Who's running this in their cruiser? I currently have a 350/350/203 and I have been pondering running a ORD doubler. I have access to the correct NP205 and I know this adds roughly 6 inches to the over all length.

To those running an auto tranny, how long is your rear driveshaft?

I will be running a 14 bolt with Ford F-150 springs and looking at moving the axle back another 4 or 5 inches from where it's at (Reversed cruiser springs) Am I gonna have enough room to run this set up??

Anybody know the length of the chevy small block off hand?

The length from the front edge of the crank pulley to the end of the trans where the adapter will bolt on is 49 1/2".

I have a 350 and TH350 in my Cruiser, rear drive shaft is like 17.5 long. If you modify the headlight buckets on a early truck or use late model flat headlight buckets you can move the radiator in very close to the grille. If I do this, it would give me about 3" to 4" more rear driveshaft, more if I ditched my fanclutch and went to a low profile flex fan.

Lots of poeple flip the rear springs, I don't really like the idea of more axle wrap with 300 horsepower so I am thinking of doing Fj55 rear springs that have a centered rear pin and more weight carrying ability than I have now.

That and the rad on the cowl would give me 6" of more rear driveshaft.

I have a `80 model Dana 300 with a short rear output (only year they made it). The D300 adapter is thinner than the one for TH350 to LC transfercase. That will give me another couple of inches but I will need to swap in a centered 9 inch that I have as well...

Overall, it can work if you make the most of the space available.

-Stumbaugh

Originally posted by Stumbaugh
if I ditched my fanclutch and went to a low profile flex fan.



Don't throw that fanclutch away because it will be going back in.
Or, you could give it to me, and then buy a new one once your done throwing that flex fan like a frisbee.:D

I said "if I ditched"

I hate flex fans. They have never worked for me.

With my current setup I really don't think that I could keep it cool with out my the huge fan/fan clutch setup that i have now. Cost me like $100 bucks too!

Summit and Jegs sell a large steel fan that bolts right onto a water pump with no clutch. Not too exspensive either - like $30 bucks, maybe even less. I was thinking of running one of those and seeing if could give me some more clearance.

-Stumbaugh

Originally posted by Stumbaugh
I said "if I ditched"

I hate flex fans. They have never worked for me.

With my current setup I really don't think that I could keep it cool with out my the huge fan/fan clutch setup that i have now. Cost me like $100 bucks too!

Summit and Jegs sell a large steel fan that bolts right onto a water pump with no clutch. Not too exspensive either - like $30 bucks, maybe even less. I was thinking of running one of those and seeing if could give me some more clearance.

-Stumbaugh

I'll be running an Aluminum radiator and an electric fan. Planned on modifying the radiator mount to move it up as far as possible and putting the fan on the back of the radiator in a "Pull" mode. Then moving the motor up as far as possible 3" to 4" is what I estimated too, then running the 350, 203, 205 set up behind that. I plan on running at least 105 to 107 inch wheelbase as well. With the majority of that stretch coming from the rear (I am currently at 94 give or take .5)

That sounds like a great plan. Exactly what radiator/fan are you running and where did you get it? How much?

I am running a Mepco high efficientcy four core, it works but I want to go to a wider one that I have now with more top to bottom clearance.

Thanks,

-Stumbaugh

Griffin radiator from Summit (not sure this is the right part # but you get the idea)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?d=5&s=194&p=673&part=3331

and a Perma Cool 16 in electric fan 16 in. 2,100-2,950 :eek:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?d=5&s=93&p=1218&part=10634

:D:D:D

A radiator out of a 84 ford F150 works great if you get it recored with a high efficiency core, its a cross flow and fits just perfect between the head lights and lower fender shroud The advantage to this is its a copper/brass radiator and it can be fixed on the trail,unlike aluminum rads. The core I'm useing is called a L-core and is used in industrial equipment

[QUOTE]Originally posted by GloNDark
[B]Griffin radiator from Summit (not sure this is the right part # but you get the idea)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?d=5&s=194&p=673&part=3331


GloNDark,

Are you going to run a rad with a trans cooler? Most of the good deals that I can find on AL rads don't have a trans cooler and to get one cost a lot more.

Have you found one that has one built in?

-Stumbaugh

Originally posted by Stumbaugh
[QUOTE]Originally posted by GloNDark
[B]Griffin radiator from Summit (not sure this is the right part # but you get the idea)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?d=5&s=194&p=673&part=3331


GloNDark,

Are you going to run a rad with a trans cooler? Most of the good deals that I can find on AL rads don't have a trans cooler and to get one cost a lot more.

Have you found one that has one built in?

-Stumbaugh

I found a regular copper one a pic n pul. :) But other than that, the only Aluminum one I have found (well not really) was a custom unit and the shop wanted a but load of $$$$ to build it. But Cruzilla raised and interesting point...trail repair is important. hhhhhhmmmmmm Never really thought about that until now.

Summit and Jegs used to list high performance brass radiators but with the craze towards aluminum I have not seen them in the latest catologs. Maybe they can still get them.

The only way tour gonna get a 350/350 with a doubler is stretch your wheel base. The best way to leghten your frame is to splice in the middle to get the desire length you need. Your not going to get what you desire by lengthening the rear of the frame. You could run some longer rear springs and extend the rear of the frame, but thats gonna look funky!
I would recommend using a pusher fan instead of a puller, if your only going to run a electric type fan. A puller fan isn't as effective as a pusher fan. A puller fan isgonna take up valuable space you will need to move your engine forward as far as possible....
:skull:

Originally posted by ranger
The only way tour gonna get a 350/350 with a doubler is stretch your wheel base. The best way to leghten your frame is to splice in the middle to get the desire length you need. Your not going to get what you desire by lengthening the rear of the frame. You could run some longer rear springs and extend the rear of the frame, but thats gonna look funky!
I would recommend using a pusher fan instead of a puller, if your only going to run a electric type fan. A puller fan isn't as effective as a pusher fan. A puller fan isgonna take up valuable space you will need to move your engine forward as far as possible....
:skull:

No frame lengthing for me. :D:D:D All wheel base. it will closely resemble Leroy II when it is all said and done.

I would go w/ a howe radiator not a griffin. much better quality & effiecency.

BTW. contrary to popular belief an aluminum radiator CAN be repaired on the trail w/ a little emory cloth or sand paper & epoxy or JB weld.

Aluminums cool WAY better & at low speeds & electric fan you'll probably need all the cooling you can get. for a good electric fan go to the owe racing site (www.howeracing.com) & they have a pretty trick setup from GM that you can find @ your favorite yard.

Originally posted by sixty
I would go w/ a howe radiator not a griffin. much better quality & effiecency.

BTW. contrary to popular belief an aluminum radiator CAN be repaired on the trail w/ a little emory cloth or sand paper & epoxy or JB weld.

Aluminums cool WAY better & at low speeds & electric fan you'll probably need all the cooling you can get. for a good electric fan go to the owe racing site (www.howeracing.com) & they have a pretty trick setup from GM that you can find @ your favorite yard.

The fan I was looking at from Summit is pretty strong. But junkyard parts that kick ass work too!

Is this the fan you are talking about?

http://www.howeracing.com/radiators/radiators3/indexgmfan.htm