Okay here is the deal. I am doing the RDB for fj55 with the chevy rotors and montecarlo calipers. I requested the proper roters and calipers etc. and had the inner part of rotors milled. Now that i am bolting it all up i have found a problem. with the pads on the calipers i can fit the caliper on the rotor. How much space should there be between pads and roter first of all? Second am i doing somthing horribly wrong to make this happen? Everything is all lined up nicely and the rotor looks to be about 1\8 to 1\4 inch to thick.
I do not know if this is possbile so correct me if i am being much to "newbie-like". Couldnt i just grind down pads? even if i just grind enough so the can barely get over rotor, then i can drive a while to rub them down to proper distance? please let me know what you think i need to do.
ben

WHich rotors did you use? The thin ones are around 1", The thick ones are 1.25" IIRC. WHat was the application or part number you ended up with?

Is the caliper fully retracted?

Jim

I will check on what rotors i used, i cant check now, im at school, i do know that they look pretty thick, and are vented (i think thats what theyre called. The caliper is fully retracted since it is flush with body of caliper.
ben

as i remeber they were of of 92? or 94 chev PU 4x4 w\out extended cab

I thought they were 90ish 2wd chevy extended cab....

I used part number 85977 rotors when I did RDB on my FJ55 (http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/rdb/index.html). Worked great with the Monte Carlo calipers.

Morgan

Go to Bill Jacksons Page via IH8MUD.COM - he has a part number for CarQuest - I just bought a pair of rotors for $68 from them. The PO of my rear axle did the RDB using the 4X4 rotors that are 1.5" thick - he must have shaved the pads to get them on - I dont think that is the best way to go! Thats why I am getting new rotors. The "correct" rotors are 1 1/8" thick, FWIW.

Originally posted by KrustyKruiser
Go to Bill Jacksons Page via IH8MUD.COM - he has a part number for CarQuest - I just bought a pair of rotors for $68 from them. The PO of my rear axle did the RDB using the 4X4 rotors that are 1.5" thick - he must have shaved the pads to get them on - I dont think that is the best way to go! Thats why I am getting new rotors. The "correct" rotors are 1 1/8" thick, FWIW.

The part numbers Bill lists are for discs with a thicker center section, which require longer studs. The 85977 rotors lie flush with the outside of the cruiser axle and you can keep the stock studs.

FWIW, and shit.

Morgan

the rotors for the swap are 2WD regular cab chevy, not extended cab. sounds like you got either 4x or extended cab rotors which are both too thick.

Originally posted by morgan


The part numbers Bill lists are for discs with a thicker center section, which require longer studs. The 85977 rotors lie flush with the outside of the cruiser axle and you can keep the stock studs.

FWIW, and shit.

Morgan Ah, I see said the blind man! Where did ya get those rotors from? Tanks, KK

NAPA, O Great Andy.

They're available most places under part number 85977 or 5977, IIRC.

Morgan

Originally posted by morgan
NAPA, O Great Andy.

They're available most places under part number 85977 or 5977, IIRC.

Morgan

Muchos grassy arse, Mo!

I really don't think you can use 2wd rotors since they have a one piece cast hub/rotor. You need a 4wd rotor since they use a 2 piece hub/rotor combo.

Basically, you want a 4WD 90 Chevy 1500 short bed, non HD chassis and you will get the thinner vented rotors. If you got the ones for the HD chassis, you will get the thicker rotors and you will not be too happy.

well thanks for all of the replies. I am now one very dis-satisfied Shucks customer. I took all the info from many of you sites (great stuff) and took it in to shucks. the rather challenged looking manager got me some an assured me that they are what i needed. And guess what? THEY ARE NOT!!!!! the are the thick ones! So i am wondering what path to go down. I cant return them since they were milled (there goes 60$ wasted at machine shop). I am thinking that i could yet again mill them and have them milled down to the proper thickness. Also what i did (dont laugh) for now is ground down the pads so they fit. They are pretty smooth and so i figure i can drive around neighbor hood for a while to rub them down to proper smoothness. I figure the cost to mill them down to proper thickness will be less then going and buying rotors then milling the center out again.
thanks for the help,
Ben
BTW anyone need some thicker rotors? they will go cheap....

Bummer man. The trouble with parts houses is that they think know a lot and are trying to be helpful (if it is going into a 4WD shouldnt it be from another 4WD vehicle, etc.). Grinding the pads down is kinda funky and dangerous (dont want to breath in that asbestos crap). Also milling the thick rotors down by 3/8" may well take them down to below their minumum thickness (if you do, they may well warp very easily - hate to break it to ya, but you may as well bite the bullet and get the right ones - I am doing exactly that right now - I hate to pay twice for something, but what the heck!