After wheeling a really tough trail Saturday, my steering wheel was 45* to the right. I dropped the Jeep at the local alignment shop this morning, and picked it up after work. The tech had already left. Notes said that the toe was 1/2" out (toed out), but that everything has ok (nothing bent, etc.). I'll call tomorrow and try to get hold of the tech (good with 4x4's) and see what's up, but how can the vehicle be toed out 1/2" and nothing bent, etc. ??

Cheers,
Fred

Same thing happened to me recently...I had set it to 1/8" in, went wheeling and jammed my right front tire...On the way home, my steering wheel was way off... Checked it out, and my toe was now 5/8" out... Nothing was bent. I just reset mine and haven't worried about it...
A few guys said that it might have hit hard enough to jump the threads... Take a good look at them and make sure they aren't stripped... If not, just set it and forget it....

Sounded like that infomercial guy right there...:D

same thing here this weekend....wheel was upside down set the alignment back to where it should have been wheel is right side up and tech said nothing was bent....why? how? who knows...who cares as long as it still drives and wheels:smokin:

i keep my TJ toed out 1/2" it rides better on the street

why pay for an alignment...... buy a tape measure and a wrench

BriAN

Originally posted by redruM
i keep my TJ toed out 1/2" it rides better on the street

why pay for an alignment...... buy a tape measure and a wrench

BriAN

Well the tape says it's right but my eyes just don't agree, what do you guys think?

http://www.jeepwrangler.info/Tech/brakesandsteering/images/oops_tierod.JPG


Cheers Fred!

It is odd for me to hear your toe-in was off, it has been my experience with TJs that the draglink bends just outside of where the tie rod connects to it. If you look at your draglink it already has a bend there to clear the swaybar links, this bend causes the whole bar to be weaker and usually when they bend that is where it will be. When the draglink bends it usually doesn't effect toe-in that severly, maybe a couple of degrees but it will make the steering wheel be off quite a bit depending on how far it is bent.

Collin

Originally posted by JEEP_TJ_FREAK


Well the tape says it's right but my eyes just don't agree, what do you guys think?

http://www.jeepwrangler.info/Tech/brakesandsteering/images/oops_tierod.JPG

Collin

You sure that tape measure is right?? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by redruM
i keep my TJ toed out 1/2" it rides better on the street

why pay for an alignment...... buy a tape measure and a wrench

BriAN
we prolly pay for an alignement cuz the computer more accurate than a tape measure and it is my daily driver:flipoff2:

Originally posted by nmujeepin

we prolly pay for an alignement cuz the computer more accurate than a tape measure and it is my daily driver:flipoff2:

So is mine, but it's not rocket science... If you want to pay $50 to have someone else do a 15 minute DIY adjustment, then feel free :flipoff2:

Originally posted by nmujeepin

we prolly pay for an alignement cuz the computer more accurate than a tape measure and it is my daily driver:flipoff2:

I've done mine with a tape measure, then took it in to a buddy's tire shop and had them check it. It was right on. Save your money.

50 bucks???? damn where do you go....cost me 20 and they can do it faster than i could get it done so i guess to me it is worth it...espescially since they can check my camber caster and rear wheel alignements all at the same time

Originally posted by nmujeepin
50 bucks???? damn where do you go....

I don't go anywhere, Duh :flipoff2:

Ok, took it back today, as the steering wheel was about 30* off to the left now. They adjusted it and said that nothing was wrong, "just a very flexy suspension".. I get home and figure something must be wrong as it hasn't done this before. Started moving things, or trying to. While twisting the drag link, I notice that the top of the bolt that goes through the pitman arm (tie rod end for the pitman end of the drag link) is moving. Mmmmm, that's not right, and I reach up to touch the bolt and the castle nut is just sort of floating there. Not tightened at all. I fix it, now I'm wondering how it got loose, unless the shop that replaced the steering box a couple of months ago didn't tighten it..

Cheers,
Fred

Originally posted by Fred Wilson
Mmmmm, that's not right, and I reach up to touch the bolt and the castle nut is just sort of floating there. Not tightened at all. I fix it, now I'm wondering how it got loose, unless the shop that replaced the steering box a couple of months ago didn't tighten it..

:mad2: :mad2: :mad2:

WTF? That is fawking beyond.

I think I would be having a nice chat with both dipshits tomorrow. :nuke:

Dipshit A should have torqued it and replaced the pin but being a dipshit assumed no pin was needed and that the original designers were fools.

Dipshit B at the alignment shop should have both noticed it and dealt with it, that is a basic test during an alignment. If the joints/linkage/ball joints or hubs in our case is worn you cannot do an alignment correctly.


Lucky you found it as I am sure you know it would have been a very bad experience for those to seperate. :eek:

I hope you paid with a CC, I would chargeback that alignment shop since you never got the alignment.

Could have been as simple as the adjusting sleeve on your drag link was loose that's why your steering whhel was off after wheeling.

Originally posted by nmujeepin
50 bucks???? damn where do you go....cost me 20 and they can do it faster than i could get it done so i guess to me it is worth it...espescially since they can check my camber caster and rear wheel alignements all at the same time

they may check caster, camber, rear but the only thing they will adjust is toe, wheel straightness

Unless you have adjustable control arms front and rear the other adjustments you mention are not adjustable.....

Originally posted by redruM


they may check caster, camber, rear but the only thing they will adjust is toe, wheel straightness

Unless you have adjustable control arms front and rear the other adjustments you mention are not adjustable.....

My '98 has adjustable caster with stock arms via cam bolts at the axle. Doesn't yours? I didin't think they got cheap and took away the cam bolts until '99-'00

yea mine had them but they didnt last long (mine wallered out the holes in the frame mount so i welded 2 washers on each side ) then i took them out and replaced them with grade 8 bolts (they dont offer that much adjustment anyway)