i'm just trying to find some info for a friend with a CJ5. He wants wider axles but doesn't want to be as wide as my YJ with full width 44/60. I suggested waggy axles but i think he needs a 60 for the rear. Are there any rear 60's out there that are 61 or smaller? Or will he have to cut a rear down $$$
thanks for any help
and i did search

Here would be my plan. It won't be 61" or narrower but real close. Have him do the front waggy 44 w/8 lug outers. It will measure 2" wider than with 6 lug outers or 1" wider than what 5 lug outers do. Then find a 14 bolt from a 1 ton cab/chassis. Mine measures 62". Shave the housing some, convert to discs(about $130.00) and enjoy.... A Detroit locker fits an open carrier and only costs about $300.00. You can find them with 3.73, 4.10 or 4.56 gears. The carrier break is 4.56. My 14 bolt, 4.56 geared, open rearend cost $125.00 at a local yard.

:flipoff2:

i thought about that but sort of dismissed it cause it hangs so low. He will be running 36's for a while but moving up to 38's at some point. if Anyone can think of a 60, please speak up
thanks

speaking of converting the waggie to 8 lug, what parts does someone need to collect. I have one, and am starting to keep an eye out for a 70 or 14 bolt.

I already have it converted to 5 lug, and the cross over tierod and draglink, will I be able to keep the steering? I mean do you have to change the knuckles?

Originally posted by RockReadyXJ
i thought about that but sort of dismissed it cause it hangs so low. He will be running 36's for a while but moving up to 38's at some point. if Anyone can think of a 60, please speak up
thanks

I was able to remove about 7/8" from the lip on the bottom without having to cut out the bottom or lose any bolt holes. More can be gained if cut.

One thing to remember if driveline length is an issue is the 14 bolt pinion is shorter than a D60 pinion is.

I don't believe they made a D60 as short as you need, you'll have to cut one. You also have to find a 35 spline one.

That's why I suggested the 14 bolt, no need to shorten it, plenty strong, cheap to buy and build.

Just take some of the cash you save from not needing to shorten a D60 and spend some on shaving the 14 bolt.

Originally posted by bignslow
speaking of converting the waggie to 8 lug, what parts does someone need to collect. I have one, and am starting to keep an eye out for a 70 or 14 bolt.

I already have it converted to 5 lug, and the cross over tierod and draglink, will I be able to keep the steering? I mean do you have to change the knuckles?

As long as your knuckles use 6 stud spindles they will work. You will need the hubs, rotors, brake adapters, spindles and such. If you are using waggy calipers right now they will work with GM 3/4 ton parts. You may need to cut a new snap ring groove in your outer axle stubs. I think you can use the parts from a GM 10 bolt 3/4 ton axle also.

Hopefully someone else will have more to add... :D

i know some 60's came with an offset rear. and cut down one side and its rougly 61" wiode. john buu a xj guy bought it i think. i know john b. a XJ guy in pa found it or got it or whatever...geared 4.10 too....try NAXJA

Hunter

BTW i think you buddys a fairweather faggot and will be sellin his junk soon after he builds it becasue hes scared!
:nuke:

I'm in the midst of a D60-2 narrowing project for my son, Matt [C104 on this list]. Here's what I know: I bought a donor '73 Jeep J4000 [actually the J4700 package] with the illusive 5 on 5.5", 35 spline D60-2, semi floating axle, with 4.10 open diff. This truck had the 360/T18a/D20/D44 closed knuckle front/D60 semi float rr. The output for the pinion was NOT centered, even with the D20 t. case. [With the very long driveshaft I don't think it mattered, it just had to miss the oversized gas tank that hung under there.]
I had the housing shortened by Cook's Machine Works in L.A. They cut down the long side 5-3/8" which centered the front pinion output on the axle. It's now about the width of a stock Scout II or Waggie rr axle. They cut the tube at about 8" in on the long side, tapered down to the cuts, splined them, and slipped in a hardened tube on the inside of the axle tube, and welded the whole mess together in a special jig. He said he's never seen one break even on drag strip cars with huge hp. The long side axle shaft was shortened likewise, resplined and rehardened. The long side axle shaft is about 1" longer still than the short side to center the pinion. These 35 spliners are huge. They neck UP after the splines!
I bought a full Detroit, a complete pig bearing/seal rebuild kit and we will reuse the 4.10 gears. Now it gets interesting. The usual price for a bearing for a 60-3 (full floating) is about $15. The bearing, ONE EACH for the outer axle ends for the 60-2 are $128.99, EACH! Yak!/Choke/ wheeze! Matt found some on-line for $50 ea. and I should see them any day now. The brakes are wierd. The outer dimention of the drums are 13", which just barely clears the inside of a 15" wheel.
The shoes/drums look very good so I haven't run into any brake parts problem yet. The J4000 has the same size brakes/drums front and rear. They are rather narrow compared to the f.f. brakes, but large of diameter.We should have the axle up and running in the next few weeks.
I also stripped the front 4.09 D44 gears/RG&P/carrier/bearings from the front axle of the J4000 for Matt's rig (which had 3:73'"s) His crawl ratio now will be 104:1.
I'll let you know how it turns out. I already have a shortened D60-2 on my CJ8 and it looks identical to the one we're building [except the 4.88's, ARB, Mosier H.D. shafts and disc brakes]. It's not going to break.
regards, as always, jefe

Hi jefe', I think we sell them for $50 too.

looks like the 14 bolt is the best(cheapest) bet, i have a offset van 60 we could get cut down but theres the cost of cuting it down and getting custom shafts.
thanks for the info