: jeep hauler/trailer??


spwest2
02-09-2002, 10:29 PM
looking to get on soon, what would you look for?

Cutter
02-10-2002, 07:50 AM
be sure to get brakes, and double axles, and NEW trailer tires.

KS Toy
02-10-2002, 08:35 AM
Originally posted by Cutter
be sure to get brakes, and double axles, and NEW trailer tires.

Definitely. Also, I like one with a beavertail,dovetail or whatever you want to call it. You know where the last 2 feet slope down.

Cutter
02-10-2002, 08:43 AM
I just welded a trailer jack on both rear corners and crawl up and down off the back. Saves me the time to pull the ramps out!

Robeakin
02-10-2002, 02:13 PM
To be honest with you, you should support the rear of your trailer when loading and unloading even if you do use ramps. Well, I guess if it's a light rig it is okay not to support the trailer....

spwest2
02-10-2002, 09:15 PM
I thought i like the dovetail thig until i though of off road and going over dips and speed bumps, lowers the angle and i am able to crawl on to regular deck without prbs, the support or the rear of the trailer is wel taken and i thik it should be a must. what about tubing, c channel ect. come awwn you guys should know about this not just you need a rear support thing. lets talk the goods and bads of trailers out ther.

pmurf1
02-10-2002, 10:06 PM
I am currently building mine right now. I got a set of plans off Ebay from a guy who builds them. Tufindustries.com I think is his website. Was well worth the $25. I'm just waiting on my 3500# torsion axles, hopefully they'll be ready this week.
I'm making mine a true 20' flat deck with a 2' dovetail feature and a hydraulic ram at the front to tilt the deck for easy loading. It's 82" wide between the fenders so my rig has plenty of room to grow. The dovetail is nice, especially on lower and longer trailers so you don't drag it over everything. Mine is made of 3/16" 2x4 square tubing for the main outside rails, .120 wall 2x3 every 18" across the floor. The deck will be 1/8" steel diamond plate. I also sunk in a 10" box in the floor for storing jackstands, floorjacks, spare parts, etc. It'll have flush mount locks. Also planned are recessed tiedowns, LED tailights, a license plate holder with a small strut to keep it up, and some false beadlock looking rims. I'm also gonna get some either D or E load rated tires, not the $30 cheapo's that always seem to blowout.
I'm going to have probably $1500 into materials by the time it's said and done, but I know it's a quality built piece. A couple buddies have trailers that cost them that off the showroom floor and I still had to weld on them to fix poor quality. A couple of them sway so bad at highway speed it's scary to drive behind them.
If you go looking, get tandem axles, at least one with brakes. Crawl under the thing and look to see if the welds are on all sides, not just where you can see them. Make sure the fender backs are on right, no waves that would make it pop off and take out a tire (seen it). Just look for overall quality, it's easy to spot if you take a few minutes to look. Cheaper usually means it was built quick and with not as high end stuff on it like tires, couplers, lights, etc.

JackA
02-11-2002, 06:19 AM
That's all fun rippin' on my trailer. But you think 82'' wide gives you room to grow? My rear tires are 80'' outside to outside, same as yours. 2'' is not much room to grow. What are you going to tow that beast with anyways? A semi? :D

Land Crusher
02-11-2002, 06:38 PM
19 foot v nose enclosed trailer
8 inch extra heigth
dual on board baterys
110 converter
shelves for extra parts
whinch point in front of trailer
2 side doors
2 5000lb torflex axels
45 gallon gas tank whith 12v pump
4 5000lb hold down points
2 celing vents with 12volt fans.
electric toung jack.

Land Crusher
02-11-2002, 06:44 PM
If I was to build one

I would copy a few that peoppl have made around here.

single 6000lb axel no springs

basicaly you drive up over the axel and
it sits close to your doors then you have
4 pads that are welded to the axel and your
tires sit on them.
whish I had a picture.