: External hub ??????
Brawler 02-05-2002, 07:25 AM What is the miricle solution to keeping the bolts from backing out on these things? I was gonna put studs in and locktight them but is that enough or do you recommend something else? What about using an epoxy to "weld" the studs in?
Scout Dude 02-05-2002, 07:35 AM Bottom line is: They are going to break. Do you really want to deal with locktite then? Either get the conversion kit or use grade 5 bolts so you can easily extract them WHEN they break:)
RustoleumWhite 02-05-2002, 07:37 AM most people report good sucsess with studs and lock nuts. Maybe some Loc-tite red on the studs.
I just tighten mine before every trip, been pretty OK so far.
I wouldn't epoxy the studs in, there WILL come a day when you NEED to remove them.... and you will be hating your self.
Go for the studs, if they start to fail you, then go internal :D
Brawler 02-05-2002, 07:40 AM Thanks guys. Do they make a conversion kit? If so who and of coarse how much$$$$$$$$$$$$
jdjanda 02-05-2002, 08:57 AM I use my 1/4" ratchet and 1/2" socket to tighten the nuts, fits perfect, no need to remove anything. About 30 seconds per side. The others are correct you will at some point need to extract the nuts. Some guys run Grade 5 HW as a poor man fuse, in the hope that the bolts let go before the U-joint.
Here is the link to the hub kit.
Warn Hub Kit (http://www.warn.com/InternetHome/products/Axles/FrontHubOlder.shtm)
tsm1mt 02-05-2002, 09:19 AM Originally posted by Brawler
What is the miricle solution to keeping the bolts from backing out on these things? I was gonna put studs in and locktight them but is that enough or do you recommend something else? What about using an epoxy to "weld" the studs in?
I use new Grade 8 bolts and new lock-washers - along with some Red loctite.
I can still get the bolts out WHEN I grendade the hub. There usually isn't much left when I do smoke one - I think I finally threw out the lunch bag of small parts from the last one I destroyed.
Hooper just installed his Warn hub conversion kit.
But for $250-ish...
You'll see me converting over to Ford hubs & rotors and Chevy brakes, first! It's cheaper!
Brawler 02-05-2002, 01:26 PM Originally posted by tsm1mt
I use new Grade 8 bolts and new lock-washers - along with some Red loctite.
I can still get the bolts out WHEN I grendade the hub. There usually isn't much left when I do smoke one - I think I finally threw out the lunch bag of small parts from the last one I destroyed.
Hooper just installed his Warn hub conversion kit.
But for $250-ish...
You'll see me converting over to Ford hubs & rotors and Chevy brakes, first! It's cheaper!
What does this do? Can you still use your stock axles? Is the ford an internal hub or external?
tsm1mt 02-05-2002, 01:36 PM Originally posted by Brawler
What does this do? Can you still use your stock axles? Is the ford an internal hub or external?
Ford setup is internal.
Ideally, you swap Chevy knuckles, Chevy caliper bracket, Chevy spindles, Chevy calipers, 2wd Chevy brake hoses (longer) with Chevy or Ford stub-axles, F150 hubs and F150 rotors.
Simple, right? :D
Slick setup if you want to go high-steer..
Brawler 02-05-2002, 01:42 PM Originally posted by tsm1mt
Ford setup is internal.
Ideally, you swap Chevy knuckles, Chevy caliper bracket, Chevy spindles, Chevy calipers, 2wd Chevy brake hoses (longer) with Chevy or Ford stub-axles, F150 hubs and F150 rotors.
Simple, right? :D
Slick setup if you want to go high-steer..
well the one thing i can get cheap is the caliper brackets. The calipers are a dime a dozen and i'm running stainlees steel braided brakelines already. So how difficult is it to come by the spindles and knuckles? What year hubs/rotors/stub?
Scout Dude 02-05-2002, 04:27 PM Originally posted by Brawler
well the one thing i can get cheap is the caliper brackets. The calipers are a dime a dozen and i'm running stainlees steel braided brakelines already. So how difficult is it to come by the spindles and knuckles? What year hubs/rotors/stub?
You might try searching in the general 4x4 section for this. But I think that 73 or 74 until 77 or 78Chevy and Jeep Waggy 44's Have the smaller spindles and flat tops. I had a 74 waggy and it definitely had the small spindles & flat tops. I used 83 ford bronco rotors and bearing hubs and had it set up for 5 on 5.5. :)
Hooper 02-05-2002, 10:53 PM Come on, be cooool. Get the internal splines. Simple, and strong. :D
Almost done with mine. Turns out I wiped out an axle last time out, and a spindle, and a hub, well, basically the front driver side was trashed....
So, i got my axle back tonight (had to have a bit taken off the end) and i should be able to throw it all together tomorrow.
If you don't have any compliations, the hub swap is a snap. you could do the whole thing in under an hour. Probably the hardest part was driving the wheel studs through the new hub. The new hub does not have splines cut into it, so you have to drive the studs through it and carve the splines doing so. Get out the big hammer.
Be done tomorrow. I took LOTS of pictures, of all the old and new hub internals, etc. They sure are pretty. And have a very high Coooool factor.... <g>
Best part is, i can take my passenger side hub, that was in good shape, along on the trail. If, and it is a big if, i were to blow a conversion hub, I could easily slap back on my stock hub and still be in great shape. half hour swap, tops. Not like using parts off some other low life vehicle, then either carrying spares for those, or hoping someone else does.... :P :D
Brawler 02-06-2002, 08:16 AM Originally posted by Hooper
Come on, be cooool. Get the internal splines. Simple, and strong. :D
Almost done with mine. Turns out I wiped out an axle last time out, and a spindle, and a hub, well, basically the front driver side was trashed....
So, i got my axle back tonight (had to have a bit taken off the end) and i should be able to throw it all together tomorrow.
If you don't have any compliations, the hub swap is a snap. you could do the whole thing in under an hour. Probably the hardest part was driving the wheel studs through the new hub. The new hub does not have splines cut into it, so you have to drive the studs through it and carve the splines doing so. Get out the big hammer.
Be done tomorrow. I took LOTS of pictures, of all the old and new hub internals, etc. They sure are pretty. And have a very high Coooool factor.... <g>
Best part is, i can take my passenger side hub, that was in good shape, along on the trail. If, and it is a big if, i were to blow a conversion hub, I could easily slap back on my stock hub and still be in great shape. half hour swap, tops. Not like using parts off some other low life vehicle, then either carrying spares for those, or hoping someone else does.... :P :D
Post some pics if you would.
Hooper 02-06-2002, 03:28 PM Originally posted by Brawler
Post some pics if you would.
About 30 or so, I think. <g> I will be taking film to one hour tomorrow, so I should have pics posted by tomorrow evening.
the actual pics of the hub conversion is pretty straightforward. Just not much to it. What, four or 5 pcs is about all. Slid on the hub, slam in the studs, put the bearings, races, and seals in, put on tab washers and nuts, slide in the hub lock, install two snap rings, put the selector on with 6 or 8 small allen screws, good to go. Start to fishish on assembly, half an hour, tops, and that is being really careful on the race/bearing packing assembly which is exactly the same as on stock hubs.
And they are this cool goldish color.... <g>
I'll post pics tomorrow. Pricey, but at the rate I blow hubs, worth it.
Brawler 02-06-2002, 06:12 PM Originally posted by Hooper
About 30 or so, I think. <g> I will be taking film to one hour tomorrow, so I should have pics posted by tomorrow evening.
the actual pics of the hub conversion is pretty straightforward. Just not much to it. What, four or 5 pcs is about all. Slid on the hub, slam in the studs, put the bearings, races, and seals in, put on tab washers and nuts, slide in the hub lock, install two snap rings, put the selector on with 6 or 8 small allen screws, good to go. Start to fishish on assembly, half an hour, tops, and that is being really careful on the race/bearing packing assembly which is exactly the same as on stock hubs.
And they are this cool goldish color.... <g>
I'll post pics tomorrow. Pricey, but at the rate I blow hubs, worth it.
Thanks, bout how pricey?
Hooper 02-07-2002, 08:12 AM Originally posted by Brawler
Thanks, bout how pricey?
You can get them for $265
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