: A good, non assist M/C, for Disc/Drum?


binderbound
01-03-2005, 06:30 PM
Did the disc swap on my 63 80. Rebuilt the 800 dual resivor M/C. Brakes are still spongy and still getting little bubbles out of the M/C. I re-built the rear wheel cylinders, new hard and rubber lines in the back. Good calipers in the front with new ruber and hard lines. Re-built M/C, lots of bench bleeding. Thought all the air was gone. Bled almost 2 quarts of brake fluid through it. all fitings are tight with no leaks, hoses look good. I think the M/C is the culprit. I cant buy a reman M/C from napa, only kits. Any suggestions for a replacement? Am I off target here? any help would be nice.

Trad Bowhunter Dan
01-03-2005, 06:44 PM
'78 SII reman 1.125 bore. You'll need to oval out the mounting holes just a tad. Bolt right in.

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=BEN&MfrPartNumber=R11494&PartType=230&PTSet=A

Hope that works, but www.partsamerica.com plug in '78 IH Scout II and a Bendix 1 1/8" bore reman, goes for 22.99

MochaMike
01-03-2005, 08:16 PM
I have Waggy D44s front & rear with Disc all the way around.

I used early 70s Ford Mustang MC (72 i think).
It was for a 4 wheel disc, it has a small & large reservoir.

Stops my 80 well (for being manual), and no need for a proportioning valve.

Ben Segrest
01-03-2005, 10:06 PM
When researching something similar, I came across a lot of posts mentioning early vette master cylinders. I'd do some searching to make sure, but I think it was around the 68 year model. As I recall, it was set up for 4 wheel discs, no boost. Don't know if it's right for your application, but worth looking into.

As an aside, have you tried using a vacuum bleeder?

Trad Bowhunter Dan
01-04-2005, 10:06 AM
BTW, I have this conversion on my '65. And it works fine.

RustoleumWhite
01-04-2005, 11:48 AM
is NAPA your only source Dan??

Seems weird they only have rebuilds for SII MC's.


what calipers/brakes are you using front and rear?? SII stuff? If so makes sence to use a SII MC. If your useing GM calipers the SII MC seems to work, but a 1/2T Chevy MC might be a better match (probably almost the exact same MC though).


just thinking out-loud.

mopar800b
01-04-2005, 11:59 AM
I just did the 68 vette conversion on my 71 800. It was a direct bolt in other than running new hard lines. It works real good. I have a GM 60 in the front with dodge 1/2 ton calipers on the rear 14 bolt. Not running a proportioning valve either. I'm real happy with the set up, now I'm looking for a way to make it vacume assist.

binderbound
01-04-2005, 01:44 PM
is NAPA your only source Dan??

Seems weird they only have rebuilds for SII MC's.


what calipers/brakes are you using front and rear?? SII stuff? If so makes sence to use a SII MC. If your useing GM calipers the SII MC seems to work, but a 1/2T Chevy MC might be a better match (probably almost the exact same MC though).


just thinking out-loud.

Re-read my post Mark. They have an SII m/c on the shelf. They no longer carry reman 800 dual res m/c's.

Im using chevy calipers. I need something witha small bore. The 800m/c has a 7/8 bore. the scout II has 1 1/16 bore. Ive been told the small bore works better when un-assisted. the bigger bore takes more leg work. We are using the SII m/c on the comp scout and really arent that impressed with it. The only downer with going mustang or vett m/c is the core charge. I hate spending more money than I have to.

*edit* I only use napa cuz I get a 40% discount. and they are the best we got.

Trad Bowhunter Dan
01-04-2005, 04:07 PM
Re-read my post Mark. They have an SII m/c on the shelf. They no longer carry reman 800 dual res m/c's.

Im using chevy calipers. I need something witha small bore. The 800m/c has a 7/8 bore. the scout II has 1 1/16 bore. Ive been told the small bore works better when un-assisted. the bigger bore takes more leg work. We are using the SII m/c on the comp scout and really arent that impressed with it. The only downer with going mustang or vett m/c is the core charge. I hate spending more money than I have to.

*edit* I only use napa cuz I get a 40% discount. and they are the best we got.

I think you're right on the leg pressure thing. There is no fade however in my pedal pressure. I wouldn't want a weak legged person trying to hold the brakes for ver long though.

Check the Partsamerica.com website and check the different years, one might find a 7/8ths bore for the 22.99 reman.

Diesel Smoke
01-04-2005, 04:41 PM
Re-read my post Mark. They have an SII m/c on the shelf. They no longer carry reman 800 dual res m/c's.

Im using chevy calipers. I need something witha small bore. The 800m/c has a 7/8 bore. the scout II has 1 1/16 bore. Ive been told the small bore works better when un-assisted. the bigger bore takes more leg work. We are using the SII m/c on the comp scout and really arent that impressed with it. The only downer with going mustang or vett m/c is the core charge. I hate spending more money than I have to.

*edit* I only use napa cuz I get a 40% discount. and they are the best we got.

Dan,

If you go want to go with a stang, let me know. K.C. may have an old MC laying around.

Binder
01-04-2005, 06:54 PM
Don't forget you can change the leverage on the brakes by simply changing the location the rod meets with the pedal lever. Drill a couple holes and try it out.

cocco_78
01-04-2005, 06:59 PM
I just swapped in a set of D44's under my 72 SII, disk/drum combo. How will the m/c for the 4 wheel drums work now? If I get that m/c $22.99 will i need a prop valve too?

Trad Bowhunter Dan
01-08-2005, 01:17 PM
I just swapped in a set of D44's under my 72 SII, disk/drum combo. How will the m/c for the 4 wheel drums work now? If I get that m/c $22.99 will i need a prop valve too?

I'd use a prop valve, or a compensation valve to the rear. You need to put 1000-1200 psi on the front calipers, where the drums on the back only need around 700 psi. If you go to disc on the back, then you want 200 more psi on the front vs. the back. This where a compensation valve works really good, you can dial in the amount of pressure between the front and the back.

The proportion valve I used is off a Chevy S10, I had it, so I used it. And it's configuration front to rear was appropriate. I understand that SII prop valves work as well, and are not expensive.

The Fleckster
01-08-2005, 09:30 PM
Napa lists a 1" boar master cyclinder for 1972 Scout 2 and a 1 and 1/8" one. Try the smaller one for less leg pressure.

On the dual master cyclinder you rebuilt, the things usually are pretty pitted and done rebuild well. I recentley as much as this year bought a brand new dual cyclinder master from my local Napa for about $130.

BTW if anyone is getting a Scout 2 master cyclinder i would suggest popping the few extra bucks for a new one. I think they are around $35 verses the 22-$30 the remans are. Cheap insurance as i have gotten a few bad ones from time to time doing brake service for customers and ya never know when it will go out on ya. Also another tip is to suck a bit of fluid through the lines with a mighty vac before bench bleeding the conventional way as it lessenes the chance of the seal inverting inside the boar.

IF all else fails, go hydraboost :)

Hope this helps ya kick some ass in the comps.Beat them Jeeps

binderbound
01-09-2005, 06:03 PM
The 72 stang is working great right now. The only little snag has been getting the brake rod and cylinder to get along. The rod is just a tad too long and it is applying just a slight amount of pressure on the cylinder causing the brakes to drag. Need to find a new rod or make my own. We'll see.

Snoopy
01-09-2005, 07:55 PM
I had to modify Snoopy's MC rod ~ pretty easy taking off material ~ got sander?