Ok, how hard is it?
I mean the first case i would have to cut off eveything from the top of teh front output shaft and below and weld up a plate,
to drive it i would weld the back half of a spare intermidte shaft to a spare output shaft (this is going to be the hardest), then make a plate to bolt to the rear of the first case, then make a plate to bolt ot the front of teh 2nd case, bore a hole and weld in a some pipe, then slide the shaft into the pipe.

Simple enough right?

Good to read your post, now I know you're not lost on a back road in the Santa Cruz mountains. Hope the dual transfer case conversion works for you.

LOL, they way you sent me shaved off about 45 mins of drive time and was super easy to follow, i still blame yahoo maps for sending me to the mountians :D

do the 203 instead you don't have to have drivelines modified and you can sell your existing 435/dana 20 adaptor, and the 203 is easier to find, stronger and not much heavier. I need all the rear driveline I've got to keep the CV from binding I think you mentioned you did too. Either way you are copying either a Cold Duck or the wild horses crawl box. It should be easy to make either of thos setups cheaper than they are sold for if you have access to a minimal machine shop. Maybe wild horses will hook you up with a crawl box to better test your output shaft.

If you do as decribed above let me be first in line for that adap. please. If got a POS dana 21 FAWKING SINGLE SPEED.

edit: just might take the 20 as well.

Originally posted by welndmn
Ok, how hard is it?
I mean the first case i would have to cut off eveything from the top of teh front output shaft and below and weld up a plate,
to drive it i would weld the back half of a spare intermidte shaft to a spare output shaft (this is going to be the hardest), then make a plate to bolt to the rear of the first case, then make a plate to bolt ot the front of teh 2nd case, bore a hole and weld in a some pipe, then slide the shaft into the pipe.

Simple enough right?

ok - you kinda lost me, weld the intermediate shaft to an output shaft???

For the cold duck conversion (basically what your proposing ( I think) they cut the first Dana20 off below the idler gear and then modify the output shaft (cut and spline) so it will mate with the input of the 2nd Dana 20 (or maybe they mod the input for the 2nd Dana 20, either way, hopefully you get the idea) so all that needs to be fabbed is cutting the 1st t-case, making the shaft and mount to connect the two and your done.

ok I gotcha now, you were going to weld the back half of an input shaft to the end of an output shaft?

BTW - they guy who originated the idea will still make them for $800, you supply the parts and shipping..

personally, I'm not sure if I'd trust the front and rear output shafts for hard crawling with super low gears, yea you can get a HD rear output from WH for $400, but then you still have the 20 or so year old front output....

How strong is it to weld the two shafts together? I have thought about this for a setup in my ranger but haven't been able to find out how strong it would be. Also what would be the best way to weld it TIG MIG ARC or ?

Matt

injectedeb,

who is this guy, and how do we get in contact with him

BTW - they guy who originated the idea will still make them for $800, you supply the parts and shipping

the guys name is JR Coots in Selma, CA -- for $800.00. This price requires you to disassemble the case yourself, have all the parts cleaned well, send (you pay) all parts including the input shaft to him, and pay to have it shipped back to you.

I'll keep looking to try to find more info..

Too funny Mark. I was just thinking about this last night. Glad you brought it up again.

I have Jeep D20's up that yang around my place. I want to fab a dual setup of my own. I can make/buy the plate adaptor but what I want is the output/imput shaft adaptor. Anyone know if just this item is for sale anywhere?

I'll check Steel Horses and Cold Duck.

Anyone have Cold Duck's website?

arent Dana 20s a rather rare and nice piece?
why chop them up when there are millions of POS 203 range boxes to use.
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/waterman/waterman.cfm

Gordon did bring up a good point, another 6 inchs to my shaft will mean i will have to pony up for Jess's high angle shafts as well

I was talking to a contact about getting JR coots to sell a Do it your self kit, with the shaft and adapter plate, that way you do all the t-case cutting and save some serous cash.

as for welding the shafts (rear of a intermite shaft to the rear of an output shaft) that would have to be framed out to someone a whole lot smarter then my self

I was playing around and found this
http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/2transfercase.html
IMO its a crappy write up, but once i can figure out how Wild horses connects the 203 to the NP435 i think we may be in bussiness

Mark,

That is 3/4 tonYJ's site. He is on this board.

And my friend (themadhatter on this board) is working on doing a 435/203/EBD20 adapter set right now. It will involve having your 435 and 203 shafts cut and splined.

We call it the "Lobster Crawler" (hey, we're from Maine :D).

Charly

I have a dodge 203 sitting around I have often wondered what it would take to stick it between my already AA adapted NP435 to dana300 combo.

Any Ideas?

Can't be to difficult, the input shaft of the dana300 and 302 appear to be very similar.

Yeah weldermn, you would start running probs doing a cold duck

not knowing right off what you have for a rig, and it is a little unclear how you want to do this.

I think that the way you want to build it, is a 20 case with the output cover removed, and make an adapter plate to bolt THAT to a 20 input. Then, either make a custom shaft from 20 output to 20 input, weld something together, or a stub shaft. That is going to be both the weak link and the expensive part. Not to mention it will probably put a foot extra into your drivetrain

The 203/20 doubler (unless the Jeep 20 and EB 20 inputs are wildly different) is not too bad to do. Once you measure out all the bolt holes and such, if you get access to machining equipment, it is nothing too hard. The most complex thing you will need is a rotary table (at least my design uses one). Shaft splining isn't a big deal (can be done yourself if you have the equipment or Moser will do it for low cost). The 203 shaft between the reduction housing and the chain drive is beefy enough to cut and spline down, and depending on how you make the adapter plate, you can make the thing clockable too.

I found a 203 in a farmer's cow field for $50. Once I ground off the crusted on cud, the internals were fine, and that is the one I am using. I am considering making or buying the WH beefier output, just because they are marginal with V8s and heavy go pedals, and with the 2X torque multiplication, there may be a higher chance of breakage. If I can find one of the yokes for their kit, I could just make a shaft (but might just be cheaper to buy).

My $0.02

themaddhatter: TFM velvet Elvis follower

Monkeyboy,

I am working on doing a 435/203/300 for my buddy

It will be pretty easy. Again, just the cutting and splining shafts, and fabbing adapters.

If you got the skills and equipment, go for it.

themaddhatter TFM: Elvis sightings anywhere?

Originally posted by injectedEB
the guys name is JR Coots in Selma, CA -- for $800.00. This price requires you to disassemble the case yourself, have all the parts cleaned well, send (you pay) all parts including the input shaft to him, and pay to have it shipped back to you.

I'll keep looking to try to find more info..
I know JR if you want me too I will find out if he will do this.

Madhatter I can probably do most of the work myself aside from cutting and resplining shafts :D

I just need to pick the old 203 up from my old hous take it home and take it apart to see what would be involved with the whole process
I need to make the adapter as short as possible

I got my 203 out of an old dodge that was sitting upside down in a field where people dump crap all the time :D
The axles manifolds and intake were missing but the auto tranny and block were still their.

Do you have any pictures or hints that you can send me of the 435/203/300 combo
One of my concerns is the AA adapter adding to much length to the whole thing. but like I said I just need to take a look at everything and stop speculating.

WOW well keep me informaned, i think i want to go with the 203 box, i really do not have a whole lot of machinenig stuff but if you tell me how to do it i can farm it out to Moser. just keep updated, it be 302-NP435 (hopefully 203) to D 20

I have the new output shaft from WH and it is sick! its a monster, get the open kit for like 400 bucks

From the looks of the pics of 203's that I found on the wonderfull internet. and from the messing around I did at home a few months back

I think the np435 will fit right up perfectly to the 203 using the adapter I have already I will just need to drill and tap some holes to bolt them together.

Then I'm guessing I will send the 203 shaft to get it modified to fit into the dana300

with some measurments and an extra dana 300 input shaft I should be ablt to get that done.

Then it's all about figuring out two to secure the two cases. I'll probably just use a bigol piece of aluminum or steel then go to work wigh the drill press dremel tool and a die grinder.

Oh and to make it all fit and still have a rear driveshaft in my CJ-7 I will move the motor as far forward as possible. I'll toss the into the garbage and I'll try to run an electric fan in front of the radiator.

WELDMAN,
this sounds like a great plan


I was talking to a contact about getting JR coots to sell a Do it your self kit, with the shaft and adapter plate, that way you do all the t-case cutting and save some serous cash.

if anything comes of this could you please post
thanks