Here is my writeup for the CTM U-joints. (http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/ctm)

Enjoy!

Nice article Lance :D

Nice!

I am looking forward to the D60 version!

Great article! I'll be installing CTM's in my EB D44 before next season:)

Warn axles right, were they covered under warranty?

Since you all missed me B-day you can get me a set, as a late B-day gift and I won't hold it against you that you missed it.

Originally posted by Chris Geiger
Nice!

I am looking forward to the D60 version!

Chris, Jack has D60 versions.... Give him a call!

just thaught you'd like to know that the title on the article is about yota super birfields.
Jeff

Originally posted by Jeffh555
just thaught you'd like to know that the title on the article is about yota super birfields.
Jeff

:emb: Thanks! Good eye! ;)

There are aftermarket for a 44, but what about the u-joint?

Did you forget the word 'axles"?

Now I have a question. It seems in the past, the problem was not so much breaking the U-joint (they are after-all cheap wearable, replacabel components), but the fact that when it failed, it often destroyed your high $ axles when it did.

So, now we have a bombroof unbreakable U-joint...great. But guess what...we're right back where we were - breaking high $ axles and knuckles.

Seems a less than perfect solution to me, no?

OR

Is it just that the 297 were so weak that they broke very readily (taking out the axles) and now, with a CTM, the weak link is moved to the shaft / hub....but the threshold of the new weak link is significantly greater than it was for the 297 joint weak link, resulting in a greater "margin" or envelope in which one can drive without breakage? Does that make sense?

What i'm trying to say is this (assume a fictional force/stress scale of 1 to 10)

Old 297 joints were weak link and broke at 4 (often taking out shafts)
New CTM joint breaks at 10, but shafts and hub brake at about 7.
So - while not bombproofing the entire assembly, and with breakage still often resulting in the loss of high $$ shafts...what you have gained is the difference between 4 and 7...so, if you don;t want to break high $$ shafts you now have to stop at 6, rather than 3?

Is that the logic?

Good grief I can waffle on when i get going!

I believe it's DriveTrainDirect that offer lifetime warrenty on their D44 Warn shafts. Now go GET IT!!!!

does Warn sell/guarantee any d-60/70 outer 35 spline shafts??

How much are the D-60 ujoints??

--A very impressed builder,

--Sherpa

Very good, article, Lance.

maybe it's finally time to throw a 44 in my P.O.S.
hmmmmm
Good writeup Lance, I'm convinced!

I think I'm gonna like My D44 a lot better now.

Nice article Lance:vader2:

I'm putting my order in today. Great stuff Lance. Thanks.

Where should I get em? I emailed CTM for a supplier list. Is Sean selling em?

Originally posted by BillaVista

Is that the logic?! I think the logic is that most of the time your u-joint is the weakest link, by making the u-joint indestructible I think the next in line would be the hub.

Originally posted by LOPPY
I'm putting my order in today. Great stuff Lance. Thanks.

Where should I get em? I emailed CTM for a supplier list. Is Sean selling em?


Bob Roggy and Grady's Extreme Off Road, are both distributers

Hey, doesn't look like them joints uses roller bearings??:confused:
I'm assuming you have to keep em greased often to keep em happy huh?
If that's the case, how would you grease em'? By taking them apart everytime, or does it use a grease zerk, or the needle type?
My monitor is not so great here at work, so I can't really tell. Thanks :)
Boss

Originally posted by Boss
Hey, doesn't look like them joints uses roller bearings??:confused:
I'm assuming you have to keep em greased often to keep em happy huh?
If that's the case, how would you grease em'? By taking them apart everytime, or does it use a grease zerk, or the needle type?
My monitor is not so great here at work, so I can't really tell. Thanks :)
Boss

Boss, each cap has a zerk on the tip of it. You can grease them in the vehicle. You are correct, they do not have needle bearings. Jack recommends greasing them about as often as you grease your driveline ujoints, whatever that may be.... But of course the more often, the better.

Originally posted by H8monday



Bob Roggy and Grady's Extreme Off Road, are both distributers

Thanks Jeff. I'm going to take the rig down to Grady for some steering help next week. My order will be in then. :D

Nice write-up Lance. You sure do know how to destroy a front
end, don't you.:D :D

nice Lance

do they have them for a 10 bolt front like does the 10 bolt take the same size as the 44?

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
nice Lance

do they have them for a 10 bolt front like does the 10 bolt take the same size as the 44?

Yes they run the same ujoint.

Originally posted by Lance


:emb: Thanks! Good eye! ;)


allthough this is not how i would ask it, i want to see the answear to this Q?

i can't see the advantage to the CTM joints. not if the next thing to go is the stub shaft, at 3 time the cost of a joint. i still want a 60.
steelman

Originally posted by steelman



allthough this is not how i would ask it, i want to see the answear to this Q?

i can't see the advantage to the CTM joints. not if the next thing to go is the stub shaft, at 3 time the cost of a joint. i still want a 60.
steelman

If you can't see the advantage, then get yourself a 60. But make sure you leave in the 30 spline stub shafts because I can't see the benefit of upgrading them to 35 spline. ;)

Originally posted by RCKRATZ
I think the logic is that most of the time your u-joint is the weakest link, by making the u-joint indestructible I think the next in line would be the hub.

I guess logic doesn't come in to play when Lance is around, he found the weakest link.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/ctm/Image005.jpg

Time for some CTM knuckles I guess:flipoff2:

Craig

Originally posted by CrazyCraig


I guess logic doesn't come in to play when Lance is around, he found the weakest link.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/ctm/Image005.jpg

Time for some CTM knuckles I guess:flipoff2:

Craig

Crazy, the knuckle already was damaged from a previous ujoint breakage (when Jesse's prototype joint exploded in Farmington). There was rust halfway through the break, indicating that it had been cracked for a while. :)

so do you think Waren is going to refund you for that broken axel :question:

great write up lance.


my thoughts are that with alloy shafts and ctm's the d44 is now a viabable ( well at least cost effective ) option for all but the most hardcore or very heavy rigs.

Since these u joints don't have roller bearings are they ok to use on the street as well? I thought I remembered hearing these could not be used on the street due to the non bearing design. True or not?? They look awesome.

Originally posted by Weasel
Since these u joints don't have roller bearings are they ok to use on the street as well? I thought I remembered hearing these could not be used on the street due to the non bearing design. True or not?? They look awesome.

Jack says that they can be run on the street, no problem.

Originally posted by Lance


If you can't see the advantage, then get yourself a 60. But make sure you leave in the 30 spline stub shafts because I can't see the benefit of upgrading them to 35 spline. ;)


ok, i'll try again.
there are a lot of people that have broken Warn shafts. not counting the ones that have broken the shaft from a broken joint. ex.- joint brakes then it takes out the shaft. people have broken inners and outers and the ujoint was fine. so now you throw in the super 300m u joint. so now i can't break the joint but i still break. but instead of replacing the $25 joint i'm looking at a $250 axle inner or outer or both. or even a ring and pinion or etc..
i realize that these are making the 44 more reliable. but at what cost? not all of us are running 3200 lbs competion rigs. like my bronco, i don't wheel mine anywhere as hard as you do, but i still brake 5 or more ujoints a summer. and i'm sure that if i install a CTM joint i'll start breaking axle shafts. so with my heavy weight (4700 lbs ) bronco i feel that the 60 is a better pick.

i feel that the CTM has its place. and its a great new product that does what it says.
but i think that when Lance speaks, sometimes someone needs to yell "HEY THE EMPEROR HAS NO CLOTHES"
steelman

Lance, Nice article.

Steelman, Everytime I break a U joint it takes an axle with it.
Not the other way. It's always Ujoint then axle.

I myself will be trying them out in my DANA 30. With New Spicer axle shafts both sides innner and outer.

I know CTM recommends high quality alloy shafts (I read CTM's site) But I want to see if the CTM or the Shaft is stronger.

Hopefully, the Dana 30 Ring and pinion is the weak link. (This will give me a reason to upgrade) :D

And since I dont have a hub to nuke... I would hope the Ring and pinion would be next in line for me... The ARB should hold up, now that we welded it together......:rolleyes:

How'd you get the Cruiser out?:rasta:

Originally posted by steelman



ok, i'll try again.
there are a lot of people that have broken Warn shafts. not counting the ones that have broken the shaft from a broken joint. ex.- joint brakes then it takes out the shaft. people have broken inners and outers and the ujoint was fine. so now you throw in the super 300m u joint. so now i can't break the joint but i still break. but instead of replacing the $25 joint i'm looking at a $250 axle inner or outer or both. or even a ring and pinion or etc..
i realize that these are making the 44 more reliable. but at what cost? not all of us are running 3200 lbs competion rigs. like my bronco, i don't wheel mine anywhere as hard as you do, but i still brake 5 or more ujoints a summer. and i'm sure that if i install a CTM joint i'll start breaking axle shafts. so with my heavy weight (4700 lbs ) bronco i feel that the 60 is a better pick.

i feel that the CTM has its place. and its a great new product that does what it says.
but i think that when Lance speaks, sometimes someone needs to yell "HEY THE EMPEROR HAS NO CLOTHES"
steelman


I am running the CTM's in my rig, and have been running them for four months.
I have a 4400lb YJ. I typicaly would break a 1/2 dozen U joints in a weekend at the hammers.
I have ran the CTM's through the CalROCS competition, and about a dozen runs through the Hammers, including the hardest trail, I think Ive ever driven at JV,"Upper Big Johnson. I have powdered a Warn Premium locking hub, "which is the next weakest link", but have not been able to break the joint or axle.
The old D44 joints were just so weak compared to what the rest of the axle can handle with alloy shafts, that the D44, can now handle most peoples requirements for up to the 38" tire range.
Buy a D60 if you think you need one, no one is saying the D44 is stronger. But a D44 with Warn shafts and CTMs, may be all youll ever need. Especialy if you are only breaking a few joints a year.
And for cryin out loud, dont ever say "The Emperor is wearing no clothes", when referring to Lance, the visual is just too:barf:

Originally posted by BellyUp
Lance, Nice article.

Steelman, Everytime I break a U joint it takes an axle with it.
Not the other way. It's always Ujoint then axle.

I myself will be trying them out in my DANA 30. With New Spicer axle shafts both sides innner and outer.

I know CTM recommends high quality alloy shafts (I read CTM's site) But I want to see if the CTM or the Shaft is stronger.

Hopefully, the Dana 30 Ring and pinion is the weak link. (This will give me a reason to upgrade) :D

And since I dont have a hub to nuke... I would hope the Ring and pinion would be next in line for me... The ARB should hold up, now that we welded it together......:rolleyes:


The new spicer shafts will be snapped easily and the CTM's will laugh.
I used to snap fresh D30 spicer axle shafts, an a regular basis, with fresh 297 joints welded in place.
That is not even an experiment.
You will get shock fractures at the inner splines, that will be cut clean as whistle