Does anybody have pictures or ideas how to run a U bolt on a front D60. I broke both studs on my Dodge 60 had to drill/torch out my old studs then I welded and braced the new studs and I pulled those out to. My friend put what he calls the "Clampet Bolt" on and that is a winch cable with clamps on each end but that doesn't last for more than 1 trip.

say what?:confused: :confused:

i think what he is saying is he broke the 2 bolts that hold the spring plate that screw into the housing on the passenger side diff. you kinow were there is the 1 u bolt and the 2 bolts into the housing. i understand what yah are asking but havnt run into this problem

yOU NEED TO USE ONLY GRADE 8 STUDS AND THIS WILL SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM;)

Freshman is similar to Camo but on the FJ40 side of the toyota market this guy will break anything.

I used grade 8 studs with gussets and pulled it all out of the housing along with some of the casting. I don't see any way to get new studs in now.:roxy:

Originally posted by baddbilt
yOU NEED TO USE ONLY GRADE 8 STUDS AND THIS WILL SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM;)

umm this won't solve the problem necessarily. I have seen grade 8 bolts used in this scenario and break just like the factory ones. I personally broke grade 8's in one of my chevy 60 fronts which uses a larger diameter bolt than the dodge 60.If i recall the dodge 60 uses a smaller diameter bolt that threads into the housing9at least on the older housing equipped with external lockouts) compared to a chevy 60 which is one problem. One thing to check is if your spring pack is thicker than what came from the factory.If so that is a problem. The housing was designed so that the spring plate rested on top of the housing when tightened down(the flat spot on the housing) with the load placed on the head of the bolt..When you use a thicker spring pack it raises the plate up off the housing.In effect this places a side load on the bolt at the top of the threaded portion of the housing which results in the bolts breaking off flush with the housing.When the plate is down against the housing the head of the bolt takes the load.A way to solve this problem is to fab up a u-bolt or make a "spacer" plate that goes between the spring plate and the housing. This will help relieve the side load on the bolt at the top of the housing.This is what I did on one of my chevy 60's.On this particular 60 I have never broken a bolt like I did on my other sans a spacer plate.To see a picture(although it is very difficult to see) look on page 44 of the 2001 December issue of Peterson's 4 wheel and offroad. You will be able to barely make out the spacer on my 60f between the housing and spring plate.The spacer is a little less cumbersome to make compared to doing the u-bolt set-up although the u-bolt will work as well.Hope this all helps.:D

Nice truck ONETONWILLYSANDS10! I cant make out your spacer but I understand what you did. My front springs are taller, I am running a pretty big shim because my springs are angled. I don't recall what size bolts chevys have but the Dodge are 9/16. I need to come up with a U bolt idea because there is no way to put studs back in.

Thanks Monkey boy for giving the PB a little intro on me. I just got this high tech type writer thing and just starting to learn how to use it.:roxy: :roxy:

Take it to your local machine shop. Not the local automotive machine shop though. Just a regular one. They can fix it, I gaurantee it.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Freshman
[B]Nice truck ONETONWILLYSANDS10! I cant make out your spacer but I understand what you did. My front springs are taller, I am running a pretty big shim because my springs are angled. I don't recall what size bolts chevys have but the Dodge are 9/16. I need to come up with a U bolt idea because there is no way to put studs back in.

thanx. Forward me your e-mail address and I e-mail you a picture of my u-bolt set-up on my willys truck.:D

Sounds like either a u-bolt or time for some welding to fill the hole or you can upsize the bolt if you have room? Otherwise its time to pull and machine new threads after you fill the hole with new metal. You can always stud the hole and weld it in place...but this is the last resort effort or I've seen people drill it out and insert a plug(press fit and expands slightly) then weld it inplace.....sorry for the ramble!

I broke the same bolts, Grade 8. 2 times. Both times thay spun out by hand, Thank god. So I put in grade 5 and have not broke one since. the G8 does not give . The G5 bolts do.

my friend made the spacer oneton is talking about. should work, we'll see..........

Thanks for your help guys but hear is what I found out about threading in new studes. After they broke off flush at the housings, I couldn't get them out so I torched out the old studs and welded up the holes so I could re tap them. Well, the block that they screew into is harden steel or some thing and made my weld become very hard. I put the housing in a drill press and tried a piolt hole with a new carbite drill bit and it did not go down but for a few scratches. That is when I used my plasma to cut the block and weld in new studs, now it pulled out a couple chunks out of the block.:roxy: