I kinda put the cart before the horse.

What I'm trying to build is a trail rig for Shopgrrl. Street-legal so it can be driven from trailhead to trailhead and around town.

3.9 (to start with, more later), EFI, 14 CUx ('95 Disco)

ZF tranny (sorry Superman, ******).('95 Disco)

LT-230 (two wheel drive/four wheel lock?)

DIsc brakes, vacuum booster ('95 Disco)

Coil sprung axles, 24-spline axles, open diffs (welded spool?) ('95 Disco) At least to start. One thought, retain leaf springs in back and hang my Sals under it in the back.

Power steering ('95 Disco)

~2-3" spring lift (Rovertym springs, BTL spacers)

Modest tires, aggressive tread. 235/85-16?

Three link? SG/shop fab?

'67 SIIA body panels.

Killer stereo blaring loud metal when Shopgrrl drives off-road :flipoff2:

Comments?

PT

PT,

Comments

"LT-230 (two wheel drive/four wheel lock?)"

Leave it fulltime, helps with handling

"(welded spool?)"

BOOM!

"retain leaf springs in back and hang my Sals under it in the back."

EEK, drum brakes, bad suspension and really shot rear driveshaft, no thanks

"~2-3" spring lift (Rovertym springs, BTL spacers)"

Stock disco springs with a light 88 body will put it at a decent hieght. Normal 2in springs would be adequate

"'67 SIIA body panels."

Need SIII front fenders or it will look ghetto.

"Leave it fulltime, helps with handling"
+1

"retain leaf springs in back and hang my Sals under it in the back."

run some parabolics and source a new tom woods DS

tires - 35x12.50 MT/r's are just about 34" in height, and ride decent on the highway. they would also get back some of the lost clearance from that boat-anchor salisbury diff :flipoff2:

as for the brakes - if you're going from scratch, is there any reason NOT to run a hydroboost setup? It looks pretty easy, especially if you're using the simpler disco calipers.

for simplicity, I'd stick with radius arms and coils up front.

3.9 (to start with, more later), EFI, 14 CUx ('95 Disco)
Adequate

ZF tranny (sorry Superman, ******).('95 Disco)
Good

LT-230 (two wheel drive/four wheel lock?)
I say leave it full time also

DIsc brakes, vacuum booster ('95 Disco)
OK

Coil sprung axles, 24-spline axles, open diffs (welded spool?) ('95 Disco) At least to start. One thought, retain leaf springs in back and hang my Sals under it in the back.
stock axles you mean? with a welded diff? Don't know what would blow up first, the diff or the axles.

Power steering ('95 Disco)
OK

~2-3" spring lift (Rovertym springs, BTL spacers)
OK

Modest tires, aggressive tread. 235/85-16?
Too small

Three link? SG/shop fab?
Cool

'67 SIIA body panels.
Sweet

Killer stereo blaring loud metal when Shopgrrl drives off-road :flipoff2:
A Must

Comments?
I have nothing of any use to say, as usual.

ooh, sounds fun.
i really like the stereo, very underrated trail neccessity. :smokin:
must play at least shoot to thrill and definately thunderstruck.
oh and sex farm woman by spinal tap :p

Modest tires, aggressive tread. 235/85-16?

PT

Make that 255/85-16. Blends in nicely with the look, and will work better offroad.

If you can adapt the Disco/RR 'pedal panel' to a series foot well, you will get the most out ouf your donor parts (brake, clutch etc). For that matter, why not redesign the footwell, most are rotted anyway. I am hoping to be able to widen my driver footwell by a few precious inches. I am also eliminating the seatbox, buy going with a flat floor, and hope to lower the seat and move it back slighty to make driving a bit more comfortable. Being 6'2" the stock seris position isnt that comfortable after an hour or so.

-Jeff

Since you have the sals, I would widen it and convert to coils and discs. You can get practically all the parts to do this from a RR axle, so it won't cost you anything except one long axle and drive flanges - but you could maybe change the lenth of both sides so you can get stock 24spl disco axles to fit - that way it would cost you nothing but time and a bit of machining.

I definitely woudn't run rear leaf and a 6" narrower rear axle with a coil front though.

You'll be kicking yourself later if you go with stock stuff in the axles. Don't make a nice hybrid and make it carnage-prone with stock Disco axles. Go buy some of those cheap D44's from that Scout board...

Stock 95 Disco for all the rest of the drivetrain is easy and good to go most anywhere !

35x12.5 fer sher...

Stock rear suspension with retained tall springs, 3-link front and 12" travel shocks both ends...

You'll be kicking yourself later if you go with stock stuff in the axles. Don't make a nice hybrid and make it carnage-prone with stock Disco axles. Go buy some of those cheap D44's from that Scout board...

Stock 95 Disco for all the rest of the drivetrain is easy and good to go most anywhere !

35x12.5 fer sher...

Stock rear suspension with retained tall springs, 3-link front and 12" travel shocks both ends...

The sals in the back is a MUCH stronger centre than the D44 and the axles can be upgraded to 35 spline easily either from jacmac or revor when he gets his spindles out.

The weakest point in the front (if running 3.54's) will be the AEU2522's, which are only about as strong as a stock D44 u-joint, a longfield upgrade and toy centre upgrade would make the front a lot stronger than a stock D44 and probably stronger than a built D44.

You'll be kicking yourself later if you go with stock stuff in the axles. Don't make a nice hybrid and make it carnage-prone with stock Disco axles. Go buy some of those cheap D44's from that Scout board...

Stock 95 Disco for all the rest of the drivetrain is easy and good to go most anywhere !

35x12.5 fer sher...

Stock rear suspension with retained tall springs, 3-link front and 12" travel shocks both ends...

Hey PT I hear there is a mog in a cornfield in IL. The axle width is also perfect for a Rover, or so I have heard. :flipoff2:

The sals in the back is a MUCH stronger centre than the D44 and the axles can be upgraded to 35 spline easily either from jacmac or revor when he gets his spindles out.

The weakest point in the front (if running 3.54's) will be the AEU2522's, which are only about as strong as a stock D44 u-joint, a longfield upgrade and toy centre upgrade would make the front a lot stronger than a stock D44 and probably stronger than a built D44.

Maybe a stronger center but ground clearance is worse and it's much heavier than a d44 or disco axles. Why not start with a real d60 with 1.5" shafts instead?

Here we go again! I think PT has stated that he is grafting a series body on a disco for mild wheeling on 235/85-16's.

BUT should you really be in the mood, I think I have a line on a pair of Scania military truck axles. Hub reduction, more than 16" under the diff without portals and totally indestructible. The rims are 26.5" ! Less than $800 with wheels and springs.

Only drawback is weight, ONE brake drum weights in excess of 150lbs. :flipoff2:

BUT should you really be in the mood, I think I have a line on a pair of Scania military truck axles. Hub reduction, more than 16" under the diff without portals and totally indestructible. The rims are 26.5" ! Less than $800 with wheels and springs.



I just passed up four Rockwells for $500. Two rears, two fronts. They were only three hours round-trip from home.

No, not for this truck.

Weight is the enemy of strength. A coil sprung 88 should not be much over 3200lbs