more than 50* out of a tube notcher

[flexj]

Has anyone figured out how to get more than a 50* cope out of a tube notcher such as the TN100? Or any other ideas using a drill press.

Thanks.

[CartsXJ]

That is going to be a tough one, but if you have access to a bridgeport or some other type of milling machine, just get a ballend mill of the size you want and jig it up and run it through. Had to get a 75 degree fishmouth cut for a mini-baja rear suspension design at WIT and this was the only way we could think of to get a clean cut without using a deck-grinder. Worked like a charm :grinpimp:, but just to warn you large ball end mills aren't cheap :eek:

[florida4x4]

but just to warn you large ball end mills aren't cheap :eek:

yeah I was gonna say :eek: too. mcmaster shows a 1" for a little over $100 and enco shows the 1" cheap-o for $20 and some change.. havent found a 1.75 or 1.5. Find it and it will work though...

[dhoffroad]

time to bust out the grinder and go old school.

[Danger Ranger]

time to get your marking pen and grinder out and do it like a man :flipoff2:

a cut off tool works good too.

[vikingsven]

Plasma cutter.

Also remember seeing a nice notcher in one of the rags a while back for $275 that went up to 60* IIRC.

[CJeep77]

I know this has been listed before, but here is a program (http://geek.casaforge.com/code/newform_m2.php) that will print out your cut on paper and you just tape it to your tube and grind away!

[flexj]

time to get your marking pen and grinder out and do it like a man :flipoff2:

a cut off tool works good too.

Aw, that's too much like work. I'm working on a jig for the drill press. We'll see how it turns out.

[vikingsven]

Post some pics if you get it to work nicely.

[geargrinder]

I got my 1.5" ball end mill for $10 off Ebay. They are out there.



:)

[JeepinDoug]

Yep eBay. Look for roughing end mills, they're pretty easy to sharpen and very durable. I have several I've tortured for years.
I'm looking for a Bridgeport right now and have plans on coping ends at any angle along with coping on a radius using a rotary table. Once you have a machine like a Bridgeport there are many ways to cheat the limits of ordinary garage tools.
Now I just need to find the damn Bridgeport.

[flexj]

It would be nice to have a mill...and a lathe...and a plasma table...and the list goes on.
I guess I'll have to work with what I have for now. I'll work on my jig tomorrow and see how it comes.

[flexj]

Well, here is the prototype...

I need to make a clamp for it yet and try it out. As it sits, it will only do a 60* cope, I need to make the support pieces longer if I need to go steeper.

[kwrangln]

Isnt the main limiting factor the depth of the holesaw? Great you have a jig, but once the holesaw bottoms out you have to pull the piece, and rejig to finnish. Or am I missing something here?

[JeepinDoug]

Isnt the main limiting factor the depth of the holesaw? Great you have a jig, but once the holesaw bottoms out you have to pull the piece, and rejig to finnish. Or am I missing something here?

It does become a slight problem but an easy fix is with a sawzall. You don't even need to pull the tube out.
The big problem I see with the jig is rigidity. A hole saw, though offers the least amount of resistance, throws alot of torque into the work piece. That jig needs to be solid as hell or else the saw will force the work piece over and and cinch up on the saw dragging the belts or tossing the jig off the table.