Ok. Here's the setup.

345IHV8 (injected, healthy), Stock TF727, D300 w/ 4:1, D60/14B (locked, 5.13), 42" IROKs. I'm planning on going with a 1800 stall TC.

My thoughts are that this; the 1800 RPM stall will allow the engine to rev a bit before applying power ~ this will make stopping easier (since little power is applied at idle). It'll make crawling/climbing easier (since the engine will be in the power band before you go) and lastly, it'll reduce the chance of breakage since the higher stall will help eliminate power spikes due to accidental throttle applications.

..any input?

Isn't that about what stock is anyway?
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I was under the impression that 1200 was stock

I thought the smaller 11" were around 1800 rpm and the larger 12" a little lower. I'm somewhat bored today, I'm gonna go read up a bit in some of my books. I'll post back in a bit.
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Here are the specs:

4-196 - 1300-1450 rpm
6-258 - 1525-1675 rpm
8-304 - 1675-1825 rpm
8-345 - 1800-2000 rpm
8-392 - 1950-2250 rpm

I read those specs in CTS2304 shop manual. The actual section was CTS2578, page 24.
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Thats real interesting. On P3 we used a stock TC and the thing wouldn't stop, we had a 1800 RPM stall TC built and then it worked fine!?!

Weird.

If you have one running...just go out there and power brake it.
The rpm the engine levels at is your stall.

You may gain in some areas but will loose on engine braking down hill.
With the 4:1 it shouldn't be a big deal.

Thats real interesting. On P3 we used a stock TC and the thing wouldn't stop, we had a 1800 RPM stall TC built and then it worked fine!?!

Weird.

I agree. But I wonder if gear ratio has anything to do with those specs? Put lower gears behind a stock convertor and it probably will stall at a lower rpm. Right? Or have I already drank one too many beers this fine Turkey day!
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Higher RPM stall will mean more heat = bigger trans cooler.

I run a 2,500 stall. No one has ever noticed the difference in stall from a stocker that has driven it. I only notice it during a initial stab at the throttle and a little bit of freewheeling going down steep hills. :)

Stall speed is directly related to engine, trans, axle ratio, and tire size. If you ever call a converter mfg. for recomendation, and they don't ask the above, hang up and call someone else. :D

I don't have anything with a tach.... :(

I guess I'll go with a 2000 RPM unit ~ 392s are built for towing, certainly driving up rock walls produces load like that....well ~ I'll have to see. it looks like 1800-2000

And yes I'm prepared for the need of a bigger cooler. I'm also going to run synthetic fluid. I'm hoping the relatively low crawl (50:1 without TC counted) will help keep the heat issue by reducing the load on the powertrain.

Alrighty ~ two things, a question and favor.

Here's the question. First, what's the stock stall of a Scout. I've gotten and read everything from 1200 to 2200 RPMs. What is supposed to be stock? I don't care if I get conflicting info, I'd rather have honest oppinions. Jeff gave me some numbers (see above) from the manual but I have to admit, I'm not sure I believe them ~ not that I think the manual is wrong, nor do I thing Jeff is trying to lead me astray ~ I just find it hard to believe that factory stalls are really that high. So that leads us to.....

Now for the favor. Can I talk anyone into testing their stall speed and posting the results. From what I've read you hold the brake AND throttle to see the highest speed your RPM reaches for the stall speed.

How to do this in laymans terms; Get in the scout, turn it on and hold the brake firmly. Slowly depress the gas until its to the floor (brake still on, trans in gear), read the engine RPM at its highest point. That is supposed to be the stall of your TC.

Edit: This is a crosspost on several Binder related boards. I'm not trying to discredit anyone's information by doing that, rather I'm trying to get more participants. The more information/tests I can get, the better and more accurate the conclusion will be.

Well, you can try a powerbrake test, but all that does is test your brakes. A stock engine will probably hold against the brakes, but a torgue engine will blow past them.
A trick I used to do on the dragstrip on a vehicle that doesn't have a trans brake and a sticky track that would hold a higher rpm launch is to "Flash" the converter. You can pull a quicker 60ft, but getting it right for a consistant ET is hard. If you have a tach you can see it yourself. In gear at a idle, then punch it. It will rev higher than just foot braking. :)
Speaking of Converters, anyone want to buy a "COAN" 4,500 stall. :flipoff2: It fits a powerglide. It was rebuilt by Coan and I'll let you have it for $500.00. :smokin:

OK,
Mine is dead on 1800 on my 75.
345 with 9.2:1
isky cam.

Guess either my 4wheel disk with hyroboost are good or my new motor is bad? :D
Guess you could use the side of the house and 4wd and the brakes!

I ll go with what Shadowman wrote both times.

I have a PTC 11 inch 2500 stall behind my 440 currently. It will "flash" about 2500 little less but you can get moving as low as 1500 rpms. I only run 3:54 gears and 29 inchers currently.

Its defintely very usable. I mean I snow-plowed with it the first year I put it in.

wp

Well, you can try a powerbrake test, but all that does is test your brakes. A stock engine will probably hold against the brakes, but a torgue engine will blow past them.


My auto Scout will pull through the brakes.. easy.. and I run a high-stall converter. Makes staging for drags difficult.


A trick I used to do on the dragstrip on a vehicle that doesn't have a trans brake and a sticky track that would hold a higher rpm launch is to "Flash" the converter. You can pull a quicker 60ft, but getting it right for a consistant ET is hard. If you have a tach you can see it yourself. In gear at a idle, then punch it. It will rev higher than just foot braking. :)


BTDT, but I've also been told it's a good way to send your converter to the grave.. something about bending the fins or something, IIRC.

My auto Scout will pull through the brakes.. easy.. and I run a high-stall converter. Makes staging for drags difficult.



BTDT, but I've also been told it's a good way to send your converter to the grave.. something about bending the fins or something, IIRC.

ITs Hp and torque that bends them. Why do you think I sent my Coan convertor back for a rebuild? For the hell of it? Cost $600.00 to rebuild. No, eventually with high horsepower it will fail. I'm not talking 400HP, thats very mild! :flipoff2: If you ever build any really powerful engines, 700HP and up, stock is thrown way out the window. If your breaking alot of parts, quit running stock parts or near stock.. Take some advise, I run at 800HP in my rig all the time and over 650 HP in my Vette. I do know by now what works and what doesn't. I don't speculate, it costs alot of money when your wrong and then your broke........money and parts. :D
I found out over 25 years ago racing BBC Camaros, that if you go cheap on parts, drive them like cheap parts. Eventually replacing all of the cheap parts many times WILL cost more tham buying the good stuff and doing it right. Then your out the cost of cheap parts and the additional cost of the good shit. :)

Are you lookiong for brake stahll or flash stall? :rolleyes: