: Custom CNC Alum connecting rods?


Old Scout
02-04-2002, 10:01 PM
Sorry it's a little off topic, but I'm looking for a shop that can make me a set of custom CNC rods for a 1949 marine racing engine that I'm building. I hope the mind trust at POR can help

Here is one of the good ones , only need four new ones made.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=297461.jpg


If your curious about what I'm building it's a 1949 Universal Blue jacket Racing marine engine.


In 1946 at the end of WWII the marine industry thought that new racing classes were just the ticket to get the returning G.I.s into boating. They started a small group of boats that were inboard or outboard. Ranging from 12 to 18 feet

My Universal blue jacket is from the 130 cubic inch inboard class.
The 130 Cu.in class died in 1949 and only had 200 boats built. Some on the other classes had over 10,000 boats built. Needless to say this is a very rare motor. Of 200 boats built they were powered by three different engines. The Gray Marine Fireball, Universal Blue Jacket , Lycoming Prancer. The engine is almost all aluminum and built for high rpm use. Universal Marine is still around but is no help in this hand built one of only 40 .

Land Crusher
02-05-2002, 05:06 PM
if you cant find a local cnc shop

try seattle as ther is a lot of shops that
used to make parts for air planes.

other wise try Union Bay raceing
thay are located in seattle and should be
able to help you.

Land Crusher
02-05-2002, 05:13 PM
you might want to get a complete set made.

you said that the engine runs at high rpm

I would think that matching the weight of each
part might be important,

The material used to make new ones will probubly not match the old ones.

at least have every thing balanced.

Donovan
02-05-2002, 05:16 PM
Here is a company that is said to have built 7out of the top 10 pro stock rods. http://www.grpconrods.com/

Land Crusher
02-05-2002, 05:16 PM
another thing I would do is have the pistons
ceramic coated on the top and teflon coat the
sides.
this is cheep insurance against a lot of
problems.

I recomend swain tec thay are on the web
and have given me great service at a very
cheep price.

how are the cylinders?

Old Scout
02-05-2002, 05:43 PM
Thanks for the leads :D :D
OHH YEA it's getting all new rods. It's a 130 Cubic inch flat head four. Redline is 5500, not bad for 1946. Here is whats left of the one that let go.

jdjanda
02-05-2002, 06:27 PM
Originally posted by Old Scout
Thanks for the leads :D :D
OHH YEA it's getting all new rods. It's a 130 Cubic inch flat head four. Redline is 5500, not bad for 1946. Here is whats left of the one that let go.

So that's what rod knock sounds like :flipoff2:

Nice work!

Old Scout
02-06-2002, 08:13 AM
Originally posted by jdjanda


So that's what rod knock sounds like :flipoff2:

Nice work!

Not my work,I just get to clean up the mess.:D ;) :cool:

syko
02-06-2002, 08:47 AM
Originally posted by Old Scout
Thanks for the leads :D :D
OHH YEA it's getting all new rods. It's a 130 Cubic inch flat head four. Redline is 5500, not bad for 1946. Here is whats left of the one that let go.


:eek: What the hell does the block look like.

Old Scout
02-06-2002, 09:24 AM
The block is aluminum and the rod was aluminum so it wasn't too bad. We took the clean block to a buddies house with a big ass oven and heated it to 500F. We then removed the block and wrapped it in welding blankets. My welding guy from hell used some weird kind of stick and repaired the bulge with cracks in the side of the block. We then returned the block to the oven for 30 minutes. We then very slowly turned the temp down over 8 hours.

Cryslr
02-06-2002, 01:22 PM
I work in a machine shop send me a P.M. or check out our web site.

Synergyproto.com