Okay I got this truck. It's an '87 Toyota turbo. Can I use the power steering box and pump on my Zuk? The a/c compressor? The rear axle? (is '87 axle stronger than '83, or should I not bother?) If there is anything else I could use please let me know.

I'm confused about what the SOS kit needs for parts. Would I need the Toy trans and t-case for that kit? Do I need a second Toy t-case to get low gearing like the OTT kit?

Sorry for all the questions.

Yes, yes, and yes. The axle on that IFS truck is a couple inches wider than the SA earlier ones, also because the truck is a turbo, the third member is stronger and so are the gears. Good luck bro...

Originally posted by EMIEVEL
Would I need the Toy trans and t-case for that kit? Do I need a second Toy t-case to get low gearing like the OTT kit?

Yeah, but I would really rather you sold the tranny and t-case to me:D ! If you decide to not use it, lemme know, as I'm searchin' for that exact one....

I might consider selling that. Toy guys are rabid about Turbo trucks... a crappy one will go for some suprisingly high $$$.

The tranny and X-fer are $500-ish alone. Might be worth thinking about selling and getting some non-tubo stuff in it's place... more work, but you'd have $$$ in your pocket.

Personally, I think the Turbo Toy drivetrain in a Sammy would be one hell of a trail rig - 140-160HP 22-RTE, R151 tranny, 23 spline XFer -> 23Spline x-fer, to a front 84-85 axle with a hy-pinion diff and the rear axle off the IFS rig.

Turbo trucks had the "V6" third member in the back. I bought a lockright for the V6 third that's going into the back of my Toy last friday for $195. V6 lockrights are cheaper than 4-cyl ones, since the 4-pinion design is easier to make. And it's far easier to install a V6 lockright yourself. I put the lockright in my 4-cyl diff, and pounding the shear pin out of the carrier SUCKED. The V6 bolts together... no shear pin. :D

I hear a lot of Zuk guys using early 80's front and using IFS rears and narrowing them like 3" on the passenger side and them having the passenger axle cut and resplined. That way the output is with 2" of the pinion (left to right). And in the end you have both passenger offset axles that are the same width...

Originally posted by EMIEVEL
Okay I got this truck. It's an '87 Toyota turbo. Can I use the power steering box and pump on my Zuk? The a/c compressor? The rear axle? (is '87 axle stronger than '83, or should I not bother?) If there is anything else I could use please let me know.



Keep the engine too! That is an engine worth keeping - then you don't need any adapters.

Ever price a full rebuild job on a Toy turbo 22RET? About $3,000. Figure $1,500 for new pistons, rings, bearings, and machine work on the block and head, and another $1,500 for a rebuilt turbo. Lots of turbo 22RET's running around out there running with dead turbos: if the owners don't let the engine idle for 30 seconds before shutdown (to cool off the 1,200 degree turbo) the oil passages are tar and the turbo ain't doin' anything anymore.

Not a rebuild for the faint of heart or thin pocketbook.

Originally posted by 44Runner
I hear a lot of Zuk guys using early 80's front and using IFS rears and narrowing them like 3" on the passenger side and them having the passenger axle cut and resplined.

Can't be much for splines, the Toy factory splines are rolled and have a larger ID than the shaft. Dutchman and Moser machine (not roll) new splines into a cut axle, so the new spline OD can't be any bigger than the shaft. Also, are they machining the metric Toy angle on the splines, or are they machining them with "close enough" D44 spline angles?

Seems like a Quadra-Trac wagoneer offset-rear D44 would be a better bet.

Originally posted by Drew Persson


Can't be much for splines, the Toy factory splines are rolled and have a larger ID than the shaft. Dutchman and Moser machine (not roll) new splines into a cut axle, so the new spline OD can't be any bigger than the shaft. Also, are they machining the metric Toy angle on the splines, or are they machining them with "close enough" D44 spline angles?

Seems like a Quadra-Trac wagoneer offset-rear D44 would be a better bet.

I have no idea dude, this is just what I have seen a bunch of people doing. Hopefully a zuk guy that has done this will chime in shortly. :)

You know, a stock FJ-40 Land Cruiser rear axle is 55" wide with the diff offset 5" to the passenger side. *

And you can put the super-beef '93-'97 FJ-80 'Cruiser electric locking differential in it. No ARB air problems, and if the motor ever goes down out in the boonies you can still lock and unlock the diff by hand. That baby is designed for 6,000 lbs of loaded 'Cruiser, should hold up to a Sammy just fine.
:D


* Stay with the 1968-ish to 1984 axles, they're stronger than the 50's-60's ones.

Originally posted by Root Moose


Keep the engine too! That is an engine worth keeping - then you don't need any adapters.

Kerry here from SOS........Drew I agree that turbo engine is a keeper.......I'm all for selling an adapter to ya but............................................... .......Kerry

Originally posted by 44Runner


I have no idea dude, this is just what I have seen a bunch of people doing. Hopefully a zuk guy that has done this will chime in shortly. :)

Poppycock has dealt with this issue I believe!!!!! Kerry @ SOS

Gettin' back to the FJ-40 Land Cruiser axle, if someone REALLY wanted to go crazy they could buy one from an overseas 'Crusier (Spectre Off Road imports such parts from Australia) and get the full-floating version! Pretty sure these FF rear axles are also available in Canada on FJ-40's, 45's, and 55's. They use 'em a lot in the mines, where they're carrying a lot of heavy equipment.