Any small engine gurus around here? I've rebuilt gas/diesel motors before, but don't have a clue when it comes to the small ones. I have a Craftsman gas driven compressor, and the fawker won't start. The dogs were fighting outside, and knocked the thing over. I tried holding onto the plug wire, and it didn't juice me, so I don't think it's getting spark. What produces the spark on this? Any advice, or even a site that explains how this crap operates would be great!

wtf at least tell what motor is on it?

lol, sorry. All I know is that it's a Briggs & Stratton 5 HP. It's either gonna be model 130200 or 132200. It's one of those pull-cord deals, like a lawnmower.

take the front cover off. there will be a crank trigger coil pack with the pulg wire coming off the top. check the gap between the crank and pack, .025 ish.

take the front cover off. there will be a crank trigger coil pack with the pulg wire coming off the top. check the gap between the crank and pack, .025 ish.

Okay, I pulled the cover off and measured where I think you're talking about. I can slide at least .067 in the gap. The motor has been running rough the last few times I used it. I'm guessing it finally had it. It doesn't look adjustable to me, so I guess I need to buy a new part. If the pic comes out, I measured the point where it's circled. If I did the wrong spot, let me know.


http://mercury.walagata.com/w/krom/air2.jpg

Okay, I pulled the cover off and measured where I think you're talking about. I can slide at least .067 in the gap. The motor has been running rough the last few times I used it. I'm guessing it finally had it. It doesn't look adjustable to me, so I guess I need to buy a new part. If the pic comes out, I measured the point where it's circled. If I did the wrong spot, let me know.


http://mercury.walagata.com/w/krom/air2.jpg
im not a 100% on the measurement but it will slide upn down. loosen the 2 5/16 screws a little. you want to measure at the ends of the coil where they come closest to the crank. right spot, did you check them both? they should be even. it looks a little rusted, mabey clean the ends with some sand paper/emery cloth.

what side did it land on? did the cover cut the plug wire?is the carb bowl dented? just some thoughts.

Looked at it again, and the gap spacing seems uniform all around. I can't slide it down much, because the bracket (to the right of the coil on the pic) is already down far enough without bottoming out. It fell on the opposite side, where the belt guard is. Nothing looks bent/broken.

Imma go to town tomarrow and see about a new part. Man, finding info on the proper gapping is impossible. The part number on the coil doesn't even exist when I try to look it up with online retailers. Hopefully replacing it will work. Thanks for the help, trk :beer:

Gaps .010. Use a feeler guage.
Gap it against the magnets, not the rusty wheel.
put the cover on,
check fire
no fire
take cover off
unhook small black wire going to back side of coil pack to the kill switch
put cover back on
if have fire its somewhere else than the coil pack, switched fucked up ect..
have fire and compression its fuel.
you said it ran shitty and finally quit
sounds like fuel problem
may need diaphram and a new tank gasket
try a new spark plug
all ideas. i work on this crap all day.

if its an older one

pull the flywheel and check the points and condencer

Okay, I put it all back together and followed your instructions. As far as gapping against the "magnets", I assumed the bracket was the magnets, and gapped both sides of the horseshoe. To check for spark, I hooked up a timing light to the wire, and started yanking the cord. It lights up when I pull. It's sparking. I have the air drains open, and hear air escaping when I yank the cord. I assume I have compression, or it wouldn't be producing? Also, the switch is probably good, or does it need further testing? I'm guessing it's the plug, or fuel system now? :confused:

dump a small amount of gas down the carb and see if it starts

try a new/difrent plug

I had a plug on my honda xl350 that would not work under compression but it did work whene restiong on the cylinder head :mad3: :mad3: :mad3: :rolleyes:

put a plug in it.
take the air cleaner off
try and start it with choke. 5 pulls max.
shoot a little bit of CARB CLEANER down the throat of the carb and try to start it.
if it fires and dies its fuel related I would imagine. could be intake valve but probably carb..

Okay, threw a new plug in, and no start until I sprayed the starter fluid down it. I was lookin at it, and I might know the problem, IF the fuel system is suction feed. I don't see any fuel pump, so I'm guessing the carb just sucks it from the tank. Am I correct?

yeah its a diaphram pump id imagine.
should be a cover on the side of the carb on the exhaust side.
should have spring, spring cap, and a diaphram
get a kit, pn either 272538 or 270026 i think, could be wrong too.
reinstall and try it. if nothing take the adjusting screw on the other side of the carb out and blow it out with a little air, try again

Okay, I'll go ahead and do that if I need to. Coming out of the carb, there's a tube going to the motor. It's hard to see, but the 90 degree elbow there has a crack in it. I'm hoping it's causing an air leak, and preventing suction. I'll change it out as soon as I get the part, and if it doesn't work, I'll do what you suggested. I should be able to handle it from here (hopefully). Thanks for your help Jim!