I was wondering why doesn't anybody come out with a double triangulated 4 link kit or other 4link kit for the front?

If no 4link kits are available, that is fine, but why don't you see allot of front 4 links in Toyotas, is it because of the 3link Panhard bar is better and easier to install due to mounting and clearance issues?

Offroad Solutions Coil Over kit (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/index/coilover.htm)

I was wondering why doesn't anybody come out with a double triangulated 4 link kit or other 4link kit for the front?

If no 4link kits are available, that is fine, but why don't you see allot of front 4 links in Toyotas, is it because of the 3link pan hand bar is better and easier to install due to mounting and clearance issues?

Offroad Solutions Coil Over kit (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/index/coilover.htm)

The biggest issue I ran in to when I designed my buggy was fitting a crossmember for the upper links yet still having front driveshaft clearance. With the length of the Toy transmission and dual cases, the front output flange sits way back in the chassis, using a single piece shaft means you can't get a crossmember in towards the front of the rig. I managed to use a two piece front driveshaft utilizing a 96 Toyota carrier bearing which moved the point where the driveshaft pivoted forward, beyond my front crossmember. Without that crossmember I don't see how you can get enough triangulation. This problem is componded with a stock truck since you can't just move frame members.

...because Offroad Solutions is badass like that.

And if you have a welder and a tape measure, can't YOU make your own link setup?

The 3link clears the 5vz better.

Here's some example pics.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=167182&stc=1

Here's my crossmember for the upper links at the frame end. I only have about 15 degrees of triangulation (lowers are at 20 degrees) which is the minimum I felt safe with considering my steering and heim joint sizes. Without the carrier bearing the crossmember would have to be right under the front output of my t-case which would mean 60+ inch long uppers and no skid plate under the t-cases.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=167183&stc=1

Here's an overview of the front end. Also consider I had the advantage of not having to work around existing parts.

Azrckcrawler hit it on right on. its the hole clearence issue that is a factor. i have seen it done both ways 3-link and 4-link but on the toys it seems that the 3-link works better. less death wobble with the panhard in the front, that i have noticed.

"JohnToyRatRig" And if you have a welder and a tape measure, can't YOU make your own link setup?
Re-read the post :rolleyes: "kozaz" why don't you see allot of front 4 links in Toyotas, is it because of the 3link Panhard bar is better and easier to install due to mounting and clearance issues?

"kozaz" I was wondering why doesn't anybody come out with a double triangulated 4 link kit or other 4link kit for the front? Did not say anything about making my own, this is more realated to the first quote. Once I find out why kits are not made, because of clearance issues as pointed out by AZrckcrawler whick pretty much sums it up, then I decide if I'm to build my own. Why build something with no research!

Thanks AZrckcrawler could not ask for a better description. :smokin:
By the way, as always nice fab work!

id want something with a panhard for the street

Damn! I'm already convinced to go 3link front, kudos for Offroad Solutions and DSI's prototype work!

Is there anybody out there with a 3 link front? I think the Panhard bar, mounts, and 2 lower links would be an easy fab. Just trying to picture the upper mount for the upper link.