ok i'll admit that i'm new to the 4x4 world and this is my first 4x4 i'm building. my problem i'm seeing with the new ctm u joints is there brutal strenght. i thought the point of a u joint is to be a weak link in the post the u joint stayed intact but snapped the axle to me i would much rather blow a u joint then snap an axle is this illogical or am i just a newbie.:D

I'd check through all the previous posts on this, but basically if you bust a u-joint, your most likely taking an axle anyways, so it is better to waste an axle every now and then vs wasting a u-joint and probably an axle very often. Yes the weak link has been moved, but I would venture to say that in most cases the hub will be the weak link. If your running slugs, then the outer stub shaft will be the weak link. Or in the case of Lance, the cracked knuckle will be the weak link :)

either way, the $150 u-joint will probably save you at least it's worth or more in axles that you don't break because the u-joint doesn't break.

well i have not ever broke a u joint , so how bout it all who have broke a u joint what else snapped in the carnage:D just wondering if this is something i need:D

:D

If you've never broken a spicer joint, why upgrade to ctm's.... ctm joints aren't for everyone. I know I wouldn't waste my money on them if I have never broken a spicer - unfortunately I do break them. usually when a ujoint breaks, it takes the axle yokes with it. With alloy shafts like Warn shafts, if you stop right away you can *usually* prevent the axle from getting fawked up. I have never had an axle failure (Warn axles) without the ujoint failing. Well I take that back, because Warn axle did break when my knuckle broke (and the ujoint didn't).

What also can happen when breaking a ujoint is that the broken pieces can "press" the ball joints right out of the knuckle, causing the wheel to fall off. This almost happened to us in Farmington when Kelly broke Jesse's prototype ujoint. Kelly was trying to climb a wall and the ujoint let go, I couldn't get to the hub to remove the drive flange, so she had to keep driving on the broken axle. It started pushing up on the knuckle and started bending the upper ball joint mount. It didn't break it, but it's apparent that it did crack it. Because It broke completely off a couple weeks ago on a snow run.

thanks lance i see the light ctms are for some severe adbuse:D

is there any way to make a Dana 44 un-breakable? well at least to a certain extent. I know you can break anything, but you know what I mean, when will the Dana 44 be at its peak to being un-breakable?:question: :skull:

Originally posted by Jeepmangled87
is there any way to make a Dana 44 un-breakable? well at least to a certain extent. I know you can break anything, but you know what I mean, when will the Dana 44 be at its peak to being un-breakable?:question: :skull:


If your looking for an unbreakable d44, then you probably need a D60. the cost to build a D44 to a point where it would be reliable as D60 would be up into the costs beyond a D60, and could only be justified by an extremely fat bank account, sponsors, and an ultra light rig.

The D44 will be at its peak with fresh ball joints, good steering geometry,(maybe some after market knuckles if they arent an arm and leg), Warn axle shafts, and CTM joints. I would also suggest a full carrier locker such as the Detroit or ARB. Also steering stopswhich stop the steering shy of binding the joints.
I would suggest running the Warn Premium hubs, since I know from experience that they will grenande before anything else,(and they are easily warrantied, because the U joints always let go before). Drive flanges or drive slugs, may take the breakage to the stub shaft or even the R&P.
You have to consider that the CTMs are the answer to making the D44 as reliable as it can be, not to match the strength of a D60.