Here is the deal--e--oh

Pendy sent me some V8 mounts I need to weld on my galvy 110 frame.

The 110 frame is 5mm (not a typo it is extra HD from designa)

All I have is a hobart 135 so I am planning on cranking it up pretty high.

My thoughts: Weld a plate onto the back of the mount kinda like you see with new outriggers, bigger than the size of the mount, I was thinking 1/8in stock. Then weld plate onto chassis. More weld area on the chassis, no inside upside down welding for ron, makes up for the slight loss of material from when pendy cut it off, everyone's happy right? :smokin:

Or should I just weld the mount on direct?

Also I am thinking amout mocking up the engine and tacking it in, or should I just measure and rely on the oversized engine mount holes to make up any fudge factor?

Input?

Grind ALL the zinc off from where you will be welding, crank the welder up all the way, put on some heavy duty breathing gear (zinc fumes are nasty) and weld.

You know you should have gotten designa chassis to fit the mounts before galvanising (but I'm sure you knew that already).

I found the chassis from another owner for $700 shipped and at the time I thought I wanted a 300TDi :)

so you say no plating? Zinc is nasty so I hold my breath.

so you say no plating? Zinc is nasty so I hold my breath.

I think you will get a better weld without plating - and that is the way they are welded on at the factory and they hold up fine - make sure you weld both sides of each part of the bracket though - and make sure you remove 100% of the zinc, any that is there will weaken the weld, besides giving you lung disease. The welder you are using is a MIG isn't it?

Once you have finished get some cold gal (minimum 97% zinc) and paint the mounts and the chassis around the welds (paint inside the chassis if you can get to it too as you will have burnt the zinc off inside).

Grind that stuff off. Welding through zinc sucks. Very hard to get a proper bead too. If stuff starts to taste sweet you'd better cancel your evening plans.

Good luck...

Agreed...Grind it clean. weld it....reeeal nice like.
As for the mock-up, thats what I would do. If you have extra money just laying around getting dusty, you could buy a lightweight plastic block (if available) to make the mock up easier. :)

I've also heard if you're welding near galvanizing to drink LOTS of milk. Helps with the effects of breathing zinc fumes or something like that.

Good luck.

Jeebus! Forget the milk, just wear a high quality respirator. That stuff is nasty.

I would not weld a plate to the back side. You will throw off the depth. I cut the weld in the middle of the bead when removing those. You should be good just to grind the old bead off. Did the pictures I sent you way back when explain the location well enough? Weld on the inside and outside for strength and milk afterward is good advice. I would cold galvanize afterwards.

Good Luck
JP

Pictures looked good but I think I am going to mock up anyway.

Ok no, plate. I am not looking forward to the inside weld. Upside down--inside yuck.

Mayonnaise is good also for metal poisoning, the EDTA added as a preservative supposedly removes metals in the blood, etc. Sit upwind of the welds, or use a stick welder and a fan. Respirators to remove metal fumes aren't nearly as common, nor available as solvent cartridges are.

I would put a bare block/tranny in place before I did it, but I don't always measure real good. :flipoff2:

Perhaps more importantly, is there another mount arrangement that would work better than the Rover? Maybe something from an SBC could be made to work. Now that I think about it, I wonder if an SBC mount wouldn't bolt right up, given the lineage of our engines (it's been too long since I've even seen an SBC mount-now that I think about it, the mounting isn't similar enough to bolt on).

Here is KC aka buttcrackus galorus doing some yoga manuevers to get my engine mounts welded on.

Billster