I mainly work on jeeps but my dd needs a new clutch (or at least I think it does). It has 78K of fairly hard driving some LA traffic and hills. Does this sound too soon or is it about right?

I am looking for any kind of write-ups or info on how to go about doing this. I have replaced clutches on other trucks but nothing this new. Being that chilton and haynes have had their thumbs up their @$$es for the last 4 years there isn't any kind of repair manual other then the $400 FSM. Any help would be appreciated. Also if someone knows of a forum that might be more geared toward the smaller trucks that would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kirk

Your approach to R&Rn the clutch depends on whether your Ranger is 2wd or 4wd. If it's 2wd, personally I'd drop the tranny. If its 4wd, I'd pull the engine. With 4wd, the t-case throws the tranny/t-case weight balance off and makes it a PITA to drop yourself if you dont have a lift and tranny jack.

Either way, it's not a complicated job.

If you'd like to check out some sites more focused on Fords try www.therangerstation.com or www.ford-trucks.com

Good luck!!

its a 2wd. I have a rack and tranny jack. I just didn't know if there were any special tricks or ways to do the job.

~Kirk

You've got it made then.

Basically, pull the shift lever and boots off, pull the slave cylinder off, drop the drive shaft, unplug the reverse light switch, remove the bellhousing bolts, support the tranny with the tranny jack and then drop the cross member. Viola'. You're pretty much there aside from possibly having exhaust in the way.

Be sure to have the flywheel resurfaced before the new clutch goes on. Also make sure to pick up a clutch alignment tool if your new clutch kit doesn't come with one. About the only other piece of advice I can think of right now is to replace the pilot bushing/bearing and the throwout bearing while you're in there. You will most likely regret it if you don't. Most decent clutch kits come with all that anyways. Just make sure...

If its 4wd, I'd pull the engine. With 4wd, the t-case throws the tranny/t-case weight balance off and makes it a PITA to drop yourself if you dont have a lift and tranny jack.
Good luck!!why pull the motor, that seems like alot more work with all the wiring and stuff. not looking to argue, but I've always unbolted the tcase from the trans and the then dropped the trans... I won't pull a motor if I don't have to.. my 2 cents..

Well, I recommended pulling the motor for a 4wd assuming a lift wasn't available. I HATE working on my back and realistically, pulling an engine on many newer vehicles is easier than it looks, especially pickups. Most people don't have lift at their disposal to make working underneath more "enjoyable". I guess I've been spoiled. I suppose it's all in personal preference.

anyone know how to remove the line that goes into the tranny that opperates the slave cylinder?

~Kirk

Well, I recommended pulling the motor for a 4wd assuming a lift wasn't available. I HATE working on my back and realistically, pulling an engine on many newer vehicles is easier than it looks, especially pickups. Most people don't have lift at their disposal to make working underneath more "enjoyable". I guess I've been spoiled. I suppose it's all in personal preference.good point, I don't have a lift in my garage...

anyone know how to remove the line that goes into the tranny that opperates the slave cylinder?

~Kirk

You have to push that white plastic collar into the fitting on the slave cly. that will release the locking tabs. they sell a special tool to do the job, but i use a u shaped chuck tool that comes with most die grinders( fits perfectly) In a pinch you try using an open end wrench to push that collar in or as a last resort a small screw driver.