From the other thread, I'll put this down to gauge the level of interest in a Longfield produced 4340/300M CV, that is built to the dimensions needed to retrofit in place of an AEU2522 CV (Early 90/110/130 axles). For now, we'll just assume cost is close to current, but may be a bit more, $410 USD a set.

Please only post, if you would seriously purchase a set.

I'll take one set.

Well, maybe. What would strengh be like compared to the GBR 24/24 spline CV?s. Those have held up for a year and a half with 35s for me... But stronger is always better and $450 a set won't break the bank.

Count me in if they are swaps for the AEU2522 CV

I'll commit to minimum one set.

Spares too if the price is right, another set if there is a way to fit them to Volvo's.

Darkstar, I think the real advantage over GBR is that the inners will not be necked down for the star.

I'll commit to minimum one set.

Spares too if the price is right, another set if there is a way to fit them to Volvo's.

Darkstar, I think the real advantage over GBR is that the inners will not be necked down for the star.

Do you mean the shafts? Its been a while since I've had mine out (not since I installed them way back when) but I don't believe they were necked down at all. I have the 24/24 spline MD shafts, not the 24/32 spline. The CVs I have are the newer ones that are manufactured for GBR.

OK, so there are now ones out from GBR. Didn't know that. I guess you original question is relevant. Do you get ABS rings with the GBR CV's?

These are about a year and a half old, so not so new (although the ones in my truck are prototypes). They are now in production, AFAIK. They do have the tone rings, although I have no idea whether they are suitable or not since my ABS is disconnected. I would think they would be fine, as the CVs are all new and designed with the tone ring in them.

What exactly is a 23/34 spline CV?

Billster

I was guessing he meant 24/24?

I would take a set of RD60665's with a 24 spline outer hole, and I assume so would Wilsby for his Volvo's.
Bill.

I would take a set of RD60665's with a 24 spline outer hole, and I assume so would Wilsby for his Volvo's.
Bill.

I would, though my committment above is for minimum one set of AEU2522 lookalikes for the Defender. Any Volvo compatible stuff is on top of that.

I'm not an authority on GBR, but when I was shopping for MDE lockers and shafts about a year and a half ago, Mal was able to supply GBR CV's but adviced against it, since the hole in the star required a necked down halfshaft. He said good material but bad design, patterned after the newer CV's.

What exactly is a 23/34 spline CV? Billster

Haha, fixed....

Well, maybe. What would strengh be like compared to the GBR 24/24 spline CV?s. Those have held up for a year and a half with 35s for me... But stronger is always better and $450 a set won't break the bank.

The 24 spline would be 85% the torsional strength of the 30 spline based on simple diameter. The CV istself should be as strong or stronger than the shafts. Really this should make the ring and pinion the weakest part of the axle.

This is the strength graph for the 30/30 spline
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/images/torquetestgraph.jpg

On the GBR question, he was (or will be??) producing later style CVs out of ??? materials for ??? price with 23 spline inners and 24 spline outer sized to fit the new style axles. It is (will be??) most likely as strong as the shafts also, but I ASSUME costs more. Seems to be very secret squirrel. Problem is I do not believe later CVs can be made to fit older axles, but you can do it the other way.

I have seen that graph before. Doesn't really answer my question, but I doesn't look likle there really is an answer, because I'm not willing to do my own destructive testing. ASSuming the GBR CVs that are out right now are made of a similar material to the longs, wouldn't that make them of similar strength?

Sure wouldn't make them cheaper I bet. I don't know what GBR gets for them, but I paid $900 for 2 CVs, 2 shafts, 2 drive flanges, and 2 caps. About half price, I'm thinking, because they were pre-production units. The shafts look to be symmetrical (just like the MD rear 24 spline shafts, but shorter).

The long CVs you are inquiring about will need a different axleshaft, correct?

Red90, were the tests that the graph is referring to, conducted with the joints at straight ahead or at 30 degrees displacement? Similar tests that Marlin Crawlers did some years ago on their Marfielded joints indicated that the modified toyota bell was stronger than the shaft even at 30 degrees full lock. If Rover bells weren't through hardened and if there were a satisfactory way of anhealing them and recase hardening the ball tracks without shrinking them I think a simple Mar/Longfielding process would be enough to satisfy most of us. The socalled reheatreated Rover CV's with welded rings in existance leave the ball tracks too soft for long life on a daily driver.
Bill.

I assume, Longfields tests are straight ahead. It is meant to give comparison with stock Toy CVS and the Longfield heat treated and ringed ones. One thing to note is it say the 30 spline stub broke and not the CV, so the CV should stronger than a 4340 30 spline shaft in straight ahead torsion.

The CVs should use your existing 24/23 spline inner shafts. I'm not sure about the flanges as I don't know how GBR designed his CVs. If you already have the new GBR CVs, I don't believe that this would do you any good as I'm sure they are close enough.

The drive flanges are MDE, 24 spline, same as the rears.

When you write 24/23 spline, what does the 23 refer to?

Darkstar, 23 refers to the spline count of the star inside the bell.
Red90. I would have expected almost any CV joint to break the stub or inner shaft in the straight ahead position. Even Marlin was surprised at how strong a standard unmodified Toyota cv was in straight ahead. If I remember right they could not buy or make a shaft that was stronger than the stock bell in straight ahead tests.
Bill.

if they made an AEU2522 equiv, I'd buy a set.

I would be in as well. I'm tired of trying to figure out all this crap, give me something that bolts in with no headaches and works, please.

LOL - you're learning now, Adam!! Welcome to the club...

Darkstar, 23 refers to the spline count of the star inside the bell.
Red90. I would have expected almost any CV joint to break the stub or inner shaft in the straight ahead position. Even Marlin was surprised at how strong a standard unmodified Toyota cv was in straight ahead. If I remember right they could not buy or make a shaft that was stronger than the stock bell in straight ahead tests.Bill.

As I understand it, Longfield has there own dustructive testing rig. They have been finding that their chromo shafts are stronger than the older CVs. What we need is Sam to do some field testing as he seem to be an expert at breaking CVs. :grinpimp:

LOL - you're learning now, Adam!! Welcome to the club...

No kidding, eh... after wasting a lot of time and even more money trying to figure out the Toyota CV swap using stock Rover spindles and only ending up with a set of junk spindles and now-useless inner axleshafts, I am a bit frustrated. The next truck will have AEU2522's or their alloy equivalent.

No kidding, eh... after wasting a lot of time and even more money trying to figure out the Toyota CV swap using stock Rover spindles and only ending up with a set of junk spindles and now-useless inner axleshafts, I am a bit frustrated. The next truck will have AEU2522's or their alloy equivalent.

This needs to be a thread all by itself!

JP

Nobody seems to be able to keep ontopic around here.

I'd buy 2 or 3 of these CV's if they were around $500/ for 2. I would prefer closer to $400 or even less.

Genuine are $240 apiece in the UK. I have no problem paying that, though I'd have to add tax, duty and more expensive shipping.

Genuine are $240 apiece in the UK. I have no problem paying that, though I'd have to add tax, duty and more expensive shipping.

Of course the current exchange rate wouldn't hurt you much either! :mad3:

I'd buy one set in AEU2522 form.
Serg

Definatley a set +spares

Good thread John,

If they can do a decent number of road miles without wearing out I will buy a set for my DD 110. I think I will fit the 30/30's to my IIA though.

For the lazy, a couple of links to information on other thread on the 30/30 and 27/30 Chromos.

Information Thread (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=286359&highlight=longfield)

User Thread (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272226&highlight=longfield)

that graph makes me think if you are going to be running a rover diff the ring gear is going to be the next weak link in the drive train.

that graph makes me think if you are going to be running a rover diff the ring gear is going to be the next weak link in the drive train.
:shaking:
.....Really this should make the ring and pinion the weakest part of the axle.

OK, in case it is not clear......

1) This route is for trucks that do NOT need more strength than the Rover R&P.

2) If you need MORE strength than the Rover R&P, put a Toy mini truck center in with 30/30 spline Longfields. If you want a feel for the strength of this set-up read the threads linked above.

3) If you need more strength than a Toy R&P, go find another axle.

:flipoff2:

Anyone seen my valium?

that graph makes me think if you are going to be running a rover diff the ring gear is going to be the next weak link in the drive train.

Of course the R&P will be the next weak link, but for many people that are breaking CV's but not R&P's it will be strong enough. Also I think the fact that the lonfields are still soft/elastic (compared to stock) will mean that they protect the rest of the drive train to shock loading to some extent.

Of course the R&P will be the next weak link, but for many people that are breaking CV's but not R&P's it will be strong enough. Also I think the fact that the lonfields are still soft/elastic (compared to stock) will mean that they protect the rest of the drive train to shock loading to some extent.

thats my point if you are breaking cv's and you do this upgrade i think you will start to break r&p under the same type of wheeling. the r&p are holding up now because the cv joint fails before you get a chance to stress the gears. it alot easier to change a cv than it is a r&p. the toy r&p is a step in the right direction but longfield is offering treat of r&p all ready.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302773

just thinking out loud

FWIW not very many people are breaking rear ring gears of the 3.54 or 4.11 variety... and that is with either 30 or very heavy duty 24 spline shafts. I think that the front would survive almost as well... the only reason i broke my front ring gear in each case (i did twice) was because of a piece of a different broken part getting stuck between the ring and pinion mesh. once it was a carrier bearing cap bolt (shop didnt torque/loctite them) and once it was a piece of broken center pin or spider gear from an open diff i had installed.

thats my point if you are breaking cv's and you do this upgrade i think you will start to break r&p under the same type of wheeling.

As 64rovr says, there is no CV in the rear "protecting" the R&P. The stress in the rear is much worse than the front for "most" people.

Basically, if a stock 3.54 or aftermarket 4.11 with aftermarket 24 spline shafts is adequate for what you do in the rear axle, this route in the front will also be adeqate as it should make the front as strong as that rear set-up.

If that rear set-up is NOT enough, then you should be looking at the Toy center, 30 spline route.

Count me in if they are swaps for the AEU2522 CV
I'd be interested as a stopgap till I re-axle

TomW

I'd take one possibly two sets. They would sell well in England.

I count 12 sets to this point.

I am in for 2 sets dependant on the cost and what has to be changed to fit them.

BTTT, anyone who's still interested see the bottom of this thread :D

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351141&page=2&pp=25

If Longfield or CV Unlimited produce CV's that are a direct placement for AEU2522's (that are a decent hardness - for a constant 4x4) and are $400USD+shipping or less I will buy a pair (minimum).

Ben, if everything goes to plan they'll be about that price and'll be a direct replacement with good longevity.