I have just installed a new 22-re motor. After the intial adjusting of the distrubutor to get the timing correct the motor was running well for ~10 min. After about 10 min the motor began to run very rough, as if the timing were WAY off. A knocking noise can also be heard. I checked the oil, the level dropped from being full which indicated to me that everything was being lubercated.

Anyone have and ideas? Thoughts?

It's fawked !!!!
I'll give ya 50 bucks and you pay the shipping!!!!

My first post was vague, I hadn't fully looked at everything. After removing the valve cover, I noticed that the cam was not rotating with the rest of the motor as I turned the crank shaft. The pin that is on the cam had slipped out so as the crank turned the cam was not. Has anyone run into this? Do Toyota's valves hit the pistons if the crank is rotating and valve(s) are fully open? Should I sell my motor to Bitch?

sorry to say, but you're in deep shit if your cam sprocket spun while the camshaft remains stationary. these are interference engines, that knock you probably heard was the pistons getting up close and personal with the valves...

and go ahead and sell that motor to him, he deserves nothing less with all the spamming he's been doing :flipoff2:

You Pay Shipping?

sorry to say, but you're in deep shit if your cam sprocket spun while the camshaft remains stationary. these are interference engines, that knock you probably heard was the pistons getting up close and personal with the valves...


Not what I was wanting to hear! :eek:

Thnx for the nfo. :cool: Any way to check to see if the pistons were hitting the valves? I havn't seen any metal shavings in the oil.

How did that thing stay running for any amount of time with a spun cam???
Pull the head and have a look see, It may be salvageable still.

I would pull the head. You might get lucky, I had a eagle talon that spun the timing belt(actually eat the d___ thing up). I pulled the head and found that 3 of my valves were bent so I replaced them. When you do also get your head shaved(or should I say cleaned a little). Don't sell you might be sorry you did. any more questions just ask

22RE in my 4Runner had the cam pin break at 65MPH. Put a new one in and ran fine! Got very lucky :D
Look at the valves when you get a chance and see if the followers have alot of play in them. That would indicate bent valves.
Danny

When you do also get your head shaved(or should I say cleaned a little). I have seen this in a couple of different posts now. Don't you think that it would be a good idea to check the head to see if it is flat instead of telling them to have it shaved, then if it is not flat, have it cleaned up. Also check the deck to see if it is flat. Shaveing the head throws the cam timing off a bit, so why do it if you do not have to!! :grinpimp:

::UPDATE::

I replaced the pin and put everything back to TDC. Ran compression tests on all four cylinders and got high 130's to mid 140's (I have misplaced my slip of paper that had the exact values if you really want to know the numbers hit me up in a day or so). I feel confident that those are good values for compression. I have also got the enignie running and everything is running like it was during those ten minutes prior to the pin slipping out on me. The only interesting thing I have noticed was the water temp shoots straight up almost in the red when it is initially started and then drops back down. I have read that this is a common thing and have invested in a two stage thermostat. Hopefully this fixes the problem as I have yet to install it, will do tomorrow. Thanks for the tips!

See you on the roads. :flipoff2:

Right on. Glad to here it. Always nice to see a fellow Toy owner be relieved.....
As far as the over-temp thing goes, make sure you "burp" the cooling system and make sure there are no air bubbles.
Later, John.

::UPDATE::

I replaced the pin and put everything back to TDC. Ran compression tests on all four cylinders and got high 130's to mid 140's (I have misplaced my slip of paper that had the exact values if you really want to know the numbers hit me up in a day or so). I feel confident that those are good values for compression. I have also got the enignie running and everything is running like it was during those ten minutes prior to the pin slipping out on me. The only interesting thing I have noticed was the water temp shoots straight up almost in the red when it is initially started and then drops back down. I have read that this is a common thing and have invested in a two stage thermostat. Hopefully this fixes the problem as I have yet to install it, will do tomorrow. Thanks for the tips!

See you on the roads. :flipoff2:

Glad to hear your motor is running again, but in your first post you stated that you installed a new 22RE in your truck. If in fact the motor is new the compression should be closer to 170 PSI. 130-140 would indicate that your engine is very tired and in need of replacement.
Good Luck,
Tye

Glad to hear your motor is running again, but in your first post you stated that you installed a new 22RE in your truck. If in fact the motor is new the compression should be closer to 170 PSI. 130-140 would indicate that your engine is very tired and in need of replacement.
Good Luck,
Tye




The rings havent seated yet......

yup, rings take a little breaking in to fully seat. and you're correct about the thermostat thing, if you don't like that, either get a 2 stage from toyota or drill a couple small holes in it

Just as a follow up, I am coming to the 500mi mark on the new motor and I have had no problems after swaping the thermostat. Thanks for the help.