finishing up a soa on a 73 sII. d44, rs, stock springs. ive seen the rodeo bumpstops used but not in detail. where do you guys set yours up to contact the axle. heres a pic of what im looking at now. thats all i can stuff it due to steering clearances. ill only be able to stuff the other side about the same due to driveshaft clearances. should i just fab an extension for my stock bumpstop to extend down to the axle tube and use the same rubber deal or does someone have a better idea? pics would be nice.

http://img109.exs.cx/img109/5025/bumpstop5ic.jpg

i would place it directly under the frame,spaced down so it comes in contact with the spring plate.

I took a 4ish inch stick of 2" tube and welded it to the bottom of my frame pointing down at the u-bolt plate. I welded a peice of 1/2" plate to the bottom of that tube. Drilled and tapped the plate for those $10/pair poly bumpstops at autozone... Screwed them in and done.

I use the Rodeo ones all the time. Usually a piece of 3" channel iron welded to the underside of the frame thats long enough to bolt on the bumpstop. Trim them u-bolts so the bumpstop doesn't get the shit ripped out of it the first time out.
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i like your setup. someday ill do the ARB too. how much do the rodeos compress when they have weight on them? heres a couple more pics so you can see what ive gotten myself into. notice also the links, and the lack of clearance, above the passenger side spring. these things are leading me to believe rock fangs have more benefits than i thought. i have 1" spacers under the arms and i bent the arms 15 degrees up. damian, advice?

im already having to give up some compression to make my d300/700r4 combo work and not cause driveshaft to tranny pan problems. id really like to not have to use limiting straps to limit droop on the passenger side b/c of steering clearances.

http://img159.exs.cx/img159/1613/scoutyoga002a5jc.jpg

http://img159.exs.cx/img159/3077/scoutyoga005a2as.jpg

i like your setup. someday ill do the ARB too. how much do the rodeos compress when they have weight on them? heres a couple more pics so you can see what ive gotten myself into. notice also the links, and the lack of clearance, above the passenger side spring. these things are leading me to believe rock fangs have more benefits than i thought. i have 1" spacers under the arms and i bent the arms 15 degrees up. damian, advice?

im already having to give up some compression to make my d300/700r4 combo work and not cause driveshaft to tranny pan problems. id really like to not have to use limiting straps to limit droop on the passenger side b/c of steering clearances.

http://img159.exs.cx/img159/1613/scoutyoga002a5jc.jpg

http://img159.exs.cx/img159/3077/scoutyoga005a2as.jpg

They compress to about half their original size if you have a shitload of weight being forced upon them. When towing my 22' travel trailer the rear suspension pretty much rides on the bumpstops. Does make for a nice ride. Looks like you need just a touch more height on the hi-steer arm. If you had used the partsmike knuckles it may have given you that extra little bit needed as they are 1/2" taller. How does yours turn? Looks like it may turn too much with the stock pitman arm and shorter hysteer arms. Maybe go to a shorter pitman arm off a waggy. It might pull the draglink away from the leaf pack that extra little bit that you need. I plan on going all the way with partsmike knuckles and completeing my homebrew hysteer setup by getting the tierod above the springs like yours.
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they're long arms made to work with the long scout pitman. yes, the extra .5" from the parts mike knuckles would be nice but they didnt exist when i got these and they cost a lot more. does anyone make a 1.5" spacer?

Call PartsMike.

LT1 you can get hy-steer arm spacers to raise your arms a little higher. My tie rod rubbed on my springs when I went to hy-steer and I had to get some spacers. Alot cheaper than starting over with new parts mike stuff. I got both of my spacers for $15.

For your bump stops I did the same thing JoshC did and they work good and were cheap :thumbsup:

LT1 you can get hy-steer arm spacers to raise your arms a little higher. My tie rod rubbed on my springs when I went to hy-steer and I had to get some spacers. Alot cheaper than starting over with new parts mike stuff. I got both of my spacers for $15.

For your bump stops I did the same thing JoshC did and they work good and were cheap :thumbsup:
:rolleyes: PartsMike sells spacers.

When needed (aka 1" spacers don't work) I've used a big press-brake to bend Hysteer Arms up 15* ~ that gives any needed clearance.

When needed (aka 1" spacers don't work) I've used a big press-brake to bend Hysteer Arms up 15* ~ that gives any needed clearance.


they're bent... any more ideas? you should be the one to help me here.

Partsmike does sell spacers and the longer studs to go with it. If you don't want to go spacer maybe put a 2 to 4 degree shim between the axle and springpack to gain a little caster which in turn will pull your tierod/draglink further away from the springpack. If you can afford to lose some front pinion angle then this may work for you.
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i did the cut and turn and have correct pinion angle and 5* of rearward castor. i could stand to lose some pinion angle, but what negative side effects does too much castor have? added stress on steering components, more laborious steering...?

I've never needed more than a 1" spacer and bent arms on anything ~ The extended pass-side arm I make (so that the Draglink attaches forward of the TR) makes for some more clearance when bent up. Worked awesome with Snoopy.

A little harder steering ~ but don't you have a ram? If so, who cares. I put 6 degrees on almost all the rigs I build ~ without problem. Usually 7+ degrees is what starts making things hard on each other. The more you have, the more clearance.