I read the write up on ctm joints and then later wondered? How much do those alloy axles cost. Not cheaper than stock joints, so why would one rather break the axles instead of the u-joints?
Are the axles warranteed for life?
Shaggy

yes they have a no questions asked warranty so spend the $$$ up front if possible

Who has a no question asked warranty? I just checked the Warn site and thier axles are warrantied unless damaged by means of a broken u-joint. THats actually pretty cool, cause if you have the CTM's in, then your front axles and u-joints would both be warrantied. With Warn or Moser axles and CTM joints, where would the next weak link be?
Shaggy

Originally posted by CJ-5shaggy
I read the write up on ctm joints and then later wondered? How much do those alloy axles cost. Not cheaper than stock joints, so why would one rather break the axles instead of the u-joints?
Are the axles warranteed for life?
Shaggy

With a stock axle, a breaking U-joint will usually take out one or both (inner and outer) of your shafts when it blows. Better not to break anything at all.

Originally posted by CJ-5shaggy
Who has a no question asked warranty? I just checked the Warn site and thier axles are warrantied unless damaged by means of a broken u-joint. THats actually pretty cool, cause if you have the CTM's in, then your front axles and u-joints would both be warrantied. With Warn or Moser axles and CTM joints, where would the next weak link be?
Shaggy

I hear tell that some distributors (drivetrain warehouse or something like that) will offer the 'no questions asked' warranty on Warn shafts. Warn will ask lots of questions...

Jake

I just ordered my warn shafts yesterday from DriveTrainDirect, $549.00 with free shipping for the shafts and joints.They have a lifetime warranty as well as a no question asked, anything do to ujoint failure or otherwise they will warranty the shafts.. So any breakage do to the CTM's will be covered cause it will look like u joint failure, if the CTM's assrape your shafts.. So all in all its worth getting the shafts and CTM's they are both warrantied for life so this is possibly the only shafts and u-joints you'll will ever have to buy..

Oh if you are gonna order from DriveTrainDirect ask to speak with Dennis, everybody else there is a fawking idiot, and the other guy I spoke to there was trying to charge me over $600 bucks for the shafts not including shipping.... Make sure you say you saw there ad in the Mag for $549 w/ free shipping.....

Are the warn shafts a custom length? I assume the $549 is for all 4 pieces (2 inner & 2 outer), and how much do CTM's run :eek:

-Mel

To get Warn shafts in custom lengths you have to go through Dutchman.

Oh yeah, and the CTM's will run you about $300

What is the reason that everyone is saying to get the Warn shafts. Will the CTM's not work with Mosers? I just got Moser shafts and am wondering if I'm shit out of luck if I want to get the CTM joints. Also, what do custom shafts from Warn cost?

Thanks, Phil:usa:

Originally posted by TJpwr
What is the reason that everyone is saying to get the Warn shafts. Will the CTM's not work with Mosers? I just got Moser shafts and am wondering if I'm shit out of luck if I want to get the CTM joints. Also, what do custom shafts from Warn cost?

Thanks, Phil:usa:

As I understand it the warn shafts are the only ones that are hardened in the yoke area and 4340 chrome-moly (except maybe the new superior). Other brands are made of a weaker material and only hardened in the shaft area.

What is the reason that everyone is saying to get the Warn shafts. Will the CTM's not work with Mosers? I just got Moser shafts and am wondering if I'm shit out of luck if I want to get the CTM joints. Also, what do custom shafts from Warn cost?

I have CTMs on a Jeep with warn shafts and also on a Jeep with Moser shafts. I have yet to see a Moser yolk fail.:flipoff2: Either one will work fine, the yolk on the Moser has more material than the warn.

Warn shafts are thru-hardened, and Moser shafts are induction hardened. The moser shafts therefore have a softer core which gives them a longer fatigue life, but leaves them more susceptible to breaking during a one time overload. The moser's will be better then a spicer axle, but in imo they fall short of the Warn's in terms of strength in our application.

Warn shafts are thru-hardened, and Moser shafts are induction hardened. The moser shafts therefore have a softer core which gives them a longer fatigue life, but leaves them more susceptible to breaking during a one time overload. The moser's will be better then a spicer axle, but in imo they fall short of the Warn's in terms of strength in our application.

Allrighty then.:cool:

:flipoff2:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by LOS-YJ
[B]I just ordered my warn shafts yesterday from DriveTrainDirect, $549.00 with free shipping for the shafts and joints.They have a lifetime warranty as well as a no question asked, anything do to ujoint failure or otherwise they will warranty the shafts.. So any breakage do to the CTM's will be covered cause it will look like u joint failure, if the CTM's assrape your shafts.. So all in all its worth getting the shafts and CTM's they are both warrantied for life so this is possibly the only shafts and u-joints you'll will ever have to buy.. LOS-YJ

Warn axle shafts have proven more robust than stock axles and will normally survive a u-joint failure. Warn high-strength axles are warrantied for the life of the original owner against all manufacturer's defects. However, because of individual driving styles, Warn will not warranty damaged axles yokes that were the result of a U-joint failure.
http://www.warn.com/InternetHome/
I'll have to look into the no questions asked thing, cause I don't see it. But like Jakester said, its possible that some distributors do.
Shaggy

Originally posted by TJpwr
What is the reason that everyone is saying to get the Warn shafts. Will the CTM's not work with Mosers? I just got Moser shafts and am wondering if I'm shit out of luck if I want to get the CTM joints. Also, what do custom shafts from Warn cost?

Thanks, Phil:usa:

Because Mr. Warn lives on prune hill in Camas, Washington about 15 blocks from my house. I should support local businesses shouldn't I. :flipoff2: :rasta:
Shaggy

Yes you should.

I on the other hand am going to try the CTM's with BRAN NEW spicer inner and outters.

Then we will know what is stronger the chicken or the egg. :D

Originally posted by BellyUp
Yes you should.

I on the other hand am going to try the CTM's with BRAN NEW spicer inner and outters.

Then we will know what is stronger the chicken or the egg. :D

You will need to modify the stock spicers to accept a full circle clip.

Originally posted by CJ-5shaggy

I'll have to look into the no questions asked thing, cause I don't see it. But like Jakester said, its possible that some distributors do.
Shaggy [/B]



Drivetrain Warehouse has the Exclusive "No Questions Asked" Lifetime Warranty. Their price is 549.95, No tax, free shipping.
Their number is 888-432-7656 use discount code #811

Will they cut custom shafts for that price? I know that you can get custom cut from Currie at 199 a shaft.

Originally posted by bigjeepinYJ
Will they cut custom shafts for that price? I know that you can get custom cut from Currie at 199 a shaft.


NO! They wont be custom length shafts for that price.
But they have almost all of the common factory length in stock, so they can have them to you in as little as 4 days in some cases (they got me my set in on Thursday afternoon, when I ordered them on Monday morning).
To tell you the truth, I dont think Warn does custom lengths anymore. That was one of the things they phased out when they restructured a while back, and sold Black Diamond as such.
I think Dutchman actually does the customizing of Warn Shafts or blanks, in custom sizes are needed.
Thats one of the disadvantages of doing custom length axles.


Edit: I am pretty sure that DriveTrain Direct does custom lengths also, but you will end up spending over $620 for a complete set. And they also dont offer any warranty above or beyond the Warn standard warranty. 888-584-4327

Originally posted by H8monday


You will need to modify the stock spicers to accept a full circle clip.

Thanks H8... I think we can handle that. :D

Originally posted by BellyUp


Thanks H8... I think we can handle that. :D


Hahahaha, I figured you guys were up to that technical modification. But I thought I would help steer anyone unaware, in the right direction.
Make sure to wear safety goggles, when using power tools :flipoff2:

Originally posted by H8monday



Hahahaha, I figured you guys were up to that technical modification. But I thought I would help steer anyone unaware, in the right direction.
Make sure to wear safety goggles, when using power tools :flipoff2: lol thats good advise, ill give ya another one belly, dont waste your time , sell the crap axles to someone still breaking them and there inferior joints and put the warns in..... you will destroy them as the joint laughs at you!


as for weak links and axle breakin now instead of joints....... its really not that hard to figure out guys.... ill try to use a scale and show what i mean..... with stock joints and axles the joints go ohh every 9 out of 10 times of gettin it... ruining the axle and the joint... now with the ctm joint and warn combo, you may only break ohhh 5 out of ten times.... yes you still have a weak link but it is at a higher level now.... its not how much $ youll spend fixing it, its more of how gawd dang often, and with the stock crap it is waaaaay tooo often.. with that said, id be willing to put money on the fact that running my waarns and ctm's ill spend less $ per season than i guy running the stock crap....

Originally posted by badassjeepguy
lol thats good advise, ill give ya another one belly, dont waste your time , sell the crap axles to someone still breaking them and there inferior joints and put the warns in..... you will destroy them as the joint laughs at you!


as for weak links and axle breakin now instead of joints....... its really not that hard to figure out guys.... ill try to use a scale and show what i mean..... with stock joints and axles the joints go ohh every 9 out of 10 times of gettin it...(and the 1 outta 10 you were just damned lucky it didnt go) ruining the axle and the joint... now with the ctm joint and warn combo, you may only break ohhh 5 out of ten times.... yes you still have a weak link but it is at a higher level now.... its not how much $ youll spend fixing it, its more of how gawd dang often, and with the stock crap it is waaaaay tooo often.. with that said, id be willing to put money on the fact that running my waarns and ctm's ill spend less $ per season than a guy running the stock crap....

ok so now i know im a toyguy but iv had jeeps to and i just wonder now that every one thinks theat cmt are the s**t ok where is the fuse dont get me wrong the cmt are the best joiunt i have herd of and with out first hand experince i cant say much but what ever happend to the fuse i found it much cheper to run a good shaft and a good joiun and a weak hub or some outher part as a fuse becous we all know where going to break some thing why not make it a hub or some thing fast and cheep to swap just a thought i know this is old school thought but old works

Originally posted by somedumbkid
ok so now i know im a toyguy but iv had jeeps to and i just wonder now that every one thinks theat cmt are the s**t ok where is the fuse dont get me wrong the cmt are the best joiunt i have herd of and with out first hand experince i cant say much but what ever happend to the fuse i found it much cheper to run a good shaft and a good joiun and a weak hub or some outher part as a fuse becous we all know where going to break some thing why not make it a hub or some thing fast and cheep to swap just a thought i know this is old school thought but old works

The word on the street is that the Warn stub shaft or yoke will fail before the CTM does...

I see no reason why a fella couldn't run a weaker hub or a warn hub fuse (as long as you don't have a Detroit in the pumpkin...). I reckon you'd probably be replacing hubs/fuses a lot if you run any bigger than a 36' tire though.

Jake

i have forgoten about the warn hub fuses i just have always built in a cheep fuse some where in the drive train to save me some $$and time in the long run

I have found that the warn Premium hubs are the fuse. I powdered a Warn Premium hub, on Upper Big Johnson. The good thing is that they are warrantied usually over the counter at most shops.
When the hub let go, it was basicly a non catastrophic event, I heard a pop, and didnt pay attention to it untill I seen the diver side tire wasnt turning. I pulled it apart and the inner hub was in thousand pieces.

Originally posted by H8monday
I have found that the warn Premium hubs are the fuse. I powdered a Warn Premium hub, on Upper Big Johnson. The good thing is that they are warrantied usually over the counter at most shops.
When the hub let go, it was basicly a non catastrophic event, I heard a pop, and didnt pay attention to it untill I seen the diver side tire wasnt turning. I pulled it apart and the inner hub was in thousand pieces.


hmmm a broken hub...... i have never had the chance to break one, because my gawd damn joint would let go, taking and axle with it........ that was my so called "fuse" :rolleyes: now i may actually break a hub............. hmmmmm but from the looks of it it will take MORE to do that that what i was doing with shafts and joints.............. there fore my entire assembly now has a higher thresh hold for breakage with and easier so called "fuse" to fix... hmmmmm sounds like a deal to me.... :D

So...let's see that is $549 for the axles, $300 for the u-joints, that is $849+tax and the time to remove and ship them when they break. And you will still be wheeling with a d44. I don't care how good these products are, they will still eventually break when you are getting on it hard. Word of advice.... sell the d44 to someone else and build a d60. You will probably be less $$ in the hole in the long run. And a stock d60 will still be stronger. With a d60 you also will have a stronger knuckle. I have a 78 J20 with a front 44 and I cannot wait until I have the money for a front d60. The worst break that I ever had was the driver side knuckle. When it went, it took the u-joint and both axle yolks with it.

Originally posted by jbrooks86
And a stock d60 will still be stronger.

But it will never be lighter...:flipoff2:

Originally posted by jbrooks86
So...let's see that is $549 for the axles, $300 for the u-joints, that is $849+tax and the time to remove and ship them when they break. And you will still be wheeling with a d44. I don't care how good these products are, they will still eventually break when you are getting on it hard. Word of advice.... sell the d44 to someone else and build a d60. You will probably be less $$ in the hole in the long run. And a stock d60 will still be stronger. With a d60 you also will have a stronger knuckle. I have a 78 J20 with a front 44 and I cannot wait until I have the money for a front d60. The worst break that I ever had was the driver side knuckle. When it went, it took the u-joint and both axle yolks with it.


Wow theres a brilliant thought, a D60, why hadnt anyone thought of that before.:rolleyes:

Many people already have a lot of money in their D44, and simply do not need to go to a D60 to run 36" tires, they just need the U joints to be able to handle the abuse that the rest of the axle can easily withstand.
Nobody is suggesting the D44 will now replace the D60. It is just a reliable way to get the most out of an axle that is much better than its stock U joints have previously been capable of.
So for a guy running 36" tires with analready built up D44 axle with the propper width, gears, lockers and steering, you would suggest to dump the axle and spend $3000, for an axle that, is probably, overkill? That makes a lot of sense.

Now personaly, I will be going to a D60, my choice of driving style and obstacles, will eventually lead to me destroying a locker or ring and pinion. But not everyone needs a D60.

On the back page of the March 2002 issue Randys ring and pinion lists 4340 alloy axles for $114 long side, $97 for the short side, and $63 for the stub. I don't know what his warranty is of if you can get 30 spline stubs.

Originally posted by jbrooks86
So...let's see that is $549 for the axles, $300 for the u-joints, that is $849+tax and the time to remove and ship them when they break. And you will still be wheeling with a d44. I don't care how good these products are, they will still eventually break when you are getting on it hard. Word of advice.... sell the d44 to someone else and build a d60. You will probably be less $$ in the hole in the long run. And a stock d60 will still be stronger. With a d60 you also will have a stronger knuckle. I have a 78 J20 with a front 44 and I cannot wait until I have the money for a front d60. The worst break that I ever had was the driver side knuckle. When it went, it took the u-joint and both axle yolks with it. ]

Dude, the D44 with the CTM's has been proven to hold up, and if you have a well built 44 adding a little over $800 bucks for the upgrade is not bad at all, I know alot of people running 38's on D44 with the 297x that havent broke a joint yet.. There is always over kill, D60 is nice if you have it already, but if you have the 44 built up, there is no reason to get rid of it to swap out a big ol 60.. If your gonna hammer the thing like crazy you can break almost anything D44 or D60, But with my setup I like not having the extra fucking weight, or draggin my diff all over rocks.. I am just saying with the CTM's and Warns it has made the strength issue that the 44 had with the weak joints pretty much non existing, and thats a big plus for alot of people running the D44 who for one dont want to get a D60 or have alot cash invested in there D44.:rasta: :rasta:

ive ran my d44 reverse for 2 years of very hard abuse in moab....
i've ran upper proving grounds 3 times which ive been told is about as tough as it gets...with the stock shafts and joints the only time i broke was trying to get up the rock pile on pritchett with no rocks stacked. under heavy right foot and lots of air...the front shaft twisted on the end..but did not break.then the rest of the outer stub inward was twisted..like a candy cane...then towards the inside....almost to the splines it snapped finally..
the joint never broke....and ive yet to break an axle joint.
i already had a set of warn extreme duty outers so i threw them on..
more times than not when you turn the outer stub flexes and pops the retainer out and you break....if your not rich...and want a cheap trick..take a washer....tack weld it over the axle joint...
the ujoint cap can spin all it wants..but cannot pop out....this works well..trust me...i ran for two year on stock 30 shafts with 33's and i could push the caps in with my fingers the axle knuckles where stretched so bad.

That is an extremely good tip. the majority of joint failures with a stock joint comes from the joint being ablt get away, and twist out of the yokes. I have however shock fractured stock shafts and stubs even with joints welded in. I admit I am brutal on equiptment, but it isnt because I want to break things, but i wont let my equiptments limitations dictate my line choice. There are some manuevers that the stock gear will not physicaly be able to handle.
I wopuld however be the 1st to say, that if you are only occasionaly breaking U joints and you are running the stock clips, that a tip like Moab YJ suggests be your 1st line of modifications. It costs nothing, and it is the cure for a large percentage of failures.
Very Good tip MoabYJ !
And welcome Newbie, thanks for bringing something usefull to the table,...OH yeah :flipoff2:

thanks for the good word H8monday...remember though that just cause im a newbie to this forum im not a newbie to rock crawling.
one word i'd like to mention is that most people tack the joint it self...this is not as good as the washer cause it dosent allow the joint to move independantly of the axle yoke.

Originally posted by RCKRATZ
Warn shafts are thru-hardened, and Moser shafts are induction hardened. The moser shafts therefore have a softer core which gives them a longer fatigue life, but leaves them more susceptible to breaking during a one time overload. The moser's will be better then a spicer axle, but in imo they fall short of the Warn's in terms of strength in our application.

I am sorry guru, but this has been bugging me. Maybe I misunderstood your type, but if what you said is true and a Warn shaft is through hardened and Moser is case hardened, the Moser will be better. It will allow for a shock type load without breaking. I think that is when we are likely to break axles - with wheel hop or suddenly grabbing a rock. The through hardened shaft would be stronger if you just apply straight torque to it, but the case hardened one would take a jolt and allow a little twist before snapping.

I am an EE that works in a bearing plant for heavy equipment. We use case hardened material. I confirmed my theory with my co worker that has a BSME and PE.

-Bart

One other thing - when ou are talking about tacking the washer aove (which sounds like it will solve some of the biggest problems with the 297 breakage) where exactly are you taking? Are you tacking to the yoke right over the end of the cap?? I am not asure I understand how you did this. Is it trail repairable? Do you have to grind off the washer to change a joint? Thanks.

-Bart

im pissed and bored........ see my gen chit chat post....


so ill explain why ctm's are a good deal for ME...


im running high pinion 9's front and rear.... bout them used, knowing they wouldnt suit me for long.... the rear one has held up good... the front all good but joints and axle shafts... so get a 60? yes, and i will but...............


my future plans are whats keeping the nine in there for now.... so i wanted to make what i got a little better... with ctm and warn it will be... ok i spent 1000$


when i build a new axle it is going to be wider and have an 8 lug 16.5 inch wheel... so the rear needs replaced also... now on top of that im goint to be changing my tranny and t case... then doin a custom coil over suspension......... so i need front and rear axles, beadlock wheels, t case, coils, links, heims.. yadda yadda yadda................ now i am not goin to drop 10 grand in this over night and i still want to wheel (hell i have to or i go through withdrawl) so this was a good upgrade to make it last a little longer... i will start getting all of my parts together for the change, when i got em all it will go in the garage and come out a new rig, and im sure i can sell the axles for a decent $

so i cant speak for eeryone else as to why, but i have my reasons and for the time being ctm and warns are goanna help my shit stay together...........

Originally posted by bart
One other thing - when ou are talking about tacking the washer aove (which sounds like it will solve some of the biggest problems with the 297 breakage) where exactly are you taking? Are you tacking to the yoke right over the end of the cap?? I am not asure I understand how you did this. Is it trail repairable? Do you have to grind off the washer to change a joint? Thanks.

-Bart

BART, I agree completely.. I want pics.. Maybee I can try this with my wimpy little DANA 30 and 297's

H8 Post some pics of this... Come awwwn Help a guy with no money out... :trooper:

Originally posted by BellyUp


BART, I agree completely.. I want pics.. Maybee I can try this with my wimpy little DANA 30 and 297's

H8 Post some pics of this... Come awwwn Help a guy with no money out... :trooper:


did it done it, broke it :D

Ok nuf said. Thanks rob.

Originally posted by badassjeepguy



did it done it, broke it :D

You may have, but it does help some, does it not? Maybe us guys who are just runnin' 33s on their 30 can get by and help it just a little. Can't hurt, the next step is Warn or Moser shafts.

-Bart

Originally posted by bart


You may have, but it does help some, does it not? Maybe us guys who are just runnin' 33s on their 30 can get by and help it just a little. Can't hurt, the next step is Warn or Moser shafts.

-Bart oh i believe it is a good thing to do, still didnt stop mine from going............. you can listen to all or none.... its all based upon individual application.... in my application it just aint enough... others it may be

I never tacked a washer on (damn good idea) but I have tacked the caps to the actual shaft. Usually makes a d30 joint last about twice as long for me (every other run). However you do have to grind the welds to change the joint. I just carry two sets of spares and change the joints at home.

Some of my friends in the Carolinas live by this. They tack in their 60 caps.:eek: :eek:

For those of you that kinda want a visual for this..take a heavy washer....big enough in diameter to cover your axle joint cap.
place it over the cap...so it is sitting centered on the yoke of the axle. tack weld on four sides...
what this does is basicly what the full circle lock rings does...it keeps the joint from popping out...even if your lock ring does pop off..it also allows the cap to move freely inside the yoke of the axle...because stock shafts will flex and break the welds if you tack the cap itself to the axle.
one thing to think about is...this is free...other than the cost of the washer.so....its not like you have much to lose by trying it.


:D

Originally posted by moabyj
For those of you that kinda want a visual for this..take a heavy washer....big enough in diameter to cover your axle joint cap.
place it over the cap...so it is sitting centered on the yoke of the axle. tack weld on four sides...
what this does is basicly what the full circle lock rings does...it keeps the joint from popping out...even if your lock ring does pop off..it also allows the cap to move freely inside the yoke of the axle...because stock shafts will flex and break the welds if you tack the cap itself to the axle.
one thing to think about is...this is free...other than the cost of the washer.so....its not like you have much to lose by trying it.


:D

Thats actually a very good idea.
I have welded the caps to the yokes for years,(usually in cases where the yoke has been deformed and I had to beat the crap out of it, to make it suedo round again. It works well, because the cap doesnt really have to spin in a circle, the roller bearings inside will rotate as needed...... But, I have still grenanded many of the welded assemblies(both deformed, and new yokes).
Moab YJ on the other hand has good success with his technique. Driving styles may or may not be substantialy different, but, given the bennefit of the doubt, for the cost of running this type of assembly, I would say that its worth a try, and lets see some more results.
And yes you do need to grind out your welds to change a U joint,..but when they only last a few hours, you really arent concerned with changing them for maintenance,....this is a potential fix for guys who are regularly destroying 297 X or 5-760X joints with the Spicer axle shafts, and the(prone to failure) top mount clips.

Hey MoabYJ,
Do you live in Moab?
Are you gonna be at the Easter Moab event. If my junk is still together after the Victorville CalROCS, I was thinking of comming out to MOAB.
I was supposed to wheel upper proving grounds with a couple of locals(no names)in June, but it never came together(long annoying story).
It was still awsome.
I have some outrageouse pics of an almost backflip off Escalator.

H8monday yeah..im from moab...i ran the proving grounds last safari on easter sunday..just me and a friend from texas that came up.
i actually helped build the trail and was one of the first people to run it...dont ask me why...it fought me last time more than before..maybe it was the grenaded tranny mount..or maybe it was the cv joint that had been shot for about a year that i had assumed was just my detroit being a pain.
anyway...i know all about the escalator...although i havent ran it in a while.
guess im goin to go run pritchett tomorrow...the rock pile is getting pretty evil lately with no rocks at the base...
im not sure what im goin to be doing this year...but if your goin to be in town i'd love to check out your rig and point you in the direction of the proving grounds

Ill trade you a run on proving grounds, for a run on "Upper Big Johnson" at JV(gotta be one of toughest trails I have ever ran).
Last time I ran Pritchert, there was no way in hell a short wheel base was gonna make it up the rock pile. But off to the right was an almost trail that looked like someone had tried to escape from. It was a very narrow,little ramp, up through a slot in the ledge,( and pitched towards the canyon side). It had to be ran with full determination, but I shot up and out. No one else made it. And half ass attempts lead to one roll over.
I sure hope they dont shut down Tato Salad. It is a shrine for my own U joints.

Escalator:
I was on a sweet line, untill a spun a tire with the new 5.0, I thought I was going over backwards, but I spun side ways and it laid me on the wall.

Id like to hook up with ya.
E mail me a ph number.

Originally posted by moabyj
one thing to think about is...this is free...other than the cost of the washer.so....its not like you have much to lose by trying it.


:D

That's what I'm talkin' about! I don't break many 297s, so this may be all I need. Thing about it is when you break a joint, you lose one or both axles, depending on how much you are gettin' it.

I've got the idea now, anyway. What makes this better than a full circle clip? The washer would be easier and probably more reliable, but hard to change. The clip would take a little more time to do, but would be easier to change on the trail.

Thank guys!

-Bart

I am not trying to be an @sshole, I just think that it would be cheaper and stronger to go with a dana 60. I know that I am not the first person to think of this, everyone around me is going to 60's and I still have a stock front 44. I am just saying with the money that a guy could sell his built 44 for, he could get into a 60 for not much money. Whoever thinks it is going to cost them $3000 is crazy. I can find a front 60 today for under $1000. Gears will run about $350 to $500, and a locker is about $ 500. Now that is still under $2000, minus however much you can get for your old 44. and as far as weight, who gives a sh!t about un-sprung weight. I don't think that going to a D60 is that unfeasible.

Ok here is my sit-chi-ation. i have a "chris built" Dana 44 front end that is 60" wide and is under my CJ (on blocks) if i bust a shaft i will have to get a new one resplined each time...that will cost me a zillion bucks! so what i am going to do is run a Dutchman custom cut warn shafts with stock Spicer (free…) stubs with a CMT joint (maybe) that way if/when i break it wont take out the warn high dollar PITA to get narrowed shaft. or the CMT then i can just change stubs and be on my merry way. what wrong with that picture? i think it would be a good fuse.

i know the stock joint wont hold...damn V8!

Chris G.

:beer:

so you guys are the ones buying all the 60's and driving the prices up....:D :D :D

Can't you do the Warn axles/CTM joints/Warn hubs upgrade on the stock Dana 30 too (on a CJ for example)? I know you will be giving up strength in the diff itself, but it would seem to be the cheepest and easiest way to run ~35s without breaking, and the ground clearance would be sweet. What am I not thinking of (knuckles, tubes) ??????

hmm.shafts?>..they break ...at the splines...fairly easy unless you go aftermarket shafts..tubes bend.