I searched.
I saw one guy used what I was thinking about, but no specific post-install type pics. I want to use a 44 caliper bracket, cut most of it off, weld it to the tube.
Does this put the caliper in the right spot, or does the rotor need to be spaced or anything.
Thanks! :beer:

You would have to use a 3/4 ton caliper bracket. You don't have to weld it on unless you want to. You could jsut make a spacer to go between the flange and the bracket and drill new holes in the bracket (you might have to fill in some of the old ones). It needs to be spaced about 3/4" from the flange that the drum backing plate bolts to. The rotors just replace the drums and attach with the stock studs.

sent you e-mail...:beer: :D

WHAT ROTOR'S WOULD YOU USE?

You use rotors and calipers off of a 3/4 ton front D44 (I think 10B is the same too).
check out
www.coloradok5.com (http://www.coloradok5.com)
for people that sell the brackets if you don't have a set of front backing plates floating around

Get with Shaker, I will be installing his kit on a friends truck this weekend. Probably do mine in two weeks or so depending on the cash flow.
Check out his site.
www.shakerbuilt.com (http://www.shakerbuilt.com)

You don't have to use 3/4ton brackets...
I used the dually 14 bolt so I had to weld on my brackets.

Posted info Here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=32189)

I installed discs on the 14-bolt in the back of my modified ride when I ditched the loose and leakin' 12-bolt for some 3/4-ton stuff.

I highly recommend it. I've driven ABS-equipped cars that don't have brakes this powerful.

Some pointers: Use a mid-seventies' Corvette master cylinder- the stock cylinder is not properly valved for disc/disc use. You'll want to use a '77/'78 cylinder, unless your booster or pedal has the "long" rod (sticks out a few inches from the cylinder mounting face) in which case you'll want to use the '76.

I got caught with the '76 master cylinder late at night when I found out the difference. I'd already filled it with fluid and bench-bled it, so I couldn't return it even if the store was open. I happen to be a machinist, so I carved up a new rod to the precise "combined" dimensions.

http://www.docsmachine.com/galleries/brakerod.jpg

I replumbed the frame to connect to two stock front type flexible hoses that I ran from the caliper to the oblong hole in the Chevy frame just above the axle:

http://www.docsmachine.com/nonpb/discbrake1.jpg

I put a small tab in the hole and welded it in, changing it to a round hole- I then drilled the remainder to... I can't recall... was it 5/8"? Whatever the round ferrule is at the end of the hose, which I then clipped into place with the stock hose retainer clip.

I haven't revalved the proportioning valve yet, and it should be done, but it's worked remarkably well on the stock one so far. As I said, the brakes are incredibly powerful, even with this 5,000-lb beast.

This install used cut-and-welded D44 front caliper mounts, and they're okay, but I had a short run of high-quality custom fabricated CNC machined caliper mounts made. If anyone's interested in a set, feel free to drop me a line at airserv@ptialaska.net. I have fairly complete installation instructions too.

My mounts aren't cheap, since I had the CNC shop make 'em, but they're hell for strong and use a solid spacer (not short lengths of pipe or tubing as standoffs) which is machined to index on the same step the old backing plate did.

Doc.