OK, I was planing on building a D60 center with Corp-14 bolt outers and hubs. 35-spline shafts and 6-lub pattern.

However, I was talking with an old time axle builder, and he said why not just use the 14-bolt whole. I said because the pinion is lower and I don't want it in the dirt, he said BS, if anything its like a 1/4"

He wasn't sure, and it was rainy and crappy out so we didn't feel like going out and measuring the 14 in his truck, and a 60 he had laying around.

SO, does anyone have a measurement for the two?? It there any compelling reasons to make the hybrid, or just run the Corp 14-bolt? *I* like the hybrid, but I want to do this on "somewhat" of a budget, so the less work the better.

It will have a Spool so the Detroit cost difference is not an issue. Can you get an ARB for the 14-bolt? (my other locker choice)


is the 14-bolt pinion truly allot lower, I know the case it bigger, but a grinder and welder can take care of that :D :D


thanks
-mark

i have both and although i havn't measured it i would say the 14bolt has a higher pinion than the standard dana60. the 14bolts pumpkin size is larger but you are right, a grinder can take care of alot of it. i say just run a 14bolt. just my op. :D

I measured them both, and came to the conclusion that running the 14 bolt would be cheaper in the long run. Especially since Pic N Pull parts are a dime a dozen. The pumpkin on the 14bolt is HUGE there is no denying that but shaving it would make up for it in a big way.

I'll be running a 60 front and a 14 bolt rear here soon. :D

I just shaved my 14 bolt where it is rounded off all the around the bottom. Some cut the bottom off, turn the ring gear down blah blah blah, but I used a sawzall to cut off a little over 1/2", then went to town with a big ass grinder. I would go with the 14 bolt, get a hold of Shaker http://www.geocities.com/shakerbuilt/ get u a disc brake kit, then have a bad ass cheap axle. I welded the spiders, and droped in a set of 5.13's. Good luckI can try and get some pics of mine soon.

I am going to be running a 14-bolt here soon. In comparison to my matching 60 front, it hangs down a LITTLE lower, which I made up for with the grinder. The pinions are about the same. The big difference is the pinion length, though. My 14-bolt pinion length is A LOT shorter than my d60 front pinion. That means a longer driveshaft. I'm a big fan of the 14-bolt as a cheap, plentiful, 1-ton, full floter swap. Plus, I've seen guys thrash the hell out of them with 42" tires and HUGE V8's and they don't break.

J. J.

another cool thing about the 14bolt is that if you want a narrower axle you can get the cab and chassis dually rear and they are only 63" wide. the standard single and dual read axles are 67" so there is a difference. there are a few on this board running the 63" wide version. i'm one of them :D i just picked up my second c&c dually rear. i bent the current housing in a roll over last april. the new one is to replace it.

Actually, the REALLY cool thing about the 14 bolt is you can just switch the cab and chassis hubs with the full width hubs and have an axle with two available WMS-WMS widths....67" and 63".

The housing is the same, and same axle shafts.

The only other thing ( than the hubs) that is different is the placement of the brake mounting plate bracket. But if you are doing a disc set up, you can easily move the caliper bracket to where you want it anyway.

I am going to use the C&C hubs for now in my YJ, but I can always use the other hubs in the future to go full width.

Charly

How do I do the disk brakes and still use the hubs? I am unclear about this. I assume I can run disks and still have a full floater. How are the hubs and axls assembled?:confused:

You just knock the studs out of the hubs and seperate the brake drum from the hub. Then you buy a 3/4 ton Chevy front axle rotor and press the studs through the rotor and into the hub, to attach the two together.
Place the hub and rotor on the spindle to lacate the position of the rotor, mark and tack then weld the brackets. Run your brake lines and your done.
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-588342-MVC-021S.JPG
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-588346-MVC-017S.JPG
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-588344-MVC-003S14B.JPG
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-588345-MVC-010S14B.JPG

Charly,
That is very good point, you can go to a wider wheel base just by going to the other hubs. And moving the disc brackets.In fact if you planned it right you could make bracket mounts, so that you could go to either hub and just unbolt and move the brake brackets.

Ok I see now...


I was curious on this whole 63/67" / cab-n-chassis thing.... but I see it now with your post H8.

Your hubs stick out MUCH farther than the hubs on my 3/4T GMC (corp 14 bolt rear). i.e much more room between the wheel mounting flange and the axle bolt flange.

hmm... very informative, it will now be MUCH easier to look for those hubs (or axle) at the bone yard... thanks


Anyone have a problem with the longer hubs hitting rocks and such? That is one thing I liked about the 14 ends on my GMC, they didn't stick out very far.


Thanks guys for the info, and keep it comming. I would really like someone to come up with pinion measurements..

Gee thanks guys... Now I think I want a 14 again...

you had me talked out of them last year.. But now I am back to wanting one again... :flipoff2:

I can never stick to a plan of attack on this thing. :D

Lets see, now all I have to buy is;

An ARB for the 14
disc Brakes for the 14
High Angle driveshaft
Shave the 14 pig
Shave the 14 ring gear
Buy a Dana 300 Tcase and Flip kit
Buy a heavy shaft for the 300
Buy a Tera low
Buy a T case disc Brake
Lengthen the front shaft
Build my RR 44 into a front 44
Re-gear it
8 lug it
Buy 8 lug Beadlocks
Buy 42" swampers
And I am ready to rumble! :D Thanks that didn't cost much.

:flipoff2:

Belly,
One of the best things about the 14 bolt, other than they are dirt cheap and nearly indestructable, is the cost of building them.
It is very common to find them with 4.56 gears, and often axle shops and junk yards will have used factory sets. They are very easy to set up, because they have an adjustable backlash. Spare axle shafts are nearly free, and the shafts are the same for the C&C or standard version. Not that spares are usualy neccessary with a 1.69" axle shaft diameter, (splines are 30).
But, the best thing is, because the stock carrier is a monsterouse hunk of an assembly, you do not change the carrier with a Detroit,(its basicly a massive lunch box locker). So detroit only cost about $325(and thats if you dont shop around).
My disk brake conversion didnt cost over $150 ($40 each for rotors, $40 for loaded calipers, plus about $20 for brake lines.

I had about $1000 into my entire 14 build up, including cost of the axle, gears, locker, disc brakes, and new lug nuts. Not bad for a full floater, rear axle with discs, 4.56 gears and a detroit.

And as far as I know, ARB isn't making an ARB for the FF 14 Bolt.........yet. I heard it should be out soon. Anyone else hear anymore on the ARB?

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite

Anyone have a problem with the longer hubs hitting rocks and such? That is one thing I liked about the 14 ends on my GMC, they didn't stick out very far.

i run a 10" wheel and do not have any problem with rocks hitting the hubs. my front dana60 lockouts stick out further than the c&c rear 14bolt hubs do.

This is a very eye opening thread, I was planning on building up a semi floater 60 with 5 on 5.5. My bigest problem is what will be a very short steep rear driveshaft, the much shorter pinion of the 14 bolt could be a big help. If an ARB comes out for the 14 bolt it could make the deal. Does anyone know about what the weight difference is between the centersections of a 14 bolt and a 60? Would the 14 bolt be a good candidate for shaving the bottom and welding in a plate for extra clearance?

Originally posted by DownunderBender
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-588344-MVC-003S14B.JPG


hey H8, are those the caliper brackets from aamfg ?

- jack