Here in the next few months im getting a 87 burb. Its a 1500 4x4 10 bolts front and rear with a 350. I really want to do a 12 inch superlift and 3 inch body and run some 49s. That will be a good offroad set up right? Those 49s should really tear it up right?




:flipoff2:

Ok sorry, I am getting that rig but i want to work everything out now so i dont make any stupid mistakes/waste $$$

Im of course going with a 60/14 5.13 detroited combo. I have looked around and tough country and BDS are the top contenders are far as mass produced lifts. I had thought of doing the 8 inch BDS and pulling some leaves (maybe drop ride height to 5-6" ??) with some 42s on hummer beadlocks. Now for my questions:

The motor is regular 350 with fuel injection, however it has about 225k on it and its tired. Should i rebuild it or just go straight for a big block 454? will the 350 with 5.13s turn the 42s? Should i swap 52s up front right away or see what kinda flex i get outta the BDS lift? In the rear i will prob do a shackle flip and some 4 inch springs (BDS, TC). Any thing im nt thinking about or missing? Any info or help would be much appreciated.

Also i realize this is a burb and alot of ppl dont think you can really wheel them but, fawk its what i got and body damage is a must.

Well since i have a burb also i have done a lot of research and i hink 12 is huge i am only going 6 in lift but to each his own and the 60/14 will work great as for the lift i am going to go with a tuff country lift and 4 inch shakle flip in the rear to make the rear sit up a little higher than just plain 6 inch...if you can get away with a 454 for smog reasons do it i live in cali and its hard to do a conversion like that but 350's are cheap and easy to hop up so thats really up to you

Well since you haven't started building yet, here is what I would do from the start if I started my rig over again...

I would have gone with 52" fronts, and 56" rears, HPd60 w/ Drw hubs, drw-HD70 with srw-14ff hubs in the rear. I would have gotten 5.86 gears, and Detroit F&R, Full Hydro, and I would have gone with EFI or Propane Inj. I would also have gone with stock H1 rims and 39.5-42" IROK's. Whatever tranny/t-case you have, if you have a HpD60 like I stated before, you could go with a divorced ford NP205 behind your married chevy Np205, and have cheap dual cases.

That's me. Now, your situation wouldn't be much different actually. It would just be longer, and possibly hydro-assist instead of full hydro due to the possibility of road driving.

I have a burban 12" superlift w/ 3in. body on 44" Hawgs w/5.13's detroit F&R (had to trim to eliminate rub). If you go 49's you will have to get a bigger lift or another burban frame and stack it. If you go 42's a 12/3 would be fine. As for the 350. Had one in my burban when I first lifted it. It is alright for crawling but if you trail or mud I would with a big block it woke my truck up. And since your pulling it anyways get rid of it. Your going to spend some $$$ to get a SB to = the power of a BB. It will give you the extra torque to spin the big tires like your 350 spun the stock tires. As for gears I am now running 6.80 in 2.5 ton rockwells so if you going w/ a D60/14ff I would agree w/ Eisenfaust and go w/ the 5.86's w/detroit. As for induction I would stay away from the injection and throw a carb on for simplicity and especially if your going to be mudding and through water(not a good combo for electronics and dirt tends to foul plugs up). As for propane It is more efficiant but search around for the pros and cons. If you run out of gas on the trail you might be able to barter with other wheelers to get a few gallons, that's another story with propane. But none the less look into it.

You can take my .02 or leave it but I just thaught you might want some advice from someone who has done it, not just reasearched it.

What are you actually using it for? I use mine on the rocks and just to get out past the normal SUV idiots on the trails.

I have a '90 Sub with a 200k mile small block, T400, ORD Doubler, D60 (open), 14 Bolt (w/Detroit), 1350 CV Joints, 1350 joint on the D60, 1410 on the 14B, Cross over steering (adding hydro assist this weekend), 35 spline stub shafts, 42" TSL's on hummer beadlocks, Mile Marker winch, 2" body lift, Sullibuilt Rocksliders, 52" front springs with the front hanger relocated down 2" and a long add a leaf, and the rears are the stock 56" springs with a long add a leaf and a 1" zero rate on a home built rear shackle flip. I've never been the one holding the group back on the trail and it did extrememly well on Clawhammer out in Johnson Valley. It ramps about 975 and I know I can go 1000 with the shocks off. (I can't afford new shocks right now.) The only thing I'd like to do different would be 63" inboarded rear springs, get rid of the body lift (too top heavy), 5.13's(highest you can go in a 14b) instead of 4.88's, and a front locker.

Propane is great, but as stated before it has drawbacks aswell, the best answer is a duel-fuel setup, not near as much electronics for the water to screw up as EFI, and switching back from propane to gas is just a matter of flicking the switch. All the positives without the drawbacks.

About engines, the first time I built my truck I wasted $3500 building a SB for it. It worked ok, but there is truly no replacement for displacement. If I had it to do over I would have gone straight to the BB right away.

I was joking about the 49s. I will use this burb for everything. I would like to be able to all trails (size allowing). Anywhere I fit i would like to wheel. I cant really say it will be soley rocks but that what i would prefer. Sounds like 52s will be a definite upgrade upfront. As of right now im in college and not making much money so the nice upgrades like 35 spline shafts ARB upfront willhave to be put on hold. Thanks for the ideas though they will help alot, now its just time to finish planning and start spending the little cash i got.

Take your time on the planning and make sure your "Measuring twice and cutting once".

What I mean by that is you're going to be altering your driveline lengths and other things. Don't go and do a mod that requires you to have your driveshafts resized and then do another mod that requires a completely different driveshaft length. You'll be spending money twice when you only had to do it once.

Also, don't forget to re-enforce that frame at the steering box!

Most importantly: The sawzall is your friend :smokin: . You can eliminate alot of unnessasary lift by fender trimming. Dont forget too much lift = very high center of gravity. Hope that helps

check this one out for a little body work

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/415150

Remove a little bit of the body here, add a new piece there, add more of your own there, hell with it just remove the 'burban body and build your own cab and run 47" tires with a 4" lift kit. 60f &70r with 7.17s and a stock 350 will move you around pretty good, a doubler would be nice. Cross-over steering for now but the full hydro is waiting to go on. Here's what you end up with.
http://pics.montypics.com/speedo/2004-09-17/1095465443_2004_Hunt_108.jpg

Gus

haha now thats badass :smokin: