My Scout II is a '75 sitting on 33s, soon to be 35s. I'm changing gears soon.
My 3.08s just aren't getting it :shaking: . 4.10s are the plan.
While I'm there, I may be adding a tru-trac to the front and a loc-rite to the rear. I was advised to run tru-tracs front and rear, as limited slip units won't need new carriers, and that they would be better suited for the street. The truck will be mostly street driven, but will be offroad at times.

What are you guys running in your Binders?

Also, how much should labor cost. First shop quoted me $950 for labor :shaking: . A shop in Springfield, OH wants $300 :) . A shop closer to me wants $600. I'll go make some more calls in the morning.

Nick

What do you mean by OFF ROAD? Because thats a big variable. Don't get a lockright for the rear, it'll wear out and you'll have to replace it any ways.

Going from 3.08 to 4.10 gears is going to require you to replace the carriers.

Looking at the exact same setup for mine. I have the Lock Right for the rear and am looking at the Tru Trac for the front.

Rock Tractor: What do you mean by OFF ROAD? Because thats a big variable. Don't get a lockright for the rear, it'll wear out and you'll have to replace it any ways.

Not sure of the life span for the lock right but I own it already what have you run up against with them?

might save you some money if you look at the BB parts for sale section. A guy had a pair of axles with Detroit gearless lockers and 3.73 gears. I think he'd take 500 bucks for the pair and they only had a couple thousand miles on them since a complete rebuild. Do a search I'm sure he still has them or he did a couple weeks ago.

I have 3.73s and and 35s. So far it's ok, wheeled it a few times, didn't break anything in the axles or driveshafts. If you go with a 3.73 you can keep the existing carriers. Otherwise, you'll need new ones if you can't get "thick" gears for the old ones.

I'm not concerned about the cost of the carriers, they are only $60.

Seth at Randy's also told me the Lockright wil wear out. That's why he told me about using tru-tracs front and rear.

By saying offroad, I mean just mild trail use. My '70 1100D with a power-loc in the rear took me everyplace I wanted to go. The 1100D is going back with a 14 bolt rear and Dana 60 front, both with lockers. I just want better traction in the snow and mud with the Scout.

I'll go check the BB parts section now :D .

Nick

Tru-Trac is a full-case, gear driven limited slip... damn good unit and will almost never wear out (if taken care of). But it is NOT any sort of locker. Front axle on a DD, recreational wheeler is a perfect application. Some light brake pressure when at the right times will help it perform better when you need be.

The Lock-Rite is a drop-in "lunch box" locker, it goes in a stock open case and replaces the side gears. I can't comment on its life-span in a driver, I have never personaly run one but I have heard both ways. They can be kind of violont though, you might want to keep that in mind. There are some other 'lunch-box' units out there that are more smooth... or for better street manners you might want to concider another LS for the rear, or even a selectable... Selectables are getting down to the low $500 range... thats nice.

$300 for two gear set-ups (no parts) is a good deal. Figure $100 each easy in master bearing/seal kits, plus price for gears and carriers and lockers...

$900 for just set-ups is way high, if it includes bearing/seal kits and warrentee, not so bad, includes quality gears... Much better...

Of you could learn to do it yourself.....

I would take Rustywhites advice and gear it yourself. It really isn't that hard, especially if you make up a set of setup bearings. Since this would obviously be your virgin run at setting up gears, offer someone that is competent a $100.00 bill to HELP you set them up. That way it will be done right, you will gain some valuable knowledge and when you blow your gears out in Moab you won't have to pester me! :flipoff2:

If you set up the gears yourself, buy the right tools to remove the carrier bearing ~ or you'll thrash them.

I usually charge $550 includes gears, all parts and labor (thats per axle) ~ go from there.

I've found some vendors through the Pirate that are offering Tru Tracs for 285, has anyone seen them lower? If not I'll share the two vendors names.

I usually charge $550 includes gears, all parts and labor (thats per axle) ~ go from there.
Plus shipping?


Since we're talkin gears and lockers in this thread, I have a question. I'm talking to a guy about having an axle shipped to me. It is complete from drum to drum, an has a welded diff with 5.89 gears. I am told it was set up by a professional. Asking price plus shipping comes to approximately $580. How does that price compare to buying new parts and doing it myself?

Shopping me eh? :D Remember it comes with another set of R&P's too. And the setup that's in it is has been run around 40 miles will all new bearings and races and R&P. Their not import junk gears, both sets are Dana made Gears in the USA. The guy that did the setup worked at and is going back to work for Shaffer Off Road in Carson City.

I like to do my research. As far as I know, gears are like $125, bearing sets and seals are another hundred, Lincoln lockers are free :flipoff2: labor is whatever someone charges..... Looks like I'm coming out ahead (or at least even.) I just wish I didn't live so far away from all the good deals (and other Scouts)

Let you know Thursday.

Looking at the exact same setup for mine. I have the Lock Right for the rear and am looking at the Tru Trac for the front.

Rock Tractor: What do you mean by OFF ROAD? Because thats a big variable. Don't get a lockright for the rear, it'll wear out and you'll have to replace it any ways.

Not sure of the life span for the lock right but I own it already what have you run up against with them?
I've seen a few of them blown apart. Also for a daily driver you will wear the ears on the two halves out and you will not be a happy camper after about a year when they slip on acceleration.

I've found some vendors through the Pirate that are offering Tru Tracs for 285, has anyone seen them lower? If not I'll share the two vendors names.
DETROIT Tru-Tracs for $285.... damn, that strikes me a SUPER cheap...


Do share....

Full spool ~ $150
Rebuild Kit ~ $75
Gears ~ $125

Doing it yourself is a TON cheaper.

www.performanceoffroadcenter.com is the site for the Dana 44 TT at 285. 395.99 for 60 TT. $749.99 for Electrac Those good prices?

Full spool ~ $150
Rebuild Kit ~ $75
Gears ~ $125

Doing it yourself is a TON cheaper.
I'm familliar with the basics of gear set up, I just don't know anyone who can teach me the proper way to do it. Plus then I'd need a bearing puller, dial indicator, set up bearings, etc. That's an investment I may only use once or twice.

Maybe I'll wait until spring to do the gear swap myself :) .

But I have another problem.... :shaking:

Several weeks ago, I rotated my tires. Then the truck was wandering all over the road. It was almost undrivable. So I rotated them back where they were, now the truck tracks straight. It seems best to replace the offending tire, but I have a almost new set of 37x12.50x15 MT/Rs in the garage.

So now I'm thinking about putting the 37s on the Scout, and regearing to 4.56 gears. I'll install the ls/locker units later. I know they'll fit, the truck has a Triangle 4" lift, and has been hit with a sawsall.

But the question is...will the tru-trac and lock-rite be strong enough to handle the 37s :confused: ?
*
If I keep the 37s on there until spring, I wonder if there is someone who can do a cut & turn on a front 44 housing that may see this post? :D And possiblly ship me some 2 1/2" springs with it? :D
I'd use all the old parts from my old axle of course.

Nick
I

Dude,

This is no brainer stuff. Just do what you think will work. If it breaks, fine just fix it. If it doesn't work out, just change it. All your doing is changing parts on a street rig.

I've been running 36" TSLs with 4.09 gears and a front Lockright for a few years.. no front LR problems. I did blow it up once with the 33" ATs, but that was a while ago.. 3" shorter tires and less motor and tranny ago. :D

Now I have a rear LR, but only 150 miles on it.. and two days of wheelin'.. no problems thus far.

Biggest complaint is the damn highway gears.. but I didn't want to change the front gears when I replaced the rear 4.09 R&P.. and I want the 4.09s when I put 33s back on the axles and sling it under a different Scout.. ;)

.. so I live with 4.09s and 36s..

http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/2005FrontierJan9Trail/img_1155.sized.jpg
http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/2005FrontierJan9Trail/img_1147.sized.jpg

Oh yeah.. I went wheelin' last weekend.. in the Real World, not the InterWeb.. :flipoff2:

..and yeah, I got an assist from the K5 at one point.. :D

I think tom likes taking pictures of his Scout next to and pulling stuck rigs.

I think tom likes taking pictures of his Scout next to and pulling stuck rigs.

It was so cold out that Michelle only left the Scout once.. so the only time I got any pictures were when I took 'em, and the only time I stopped long enough to take pictures was when someone was stuck. :D

How about this pic, of a 46" shod Mog getting pulled by a 35" shod K5.

http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/2005FrontierJan9Trail/img_1206.sized.jpg
http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/2005FrontierJan9Trail/img_1212.sized.jpg

that mog looks killer. is it a 4dr?

that mog looks killer. is it a 4dr?

Yep, 4dr, turbo diesel. 46" tires. :D

Very nice 'Mog.

http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/2005FrontierJan9Trail/img_1157.sized.jpg
http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/2005FrontierJan9Trail/img_1159.sized.jpg
http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/2005FrontierJan9Trail/img_1179.sized.jpg

We did manage to rip the sidewall on one of the 46s.. :eek: $561 "repair" I'm told.. ouch.

His other rig is a '74 454 K5 on 35s.. summer cruising machine.. when he's not on his West Coast Chopper, that is.. definitely has some fun toys. :D

...How about this pic, of a 46" shod Mog getting pulled by a 35" shod K5.

http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/2005FrontierJan9Trail/img_1206.sized.jpg

Why was the Mog having so much trouble? Too heavy for the width of tire he was running? Not aired down enough?

Why was the Mog having so much trouble? Too heavy for the width of tire he was running? Not aired down enough?

I'm not sure if he was aired down enough or not. It made a big improvement getting down to ~18 or a bit lower.. at 18 it started to bulge the tires. I guess it only weighs 9,000 pounds.. :eek: :eek:

He used to have a gasser Mog (now owned by another club member).. tons of gearing, now power. Can't get wheelspin to save his life.

The TD Mog is a lot better about that, but it's still all gear, just a little wheel spin (like a 4cyl Toy with big tires..).

In this spot, it was an ice bottom with a bunch of snow on top, and the Mog couldn't get the wheel spin to "throttle through" the snow (similar to mud wheelin', where the idea is to displace as much snow as you can, since that's your "thrust")..

..so the 350 K5 drove back down to the Mog and throttled up.

Later, I went back down to pull the gasser Mog up, but we'd beaten enough of a path that he didn't have any problems.

Just shows that all of the gearing in the world can't always make up for MORE CUBES. :D

Fawkin' thread highjackers...... :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Anyone running Power-loks?

I had a powerlock in the front of Snoopy during its first build ~ used a truetrach in the rear for wear characteristics. They both are supposed to have the same torque bias as each other ~ worked rather well offroad, and even though I lifted a tire in some places, I never spun a tire.

Does anyone know of an online sight that describes gear set-up procedures?
A link would be nice :D .

I think I'll do it myself in the spring. :rolleyes:

I've had Lock-Rights for years and never had one wear out or break. When i had my DD Heep I had LRs front and rear and put over 60,000 miles on them with absolutely no trouble when I sold the Heep. And yes, it got wheeled. My take is they are so cheap, you can break and replace them three times before they become cost-ineffective, and if I can get over 60K on them, well, that ain't bad.
Darel

Does anyone know of an online sight that describes gear set-up procedures?


I think I used Randy's ring and pinion website to locate the doc that helped me set up my front gears. Check it out.

here's a few good sites:
http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
http://www.dana60.com/gears.html
http://zukaz.tripod.com/dana44gearinstall.htm

hope that helps ;)