Cliff,

I just noticed in your sig line, that your pans are remarkably like what I'm considering for a drivetrain.

that is 500ci, Th350, OR doubler, D60 front, shaved 14 FF rear.

Just one question - why the Th350 and not a TH400 (I just read in JP that the Th400 will fit the 500 nicely).

Also - why did you choose a 14 bolt?

Seeing as how he ain't online right now...I'll try to answer for him. (I am guessing though...)

I think that he is using the 350 and 14 bolt from his blazer that he gutted.

I can tell you that I went 14 bolt because it saved me hundreds of dollars. I really wanted a rear 60 in the 62-64" WMS range but even the ones that are already that wide need the spindle cut off and bored out or new ones welded on. Then you need new shafts, and probably gears...and locker etc. I got mine for the price of a P-N-P axle and it already has 4.56's (common gear ratios for dualies) I'll be welding the spiders to make my 14 bolt spool:)

I agree with scout dude. If I was running 1-ton stuff I would look for a 14 bolt. They are easier to find and also have bigger shafts. this means initial purchase is less and I don't have to do a bunch of work and $$$ to get an axle as strong as a 14 bolt. Look at what some of these guys have done as far as shaving :eek: and the 14 bolt don't look all bad. (I REALLY dig what lake rat did)

Sounds good - I'm all for not having to do more work than necessary.

It's funny - some of us get stuck with the label "polishing a turd" when we talk of building up a D44.

But with all the posts on boring spindles and such, as the bar raises a notch, one could make the same observation about a 60:eek:

Originally posted by BillaVista
Cliff,

I just noticed in your sig line, that your pans are remarkably like what I'm considering for a drivetrain.

that is 500ci, Th350, OR doubler, D60 front, shaved 14 FF rear.

Just one question - why the Th350 and not a TH400 (I just read in JP that the Th400 will fit the 500 nicely).

Also - why did you choose a 14 bolt?

WHY:
The caddy engine? well I think that's obvious. Can you say torque at Very Low RPM's. IE: controllable power, which actually negates the need for a Doubler (So I may not run one)

Umm 14bolt, yeah cause It was in my blazer, but I tell ya what I'd get another one if I had to, as a matter of fact I have had to, when I did a poor gear swap. They're super beefy and can be shaved for as much GC as a D60.

I actually don't think a D60 is in the works for quite a while. I got a line on a housing that I'm gonna take my time to build over the next couple YEARS :eek: But with the CTM U-joints and my "soft pedal" wheelin' style I think my D44 will last quite awhile.

The real question:

Why I picked a Th350 over a TH400.

Honestly I'd like to have a 400, but I don't. A lot of people say a 350 won't last behind a Caddy 500, But I've ran 'em that way for years.

A 400 doesn't FIT any better than a 350. They both must be a B.O.P. bolt pattern is all. The one I have right now isn't though, so I plan to buy/build the adapter, I think one can be had for $150.00

If you contact CMD or Maximum torque Development they'll (they used to anyway) charge you around $300 but I was looking through summit and found an adapter for buick to chevy that I belive will work just fine For $150

Anyway hope this helps you. PS: If you run a caddy engine and build it for torque you DEFINITELY DON'T need a ORD doubler.

ATTN: Cliffhanger........You might wanna check with "Jeg's" they have the BOP adapter too. I looked into this when I did my BB in my X-cab... :D :D

Phone # 1-800-345-4545 :beer: :beer:

Originally posted by Shaker
ATTN: Cliffhanger........You might wanna check with "Jeg's" they have the BOP adapter too. I looked into this when I did my BB in my X-cab... :D :D

Phone # 1-800-345-4545 :beer: :beer:

Thanks I'll do that.

Thanks Cliffhanger...great input, I 'preciate the help.

As to the 500 plus doubler.....need, maybe not, but want? Definately !

If I've learned anything over the last few years...it's the same lesson everyone else learns...best to do it once and do it right. Of course you can tell a newbie that but he still has to learn it for himself. I have learned (I think?)

If I ever win the lottery and get to build my dream, I'm only doing it once...so why not:D

BillaVista,

Are you planning to swap this drivetrain into your XJ? If so what, mods do you plan for your unibody? I'm no engineer, but I've heard of lots of people having stress problems with a stock drivetrain. Just imagine the effects of a big block torque, and weight. Just curious.

Are you planning to swap this drivetrain into your XJ?

Good grief no:eek: Well, not unless I just weld the Xj body on to the frame of whatever I do use to hold the drivetrain.

Seriously...I'm a bit sick and tired of the rolling beer can on wheels (XJ unibody).

All of this is just a paper exercise at present. The idea being to formulate a plan, so that I can watch the want ads patiently for the right deals.

I'm starting with the drivetrain up, and whatever it fits into is of secondary importance...maybe even a full tube custom chasis...who knows.

And while I watch the bargain hunter I can wheel my XJ - it is pretty fun and capable.....just not the ultimate, not by a long shot.