I know alot of people run YJ springs on their samurais because of the flex and softer ride so I wanted to switch over also. There are alot of kits out there that can be used for the conversion. Right now I have a 5" Rocky Road bolt on SPOA kit. I plan on either running 32 or 33" tires if they will fit. What kits are the best. I have heard that with the TT kit when you try to turn while flexing that you can't turn. I was looking at the kit from Asian Auto Parts of Arizona but that requires alot of welding. Then there is the bolt on kit from RRO. What do you think of these kits. AND, is that all I have to buy is the kit and the springs, or do I need new U bolts and other stuff. How much more lift do you get when you switch to the YJ's. I have heard 1.5" approx. So will that be enough to clear 33" swampers? Thanks alot

there is also www.aftermarket4x4.com for the YJ kit. Seems to be priced a little better than the RRO kit, and you can buy just the front, or just the rear if need be....

I personally prefer the Trail Tough kit......link to website (http://www.trailtough.com)

I also Prefer the TT Kit. You can not Beat the Outstanding Service and Bulletproof Parts. Call Brent NOW!

dont forget that if you do a shackle reversal. wich I believe the kit from Asian Auto Parts of Arizona is. you will need a new front driveline with looong splines.

steering issues with the trail tough kit ? I doubt it if there is then it is probably inherent to all the yj kits.

it is hard to beat TT for customer service.

I have a TT kit and have never regreted buying it. Brent has taken care of all my silly newbie questions and the kit came very complete, I didn't need to add anything.

And about the lift, where did you come up with the 1.5' figure? The TT kit ended up giving me at least 6' of lift and my 33's fit great.

so I can't just buy the spring mounts and stuff or do I have to buy the entire kit. I already have a spoa kit from RRO and all I want to do is add in the leafs. So will the kit I get from TT include everything needed if I wanted to lift it when it was stock. It is already lifted 5", so how much extra will I get with the new springs. Sorry thats what I meant

so I can't just buy the spring mounts and stuff or do I have to buy the entire kit. I already have a spoa kit from RRO and all I want to do is add in the leafs. So will the kit I get from TT include everything needed if I wanted to lift it when it was stock. It is already lifted 5", so how much extra will I get with the new springs. Sorry thats what I meant

they will sell you the complete kit...or you can buy it piece but piece :grinpimp:

The TT kit ended up giving me at least 6' of lift and my 33's fit great.

dude.. with 6' (FEET) of lift 33's fitting is not an issue :shaking: mine only got about 6" :D

so the trial tough kit or the Rocky Road kit ?
On customer service so far TT, got my stuff fast when i could not even get anyone at Rocky Road to pickup

hey zc911,I ordered mine from Rocky Road,and got it in 10 days.Still have to install it though :beer: Guess it's the luck of the draw.

I have the RRO YJ/SPOA kit. I used lifted YJ springs. Weedwacker and I took the RRO kit and hacked it up, then welded the parts to fit my Sammy (versus the bolt-on method).


I re-drilled the spring eyes for added wheelbase (4" worth). I have some work to do to get my shackle angles correct, but it will work. The u-bolts got tossed due to the fact that I have Toy axles and they won't fit. Same goes for the plates.


Looking back, I would have not bought all that shit. I should have spent the time to figure it out and make the parts instead. I suggest you do that.


RRO's customer service sucked big sweaty nuts. They bullshitted me and dicked me around a bunch. It's damn good thing they are in the truck parts business and not the transplant organ business. I'd be dead right now.

where are you from your user name don't say, if you want it done talk to moto here in washington I can give you his # but I'm sure he will post up on this any how.

does the trail tough kit get good flex. Is the shackle reversal kit from Asian Auto Parts better. How much does a new driveshaft cost for the front if I get the shackle reversal. Also will any of the kits clear 33's flexed with my 5" SPOA? thanks

oh my bad. I am in Walnut Creek Cali. I am not a great welder and cannot really make my own stuff so that is out of the question. I am definately going to buy one of these kits. The main factor is flex I guess. I know all of them are good but which one will give me hella flex and not break on me. I don't want big "fangs" hanging down either. Thats why I thought the shackle reversal kit was good.

hey zc911,I ordered mine from Rocky Road,and got it in 10 days.Still have to install it though :beer: Guess it's the luck of the draw.

hey dude our trucks are gonna be almsot the same lol
how do you like the looks of the kit? Beefy and good quality?

so I can't just buy the spring mounts and stuff or do I have to buy the entire kit. I already have a spoa kit from RRO and all I want to do is add in the leafs. So will the kit I get from TT include everything needed if I wanted to lift it when it was stock. It is already lifted 5", so how much extra will I get with the new springs. Sorry thats what I meant

In regards to the TT kit. All of the parts that are listed in the front spring kit are required items. The only thing that are somewhat optional are the ubolt plates. I went from the now defunct Canyon State kit to the TT kit up front. The price savings on not getting the ubolt plates was not worth the savings. And the plates that come from TT are very nice. They fit perfectly whereas my previous plates didn't fit well.

When I went from stock springs to YJ's I think I ended up with about 2 to 3 inches.

If you end up running one of the shackle reversal setups you will have to replace your front driveshaft with a long slip one. With the TT setup you can just run spacers and an extended yoke. The complete kit listed on the TT site should give you a pretty good idea of what you will need. When you install it, I would recommend just getting a set of new ubolts to go with the kit. Then just keep a few of your old ones for trail spares.

The basic list of items you will need are the kit, springs, lower shock mounts, upper shock mounts depending on what you've done already, longer brakelines depending on what you've done already, steering correction (hi-steer is the best way to go), longer shocks, and driveline adjustments.

I have found that the TT setup is actually tucked up pretty nicely up front. In comparison to the CSC that I had on there the front of the springs only sit about 1 inch farther forward.

I'm in Livermore if you want to see how the TT kit is.

does the trail tough kit get good flex. Is the shackle reversal kit from Asian Auto Parts better. How much does a new driveshaft cost for the front if I get the shackle reversal. Also will any of the kits clear 33's flexed with my 5" SPOA? thanks

From what I've seen both the TT missing link and the s/r kits get about the same amount of flex. The differences are pretty much negligible. A new long travel driveshaft will cost probably somewhere in the $200-300 range. I would check with Jesse at High Angle Driveline if you go that route.

Either kit will give you enough flex to run 33's. With the way that shackle reversals work you will get rubbing at the firewall/fenderwell when you are compressing one side and turning. The TT setup does not have that issue since the tire moves forward as it moves up.

In the later pictures on my site (www.rokzuki.com) you can see how 34's work on mine with a 4.5" spring over and 6 leaf YJ's all around.

awesome rig dude. That is exactly what I want mine to look like. I would love to see your rig sometime and the TT setup. So the YJ springs are usually 4 leafs? Therefore you have 6 leafs for more lift? WOW great job. thanks for all the info. I guess you like your TT kit.

the reason I was looking at the kit from Asian Auto parts is because I know Geoff Beasley, the owner of this rig. And by looking at the flex in these pics makes me want to just go get one. What do you think
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/reviews/cssuspension.htm

the reason I was looking at the kit from Asian Auto parts is because I know Geoff Beasley, the owner of this rig. And by looking at the flex in these pics makes me want to just go get one. What do you think
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/reviews/cssuspension.htm

I know Goeff also. Haven't heard anything about him in a while though. I used to have the same setup as him. That same review was what settled it for me. At the time it was the only YJ setup out there.

I ended up swapping over to the TT front end for a couple reasons. First was that my Chevy shackles and bushings were shot. It was going to cost almost as much to switch over to a standard shackle and hanger setup as opposed to the TT front kit. The biggest problem is that I was getting too much rubbing when the suspension was compressed. The TT setup doesn't have that problem.

The normal YJ spring packs are 4 or 5 leaf packs depending on the configuration of the Jeep they came off of (I think it was based on the engine size). I've taken my 5 leaf packs and added a second long leaf to keep from over compressing them. The extra leaf didn't really add much in terms of height. I've got a bunch of extra leafs if you want to add to your springpacks.

hey dude our trucks are gonna be almsot the same lol
how do you like the looks of the kit? Beefy and good quality?

yep-it LOOKS good,Ill see how it is after i get it on

I've Had The Trail Tough Kit For A Couple Of Years & I Run 33 Inch Mud Terrains No Problem. I Bought My Kit From Rocky Road But I Would Go Direct To Trail Tough

hey thanks alot for the info. Actually I am in the process of buying tires also. I will be going mostly on trails and rocks and some mud but I want a tire that won't let me down. Geoff recommended the swamper SSR. I know alot of people run other stuff so what do you guys think I should do. I want to either go 32 or 33". Which size should I do also. Right now I only have a 5" Rocky Road spoa. So will 33's fit for now until I get the YJ springs. thanks

I've Had The Trail Tough Kit For A Couple Of Years & I Run 33 Inch Mud Terrains No Problem. I Bought My Kit From Rocky Road But I Would Go Direct To Trail Tough :confused: :confused:

yeah I talk to Geoff when I am at 4wheelparts in Oakland. He is alot of help. He said that alot of people love their TT kit but he thinks that the one from Asian Auto Parts of Arizona is better. Thats why I am stuck. But hearing from you guys how much you love your kits helps alot and makes me want to get the TT kit.

So Geoff, is still passing zuk info since he has converted to an all toy freak. Just wait he will get his just punishment and like it.

yeah I talk to Geoff when I am at 4wheelparts in Oakland. He is alot of help. He said that alot of people love their TT kit but he thinks that the one from Asian Auto Parts of Arizona is better. Thats why I am stuck. But hearing from you guys how much you love your kits helps alot and makes me want to get the TT kit.

I'm not sure how the AAPoA setup handles the front shackles but that was the only thing I didn't care for about the CSC kit. The bushings in the shackles take a lot of abuse and eventually fail. I know some of the guys here have replaced the Chevy shackles with standard 'H' shaped shackles and cut the stock hangers off and welded on new hangers.

The biggest drawback of the s/r setup is that you have to put a long travel shaft on there which causes the conversion cost to increase more than the TT setup.

You will be happy with either setup. The front shackle/shackle reversal has a following on each side. There are people who swear by each setup over the other.

yeah I talk to Geoff when I am at 4wheelparts in Oakland. He is alot of help. He said that alot of people love their TT kit but he thinks that the one from Asian Auto Parts of Arizona is better. Thats why I am stuck. But hearing from you guys how much you love your kits helps alot and makes me want to get the TT kit.

I was in the the same boat as you and went with TT due to the customer service and I have heard from several people about pinion problems(when flexed hard), driveshaft issues and bending pieces of the kit in the S/R kit. My TT kit flexes great, infact I just went down to moab last month and flexed a 37" rock without lifting a tire , sorry no picture(this is with 31"tires on 2.5" backspaced 8'rims with 1"wheelspacers which does provide some extra leverage..also with only 15psi of pressure in the tires)...one of the guys that was with me tha thad the S/R kit tried to flex the same rock and damn near tipped his sammy over and he had 35" tires (also aired down)..infact he lifted his rear in the air a good 15" and had to back off. I have absolutly zero road handling problems and this is my daily driver. People complain about unloading of m/l's, but brent at trail tough can explain how this is a myth..infact I have had mine on a 73degree incline and mine did not unload. If you want happiness in your zuk, stick to trail tough for your YJ suspension

well i made my choice and went with the rocky road kit.
Customer service was good no complaints at all

Also decied to go with toyots axles :)

oh man so much money forked out over the last couple days.

But it shoudla ll be worth it :smokin:

Allt ahts left to do is isntall it and messure for shocklengths and order up what ever length Bilsteins i will need :D

OK, I was the 'other guy with SR' flexing the 37" rock in Moab with Shmoesmith, and here's a few more observations:

1) My tire pressure was 10 psi. I consider this between street and trail. Real trail pressure for radial 35s on a zuk is more like 7-8psi. Of course it would flex better at lower pressures.
2) I don't believe the passenger side rear tire was 15" in the air. I think it was more like 5".
3) I use a 5 leaf YJ spring in the front and a hybrid 6 leaf in the rear for extra resistance to wrapping. A 6 leaf rear spring will not flex as well as a YJ 5 or 4 leaf.
4) My front bumpstops are currently set high to limit my up travel so my shocks don't bottom out. Need to raise the upper shock mount another 1.5-2". This should give me more up travel and flex.

My excuses aside, given the same axle, spring, and tire setup, the zuk with missing links will outflex the zuk without just because of the extra droop (and assuming the DS do not bind). The SR setup rig may have a better front approach angle and handle smacking rocks better. There are pros and cons to both.

I just recently bought the Asian Auto parts kit. Great kit, but the instructions are lousy, i haven't wheeled it yet because i'm trying to fix a couple of mistakes made because of inadequate info in the instructions.

TT all the way its a eazy bolt on kit I went yj in the frt 1/4 elp in rear lotsoflexx :flipoff2:

alright, thanks for all the info. So they both have their pros and cons so is the better approach angle better than more flex? I have not wheeled a ton but I would want both.....so what do I do. Doesn't the TT kit have huge shackles in the front that stick down like fangs. The TT kit is fully bolt on? I am not an expert welder so that might be what sells it for me. Thanks again. Oh, and which leaf springs should I get: 4, 5 or 6 leafs?

I would love it if I could see some poser pics that people have with these different kits. Post some that have the most flex in the picture and that would be awesome. thanks

the reason I was looking at the kit from Asian Auto parts is because I know Geoff Beasley, the owner of this rig. And by looking at the flex in these pics makes me want to just go get one. What do you think
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/reviews/cssuspension.htm


The funny thing about Geoff and his recomending of the shackle reversal is this old post from geoff. from before when he had the rears up front and the cj springs rear. at the time the new hi teck suspension. that or the calmini shackle reversal.

In addition to Glenn's excellent description of the springs' and shackles' response to the "braking torque" of the axle, there is another reason why a Shackle Reversal configuration encourages brake dive. In addition to Glenn's excellent description of the springs' and shackles' response to the "braking torque" of the axle, there is another reason why a Shackle Reversal configuration encourages brake dive.

With a standard shackle orientation, a spring with positive arch will elongate as it compresses (flattens). As the vehicle brakes to a stop, the front suspension settles as the body pushes down on the front springs, elongates them, and pushes the shackles forward. With the "upward" movement of the axle in relation to the body, the axle also moves forward a bit. This "fights" the brake dive not only by "pushing back" on the body, but also by increasing the wheelbase a bit. This is why a Shackle Reversal allows the axle to "roll" over bumps and smooth out the ride; the axle can move rearward as it goes up and over a bump, as opposed to moving forward as it goes up and over the bump, which causes a bit more feedback to the occupants.

With a Shackle Reversal, the spring works the same way, but the "hard" attachment point is at the front of the vehicle, and the shackle (and axle) must move rearward as the suspension compresses. Thus, the wheelbase shortens as you stomp the brakes, and the axle moves upward and rearward as the body moves forward "over" the axle. Rather than working against the brake dive, the Shackle Reversal configuration encourages it. Any amount of weight transfer not only reduces the effectiveness of the brakes (by unloading the rear wheels the tires not only have less grip on the ground, but they prematurely lock up) and hurt the handling. Combine that braking inertia with a sharp turn (such as in an emergency avoidance maneuver) and you're just asking to lift the inside rear wheel off the ground, or just roll the vehicle over completely. Combine that with the "braking torque's" effect on the spring wrap, and I definitely don't consider that to be a safe modification. And that's why there are laws in some places against Shackle Reversals.

I have driven a stiff Calmini Shackle Reversed (5" Combo Kit) equipped Samurai on the road, and compared to my mushy-suspensioned standard-shackled rig, the amount of brake dive was not only surprising in comparison, but downright scary. I suppose it's something you could get used to, but as someone who's not used to that much brake dive, it's scary looking right down at the pavement in front of you anytime you have to really use the brakes. I kept screaming to myself in my mind, "Don't turn the wheel! Don't turn the wheel!"

Off-road, I wouldn't use a S/R either. Not only does it limit your tire size (by the nature of the axle moving rearward as you stuff a tire) but it decreases stability. On a steep off-camber, downhill section of trail, don't tap the brakes or the downhill front tire will stuff into the fenderwell much easier and tip you right up, whereas a standard-shackle configuration will try to fight that instability by the nature of its geometry.

So as per Glenn's advice, Shackle Reversals aren't that safe on the road. He knows what he's talking about; after all, he designs suspensions for Jeeps and Samurais! One may use a S/R off-road, but let me stand and park uphill from the rig so that I don't get crushed when it tip over.

--Geoff Beasley



______________________________________________
You don't need horsepower when you have gears. . . .

-- Geoff

wow thanks for that. I guess I will have to give Geoff crap next time I see him. I wonder why he switched over to SR then?

alright, thanks for all the info. So they both have their pros and cons so is the better approach angle better than more flex? I have not wheeled a ton but I would want both.....so what do I do. Doesn't the TT kit have huge shackles in the front that stick down like fangs. The TT kit is fully bolt on? I am not an expert welder so that might be what sells it for me. Thanks again. Oh, and which leaf springs should I get: 4, 5 or 6 leafs?

The TT kit doesn't really hang down any more than the CSC s/r kit that I used to run. Holding them side by side the difference in the spring mount position is that the TT kit sets the eye of the spring approx. 1 inch farther forward than the CSC kit. The height is no different though. With the double shackle, the main shackle was actually able to be pretty short without compromising anything.

Chances are you will want to run at least 5 leaf front and rear. I found that I bottomed out in the rear way too easy when I was only running a 4 leaf pack.

Just run what you've got for now. Be sure to leave the u-bolts long in case you increase the number of leafs you decide to run. I've got extra leafs laying around if you need to increase the number in your packs.

The TT kit doesn't really hang down any more than the CSC s/r kit that I used to run. Holding them side by side the difference in the spring mount position is that the TT kit sets the eye of the spring approx. 1 inch farther forward than the CSC kit. The height is no different though. With the double shackle, the main shackle was actually able to be pretty short without compromising anything.

Chances are you will want to run at least 5 leaf front and rear. I found that I bottomed out in the rear way too easy when I was only running a 4 leaf pack.

Just run what you've got for now. Be sure to leave the u-bolts long in case you increase the number of leafs you decide to run. I've got extra leafs laying around if you need to increase the number in your packs.





The AAPA kits have changed a bit since the CSC days. Fred and Jimmy pretty much let Dave(AAPA) do with the kit as he pleased. Red90runner, contact Dave for any new changes to the kit, might help w/ the decision making process.


just my .02 ...

I did a lot of research on many boards and opted for the TT kit as well.. Dealing with Brent was a pleasure, I couldn't believe how fast I got the boxes delivered (less than a week) :smokin:
The quality of the parts is superb, and I can't wait to slap 'em on... as soon as the rig is insured... they're going on :grinpimp:
zc911, if you wanna take a looksee before they go on.. LMK ;)

I bought the RRO YJ kit because I have an aftermarket ARB bumper and with the TT kit it doesn't fit. I had no problems with the install and I love the kit.

I talked to Geoff today and he said that he loves his shackle reversal kit. Its good cause you can just place a tire next to the rock and it goes right up and it moves backwards and doesn't work against you. He loves his kit and highly recommends it. He said that when you are highly articulated and the axle is drooped, you have no steering. Other people said they haven't had this problem but I don't know. Tell me what you guys think

I did a lot of research on many boards and opted for the TT kit as well.. Dealing with Brent was a pleasure, I couldn't believe how fast I got the boxes delivered (less than a week) :smokin:
The quality of the parts is superb, and I can't wait to slap 'em on... as soon as the rig is insured... they're going on :grinpimp:
zc911, if you wanna take a looksee before they go on.. LMK ;)

thats awsome dude, now buy my locker and 4.62s so you can actually go offroad with it :flipoff2:
I'll have breeze crossover FS too. This was the BEST mod i ever did.

We will have to compare when the trucks are done

I just got my new tires. 33x12.50x15 super swamper SSR's. They are mounted on 15x8 custom backspaced wheels. I think 2 or 2.5 inch backspaced. They are huge. I don't think they willl fit with my 5" Rocky Road SPOA kit. So I might need to do some cutting. Do you think I should spend the extra money and go with the YJ springs now or do shackles and then go YJ's later? thanks alot

I agree with most here that TT is the way to go for the same reasons they listed. My brother had a real bad expirence with Asian of AZ, and RR is usually a time consuming proposition. However, your choice of aftermarket bumpers is greater with the RR kit. :)

Here's flex at a 4X4 show, with my old YJ's. Can set a tire on a 55 gallon drum. :cool2:

I am definately going to have to do the YJ springs now because I NEED more lift to clear my new meats. How much more lift will I get with either kit. I have a 5" SPOA kit from RRO, and I am thinking I will be needing probably 8" of lift so I can get flex with my new tires (3" + 5" SPOA). Will the lifts provide that much more lift. Can I get the leafs and then get a little longer shackles too. WHAT SHOULD I DO?

What size tires did you say you have now?
I run 36" Iroks (measure about 37")

if anyone wants a Rocky Road kit please PM me, i have a chance at a smoking deal on something else and it;s already setup for YJs
i ordered the kit 4 days early :mad3:
i'll include free shipping , please PM me if you are intersted

Red90runner I PMed Ya, Robert :)

I looked at all the kits and talked to the people selling them. To me it important to have good tech and that only comes from experience.

Brent knows what he is talking about and doesn't mind sharing his knowledge. I like his kit and have beat it pretty good with no probs.

I am sure the other vendors know there stuff, but I asked alot of questions and Brent had good advise that worked the first time.

Look in 4wd&SUM Nov pg 99. I have never been to Moab but looks like I will make a trip after this article.

I Installed My Tt Kit In 2 Evenings By Myself. No Welding. Some Drilling. I Already Had Toyota Power Steering And A Z-link And Had Some Real Steering Issues After The Install. Went With Rro Ott Steering And It Solved All The Problems. Trail Tough Also Has A Shock Chart On The Web Site.

thanks riverzuk. I am definately going to do the TT kit. I already have the SPOA from RRO so all I need are the hangers and plates and stuff with the kit. How do I know, when I am buying springs that they are good and have not been beaten. My stock springs are really old and are basically flat so I only have about 4" of lift instead of 5" as it Rocky Road says I should have gotten. Approximately how much more lift will I get with the YJ's over what I have now and can I fit my 33" tires. Thanks alot for answering all my questions.

are new shocks mounts and longer shocks absolutely necessary for this kit. I have the rear upper shock mount from RRO and the stock ones on the bottom and up front. Do I need new ones when I buy the kit from TT. Thanks

YJ's give you 1 1/2 - 2" more lift, plenty for 33's. Yes, you need longer shocks for YJ's, because you'll gain lots of travel. :smokin:

what kind of shocks should I go with. Adjustable or no? I heard bad things about Ranchos 0n samurais. I have doetsch tech ones now.

so can I still use my RRO rear upper shock mount or is it better to use the stock upper mounting positions. Also, a guy is selling leaf springs: 2-4l leaf pack and 2- 5 leaf pack. Should I get extra leafs for the 4 leaf packs or just run those up front w/ no worries. If I do use just the 4 leaf packs, will I get less lift than if I ran 5? sorry about all my newbie ?'s.
-Pat

so can I still use my RRO rear upper shock mount or is it better to use the stock upper mounting positions. Also, a guy is selling leaf springs: 2-4l leaf pack and 2- 5 leaf pack. Should I get extra leafs for the 4 leaf packs or just run those up front w/ no worries. If I do use just the 4 leaf packs, will I get less lift than if I ran 5? sorry about all my newbie ?'s.
-Pat
i gotta bring this thread back to life. a lot of good information here, and a lot of answers to questions i have as well. i would like to see if anybody can answer red90runner's last few posts. or maybe red found the answers on his own? hey, red, what have you learned in the months past?

what kind of shocks should I go with. Adjustable or no? I heard bad things about Ranchos 0n samurais. I have doetsch tech ones now.
DTs are the way to go

so can I still use my RRO rear upper shock mount or is it better to use the stock upper mounting positions. Also, a guy is selling leaf springs: 2-4l leaf pack and 2- 5 leaf pack. Should I get extra leafs for the 4 leaf packs or just run those up front w/ no worries. If I do use just the 4 leaf packs, will I get less lift than if I ran 5? sorry about all my newbie ?'s.
-Pat
yes on the rear upper shock mount ... try the 4 leaf packs in the front, but i have a feeling you'll end up adding a leaf to them in the end.

are new shocks mounts and longer shocks absolutely necessary for this kit.
if you want to fully realize the benefits of the longer, flexier springs, yes.


i gotta bring this thread back to life. a lot of good information here, and a lot of answers to questions i have as well. i would like to see if anybody can answer red90runner's last few posts. or maybe red found the answers on his own? hey, red, what have you learned in the months past?
that help out any :D

Recently bought a sprung over zuk. First experience with zuk and am going thru the same research trying to make decisions on yj kit. I bought a rear tracker axle with 5.14 gears, lockrite, and a front stock axle with the 5.14 tracker gears and lockrite. Front axle is sami and already has yj leafs mounted. Trying to do this on a budget with no welding skills. Bought the SKY rear system to convert rear axle from stock coil over to yj. Bought a rear traction bar off ebay to try to stabilize rear and prolong leaf and gear life. And am trying to decide on front yj kit now. Since I dont need the mounts for the yj leafs in front I thought I would buy the needed components on the tt system. I have rancho 9000 shocks and hoped to use those. I have almost gathered all parts nothing is installed, so any comments and or criticisms would be appreciated.

that help out any :D

zukanuba, are you running 5 leaf yj's yourself? what do you think about a 4 leaf pack with an add a leaf to give a little more positive arch?
i have a friend who is giving me his dt shocks that he bought for his toy and never installed. they will fit my rear, but i have been thinking about rancho adjustables for the front so i can stiffen the compression damping for reduced body roll on the road. my sammy gets driven every day, and the last thing i want is to ruin my ride with m/l's or s/r driveability issues. maybe the ranchos on stiff is a band-aid. man, i gotta get to work on that qd swaybar if i'm gonna funkify my suspension any more...

Wow I posted this up awhile ago. yeah I figured most of the stuff out but with much help from fellow pirate4x4 members as well. As far as the shocks and mounts. I ended up going with the DT's and the ford shock towers in front and stocks in the rear. I did this because it was stiffer and I like it stiffer while driving on the street. The YJ's I mixed and matched a 4leaf pack and added in a cut main leaf to make it a 5 leaf pack for the front. I did the same thing for the rear but started with a 5 leaf pack and created a 6 leaf pack. It turned out really nice for driving on the street while still being flexy off road. I'll post pics later.
-Pat

I have the TT kit and have had no problems it is a kickass kit

First, do yourself a big favor and stay as far away from RRO as you can,Glenn is just a piss poor ass excuse for a numb nut. This is a warning and not any advice. You will be glad you did in the long run. Second take off any thing that has to do with RRO off your zuk. Third call Brent at Trail Tough order all you need from him and set it up according to his specs,do a half as job and the kit will not perform to its potential. and you will end up with bugs that will haunt you. Just use and do what Brent tells ya and you will be one happy camper in the long run. The shackles that stick out will not be a problem with approach angles. You will be very happy with the flex that the kit offers. Glenn,his wife Jennifer has alot to learn. The way they treat people and the way do business. Mickey Mouse is an understatement and I am tring to be very polite here.

heres $.02

I just did the whole YJ kit from TT. missing links front and rear. previous i had purchased ford shock towers and put em on so really all I needed were the mounts and springs.

After a long talk with TT, it was found I would need 5 leaf packs front and rear. If ya need shocks/towers anything--now would be the time and TT would be the place, they know what works and what youll need. I honestly wouldnt go lookin to save a dollar or two on shocks that your not sure will work when ya can get everything in one big old HEAVY box.

After my install, I'm still blown away with the flex--holy geese my Sami flexes, you will not be dissapointed.

I do have tire/fender contact at full stuff w/33x12.50 Truxus At's on 15x8 rims. The rub isnt a huge problem yet, although I coud see needing to kill the fender flairs later.

My front end kicked out a little bit giving a longer wheelbase which I didnt expect however I like the way it looks.

For on road driving, Its alot more smooth than the trailmaster 3" springs I had in SPOA. The vehicle does sway alot more in corners, but not enough to become a huge concern to me. I have yet to have a missing link to open up on me when it is unwanted, athough I havent drivin it long. My impression is as long as you arent doin soughnuts in the parking lot, then ya wont have any problems with the links. Also the front links are mandatory according to TT which I could probably bypass, however it wouldnt be worth my time or effort.

All in all--this is a very complete kit, you will not be dissapointed with any aspect. As for springs Id get 5 leafs all around if possible. finally if you want anything else to compliment the lift (shocks) get em from TT, they will get ya the shocks that fit!! and save ya a whole load of time.

zukanuba, are you running 5 leaf yj's yourself? what do you think about a 4 leaf pack with an add a leaf to give a little more positive arch?
i have a friend who is giving me his dt shocks that he bought for his toy and never installed. they will fit my rear, but i have been thinking about rancho adjustables for the front so i can stiffen the compression damping for reduced body roll on the road. my sammy gets driven every day, and the last thing i want is to ruin my ride with m/l's or s/r driveability issues. maybe the ranchos on stiff is a band-aid. man, i gotta get to work on that qd swaybar if i'm gonna funkify my suspension any more...
i'm running bastard mismatch packs. the main leaf in my packs is from a set of bds 3" lift springs with the rest of the pack made up of stock yj leafs. the stock yjs were just too soft. right now, i have 5 leaf rears and 4 leaf fronts, but i'll be adding a leaf to the fronts the next time i tear into it.

anybody running the SKY rear kit with a Toy rear...

heres trail tough's YJ kit on my sammi.

anyone running non-missing links? about how long are the shackles in a setup like that?

red90runner, that looks pretty good. you using aftermarket driveshafts? how about the need for a panhard bar?
i've been considering this heavily, and i think i may go with rubicon express 1.5 or 2.5 springs. they are on sale at 4wheelparts with free shipping. i can buy 4 used stock springs for $75, but they all look pretty flat. might as well do it right, i'm tired of dicking around with my stock spoa.
i am also pondering a lockout for the missing links. i know how it can be done, i just need to fab it up and give it a try. you know the game: get out, lock hubs, dial down shocks, disco swaybar, unpin m/l's... might be faster than unloading from a trailer :)

what size tires you planning on running. I would not do lifted YJ's if I were you. Definately stick with the stock YJ's. The flatter the spring the better the flex you will get. As far as driveshafts, they are stock with spacers front and rear. Stock axles as well with lock rights. I love my setup. Call up Brent at Trail Tough and he will hook you up. Definately the best company to deal with.
edit: I don't have a panhard bar either

currently running 31's, going up to 33x12-ish w/2" backspacing after the lift is done. how big are your spacers? i have 1" front and rear, pinion and tcase, so i'm 2" longer overall and need more with my simple spoa/shackle setup. is your rig a daily driver?

I have no spacers, just 2.5" backspacing on the wheels. No my rig is not a daily driver but it could be. It is too slow in my opinion, I would probably put in a sidekick engine if I were to daily drive it.
-Pat

does the trail tough kit get good flex. Is the shackle reversal kit from Asian Auto Parts better. How much does a new driveshaft cost for the front if I get the shackle reversal. Also will any of the kits clear 33's flexed with my 5" SPOA? thanks

The Asian auto parts kit is a pretty good kit, they suck for support though, so if you aren't a competent welder and fabricator that can do it on your own go with the trail tough kit. The long spline front driveshaft wasn't too expensive, i think mine was just shy of 360 with shipping, one good thing about this kit is that i max out my rear flex, and roll over long before the front even comes close.

hey guys, what you think about this fab kit..?
I'm planning to have this done on mine.

.. "J" shackles in front. (similar to missing link) with holes to bolt a tow bar.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/dyevest/Dscf0026.jpg
..rear hanger.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/dyevest/Dscf0025.jpg

The Asian auto parts kit is a pretty good kit, they suck for support though, so if you aren't a competent welder and fabricator that can do it on your own go with the trail tough kit. The long spline front driveshaft wasn't too expensive, i think mine was just shy of 360 with shipping, one good thing about this kit is that i max out my rear flex, and roll over long before the front even comes close.

Can I see some pics of your setup maxed flexed out? I am glad I did the TT kit for ease of installation but I like the crazy flex you get with the shackle reversal.

hey guys, what you think about this fab kit..?
I'm planning to have this done on mine.

.. "J" shackles in front. (similar to missing link) with holes to bolt a tow bar.

man... that's funky. but not as funky as those rims! :p do you feel the need to weld a piece of bracing in that shackle? even though it is thick in the middle, i'm sure it could bend at the narrower ends. that is a unique choice for towbar mount points.