: Battery Relocation ????


TrevorXJ
02-10-2002, 08:54 AM
Alright, I want to move my battery to the back. Due to the fact I want to install a York. This is in an XJ of course. I have 1ga. and 1/0 wire also have some 4ga and 2 ga. Question is, due I have to run all the wires to the front. One for the starter one for the relay and power box, one for the ground, and another to the block. Are can I get one of those distrubution centers. That way, I run one hot and one ground to that and then connect everything up front to that.

Thanks if it sounds confusing sorry. Just let me know how to due it.

:flipoff2:

Cutter
02-10-2002, 09:02 AM
I run my pos. to a power distrubution point(but I DO run my winch pos. to the batt.). And I ground to the frame by the battery (and engine ground to frame up front). I use 1/0 welding cable. Wires have never gotten hot to the touch.

orbitcat
02-10-2002, 09:04 AM
IMO

Use the 1/0 hot wire running from the back to the front with a distribution block. Ground the battery as close as possible to the frame. You may need to double check other grounds. Body to engine, body to frame, etc.. to make sure the chassis has minimal resistance between grounding points.

The most important thing. Make sure that hot lead is protected. If it grounds out on anything. It is a good chance it will start a fire and burn up your vehicle.

Also, If you have a winch, you may have a small voltage drop and lose a little power. It doesn't take a big voltage drop to notice a power loss because it takes a lot more amps.

Thant's the reason I suggested the 1/0 wire right off the bat.

TrevorXJ
02-10-2002, 03:18 PM
Okay, thanks for the info.

I have been looking for power disbution blocks, but cant seem to find any. I have went to SummitRacing and Jegs. Could I just run the main wire from the battery to the PDU of the XJ and then to the starter from there. Also if I understand this I should run the ground to the frame close to the battery, then use the frame to ground the PDU. I will try to draw what it looks like now, so you will be able to help.

Thanks again

:flipoff2:

Cutter
02-10-2002, 03:24 PM
try here www.wranglernw.com they call em 'insulated terminal stud assemblies on page 33 of the catalog (and power dis. blocks in the index(?))all are rated at 400 amps. they have both surface mount and pass thru. My cat. a few years old, so I don't know the current prices.

Cutter
02-10-2002, 03:34 PM
http://www.wranglernw.com/commerce/full/30-101CRtop.jpg at the link above, do an advanced search with part num. 30-101CR...it's a PAIN to find stuff on that site with out a cat. in your lap...thats the num. for the pic. If you want a pass-thru style its part num 30-101AR. These are for the RED ones, they also come in black

Cutter
02-10-2002, 03:37 PM
that ones $6.60 and this one is $10.90
http://www.wranglernw.com/commerce/full/30-100AR.jpg

TrevorXJ
02-10-2002, 03:42 PM
Thanks a lot Cutter. Here is a drawing I did just to show how it looks now. Only have MSPaint so dont dog the drawing.
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v0/2/62/83/31026283KzNWsrmPuZ_ph
:flipoff2:

Cutter
02-10-2002, 03:49 PM
you left out the engine to frame ground (you probably have the stock braid still, but another is good) Thats pretty much how my TJ is hooked up. (except for all the winch and second battery cables) Looks good....what a lame peice o' artwork....whats wrong, ya got two broke arms? (I just hadda):D

TrevorXJ
02-10-2002, 04:34 PM
Thanks for the heads up. I know the pic isnt that great, but only took me two minutes. While we are on this subject, I plan on adding a fuse block. Just not sure which one I found this one at the above link.
http://www.wranglernw.com/commerce/full/13-150.jpg

but I am also considering one of these, 30 amp relay, prewired, 7 slots, weatherproofed.
http://store.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/PRF-70207.jpg


Which one due you think would be better.:flipoff2:

Cutter
02-10-2002, 06:57 PM
I run a Painless Curkitboss(sp?) 7 fuse waterproof (just like the pic), It really makes adding elec. stuff easy.

redruM
02-11-2002, 09:10 AM
i did the painless too it is real nice

orbitcat
02-11-2002, 10:37 PM
Something I forgot to mention earlier. You should get an Optima type battery. Some of the standard lead acid batteries vent heavily and can cause corrosion in the vehicle. I have personally seen a battery vent enough to eat out the battery box and cause corrosion on the metal inside the car.

Cutter
02-12-2002, 05:44 AM
good call, I just assume everybody runs an optima:p

TrevorXJ
02-12-2002, 06:59 AM
Cutter, your assumtion was right. I run a yellow top Optima. so no worries there.

Thanks for a the help found the 7 circuit painless for $44 if you need one go to http://www.expertoffroad.com their site is pretty new but just give them a call or email. I was surprised that when I emailed them Sunday theky Emailed me back the same day.

Later
:flipoff2:

milkman
02-12-2002, 11:48 AM
Trevor..

What else do you have under the hood?...I have a YORK, ARB compressor and Optima battery under the hood... I DID remove the airbox though... the battery is mounted on its side were the air box used to be...(cant mount it striaght up because the battery will hit the hood.. I actually used the factory battery tray and homebrewed some spacers for it to sit level and also homebrewed a Keeper ratchet strap to hold the battery down.. and in case of emergency on the trail if the battery needs to come out... no tools required(except for the terminals)..

I had a new battery cable made(2ga)..and my winch cable still goes to the battery.. works greats for 2 years now...

Milkman