't even imagine wanting let alone using a skid that weighed 90 pounds, as it would with steel, no matter how low or centered it was. The new tip for the day, week, month, hell even year for that matter, is to THINK LIGHT! Stop and think for a moment on why a samurai makes for a good wheeler when built right. Flyweight! My old rig didn't have much power, maybe 80+ horsepower, yet it would get around better than most of the vehicles out there just cause it was relatively lightweight and had a fairly decent suspension, both of which lead to creating a nimble and very capable rig. It seems to me that in rockcrawling and desert prerunning, you have to think hosepower to weight ratio, but everything has to be lightweight as well. Let's make a comparison. If you ever watched JR's bronco try to climb the waterfall on BackDoor and compared that to how my old samurai climbed it, there is a huge difference. Sure he had tons of horsepower, but he also had tons of weight. Seems to me that pig weighed in the neighborhood of 4500 pounds and had somewhere around 400 horses. The nerple weighs just under 2400 pounds with 80 horses. Now I know your rig isn't gunna weigh 4500 pounds, but like Rusty and I always talk about, it's a slippery slope. Seems most formula toyotas weigh around 3000 or more pounds, so with your power and drivetrain, i'd be thinking of how to save every last pound I could, otherwise you will be seeing high weight figures, and you definitely don't have the hosepower that JR has! If'n it were me, I'd build as light of a fuel cell as you can and put that under your seats and then either use 7075 aluminum for the skid or some UHMW backed with a thin sheet of aluminum. It will definitely be lighter, yet accomplish the same goals you have in mind. As for power train placement, I get that motor as far back as you can without sacrificing the rear driveline too much. You remember Randy's buggy right, his weight ratio is 60/40 front biased, which is pretty good considering it's a front engine car with a 60 front end and a toyota rear end and pretty much nothing on the back end of the car other than an empty fuel cell! The more centered but slightly front biased you can make that car the better. Anywho onto other things. Are you using cold rolled plate for your link brackets? How thick of material are you using? Might consider making some bungs to beef up the area where the bolt goes through so the material doesn't wabble out. I just used some chromolly 1/2 id, 7/8 od tube and cut 3/16 slivers off it and welded them to the plate for extra bearing support. Otherwise it will definitely wabble out the hole within a season. I bought all my rod ends from rodendsupply.com. They make their own rodends as well as sell others. They are stronger than your aurora, FK, and other brands and quite a bit cheaper as well, at least when I bought mine.

Well put, lightweight, is what I'm getting ready to build two of, trail buggies. :smokin:

I'm thinking with my engine as far back as it is, I should have a pretty good weight distribution. Pretty much all weight except for the front winch will be behind the front axle. The axle is currently about 5-6" in front of the crank.

As for the skid plate weight. I see your point, and I always have been aware of this. I'm putting a lot of thought to keeping this vehicle on the light side. I do tend to like steel for how well it slides across rocks.

Yes, cold rolled 3/16" material so far for the link brackets. As for the doubler, I will either double up the 3/16" material around the bolt holes (make washers) or do something a bit more fancy down the road. It will probably go to Moab without any doublers as the fancy plan will take some time to put into place.

Ordered up some more RE joints last night. Picked them up for $30 per large and 26.50 per small shipped. The last order was something like $28 per large with shipping and tax.

-Wayne

Curious as to why you would make a steel skid. I suppose out of ease or lack of any other material out there, but common! Just cause all that weight is centered and down low, DON'T make it right! I used a 3X4 foot piece of 200 wall aluminum on my belly skid and it weighed in just under 30 pounds. I can't even imagine wanting let alone using a skid that weighed 90 pounds, as it would with steel.



:confused: My 3/16" steel skid goes from frame rail to frame rail, and from directly beneath the crossmember, back to cover the CV joint on the toy D-shaft at the rear output flange.

It only weighs 40 lbs, *including* about 4' of welded on 1"X1" tubing, and re-inforcement around the T-case drain area.

Don't get me wrong, I would've loved to make the same thing out of aluminum (in a suitably appropriate thickness, obviously) or uhmw poly stuff, but yikes! the cost of that stuff soon made me turn tail and run.

I can live with (my) steel skid being 10 lbs or so heavier...


*edit-oops, :mad: darn standard measuring system! Metric is much easier to deal with :flipoff2:

:confused: My 3/16" steel skid goes from frame rail to frame rail, and from directly beneath the crossmember, back to cover the CV joint on the toy D-shaft at the rear output flange.

It only weighs 40 lbs, *including* about 4' of welded on 1"X1" tubing, and re-inforcement around the T-case drain area.

Don't get me wrong, I would've loved to make the same thing out of aluminum (in a suitably appropriate thickness, obviously) or uhmw poly stuff, but yikes! the cost of that stuff soon made me turn tail and run.

I can live with (my) steel skid being 10 lbs or so heavier...

My UHMW skid ended up being 30" x 21" x 1" thick, weighs approx 10lbs. Add another 5 pounds for the mounting rails.

My UHMW skid ended up being 30" x 21" x 1" thick, weighs approx 10lbs. Add another 5 pounds for the mounting rails.
How much did you pay for your UHMW? I have a buddy thats a chef and is looking into getting me an industrial cutting board.

How much did you pay for your UHMW? I have a buddy thats a chef and is looking into getting me an industrial cutting board.

Freebie! It used to be a cutting board.

My UHMW skid ended up being 30" x 21" x 1" thick, weighs approx 10lbs. Add another 5 pounds for the mounting rails.


:eek: whoa. ok 25 lbs less is pretty significant :D

Just got my motor mounts from Advanced, so I have another project for Sunday. These are even bigger and beefier then I thought they would be. Looks like they should hold up to the torque loads just fine.

https://eshop.advanceadapters.com/objects/catalog/product/image/img1692.jpg

-Wayne

How much did you pay for your UHMW? I have a buddy thats a chef and is looking into getting me an industrial cutting board.

Looking thru an industrial supply catalog,the cheapest grade of UHMW cost
$132 for a piece 24" x 48" x 1". With the cost of steel lately that might be
the most economical way to go. :shaking:

Well we've been hard at work, and keep forgetting to take pics. Got both engine side motor mounts done, and pretty close to done on the front axle bracketry. Wayne has also been working on radiator and fan mounting brackets. It seems like we're not getting anything done, but we're trying to get all the critical bracketry done before we start bending tube so that we wont have to go back and change anything later. Got a visit from Redbulljeep yesterday and got to talk shop quite a bit, and also picked up the Fox Air Shox that will be used.

First the Axle brackets. The passenger one still isnt done, it will also have the panhard mount integrated into it and some additional gusseting. The cardboard pieces are some initial brainstorming templates. We've already modified that design a bit, but it wll be something fairly similar. The plating on the back is coming off and will be replaced with something similar to the front.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne017.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne018.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne019.jpg

Here are the new motor mounts. They came out pretty nice, and should hold up to just about anything wayne can dish out, even after he pumps up the motor some more.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne020.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne021.jpg


Dallas

Yeah, doesn't look like much. The radiator/fan/intercooler mount is done now, and the rear axle brackets are to about the same stage as the front. The Toyota high steer arms are a problem as they put the draglink and tierod too high, they are going to hit the radiator package. I can either move the radiator package 3 inches further forward (longer hood line) or try bending my tierod and drag link to clear. Best would be some high steer arms that are not angled to clear leaf springs. (Probably does not exist).

Drats.

Yep, air shox should be a done deal. 14s for the front and 16s for the rear.

I'm going to bed now,

-Wayne

Some new pics for you all..

shaved the Toyota V6 rear housing:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/shaved%20rear.jpg

Radiator/Fan/Intercooler package: (Radiator actually floats in this package to avoid stressing it.)
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/rad_front.jpg

Showing the Taurus 3.8 liter 2 speed fan: (Best electric fan I know of, and only costs $25 at the junk yard.)
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/rad_rear.jpg

And space for the winch:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/rad_winch.jpg

rear bracket before grinding the welds:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/rearbracket.jpg

rear brackets just sitting on axle, not final positions:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/rear_brackets.jpg

That about it for the photos unless Dallas snapped some others.

We have a good plan of attack for the chassis, and the next shop day should see some tube bending, finally! I can hardly wait.

Oh yeah, and I got a killer deal on my link material. 1.5" x .250 DOM went from $152 a stick to $43. :grinpimp:

-Wayne

I'm a little curious as to why you did not triangulate the front top and bottom link mount more out toward the front of the axle tube? Not worried about it ripping off? What material are you planning on using for your upper control and panhard mount? .250 is totally overkill and useless weight for those links. Anywho looks interesting, keep the pics comin'.
erik

Also it was brought to my attention that the tubes on the toyota axles are severly thin and I'd be seriously worried about ripping that entire mount right off the axle tube.

I'm a little curious as to why you did not triangulate the front top and bottom link mount more out toward the front of the axle tube? Not worried about it ripping off? What material are you planning on using for your upper control and panhard mount? .250 is totally overkill and useless weight for those links. Anywho looks interesting, keep the pics comin'.
erik

Also it was brought to my attention that the tubes on the toyota axles are severly thin and I'd be seriously worried about ripping that entire mount right off the axle tube.


The link towers will be fully trussed. The front will tie into the diff and one side of this will also double as the panhard mount. I have been waiting for some small RE joints to arrive before fabbing up the rest of the tower. They just now arrived while typing this in. :D (They are so cute..) Anyhow, I want to get a bit more weld area at the base of the towers, and they both get some side support towards the center of the axle.

What would you recommend for the upper link and panhards? I was planning on using .250 for the upper links, and some .120 wall for the panhards. .120 wall just seems pretty light for the upper links. Lowers are going to be .250 wall with a 120 sleeve, or Rusty was suggesting getting some chromolly sleeves for rock protection on the lowers. At a little over $6 a foot I was thinking of buying 6 feet and splitting the chromo down the center and plating the bottoms of the lower links and maybe nerf areas. No full sleeves then, just the .250 wall with rock guards. I do like that idea, and actually costs only a bit more then sleeving those areas with full .120 tube.

Looks like another day I will not be in the shop. Dallas keeps calling me as he really wants to get going on the chassis. Maybe Wednesday... I hope.

-Wayne

Hey,
.120 is fine for the upper control arm mount. I remember Rusty telling me that he ripped off a spring perch off the axle tube and so I wonder how long your tower will hold on. My tubes are .250 thick so I didn't worry about it. I guess just get as much surface area as you can. Are you actually worried about bending the .250 DOM? Capping it with some chromolly will do little for the structural integrity. I'm not a fan of sleeving anything unless you drill and plug weld the sleeved tube, otherwise it will just act like a leaf spring. One neat idea I've seen is to cut an 1/8 inch slice in the top and bottom of the tube and slip some 1/8 inch plate that is the same diameter as your tube into the slices and then weld up the slice with the piece of 1/8 plate. Strengthens the hell out of the tube without adding an insane amount of weight. I'm going to try out some .120 wall chromolly with some 1/8 plate welded down the center and see how they hold up compaired to my .188 wall chromolly. It's not like you are gunna wear your links away so just putting some chromolly to cap the bottom of your aready heavy DOM seems pretty silly to me. Anyway where'd you get your paint? Looks kinda like my anodized aluminum. Glad to see some more inovation and thinking going into this project.
erik

[QUOTE=rotozuk]The link towers will be fully trussed. The front will tie into the diff and one side of this will also double as the panhard mount.

Your axle bracket that has the top link on it now has to do the job previously shared by two spring pads, with a lot less forgiving ability to absorb shock loads. Trussing the axle will add no significant strength in the direction of controlling axle wrap, I would suggest making that mount encircle the axle tube as much as possible. And maybe go as far as making some redundant plates a couple inches to either side of the tower with the same contact to the tube and trussing across them all. When my spring pad failed, it crushed the housing and tore a rip 7" wide. The housing as I remember is less than 3/16" thick. Part of my failure was also due to the weight of the vehicle. The welds on the front axle brackets look good.

Rusty

P.S. Both my upper links and panard are .120", 1.5" & 1.312" respectivly.

Thanks for the info.

Rusty, I'm going to be adding more weld area on the base of the towers. I'd really like to cover the top half of the tube on the towers. The driver's side (non-tower mount) will also get one more small tab on the bottom later when I pull the axles out and can have easy access to the bottoms.

Sounds like I'll go with the .120 wall HREW for the panhards. Top links I'm still leaning towards the DOM .250. I'm a bit worried about the torque loads they will get. And I only have HREW to play with. So you guys think .120 HREW x 1.5 would be FINE for the upper links? (dual t-cases and a possible 300 ft lbs of torque at the flywheel) you guys know how I tend to drive on dirt roads and san dunes, pedal to the floor.

The chromo link armor is to avoid denting the DOM. I figure it is the denting that brings about the death and bending of the links. As for weight differences, lets just say that that it keeps the weight in my wallet, and that is important. What are we talking about, less then 20 lbs total?

Really hope to sneak down to the shop tonight. We worked out a plan to incorporate the radiator lines into the front of the chassis. I'm eager to see it go together.

Blue paint is just Rustoleum hammer finish, good stuff. I accidentally picked up a can of Hammerite blue and it has a neat looking anodized look from the shiny metal, but Dallas tells me the hammerite holes will allow it to rust. I like the rustoleum product a lot more. Better finish, and easier to paint. I like the blue and silver theme so far.

-Wayne

Thanks for the info.

Sounds like I'll go with the .120 wall HREW for the panhards. Top links I'm still leaning towards the DOM .250. I'm a bit worried about the torque loads they will get. And I only have HREW to play with. So you guys think .120 HREW x 1.5 would be FINE for the upper links? (dual t-cases and a possible 300 ft lbs of torque at the flywheel) you guys know how I tend to drive on dirt roads and san dunes, pedal to the floor.

The chromo link armor is to avoid denting the DOM. I figure it is the denting that brings about the death and bending of the links. As for weight differences, lets just say that that it keeps the weight in my wallet, and that is important. What are we talking about, less then 20 lbs total?

Really hope to sneak down to the shop tonight. We worked out a plan to incorporate the radiator lines into the front of the chassis. I'm eager to see it go together.

Blue paint is just Rustoleum hammer finish, good stuff. I accidentally picked up a can of Hammerite blue and it has a neat looking anodized look from the shiny metal, but Dallas tells me the hammerite holes will allow it to rust. I like the rustoleum product a lot more. Better finish, and easier to paint. I like the blue and silver theme so far.

-Wayne

I wouldn't hesitate to run .120 wall links up top. They should only see tension and compression loads. As for the lowers, mine bowed pretty good after a while, never dented but they did get gouged in a few spots. I'd just sleeve the lowers and be done with it, that weigth down low is only going to help your CG.

I wouldn't hesitate to run .120 wall links up top. They should only see tension and compression loads. As for the lowers, mine bowed pretty good after a while, never dented but they did get gouged in a few spots. I'd just sleeve the lowers and be done with it, that weigth down low is only going to help your CG.

I 2nd that wayne. I run .120 wall DOM on my upper y thingy and no probs fO me:D

Chris, what where your lowers made of, and how long? Just wondering.

Just for fun, what does a foot of .120 vs .250 weigh?

-Wayne

um twice as much :grinpimp:

1.5" x .120 wall x 1' = 1.77 lb.

1.5" x .250 wall x 1' = 3.34 lb.

ditto on what AZ and bill said. my 1.5"x.240 wall lowers have a slight bow in them so i would go ahead and sleave them with some .120 wall 1.75" and be done with it. my wishbone is made out of .120 wall and gusseted and is plenty strong.

Chris, what where your lowers made of, and how long? Just wondering.

Just for fun, what does a foot of .120 vs .250 weigh?

-Wayne

Old lowers were 42" long and made from 1.50 x .250 wall. After they started bowing I welded a rib along the top. They (lowers) bowed side to side during one of my harder rolls, my uppers were still straight after two years so I was able to re-use those. New buggy has 1.50 x .250 lowers sleeved with 1.75 x .120 Dom, (33" long out back and 38" long up front) then a rib installed along the top edge. Uppers are 1.50 x .250 wall DOM because I had the material. If I come across some .120 material I may swap them out down the road but for now I am enjoying the wheeling too much to worry about an extra 20 lbs.

Hey, what's with the centered rear diff? That thing is just cryin' out to be offset. Get yourself one of those new long rear toyota axle shafts and have a custom short side made and you're done. Well nearly done anyway. I'm curious as to what the dimensions of the new chassi will be and what wheel base you r looking at? Any predrawn ideas on the chassi design or are you just gunna free hand it again. You didn't save the cattle guard from the old rig did you?
:flipoff2:

Sounds like .120 wall uppers will be fine then. Consider them done. Thanks for all of the good input.

We started bending up the chassis last night, but not much to see yet. We have no great plans drawn up, just some ideas in our heads, and a lot of conversation as we go into each new section. Kind of drawing things up as we go, and try to resolve as many issues as possible as we go. Even when I have a set of plans in front of me, I tend to venture off and do my own thing anyhow.

Wheel base is going to be 105" with a belly 22" off the ground. As pictured the chassis will be 3-1/2" taller when all is said and done. Chassis width is a fat 60" at the nerf. Driveline and engine are slightly off center to the drivers side to make room for the passenger seat with the exhuast location, and slightly better clearance on the front driveline. Engine is also angled slightly down in the front again giving a bit of clearance, a lower hood line, and easier collant burping of the head. Engine is also tilted a bit low on the drivers side. This raises the output of the t-case a bit.

Engine fit in the chassis is tight. Transmission will need to be removed to pull the engine up and out.

The old cattle guard is in the trash. Dallas will be responsible to make sure I do not make anything really homely looking. Sometimes this actually works.. sometimes we feed off each other and build some stupid shit. I think we have a good grasp of the goals, and always keep those in focus.

Keep up the feedback!

-Wayne

Well......hmmmm. 60 inches wide huh? With 22 inches of belly clearance and 105 inch wheelbase? Sounds like a recipie for an anchor, but maybe I'm just picturing it wrong. After staring at mine for so long I have a tendancy to do that. But seriously, why so wide? I remember running my samurai full width (56 inches) and the tubing and body didn't last very long on that thing. I noticed a huge difference when I narrowed it up to 46 inches at the nerfs. Having a buggy that wide seems to catch on everything when you start getting crazy in the rocks. But I guess you're a more conservative fellow than I. I'm trying to recall what width Rusty's rig is, seems like it's around 50 inches and I think Randy's buggy is around 52 inches wide. My personal experience has been that the more narrow it is the less you rub and catch on things, especially off camber driving. Might want to think about putting her on a diet. Just my .02

Well......hmmmm. 60 inches wide huh? With 22 inches of belly clearance and 105 inch wheelbase? Sounds like a recipie for an anchor, but maybe I'm just picturing it wrong. After staring at mine for so long I have a tendancy to do that. But seriously, why so wide? I remember running my samurai full width (56 inches) and the tubing and body didn't last very long on that thing. I noticed a huge difference when I narrowed it up to 46 inches at the nerfs. Having a buggy that wide seems to catch on everything when you start getting crazy in the rocks. But I guess you're a more conservative fellow than I. I'm trying to recall what width Rusty's rig is, seems like it's around 50 inches and I think Randy's buggy is around 52 inches wide. My personal experience has been that the more narrow it is the less you rub and catch on things, especially off camber driving. Might want to think about putting her on a diet. Just my .02


Mine is 56" at the nerfs and my seats barely fit. How'd you knock 10" out of that? got any pics of your old rig, I don't really remember how the tubing was run.

What seats are you running. Seems most of the suspension seats are 19-23 inches wide. I used some old hybrid sidekick seats that were 17-18 inches wide or so. I don't have any pics of it but there might be some floating around on the board. Basically the seats are all the way up against the center hump. The tube work for the chassi was right up against the other side of the seat. I know I can't fit a standard PRP suspension seat in there. I think Chris was able to fit his eagle talon seats in there though. Seems as though you can't help but have more room between the seats when you run toyota powertrain though, course that all depends on how high you want you seats.
I did however build a midengine two seater car for a guy this summer and he got the 22inch wide PRP seats. The chassi was 48 inches outside to outside, the seats were up against eachother, but he is running a Grand Vitara motor with a c4 and an Atlas so the powertrain was different.

I'm probably going to stay with the Eclipse/Talon seats that I had in the last rig. They don't kill my back. They measure 20 wide. The Samurai seats we have in the shop were about 19 inches without squeezing them. So there is 40 inches right there. Hmm.. Suddenly that does seem wide. The Samarai was I think 54" at the cowel.. but basically we took all of our measurements from the space limited passenger side of the rig. The exhaust is forcing the extra width.

If I raised the seating about 6 inches, over the driveline, I could be something like 50 inches wide (leaving shoulder room for humans) but then my CG is raised by having the driver and passenger so high. Maybe that is a better approach. I had planned to keep the seats on the sides of the driveline, not above it. As it is the cowl is already mounting pretty darn low, so veiw lines should not be much of an issue. I'll look into things, it is still easy to change things.

-Wayne

if you guys care, i used those summit seats with cover. theyre cheap, and comfortable for me, ymmv. my chassis is 48 at the shoulders, narrower everywhere else, seats fit fine and theres still about 2 inches between them. the stuff we run, the narrower the better, and being a foot narrower than 60 inches or so is a huge advantage when things get tight. cant wait to see the final product....

After a bit of discussion tonight the decision was made to knock a few inches off of the chassis. Should end up around 56-57". Basically the drivers side has a bit of wiggle room, but the passenger side is really tight because of the 4" exhaust and even bigger resonator running right along side the tranny. We looked at various options for moving the exhaust but it compromised many of our other plans, and had some fairly major interference issues in other places. Keep in mind this is not gonna be a comp rig, and is being built for comfort and storage space as well as thrashability and performance, so some compromises will have to be made to keep as many of the goals in mind as possible. This drivetrain also creates its own unique challenges that we are trying to work with. I'm thinkin after this weekend there may be some good stuff to show off. We'll see.

Dallas

What seats are you running. Seems most of the suspension seats are 19-23 inches wide. I used some old hybrid sidekick seats that were 17-18 inches wide or so. I don't have any pics of it but there might be some floating around on the board. Basically the seats are all the way up against the center hump. The tube work for the chassi was right up against the other side of the seat. I know I can't fit a standard PRP suspension seat in there. I think Chris was able to fit his eagle talon seats in there though. Seems as though you can't help but have more room between the seats when you run toyota powertrain though, course that all depends on how high you want you seats.
I did however build a midengine two seater car for a guy this summer and he got the 22inch wide PRP seats. The chassi was 48 inches outside to outside, the seats were up against eachother, but he is running a Grand Vitara motor with a c4 and an Atlas so the powertrain was different.

I am running Beards. It hit me on the way home that you can trade off chassis width for height by mounting your seats over the tranny tunnel or next to it. In my case my seats needed to be next to the tranny tunnel, I was going for a lower roofline and CG than my last buggy and that would explain the tighter fit.

Yeah we scratched our heads and played with ideas. Did find a couple of issues during the process and fixed them. Much happier now. Tacked together a few links to help see things a bit clearer since we have a couple of tight clearance areas.

Also been talking to Sky at Sky's Mfg. and it sounds like he is interested in making up some special steering arms for myself and others that do not need the added lift in the steering arms that is typically built in to clear leaf springs. The issue we are running into is this lift puts the tie rod and drag link into our radiator. Don't really like the other options to fix this.

-Wayne

Well pretty much everything is a trade off when trying to get the best of everything. Seems like there was someone building nearly flat highsteer arms for toyota but I can't for the life of me remember who. I guess you're opposed to running full hydro huh? So tell me, is your belly gunna be 56-57 inches wide, or does it taper down from the nerf bar width of 56-57 inches? When I built mine I didn't like the fact that my belly is 36 inches wide just because that's a lot more surface area with which to get hung up on than what my old samurai car used to have. Course I was also aiming for a pretty low CofG so that was the trade off. If your actual belly is 56-57 inches wide, then to me that is way to much surface area to be hanging just 22 inches off the ground. If you're looking for performance that is seriously gunna hinder it in places like JackHammer. Boulder crawling will most definitely not be your friend! ahahaha Low center of gravity is great, but if you're high centered on every boulder you try to get across, C of G isn't gunna get you anywhere but grounded. Well I guess I'll just let you get to it. When you're done, bring it on out this way for some testing. Nothing like seeing if theories prove or disprove out in the real world.
Whatever happened to that last samurai buggy you guys built? To bad you didn't get to really wheel that thing to see if your ideas are correct.

So tell me, is your belly gunna be 56-57 inches wide, or does it taper down from the nerf bar width of 56-57 inches? When I built mine I didn't like the fact that my belly is 36 inches wide just because that's a lot more surface area with which to get hung up on than what my old samurai car used to have. Course I was also aiming for a pretty low CofG so that was the trade off. If your actually belly is 56-57 inches wide, then to me that is way to much surface area to be hanging just 22 inches off the ground. .

I am pretty sure the 56" is the nerfs, then it tapers (at least that's what I pictured). My skid plate is only 30" wide.

OTT made some shorty arms. Not sure if they are still available.

How about just flipping the tie rod to the bottom of the arms? That should give you a few inches.

Still don't know what the nerf width will be, but planning on making one side wider then the other. The passenger side just can not thin down much more, but the driver's side can.

As for the bottom of the vehicle, it will be about 6-7 inches below the nerfs and much thinner. Sorry I just have not measured these up yet, so no exact measurements yet.

I'm considering some options that would have the widest section only along the passenger seat area as needed. The rest could be thinner.

Rockstomper sells a flat steering arm. I am not aware of any others on the market right now. Sky reports that he has had other requests from folks running coil suspensions.

-Wayne

Not to get too sidetracked, but I did finally get to do some more testing with the Bugzuki out at cougar buttes a couple months back. Got the fox shox much more dialed in and adding a leaf to the front springs made a world of difference. That rig climbs so much better than any rig I've driven and is so much more stable that I was really happy with the outcome. Unfortunately the owner has been pretty busy with work in the last couple months so the rig has been parked for a while. We were supposed to take it out again at new years, but there was a death in the family that changed those plans. Hopefully we'll get him out in his new toy soon.

Dallas

alright heres what I know you have all been waiting for. We got some serious work done today. Our friend Mark came by to help out a bit and we got the basic layout of the front cage section done, and I'm pretty sure we have the rear figured out too. We'll see if we get it started tomorrow. It really looks better in person, the pictures really dont do it justice. I'm really diggin the lines, to me it looks a lot like some of the finland formula offroad rigs which I like. We played around with the rockers too and shrank em down to about 58".

anyways, heres Mark modeling for us.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne022.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne023.jpg

To give an idea of height, Mark there is 6'2" and the buggy will come up another 2" from where its at right now.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne024.jpg

We also figured out what we are gonna do about our exhaust issues. It was such a simple change and was staring us right in the face the whole time. We just didn't see it.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne025.jpg

Dallas

It looks a lot better in person. Dallas and Mark did a great job today, very pleased with the progress. I'm going to bed now...

-Wayne

Dude, that has got to be the best idea ive seen on a rock rig. first off im a huge fan of stacks, secondly.. the sierra club will greatly appreciate your obviose efferts to protect the wild life from noxious gasses :smokin: :laughing:

You need one of those flapper tips to go on the end of the pipe. :grinpimp:

Wayne,
It looks like you have all the input your need on this subject but I too run .120 wall (thought 1.75) for my uppers and panhard.

Interesting design. Nice and low. :smokin:

I'm happy with how it is going together. Slower progress today, just some cross tubes for the belly, and started work on the brackets for the front links on the chassis, then mounted and modified the stock Suzuki pedals to work in the chassis. Would have loved to put in some after market pedals, but this saves a bunch of money, I know they work well with this hardware and they are easy to mount. Besides, I get to keep the vacuum boosted brakes.

Kind of a lazy day in the shop, but enjoyable.

-Wayne

Yeah, not much goin on today. Felt like we were workin on things most of the day, but when we started sitting around talking and not moving around the shop I realized we hadn't gotten much of anything done. Got a couple more pics, without the cowl.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne026.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne027.jpg

Dallas

Got a couple more pics for ya yesterday. Found some really nice seats, with these in there we should be able to narrow up the chassis even more, to about 55" :D

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne028.jpg

and a good side shot

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne029.jpg

Dallas

Nerple- You figure something out from these photos yet? It's not like you to be so quiet.

Anyone?

-Wayne

:barf:

:barf:

Thanks Rusty.

You need one of those flapper tips to go on the end of the pipe. :grinpimp:



then he can change his username to tinkerbelle. :D

Well, just so you everyone doesn't think we are totally daff, the exhaust was a joke, and the chassis is not 58 inches wide, and we are not going to use the baby beard seats either. You might notice that the chassis is actually thinner then the Samurai cowl that is placed on it, and that cowl is about 53" wide, the chassis is 52" wide outside to outside. The exhaust will be routed under the passenger floor.

I had hoped to work on the vehicle this week, but my daily driver has developed an expensive problem that needs my attention instead. :( (again)

-Wayne

looks good wayne :D

looks good wayne :D


Thanks, I'm guessing this is Danny? If so, then it would look a lot better with that mini york compressor. :)

-Wayne

I'm gonna guess from the avatar that Krawler is you're other best friend. You know, the one that talks funny :flipoff2:

Dallas

You know, the one that talks funny :flipoff2:

:mad2: Not good.

Ahh too funny.

Well, I think I need to goo Warsh a VEEhIck-eL now...

Hope to sneak down to the shop Thursday and Friday.

-Wayne

Good guess dallas it's jaime and :flipoff2:

When you have to start out by telling people something looks better in person, you should know you fawked up! The lines appear as if they were just thrown together rather than thought out. Having the nerf bar line extend out past the back of the seats with the b pillar as far forward as you have it just looks like it was an afterthought on the B pillars. I don't really understand the thinking on the A pillar hoops either. Should have left it one solid hoop like you did the B pillar and then bent up a piece of tube for the cowl. It would have been much stronger this way. I guess you're right, your products are the shiat!
:barf:

In some respects you're right. We didn't start out with a plan for this one, simply a list of goals and a few ideas. As for your thoughts on the looks, eh if you dont like it, thats fine, though its FAR from finished. Not sure what you mean about the nerfs, the seats fit all the way against the rear of the nerf hoop, and the angle and placement of the B pillar was very deliberate. Its matched to the angle of the seat and runs right along the side of it. Keeps it out of your way when you're sitting, but offers some good side impact protection. In case you didn't catch it, the pics with the BABY Mastercrafts was a joke. They just happened to be sitting around the shop from another project. As for the A pillar, yeah we coulda bent it up like the B, but we started at the bottom and worked up, thats just how it happened, and I hardly think strength will be an issue with the way they tie together and all the other support that will go in. I appreciate your input, but really unless you have some suggestions on something in particular, save it until we have more than 5 tubes bent, its still a little early to start trash talking. We may just change your mind yet :flipoff2:

Dallas

Oh and for the record, I take no responsibility for the things that Wayne chooses to fawk up on his own rig. I'll just take credit for the good parts :flipoff2:

Dallas

Ahh yeah. Thanks for the comments,

The reason the nerf tube extends back past the B-pillar is becuase the floor level is below the nerf line. To make room for the seat either the nerf line does not cross in the back, or it has to extend further back to make room for the seat. We decided to cross the nerf as we plan to connect many elements to the nerf line.

I had planned to build the chassis in a different manner. After much conversation it was decided this would be the better plan, and I like how it is going together.

You are correct on the A-pillar, if I was to do it again, it would be one main hoop with a cross tube added in. It may not look like it, but that wind screen area does have some complex bends in it.

For the record, I am very happy with this project, just wish it was going together faster. It has been hard to get over to the shop to put in the time. Should be there again tonight, and the rest of the weekend.

Also please keep in mind that this is my first buggy, and first full chassis. While I have looked at other vehicles for design elements, we are not copying anyone elses work. Often times my plans backfire and I end up with wasted time. (Like the link bracket I made last Sunday.)

Build it the way you want to. After all, if you don't enjoy the process, then you are probably doing things wrong.

-Wayne

How can it be too early to start the dislikes, when some of the main lines of the chassi have already been made out?! If you are already telling yourself you would have done some things different, why not take off, and redo while you still very much can? I understand that things don't come out perfectly when it's your first time building a chassi, but you still know what looks good and what doesn't. Should have taken the Nerple's advice and drawn it out before you started throwing tube at the power/drivetrain. Just my .02, and last I heard it was ok to give on this board.
:flipoff2:

This thing is about as slow as my build up :flipoff2:

Bill - When you going to stop by the shop? We are just around the corner from you. Come on down and I'll see about putting you to work.


How can it be too early to start the dislikes, when some of the main lines of the chassi have already been made out?! If you are already telling yourself you would have done some things different, why not take off, and redo while you still very much can? I understand that things don't come out perfectly when it's your first time building a chassi, but you still know what looks good and what doesn't. Should have taken the Nerple's advice and drawn it out before you started throwing tube at the power/drivetrain. Just my .02, and last I heard it was ok to give on this board.
:flipoff2:


OK, who am I talking to anyhow? Do I know you?

I do not feel that I have any mistakes in this build. Mistakes have been made, and they have been replaced or modified as needed. I do not consider the A-pillar a mistake, I simply would build it differently next time around. No big deal. Maybe I'm just doing things a bit differently then you are used to.

As for Nerple, he has given me some very good advise, and I have tried to follow as much of it as I can. Yes, I did not build from chromo and I know there are things he may not like, but this is not a single seat comp rig pretending to be a recreational vehicle. This will be a fully registered vehicle, not green stickered cop bait.

As for my attempts to draw it out, they sucked. That just is not one of my strengths, and I would have missed all kinds of space limitations. Even fully drawn out CAD rigs have had surprises when actually getting built. Go figure. I'm amazed at the folks that can do that, but I'm just not one of them.

I think Rusty's (geargoyle) new rig is about the most amazing looking pile of tube around, and guess what, he only has a basic pencil sketch and a few web photos of things he liked. His skills are just amazing! Everytime I visit his project we discuss options for building the next few items. That is DAMN fun to me, and that is what I'm doing. Rusty has been planning that rig in his head for years, and he has some amazing visualization skills backed by amazing fab skills that you all would kill to have, let alone the space and tools to build with.

To sum this up, I see you bitching, but I do not understand what you are bitching about. OK, you don't like the A-pillar. Good input. But the joint is not unsafe, or even visible on the finished rig. I'm not going to replace it as I only have about 2 months to get this sucker up and running so I can lead some trails in Moab. (I hope!)

-Wayne

I only have about 2 months to get this sucker up and running so I can lead some trails in Moab. (I hope!)

-Wayne

56 Days 'til Moab, but who's counting? I AM!!! :bounce2: :bounce2: :bounce2:

Picked up my brand-spankin'-new trailer today! No more flat-towing for me! :grinpimp:

Bill - When you going to stop by the shop? We are just around the corner from you. Come on down and I'll see about putting you to work.
-Wayne


I want to, But I doubt I'll be of any good to you. I'm always doped up on pain killers. The good news is I should be off pills soon.... I hope :(

But I do want to stop by just to shoot the wind and see what's up. You need to tell me when you'll be there next time k?

We'll be in the shop all weekend Bill. Wayne came down today and we got some work done tonight. He's stayin down here for the next couple nights so we should get some work done this weekend. I think there will be a run up to Petroworks tomorrow morning, but otherwise we should be there all day and most of the nights. If you want just gimmie a call.

Dallas

What about next week some time. I'm working nights for the next couple of days.

<<<<<look at the time :eek: :(

This thing is about as slow as my build up :flipoff2:


NO, nothing is THAT slow :shaking:

NO, nothing is THAT slow :shaking:


Come awn! :flipoff2:

please return my speed limit sign please

Ron's got himself a trailer now. The best way to go.

Wayne, it looks like the idea of coils took there toll now. How do you plan on keeping your truck street registered?

Very carefully :D

Dallas

Back home after a few days of working on the project. Very pleased with the progress. The main links are all in, just need the panhards now. Damn that was a lot of bracket fabbing this weekend. Finally got smart and mocked up all of the tabs in card board and then traced them onto a plate of 3/16 and took it over to Petro for some quick plasma cutting. That made life a lot easier. She looks a lot better with the links in place, too bad I only have 3 links tacked together so far...

Hope to get down to the shop several times this week to keep the progress going.

-Wayne

borrowed from another thread. :p

I will not be rigless for much longer. :flipoff2:

-Wayne

Pics!? let's see some proof! :p :flipoff2:

I re-read your old build up. How did you like that slosh seal that you used? Are you going to use it again? I'm contemplating a custom cell because of space requirements (then again I may just "make" a little more room).

borrowed from another thread. :p



Pics!? let's see some proof! :p :flipoff2:

I re-read your old build up. How did you like that slosh seal that you used? Are you going to use it again? I'm contemplating a custom cell because of space requirements (then again I may just "make" a little more room).


Dave, I have already done one of those 2+ year build ups.. Thats enough for me. (I hope!!) Looking forward to seeing yours hit some trails too!

The slosh seal was great! Tusker on the board here now has the tank and just got his rig back up an running with it installed. I think he said it allowed him to move his rear axle backward 4 inches..?

Here is a link to one source for some slosh seal. I think they also sell some other brands. Try to get the one that is for auto gas. (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/bunan.php)

I'd use the stuff again, worked great as far as I can tell. Then again I made sure the tank had no leaks before using it.

----------

As for progress, added a couple of tubes to the chassis tub and built up the links using the 1.5" x .250 DOM. After reading some other threads I decided to pass on the 1.75 x .120 sleeve material. We will see how well it holds up. I suspect they will be good far at least a year of abuse. Hope to get up there again tonight, but may not be able to.

-Wayne

Heres a couple quick pics of Waynes progress from this last weekend. Got all the links built, suspension link mounts done except for some cleanup and built the new tranny mount. Wayne has been workin hard on his rig lately, he might just make his goal of wheelin at EJS if he keeps it up.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne030.jpg


http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne031.jpg


http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne032.jpg

Dallas

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne032.jpg

This is interesting. Nice idea.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne032.jpg

This is interesting. Nice idea.


I recycled the plate from the last build up. Here is what it used to look like:
http://rz-products.com/WAYNE/UPDATES/030317/waynes1%20761.jpg


Currently chasing down some steering parts. The Scout II steering box I used last time just will not fit this chassis. So I have my eye on a Chevy truck steering box. they are available in either inside the frame or outside the frame mounting and have a a rear facing pitman and a very short sector shaft.. Very short. I think this will work well. I'm staying with the saginaw steering boxes as they really have a good amount of grunt, and should allow me to avoid the need of ram assist. As for weight, they are probably about the same as a full hydro system, and should be lighter then a ram assist. (Wild guesses mind you.)

-Wayne

How about some new pics?

Engine hoist is holding the Chevy steering box in about the final location.
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/2004%20104.jpg

Still waiting for my new mid-steer arms for some of the final layout of the front end. The radiator will sit just a hair over the tierod & drag links. It also sets the steering box height.
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/2004%20108.jpg

Fitting the air shocks was a bit of a challenge, but I think I will be OK with this layout. I wanted to keep them out as far as possible, and as straight as possible. As you can see you really can not get the bottom of the shock out any further.
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/2004%20109.jpg

The top of the shock is very close to the engine though. I might need to make some more clearance here. But I think it will be OK.
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/2004%20110.jpg

-Wayne

Passenger side is about the same, but with the now finished link tower and panhard in the way also. I think the shock body will clear the tower before the angle gets so steep as to make contact with the tower.

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/2004%20111.jpg

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/2004%20113.jpg

A little closer look at the link tower.

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/2004%20114.jpg

Sorry about the crappy pictures, these are from my poor ol' camera.

P.S. - Did I mention my lower back is giving me lots of extra fun? Makes working of certain things a bit more fun.. Like lifting that steering box up off the floor. :eek: working on the vehicle seems to help with the pain.. Go figure.

-Wayne

So how ya gunna attach that big ol' boat anchor (AKA P.S. Box). Screw it bud, go full hydro! Ya gunna add balast to the other side to compensate? It appears as though the driver's side might be a bit heavy!
:D

So how ya gunna attach that big ol' boat anchor (AKA P.S. Box). Screw it bud, go full hydro! Ya gunna add balast to the other side to compensate? It appears as though the driver's side might be a bit heavy!
:D

I was thinking I could duct tape the engine hoist to the A pillar. :D We have a plan of attack on that, just waitong for the stering arms so I can confirm tube clearances. I also have the winch that sits right there next to the steering box, so it will have some strength up there..

The boat anchor (Saginaw) probably weighs about the same as a full hydro set up weighs. (Hmm, the last Saginaw was known as the battleship...) Yes, I'm concerned about all of the weight on the drivers side. The steering box weight doesn't scare me, but the addition of the fuel tank on the driver's side does. I guess all of the tools, battery, rear winch and spares will have to be on the passenger side as much as possible. Rusty did a little quick math when he visited and thought the space I have for the fuel tank would net something like 12 gallons.. (I think) So I'll probably have an aux tank further back in the chassis to bring me up to the 20 gallons I would like to carry.

-Wayne

P.S. Box). Ya gunna add balast to the other side to compensate? It appears as though the driver's side might be a bit heavy!
:D

It's not to late to make it right hand drive. :idea:

Rusty

ps

































GIT UR DUN!

Right hand drive huh....I hear all the cool cats are doin' it!
:flipoff2:

You're just jealous geargoyle, or whatever your REAL name is!
:flipoff2:

That looks really good. Looks like you are having fun. Now for my witty question.....how ya gonna get it off the frame jig?

CRAP! I didn't even think about that. i'm thinkin we'll just borrow the neighbors forklift again :D

Dallas

Get it off? Well, I could just use the engine hoist and pick up one corner at a time and slap a wheel on it, but will probably get it all tacked together and then pull it all apart for final welds and paint. Then set it on jack stands for final assembly. Not worried either way.

As for the right habd drive, we did actually consider that early on in the build. I didn't want to have to learn how to drive from the wrong side of the vehicle. I'm a bad enough driver as it is.

-Wayne

Why don't you just go full hydro? At least then you can place the components centrally and the steering will be a lot nicer! I know you can get balast that will clamp onto your tubes on the passenger side. Stockcarproducts.com! Since you aren't concerned about total weight you might as well get it somewhat level side to side no? I thought you were gunna start dating a really fat chick. That would help compensate!
:flipoff2:

copy that on the full hydro, one of the best mods you can do t o a buggy

I'm just not a huge fan of full hydro. Besides I'm a cheap bastard. Honestly I have been putting some thought on clutching the power steering pump so i can turn off the assist when running around in 2wd on dirt roads. I had a blast sliding the last rig around before I hooked up the steering pump. Got great steering feedback that way.

The steering box does not weigh all that much, I'm far more concerned with the fuel tank loading, but I have an idea that might work for that.

Still waiting for those steering arms. Hopefully they come in for tomorrows work night. Either that or I need to start working in another area of the chassis.

-Wayne

Pretty much figured out the front clip and have it tacked together with the steering box, winch, intercooler, radiator and fan mounted in. Even have the in frame coolant lines tacked in. Took about 8 attempts to get that steering box just where I wanted it. A slight shift in any direction and it all doesn't fit.. Very tight clearances in areas, usually less then 1/8" between items.

Dallas took a few pics so maybe he will post them up.

Just need to get my steering parts worked out and then I can make the frame side panhard mount and some trussing, then the front is pretty much done.

-Wayne

Lets see some pics of the fat chick you're gunna have for passenger side balast!
:flipoff2:

Lets see some pics of the fat chick you're gunna have for passenger side balast!
:flipoff2:

We prefer to think of you as "pleasently plump" :flipoff2:

We prefer to think of you as "pleasently plump" :flipoff2:


Haha.. Nerple is about 9 feet tall and weighs 64 lbs. Toothpick might be more accurate.

Don't think I will be needing any ballast for the passenger side though.. Well, I guess maybe since I am a bit on the plump side of things.

Front clip of the buggy is mostly finished, just some trussing and mounts for the little junk.. etc.

-Wayne

Dang it, I was plannin on posting some pics, but left the camera at the shop. I'll try to get some up tonight. Wayne really got some work done while I was in AZ this weekend. I was pretty impressed when I came in and found everything mounted. Tonight I'm gonna start bending up the rear end of the rig so the shape should really start coming together.

Dallas

Haha.. Nerple is about 9 feet tall and weighs 64 lbs. Toothpick might be more accurate.

-Wayne


I think I could I might just take offense to that statement!
:crybaby2:

But considering all the fat bastards on this planet I probably won't!
:flipoff2:

I think I could I might just take offense to that statement!
:crybaby2:

But considering all the fat bastards on this planet I probably won't!
:flipoff2:


I'm sorry, are you 10 feet tall? All I know is that not many people are taller then me and every time I see you I think "Damn, he's tall." How many times a day do you get asked if you play basket ball? I like to answer that question with another question. "Do you race horses?"

Dallas, post those pics. :grinpimp:

-Wayne

My personal fav. is when asked how tall you are, ask them how much they weigh! hahahaha I haven't actually said this yet, but I've been more than tempted a time or three! hahahaha Better post up some pics cause this thread is getting a wee bit off topic!
:D

BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH Moab, BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH won't BLAH BLAH. BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH Backdoor BLAH!




















pics please




BLAH

BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH Moab, BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH won't BLAH BLAH. BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH Backdoor BLAH!




pis please

BLAH

whats wrong rusty...gettin to that age where you need help with that bodily function? :flipoff2:

I have no idea what you are talking about Chris, but have you seen where your Bronco is ?

I have no idea what you are talking about Chris, but have you seen where your Bronco is ?


Better tell Tim that he lost another of his 5 bolters, Chris now, has a Toyota. :p

Dallas forgot to bring home his UBS cable, so no pics today. I'm off to fight the rain traffic for another night of buggy slavery.

-Wayne

um..........

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/Smileys/default/threadworthless.gif

[QUOTE=Geargoyle]BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH won't do BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH Moab, BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH won't do BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH Backdoor BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH won't do BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH cougar buttes BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH. !

you should really save such comments for after you do them! Fawker!
:flipoff2:

Better tell Tim that he lost another of his 5 bolters, Chris now, has a Toyota. :p

Dallas forgot to bring home his UBS cable, so no pics today. I'm off to fight the rain traffic for another night of buggy slavery.

-Wayne
I haven't converted (yet). just bought myself a dd that i plan on makin able to do some decent trails while I build the broncho.

OK OK I know I'm a little slow. Left the shop last night with a camera full of pictures, and got about 3/4 of the way home before realizing the USB cable was at the shop. DOH! So here you go.

Wayne managed to pretty much solve his packaging nightmare up front and everything is now at least tacked in place. There will still be quite a bit of reinforcement going in, and a bit of tube to protect the winch and steering box, but you get the idea.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne033.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne034.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne035.jpg

Last night we finally got started on the back end of the rig. I really like the way its starting to come together, and I'm pretty sure it wont quite look like any other rig I've seen. Not sure its gonna really look like a samurai, but whatever.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne036.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne037.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne038.jpg

I just got home, and Wayne was still workin when I left, so maybe there will be something new to see tomorrow.

Dallas

WTF all you guys are cryin for pics and not a single comment? Cmon I was all prepped for some flaming :flipoff2:

Dallas

Nice

Where did you get the adapter to attach the steering box to the end of the winch?? Doesnt it interfere with the engage/disengage lever??





You DID ask for comments!!

Nick

I would point out it's the first I have seen the steering box clocked for clearance , and yet it's such a "Duh, easy" thing. I mean, the wheel is hitting the box, you moved the box over a bit. Duh :laughing: Re-clocking the pitman straight is easy.

I would guess the hard part is that the draglink is now that much shorter. Maybe it needs to have the end of the pitman turned down 90 degrees, so the joint would have unlimited movement up and down. Or z-link it with a bias so it would allow pass. side droop more.

Actually all the studying for my Trig class has already paid off. We took some measurements and I ran some calcs and at full droop the TRE will need 27* of movement. Wayne made a call to the guy he's ordering steering parts from and according to him the rod end we're gettin has 30 up and 30 down, 60 degrees total, so we should be fine.

Dallas

WTF all you guys are cryin for pics and not a single comment? Cmon I was all prepped for some flaming :flipoff2:

Dallas

Flaming you want, flaming you get!

Just a little curious as to why the down tubes at the rear don't have the pass thru effect on there path to the bottom tube. It looks to close to add them without removing the 2 bars you have tacked in place. May I suggest doing that and replacing the center 2 with one at an extreme angle with possibly a bend at the end where they merge with the down tubes. The bend would be flat so it would be invisible when viewed from the top. Right now your building a parallelagram that is in need of triangulation. My rule is "no tubes are vertical", remember an imagination is a terible thing to waste. :zzz:

There are two types of fabricators, those with and those without















A FULL HYDRAULIC TUBE BENDER :p

Rusty

Good catch. The lower tubes were just tacked in to hold the main tubes in place.

For those who may be wondering about the strange roof line, this is a 3 seater.

-Wayne

The only I am curious about so far is the rear suspension. I can't figure how there will be equal flex. My understanding about links is still novice even though all I've read all the link threads on this site. I was thinking of something similar for my front.

Is there any place you cats got the idea from... I'd like to check it out further.

When you say equal flex do you mean between front and rear, or side to side? If you mean front to rear, well all 6 links are exactly the same. The front and rear are exactly the same suspension, but the rear will have a little more travel because of the longer shocks. Side to side is limited only by the shocks really, the 2 lowers locate the axle in relation to the chassis, the upper controls wrap and the panhard controls side to side movement.

Dallas

When you say equal flex do you mean between front and rear, or side to side? If you mean front to rear, well all 6 links are exactly the same. The front and rear are exactly the same suspension, but the rear will have a little more travel because of the longer shocks. Side to side is limited only by the shocks really, the 2 lowers locate the axle in relation to the chassis, the upper controls wrap and the panhard controls side to side movement.

Dallas

I understand what you are saying; I should have elaborated... I meant side to side. Like I said, I am a novice in this dept. I just kept envisioning some sort of bind on the side with the upper set the way it is. It'll be interesting to see how exactly it works. I'm not knocking it by any means... I'm really just trying to understand. :grinpimp:

OK OK I know I'm a little slow. Left the shop last night with a camera full of pictures, and got about 3/4 of the way home before realizing the USB cable was at the shop. DOH! So here you go.

Wayne managed to pretty much solve his packaging nightmare up front and everything is now at least tacked in place. There will still be quite a bit of reinforcement going in, and a bit of tube to protect the winch and steering box, but you get the idea.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne033.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne034.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne035.jpg

Last night we finally got started on the back end of the rig. I really like the way its starting to come together, and I'm pretty sure it wont quite look like any other rig I've seen. Not sure its gonna really look like a samurai, but whatever.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne036.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne037.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne038.jpg

I just got home, and Wayne was still workin when I left, so maybe there will be something new to see tomorrow.

Dallas




lookin good! now just WORK FASTER!!!! :flipoff2:

Dude you have no idea. Today I was gettin some serious shit done. Started out workin on another project this morning, then after lunch I changed the radio over to classical and really got movin. Got almost every tube in the chassis fully welded and added almost all the structural tubing in the back half. Also got rear shocks mounted and messed around with some cosmetics up front. Wayne spent time makin a bunch of brackets, painting things that wont be accessible soon, and reassembling the front end package. If we could work this fast every day it'd be ready to test well before EJS, somehow I dont think that will happen though. I'm thinkin I'll stick with the Classical radio station anyways, really put me in a good productive mood today.

Dallas

Some more pics for you guys.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne039.jpg

The passenger front link, panhard, and shock mount
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne040.jpg

Drivers side.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne041.jpg

It all fits now.....barely.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne042.jpg

For all you punks that were whining about how we did the windshield, can you really say this is going to be the point of failure? :flipoff2:
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne043.jpg

More tube out back, and shocks positioned.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne044.jpg

Narrowed sami grille, I think we are going to be building the stretched narrowed fiberglass hoods to fit this dimension. Its about 8" narrower than stock.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne045.jpg

Dallas

Man...for all the bitchin and moanin some guys were doin about how "ugly" that chassis was I think it looks pretty slick now. Especially since it is going to be a 3 seater.

[QUOTE=StinkBug]Some more pics for you guys.











More tube out back, and shocks positioned.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne044.jpg

It's getting there, and I'm sure your going to be adding more triangulation for the rear section, are you planning on a bar across the door opening or from the shock mount to the main hoop? I wouldn't want to see it fold up like a girls bike being jumped off the roof. ;)

Rusty

There will definitely be a door bar and at least one diagonal across it, but we are leaving it out right now so we dont have to fight it to install the seats and other stuff. There will be a fair amount of gusseting goin into the back half still, but I'm not sure about a tube from shock to B, it would totally kill the lines of the rig, and go right through the entry area of the back. I'm open to suggestions on that one though. If anyone wants to scribble on that pic with ideas I'm definitely listening.

Dallas

I really wanted to keep that rear shock down below the body line but it just could not be done with the 16" shocks at a respectable angle. Oh well.

Rusty, you really think the tube will be bending from the rear shock loads? I'm hoping that the trussing will be enough to handle that. There will be some more bracing in the form of cross members in the rear, but was planning to keep that area between B and C pillars open for easy rear passenger access. While on the subject of triangulation. Dallas is adding some tube to the roof (basically a large "X") and there will be a bar or 2 in the B hoop behind the seats. That is about it.

Hopefully the rest of my steering parts arrive this week as I would like to check that off the list. They all better clear that front clip.. I built it DAMN close to EVERYTHING.

Had a minor set back in the area of seats. I had planned to use my old Eclipse seats, but they just don't fit well. Not to mentoin they weigh a ton and has no easy method to add a 4 point harness. Anyone know of a good deal on a pair of front seats that are rather slim and comfortable? :) What the heck, while asking, looking for a good deal on seat belts and a Toyota driveshaft with the pillowblock.

Lets see what else... Tacked in the good ol' Samurai head lights and mounted the slave cylinder while Dallas worked on another rig, he then started on the roof triangulation. Oh yeah, lowered the steering shaft a bit. Thats about it for today. So short of running the lines the brakes and clutch are pretty much there now. I'll figure out an E-brake after Moab.. A lot of stuff happens after Moab. (Paint, hood, interior, fun stuff, OBA, etc.)

-Wayne

:barf: :barf: :barf:






































Just cause it's a tube chassi doesn't make it cool! :shaking:

:barf: :barf: :barf:


Just cause it's a tube chassi doesn't make it cool! :shaking:






What the fawks you're problem? :shaking: You may leave now bitch :rolleyes: :shaking:

If you dont like it, thats fine, not like you're payin for it or anything. Oh and since its so horrible, how about postin up some pics of what you're driving. All I've ever seen you post is a bunch of trash talking, how about backin it up :flipoff2:

Dallas

Looks like you're makin' some headway there Wayne. It's all the little details that seems to slow the buildup, at least that's been my experience.

Like I told you before you started building this project, who cares what anyone else thinks, so long as you like it.

I really do like it. Rubiconwheeler sure doesn't seem to like it though, not sure why this newbie likes posting in my thread so much, but to each their own.

-Wayne

:barf: :barf: :barf:
Just cause it's a tube chassi doesn't make it cool! :shaking:

Little Troll. This cracked me up


rubiconwheeler
Registered User

Member #33080
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 11 Anyone know TheNerple?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've been trying to figure out how to get a hold of him, but he is apparantly never on here anymore. Too busy building stuff for himself and others? Anyone got a number. Also, anyone know of any other cool buggy builders in the So. Cal. area? Thanks.

Considering he is trashing a "cool buggy builder" :shaking:

I'm about to start building a tubed out trail rig, so yours is cool and is giving me ideas, Wayne. Thanks, Robert

Rusty, you really think the tube will be bending from the rear shock loads? I'm hoping that the trussing will be enough to handle that. There will be some more bracing in the form of cross members in the rear, but was planning to keep that area between B and C pillars open for easy rear passenger access. While on the subject of triangulation. Dallas is adding some tube to the roof (basically a large "X") and there will be a bar or 2 in the B hoop behind the seats. That is about it.

-Wayne

Wayne, I have no concern about the shock mount, but the whole rear section as a whole. In the picture it has a hinge at the bottom of the frame that is only arrested by the bending of the B pillar and the bending of the roof cage at the B pillar. If you add a door bar then I think you'll be OK.

Rusty

I definitely see what you are talking about Rusty, and a door bar is already planned. We almost cut and notched a couple tubes the other day, but didn't wanna have to work around them, so they will be going in a little later in the build.

Dallas

Wayne, I have no concern about the shock mount, but the whole rear section as a whole. In the picture it has a hinge at the bottom of the frame that is only arrested by the bending of the B pillar and the bending of the roof cage at the B pillar. If you add a door bar then I think you'll be OK.

Rusty

Ahh, now I understand what you are getting at. I automatically see the rig with the door bars in, so I thought you were saying that the tube the shock mount is on was going to bend upward or inward. I'm a little slow I guess.

Got the steering parts in today. Just need a little tweaking and they will be all good. Highly recommend Parts Mike for the steering rod ends if you need them. Good price and fast service.

-Wayne

Wayne, are you worried about your gear box being exposed like it is? Knowing me that would be the first place a rock would just jump out and hit me :shaking:

Wayne, are you worried about your gear box being exposed like it is? Knowing me that would be the first place a rock would just jump out and hit me :shaking:


The transmission? It will be well protected.

Steering gear box? Yes, it has already hit many things, mostly the walls in the shop. It will get a little ring of 1.25" tube around the front of it. I have the tube bent up, but not placed yet. The winch motor also gets a little protection. That front clip is basically even with the front of the tires, but the steering box does hang out a bit beyond, so extra protection for it.

-Wayne

Yea, I was talking about the steering gear box. I'm pretty hard on the corners of my zuk and I would be too afraid to run it out there. I wish ya the best of luck though! :grinpimp:

Keep in mind the corners of a zuk hang out a lot farther and wider than this rig. Like wayne said the front edge of the tire will be flush with the front bumper, meaning you could drive it up against a wall without hitting it. Should be a lot more protected than it used to be. Got a visit from Dustin Webster tonight and got some good insight on the cage design. With how much that guy rolls when he makes a cage suggestion I take it pretty seriously, so there may be a couple additional tubes that weren't in the original plan. We'll see.

Dallas

Keep in mind the corners of a zuk hang out a lot farther and wider than this rig. Like wayne said the front edge of the tire will be flush with the front bumper, meaning you could drive it up against a wall without hitting it. Should be a lot more protected than it used to be. Got a visit from Dustin Webster tonight and got some good insight on the cage design. With how much that guy rolls when he makes a cage suggestion I take it pretty seriously, so there may be a couple additional tubes that weren't in the original plan. We'll see.

Dallas


Yep, pretty much backed up what Rusty (geargoyle) was saying.

After everyone left last night I kept working for a while and thought I'd take off a bit early to take care of some things at home. Shop clock has a dead battery so I had no real idea what time it was until I got in my car, 2:45 am and still a 1 hour drive home.. Yikes.

-Wayne

I was wonderin WTF you were doin when you called at 2am askin where the soldering iron was. It was after midnight when Dustin and I left.

Dallas

Hey, I needed to fix my trimmer. :)

I had no idea of the hour. So much was going on in the shop... I just needed to get something done before I could leave. Panhard mount is coming along. Need to buy some more colled rolled to finish it off though.

Boss restated my hours to me this morning.. Seems he doesn't like the late morning starts, LONG lunch hours chasing down parts, or the leaving early. Go figure. Good thing he didn't clue into the hours of internet searching, or other distractions.

I must be getting sick of makinglittle tabs and things since I ordered up $50 of them from AA last night.

-Wayne

Wayne,and Dallas the rig is really starting to look good.
but.


for a three seater, how big is the third person :eek:
also have you cycled the rear suspension. to me it looks
like unless you have off set wheels and wheel spacers
the tire is going to hit the shock and or frame. :)



looken real nice :D

MARK

Wayne,and Dallas the rig is really starting to look good.
but.


for a three seater, how big is the third person :eek:
also have you cycled the rear suspension. to me it looks
like unless you have off set wheels and wheel spacers
the tire is going to hit the shock and or frame. :)



looken real nice :D

MARK


Good eye. It might well hit the shock, time will tell. I can not flex the suspension at all while it is on the chassis stand. But that axle gets another several inches wider when the BIG drum brakes are added. That is a '99 4 Runner rear axle, it is pretty wide. We calculated about 30 degrees on the front end, and the rear should be capable of a bit more travel with the longer shocks. There just wasn't many other options to put these shocks where they will still work well. They do not work well inboard, and they do not work well at heavy angles. We tried to hit a compromise of just wide enough... I think we are OK, but sometimes you just have to flex the suspension to find out.

Same goes for the front. I think it is OK, but the driver's side shock is VERY close to the throttle body when at drop on that side.

Even if I have to limit the suspension travel sum, it will still have more suspension travel then I know what to do with! This is going to be a fun rig to learn how to wheel in (again).

-Wayne

Well that sucks you can't cycle the rear because that was the exact question I was goin to ask. I have been trying to figure out a way to do nearly the same link set up (opposite side) on my Runner, so I am very curious to see how yours works.

Well that sucks you can't cycle the rear because that was the exact question I was goin to ask. I have been trying to figure out a way to do nearly the same link set up (opposite side) on my Runner, so I am very curious to see how yours works.

Check out the Toyota kit that Bender put on his Toy. Basically exactly what you are talking about only he used coil springs. The main reason I went with this link layout is the amount of free space it leaves in the middle. My rear passenger's ass will be down in that space. Just works well at keeping a low CG on a vehicle. Hopefully my layout is correct and it will perform well.

-Wayne

I saw that post, but had forgotten about it thanks for the reminder. I also saw the DRM post, now I need to start gathering parts and get to work. Best of luck with yours can't wait to see the action shots.

Things are really getting rolling now. We started out the weekend by sitting down with a calendar and a list of things we still have to do and came out with a detailed plan and schedule for completing each part of the build. The rig will not be finished for EJS, thats not even our goal, but it should be driveable and ready to wheel. It just probably wont have things like a hood, firewall, rear seat, storage, lights, body panels, paint.

Todays task was to finish the suspension, by mounting both panhards. Wayne started at the rear and came up with a really nice frame mount that came out just awesome. While he did this I got some customer stuff done before adding a little more tube to the cage. We decided to double up the B-pillar to add some strength without running a huge diagonal right through our rear side openings. After all with a 3rd seat back there you need to be able to get in and out without being a contortionist midget. As it worked out it actually makes the b-pillar look much more samurai like. Heres the pics.

The completed rear suspension.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne046.jpg

That kickass panhard mount.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne047.jpg

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne048.jpg

Before someone comments the second pillar tube will continue all the way down.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne049.jpg

And the finished roof.
http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne050.jpg


Dallas

All you guys moaning about the looks, you really have to wait till it's done. I think it's looking nice, I wasn't sure about the lines in back but after you mounted more stuff up it's looking good. Not to mention when the gas tank, seats and links all get installed it'll fill in fast.

It is nice to have those panhards in, short of a couple of finish welds, the suspension is now done.

The radiator is also finished short of an optional task I'd like to get in before Moab of welding in some temp switch bungs. Anyone know where to locate some of these for Aluminum? Probably go with a GM style, but at this point I go with whatever switch and bung combo I can come up with.

Well, off to order up some goodies, and talk to my driveshaft guy. Hopefully the junkyard shafts I pulled will be able to be put to good use in the front end.

You will see a few shortcuts we will be making for Moab. First will be using a simple Samurai gas tank. This will be a temporary item as we just don't have time to design and build the final version right now. Heck, even the floors will probably be some temporary sheets we slap in, but it looks like we will make it to Moab. (knocking on wood.)

-Wayne

That Panhard mount is the shiznit. I saw one pull off the frame this weekend I dont think that will be an issue for you.

I gotta a question about your set up. I have been talking to as many people as I can and keep getting mixed reviews of how they think a 3-link will work on how a panhard has a tendancy to make the rear axle walk left and right. I have seen one mount with the frame point higher then the axle point, another was level and now yours with the frame location lower (if you are sitting at ride height). Did you do this to help remedy the walk? Looking at your set up and thinking how it would travel it seems that would give you the most travel before the swing factor kicks in and tries to move the axle left to right. Is this your undstanding as well and the reason for you set up?

That Panhard mount is the shiznit. I saw one pull off the frame this weekend I dont think that will be an issue for you.

I gotta a question about your set up. I have been talking to as many people as I can and keep getting mixed reviews of how they think a 3-link will work on how a panhard has a tendancy to make the rear axle walk left and right. I have seen one mount with the frame point higher then the axle point, another was level and now yours with the frame location lower (if you are sitting at ride height). Did you do this to help remedy the walk? Looking at your set up and thinking how it would travel it seems that would give you the most travel before the swing factor kicks in and tries to move the axle left to right. Is this your undstanding as well and the reason for you set up?
remember, his suspension/frame/buggy is being built at full compression.

That Panhard mount is the shiznit. I saw one pull off the frame this weekend I dont think that will be an issue for you.

I gotta a question about your set up. I have been talking to as many people as I can and keep getting mixed reviews of how they think a 3-link will work on how a panhard has a tendancy to make the rear axle walk left and right. I have seen one mount with the frame point higher then the axle point, another was level and now yours with the frame location lower (if you are sitting at ride height). Did you do this to help remedy the walk? Looking at your set up and thinking how it would travel it seems that would give you the most travel before the swing factor kicks in and tries to move the axle left to right. Is this your undstanding as well and the reason for you set up?


The suspension is actually at full compression. The rear axle will be about 8 inches lower at ride height. You are currently looking at a -6 degree angle on that panhard, and it will probably work out to about +5 degrees at ride height. This is NOT ideal, you really want it level at ride height as this will creat some jacking moment on the body during off camber motions. But we elected to match the front and rear panhards for over all chassis balance, and the front panhard angle is set based on the steering draglink angle, and that is the best draglink angle I could get without having the steering box sitting in the dirt, or steering linkage sitting up in my radiator. It will be fine, but is not ideal.

As far as the axle walking from side to side, we are talking about a VERY small amount. I consider this a non issue with panhards this long (29-1/2"), and this level. Panhard length matches the draglink length. If I was really worried about it I could have used a watts link. This will always keep the axle in perfect center. Look in the back of a PT Cruiser to understand how they work. I have not seen anyone use a watts link on a long travel suspension, but it should work.

There is a good thread in the general 4x4 section where a Jeep owner took his built rig on 4 links and converted to a panhard layout. He took pics before and after with the Jeep with the same exact flex (his trailer) and you can see how the axle placement differs from the 2 methods. Rather interesting to actually see it. I can see advantages for either system.

This suspension does work and is rather popular with moon buggies as it allows them a lot of room for driver and engine to sit below and between the links. I liked it for 2 reasons. I felt it gave me a lot more room down low, and this in turn should help lower my center of gravity.

-Wayne

Hey Wayne,

Not trying to be to critical, but that second bar behind the B pillar kind of looks like an orphan. It ties into nothing and offers minimal strength. Why don't you get the back seat in and see if you could deal with a bar from the rear upper shock mount to maybe 9" to 12" down from the top of the B pillar, then continuing on to the roof bar. That bar you have just breaks up the continuity of the cage.

Rusty

Thanks for the feed back, the information has been invaluable and definitely makes me more comfortable in going forward with designing a 3-link.

I'm a little curios as to why you didn't triangulate the lowers in the rear when you could have. Also wondering how tall that panhard mount is from axle centerline to the middle of your panhard bolt. Are you going to run a cross gusset on the chassi panhard mount? Seems like it would clean it up to connect those two triangle plate gussets you have going to the chassi panhard tabs. Or maybe just get a piece of tube and connect the two where you hole sawed that big hole in them. If it were me I'd box those gussets and just notch out a place for the panhard.
I'd also have to agree with my good buddy rusty on those little orphans you got going on behind the B pillar. Curious as to the thinking on that one. Also it seems like the side spreaders that connect the A and B pillars are gunna take a licking so you might wanna think about somehow gusseting to the middle of them. Chris seemed to bend the crap out of his all the time.
I assume you are going to add some lateral construction to it so I won't comment on that till it's done.
Anywho you got some interesting idea there. Get her done so we cruise to Moab! Brent and I leave the 18th

Good thoughts, will put some thought to them.

We plan to leave on the 18th also. Might have to caravan out.

-Wayne

Got a little more done last night. Finished the rear winch mount, battery mount and the framework for the rear seat mount. also added a little tube.

front panhard in place

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne051.jpg



Frame for the back seat, battery tray and rear winch.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne052.jpg



Seat and battery in

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne053.jpg


And to show how much headroom there is in back, a stupid picture of me.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne054.jpg


Dallas

Wayne;

If you ran a bar from the rear upper shock mount to the upper rear intersection of the roof, then your frame will be braced. But the down side is, it will look like a Gremlin. :laughing:

Rusty

Yes, yes it would. :laughing:

Dallas

You know, I think I have more structure in the rear then that tubed out rig in the background of this picture and that is a well tested vehicle. Never have heard of its cage structure failing, damaged and replaced, but failed? And that thing rolls and endos all the time, and weighs a lot more. It is chromo though.

Still have some tubes to add, but waiting on seats and getting more installs done. Easy access right now.

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne050.jpg

It's hood fits my buggy very nicely. :grinpimp:

Worked on some small stuff last night. Mostly wiring the winches, but I need to get some more wire. I did a few bad estimates on length and size. Oh well, I have some really nice wire for the fuel pump now. Front winch solenoid pack is tucked away back by the battery. Used about the last space down low I had that is not eaten up by driuve shafts or exhaust. Nice thing is that my 12 volt always hot line is reduced to about 1 foot. Bad news is that I have to run three 11 foot lines up to the winch.

Driveshafts have been dropped off for some workings. Using my CV Toy shaft for the rear extended to 26" and the front shaft will be a hybrid of sorts. We grabbed 1-1/2 85 Toyota 2 wheel drive 2 peice shafts from the junk yard. One is a fresh looking rebuild unit. We needed the extra half shaft for the flang as the 2wd Toys have slip yokes. My driveline guy is going to provide me a slip shaft and upgrade the carrier bearing to a Ford unit. The Ford bearing is the same size as the Toy but is easier to mount and much more solid construction. He reports good luck using this layout in V8 jeeps with low gears. We shall see how it does. Looks more impressive then the Toyota unit.

Should be picking up a set of Beard Super Seats Friday.

-Wayne

Ya know I really am kinda liking this look

http://www.stinkyfab.com/images/projects/wayne/wayne055.jpg

Dallas

You know, I think I have more structure in the rear then that tubed out rig in the background of this picture and that is a well tested vehicle. Never have heard of its cage structure failing, damaged and replaced, but failed? And that thing rolls and endos all the time, and weighs a lot more.
structure, yes, crossbracing, no...

Hmmm.....Ya think there's a difference between mild and Chromoly?






































Uuuuuu.....yeah!
:flipoff2:

Steering works.. Well, except for the steering shaft that I have not done yet. should be a busy weekend with the seats, fuel tank, fuel pumps, final bits of winch wiring, axle winch points, and a bunch of other goodies that I can't remember right now.. Been way too many 3 am nights this week, about pulled in front of a truck on my morning drive to the office. Would have been a grand crash.

Cross bracing... The B pillar gets cross braced, and the interior gets some more tube.

-Wayne

Picked up my driveshafts, seats and eletrical cable for the front winch.. Lets just say another expensive day in buggy land.

-Wayne

howd ya get ahold of the rock it? thought it sold to someone in nother country??

It hasn't been sold, at least not yet and hopefully not any time soon. I was just doing a little wiring and body work on it so that Dustin could trash it again at TDS :p

Dallas

Seats are in, drive shafts look good, with rear installed, front can't be fully installed until I pull the rig off the jig. Steering shaft and steering wheel are in, just need another 5/8" jam nut and some finish welds. Winches were wired, but decided to relocate the controls so I need to shorten some wire lengths. Gas pedal is tacked in.

Would have gotten more done but was feeling pretty sick last night. A full nights sleep has me feeling much better now. Lots of plumbing to do...

Sure is nice to have seats in it!

-Wayne

Man, I just had a bad realization. I was in Lake Forest ALL last week and not until today did I realize that you guys were RIGHT THERE :shaking:

Well.... how's it coming? You got exactly one week left! hahahaha I hope you are able to drive it around the street at least before you load it up on the trailer!
:flipoff2:

ALL RIGHT, I LOG ON THREE TIMES A DAY TO SEE PROGRESS. AND NOTHING
GET OFF YOUR YOUR BUTT AND POST PICS. DRIVE SHAFTS, TIRES, HOOD
SEATS, FINISH WELDS. IF WE DONT HAVE ANYTHING TO FLAME ON, WHAT
GOOD ARE YOU!!!!! :flipoff2:

Wow, Pirate is actually working right now.. Have not been able to get on since my last post.

Sorry no picks, and have been forced into delaying my Moab trip. The buggy was on schedule to make the trip though. New plans are April 9th for Calico and then the Toyota Jamboree.

-Wayne

Just a quick note on this project..

I worked on her last weekend (rather then going to Moab.. :( ) and the exhaust is tacked in and hung. All of the coolant lines are in (couple of them were a bitch and half) and my expensive turbo fittings are on. Finished the rear axle with some ring gear armour and finished all it's welds. Then cleaned out the housing and installed my trail spare 8" diff with 5.29 and EZ locker, then painted it and hung back on the rig. (Will build up the ARB'd 5.29 V6 rear later.) Tacked up the turbo to intercooler line and modified the throttle body intake. I know there is more, but it is escaping me right now. Damn I hate plumbing stuff!

Talked to Dallas a couple of times on the cell phone, last time he was playing on Potatoe Salad Hill in Moab. He is hitting the trails in the Bugzuki project and having a great time. Sounds like it is working very well. Heck even the stock Toy birfs are still holding together despite some attempts to bust them with my 37s. Even walked through upper Helldorado with no carnage. Sweet. (Still waiting for pics..)

Will be at the shop again this weekend getting more things checked off the list. Mostly just a bunch of that annoying little stuff like plumbing.. Have I mentioned I hate plumbing?

-Wayne

So??? :flipoff2:

So??? :flipoff2:

Don't bug him, he's got another event to miss..

Don't you guys have some rigs to build or something? :flipoff2:

The pics are in Dallas' camera, and he has been crazy busy this last week. He has more jobs then you can poke a stick at, so I have not bugged him for photos.

It is very close to firing up the engine, just a bit more plumbing and electrical, and I want to flush out the frame rails before filling them with coolant. I imagine I'll fire her up next week end, and get her off the chassis jig.

This weekend I'm off to Calico for a little wheeling in the bugzuki project. Might even make it over to the Hammers to check out that brand new trail with the Cal4Wheel folks on Sunday.

Spent yesterday chasing some last minute parts and have changed my mind about my fuel system layout. Also, found a great use for a couple of Toyota IFS parts that typically get thrown away. Looks like the front IFS brake lines will work very well for my front axle brake lines, and also for the ends of the links. I'll show some pics when I get there..

Have a great weekend.

-Wayne

This weekend I'm off to Calico for a little wheeling in the bugzuki project. Might even make it over to the Hammers to check out that brand new trail with the Cal4Wheel folks on Sunday.


which new trail wayne? hwy 20 or is there another one?

which new trail wayne? hwy 20 or is there another one?

Well, maybe not in the Hammer's, but part of Johnson Valley. I don't know the name of the trail, but the Desert Dawgs club has been working on it for the last many weekends and I have seen a few pictures of it. Looks like a nice trail, not a killer. It is near the Anderson Staging area (north west of the Hammers). Here is a link to some info:

http://ca4wdc.com/meetings/south.html

Note sure I'll make it over there, but might be fun. Need to see how many people stay at Calico on Sunday morning.

-Wayne

Well, maybe not in the Hammer's, but part of Johnson Valley. I don't know the name of the trail, but the Desert Dawgs club has been working on it for the last many weekends and I have seen a few pictures of it. Looks like a nice trail, not a killer. It is near the Anderson Staging area (north west of the Hammers). Here is a link to some info:

http://ca4wdc.com/meetings/south.html

Note sure I'll make it over there, but might be fun. Need to see how many people stay at Calico on Sunday morning.

-Wayne
ah...sounds like over by cougar buettes area.

if you make it over, come back with some pics of the trail :D

Don't you guys have some rigs to build or something? :flipoff2:

-Wayne

Not in the last 4 weeks. I'm lucky to get outside to the garbage with a bag of poopey diapers. :flipoff2:

I now have to live vicariously through you! :D

I guess that's not completely true, I've got a weekend pass to go to the Dunes at the end of the month.

I've got photos for all you image whores.. :grinpimp:

These are a few days old.. Motor is now fully plumbed, and some brake and fuel lines are in. I hate the plumbing, but trying to keep it clean.

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0279.JPG

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0280.JPG

Steering gets a little tight:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0281.JPG

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0282.JPG

-Wayne

Are you still planning on street driving this?

Passenger's floor with optional foot heater:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0284.JPG

Driver's floor: (Yep, this shows almost all of the Suzuki content in this vehicle.)
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0290.JPG

Haven't removed the bags yet..
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0291.JPG

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0292.JPG

50 feet of header wrap on the optional foot warmer:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0293.JPG

Main turbo ducting:
http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0294.JPG

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0295.JPG

http://aaaprodisplays.com/misc/roto3/IMG_0296.JPG

-Wayne