Just sitting here playing with the idea of putting together a doubler setup when I get around to doing a motor/tranny swap later on.

Any guesses how long the 203/205 set up is and how the fairly long Scout W/B will handle it? the plan would be caddy 425/th400/203/205. Any thoughts or experience here? I know I can use some extra length in the front driveshaft...it is about 27" now. Of course some of it depends on where I locate the motor, but I would try to run it fairly far forward to help keep things reasonable.

I really enjoyed the T98/Tera low d20 on the last run but I fear i will lose a bit of the flexibility when I go to the auto. The idea of the doubler set-up appeals to me. I may be able to swing a Klune, but they are pricy.

Web wheelin, I know, but I like to plan ahead.

I setup my 79 IH with a 727/203/jeep300 and it works well. the rear shaft is a little short but still reasonable.

I setup my 79 IH with a 727/203/jeep300 and it works well. the rear shaft is a little short but still reasonable.

Do you remember the finished length of the driveshaft? (yoke to yoke distance)

The 203/205 from offroad design is 21.5" long. The T400 is about 29" long with the short tailshaft. The 425 will also move everything back a few inches as it's a little longer than the 345.

I figure you will have about a 22-24" long rear driveshaft depending on the amount of lift and how far back you move the rear diff. Shorter u-joint life, but it's feasible.

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A Klune setup wouldn't be much shorter.

Turbo 400 @24.750"
tailhousing @ 4"
Klune @ 6.5"
Spacer @ 0.75"
Mounting Foot @ 0.25"
NP205 @ 13"
Total = 49.25"

I probably have thge longest SII drivetrain of anyone see my sig. My rear shaft will be about 18 inches. Not as bad as it sounds. I have a 3 inch BL and my drivetrain is tilted several degrees which really helps the rear driveshaft angle. Front will have to have a CV. My rough guess is that you will be about 3 inches shorter in trans length, and another 3 inches shorter by using a 205.

This is my setup. I have the stock Scout T-19 with a shortened Ford output shaft with homemade adapters. The tranny is mounted in the stock location with a Ford 203 box and a Ford 205 mounted upside down. My rearend is a Rockwell moved back 5 inches from stock and the front moved 15 inches forward to clear the tires on the firewall and have a better approach angle.
http://members.cox.net/jtolly/images/slipscomb/images/slipscomb023.jpg
These are the shafts that I made. The front had to be narrow to clear the 3 link setup in the fron but still able to use the 1410 joint for strength.
http://members.cox.net/jtolly/images/slipscomb/images/slipscomb034.jpg
Front driveshaft angle:
http://members.cox.net/jtolly/images/slipscomb/images/slipscomb036.jpg
Rear shaft and exhaust:
http://members.cox.net/jtolly/images/slipscomb/images/slipscomb038.jpg

Good info, y'all. It sounds reasonable. The front driveshaft angle is ok since I did the cut-and-turn. I am SOA on 2.5" hvy duty wrangler (Skyjacker) springs with some reasonable shackles. The lift is up there, but not too out of line. I did move the front axle forward 2" and the rear back 1" just to keep the tires out of the fender wells and gas tanks.

I would have to re-do the rear spring perches on the 14 bolt (no biggie) to get the cv angle right on the rear, but I hope the front d/s angle will be OK. I know it will be less of an angle then it is now, but I hope the front pinion angle won't be pointed too high after the t/case is moved back. It is a c/v at the t-case now. However, I guess I would need to make that a different d/s yoke for the NP205.

Anyway, that is the biggest worry I have....the final front pinion angle. I DO NOT want to re-do that. I wonder if it would be much of an issue if the pinion ended up slightly higher than directly at the t/case? Actually I am just below a straight line now to allow for pinion rotation under load, etc., so maybe it would be OK. Hmmm, have to lay under the truck and look at that a while...if it EVER stops raining.

Really depends on how high your going. As long as you can get oil to the pinion bearings and you have clearance on the oil pan you should be alright. You can redrill the diff cover to take more oil but when the tube seals start to leak, that could pose problems.

Really depends on how high your going. As long as you can get oil to the pinion bearings and you have clearance on the oil pan you should be alright. You can redrill the diff cover to take more oil but when the tube seals start to leak, that could pose problems.

Ah. Perhaps I was not clear. I meant to say that the pinion is higher right now than it will need to be for the doubler set-up. See what I mean? I will not be raising it any more than I am now, but I will not be lowering it either. It will need to run at the angle it ends up at...uhhh...where it ends up....etc.

Use a long stick or pipe to simulate the new driveline angle. What are the angle changes at the pinion yoke at rest and full compression? I think extra upward rotation on the pinion should be OK if you are good at full compression. Mine is front is WAY up and I run a cv.