How much body lift can I put on my '84 Chevy and be safe on steering linkage and pinion angles? I'm only going up 2" and want to make sure I'm not going to need a new pitman arm or shims. I think I should be safe...but just want to be sure.

Ok, now that I've got my head out of my arse...ignore that part about the pinion angles. I'm used to doing suspension lifts and not body lifts. All I'm really concerned about is if I can just build my own 2" body lift and not have to worry about anything else. I guess I may have to buy extended brake lines...or would I?

Watch your tranny, transfercase linkage. watch your throttle linkage. You should also have to lengthen your steering column. When you buy a body lift it usually comes with the piece.

these are the issues we ran into when installing a 2" kit on a 3/4 ton 94 suburban. may be different but I sould pay attention to them anyway.

I just put a 2 inch body lift in my 81 4x4,I cut 4 inch blocks down to two inch,my 205 transfer case was a little shorter but It did't effect my shifting my steering was fine,just undid the 2 15 milimeter nuts under the dash and slid the column ahead,the only problem I had was the front clip would not match up to the cab so I put in a set of 1 and half inch mounts from a 1995 chevy at the rad support,the truck actually handled better with the body mount.

Cool, thanks for the info. I had planned on making blocks out of 2x2 tubing I've got and was going to make them for all the mounts (support, cab and bed) just to be thorough. My throttle linkage should be fine because it's actually a little too long right now. I guess there's a little difference in the carb's location after the Vortech engine was used. I hadn't thought about the transfer case shifter, but I'll just take to bezel off and remount it after the lift is on. The steering is what I was worried about.

Turns out that this could end up helping me a lot. The previous owner mounted a front clip from an 89 Suburban on my truck and they "jerry rigged" the core support mounts. This way I can get it all straightened out and not have to worry if something's going to fall off.

Any other suggestions?

And again...thank you a bunch guys. That info has eased my mind a great deal.

You will need to lengthen your shifter linkage 2" if you have an automatic, there always seems to be a couple wires (like a ground strap) at the back the engine that gets forgot about when doing body lifts. So make sure if it's too short, to disconnect before you start jacking the body up!

have u checked jc whitney they have 2 inch lifts starting at $79 ands they come with everything u need. If you still decided to make your own you may have to lengthen your gas tank filler hose, when i did my jimmy hadf to buy a new brake bosster hose, modify fan shorud seat belt straps in the back to the frame, had to modify them tranny linkage cut hole in floor for shifter out larger, splice tranny coolant lines, thats bout it.

Sounds like I need to go take a look at everything real close before I jump into it. Since snow has hit, my daily driver is useless and I'm having to drive my truck...so I don't want to go w/o a vehicle for more then a day.

Any suggestions on extending my shifting linkage (auto tranny) and dealing w/ the steering column? mrmister said he "undid the 2 15 milimeter nuts under the dash and slid the column ahead" and I'm guessing he meant that he just moved the column closer to the floor. Is that the case or is there something I'm missing?

actually most chevy's have a collapsible steering column inside the engine compartment. It looks like it could be extended if you were to drill out the little plastic plugs in the middle and then "love on it with a hammer" ever so gently. Of course i didn't know about the little plastic stops in the middle of my shaft when i did my body lift and just beat on it till it extended to the length i needed!
As for extending the tranny linkage, remove it, mark it along the straightest part, cut it, weld in the extended amount(making sure you have it lined back up) re-install it and your done.

:evil: SETHZILLA!

Ok, now that I've got my head out of my arse...ignore that part about the pinion angles. I'm used to doing suspension lifts and not body lifts. All I'm really concerned about is if I can just build my own 2" body lift and not have to worry about anything else. I guess I may have to buy extended brake lines...or would I?
I'm very concerned, I can't help but wonder if you don't know about not needing extended brake lines w/body lift or pitman arm, if you should't try too fab. your own body lift at this time. I make sure my guys always read and follow all directions as they go and check off each one before they go to the next one. I could fax you a copy of directions if you gave me your fax #. I agree a kit for your truck is under a hundred bucks. If you think about drilling all them holes and finding all the right length bolts, fan shroud hardware,filler neck tube(s), linkage info, etc. I'm not saying not to try it, but YOU said you wanted to do it safe. It takes enough time to install a kit, then make kit as you go. GOOD LUCK!

also making body lifts outta tube is a very bad idea, it allows ur cab to shift, and it can cut ur floor and buchings apart...if u dont wanna spend 100$ for a new body lift, check ebay, i got a 3'' with all the parts for 35$ shipped.

Actually, I ended up on the safe side. The tires were mounted on 8" rims and so they were "pulled in" and narrower then the ATs I had on before. So, my clearance wasn't an issue at the time. I may end up making a 1" lift...but that'll be down the road.

Sorry if I gave some of you the wrong impression...I'm not a complete newbie. I was just trying to rush around and figure out what would be needed...but trying to do it all at too fast of a pace. I'm used to lowering vehicles...not lifting. Every lift I've done has always been a suspension lift...in which you need to have extended brake lines and such. Also, when I mentioned making the lift out of tubing...I didn't mean laying on it's end. I actually have 2" square tubing and was going to lay is on the side, then weld in some kind of support in the middle of the tube to make sure the body didn't squash the mount. It should have been fine...but I like to lean more on the safe side.

I mainly posted this to make sure I had thought of everything...but made the post before actually setting down and thinking about it. I like to have all my bases covered and normally I over-look some obscure detail. That's why I made this post.

Anyway, thanks for all the help you guys provided.