OK, the OX has been out for a while, and from the sounds of it some people on this board have been running it and like it..


So, does anyone have an opinion on OX or ARB?? ARB is a proven design, but the OX sounds like it has ground a good rep.


Any one used both? Opinions one way or the other. Price seems "comparable", with the OX appearing about $100 more..

I have a new HP front D44 in the works, and its getting something in it. ARB is the plan, but if the OX is better..... :)


-mark


BTW, a search would be worthless, I've read all those, I'm looking for NEW opinions....

The OX is fine but what if something breaks. It not like you can run down to your local 4x4 shop and get the parts off the shelf. More than likely you will have to order the repair part from Superior Axle and wait a week. Were as a repair kit for an ARB is a little more common and readily available. On another note they say that an OX locker won't break.

I've never run an ARB in my own vehicles, but I have installed both OX and ARB. If you are into ease of instalation go for the ox. It seems to be just as beefy as an ARB, and I really do not think that you will have problems with it. Just be sure to build yourself a beefy guard for the cable that comes out of the cover!
As for my ox, it's only been in for 3 days, and don't have a new driveshaft yet, so it hasen't been tested. :(

if they made them for D60s i'd jump on the OX. They have much less to go wrong than the ARB. Also you don't need a compressor for them. I had ARBs front and rear in my last truck and they were nice, but the OX is as close to a perfect locker as possible. You can't go wrong with either really but if you can afford the OX and have an axle that they make one for GET IT!

-Steve

It looks like the 60 Version of the OX is now available. They do not have a $ listed.

no it's not, i called today. they said they're working on one but the cost is prohibitive. Right now he said they'd be 1500 dollars. He said they should be available in a few months.

-Stev

I've heard too many air lines blow, or O-rings split to ever drop coin for an ARB, unless they become $200, with compressor & installation. But you don't have to worry bout air lines woth the Ox. Ever since its inception, I believed the Ox to be the perfect locker. It may take some time for the prices to fall and more to become available. But when they do, you can bet I'll jump on the bandwagon if not before:D
Ox it and forget it! or ARB it and repair it:(

The ARB lockers are rock solid with a great reputation for handeling abuse, provided they are installed in a decent axle. The shortcommings are, in the compressor, poor airline routing and the occasional solonoid failure. With those components upgraded to more reliable systems the ARB rarely ever fails. You can modify the air attachment at the housing to use an AN thru bulkhead fiiting, with stainless lines for a nearly indestructable failure proof airline, with a super EZ trail repair, if the line is torn loose. The O ring failures were an older design problem that has not been an issue for years, provided you dont run a milky white, oil/ swamp water mix as your regular gear lubricant.

I like the idea of the OX, but every time I have seen one on a tough trail (twice) they were having bad engaging problems, with the cable(to the point that we found a way around them in one case, gawd it was like a convention of Rocket scientists trying to figure out the best way to screw in a lightbulb).
When the OX goes from being "Neeto New Swag", that everyone is oggeling at around the camp, to being a viable tool for moving rigs up-hill, then Ill consider one.

With those components upgraded to more reliable systems the ARB rarely ever fails. You can modify the air attachment at the housing to use an AN thru bulkhead fiiting, with stainless lines for a nearly indestructable failure proof airline, with a super EZ trail repair, if the line is torn loose.

And to most of us these upgrades cost money. The ARB locker itself is quite expensive. The Ox itself is more $$. But with the ARB, you still have to buy the compressor, have it professionally installed (and hope that the guy did it right), then these upgrades? That pushes it way past the Ox. & If ya have to upgrade a "rock solid" locker "with a great reputation for handling abuse" just to have a reliable system, then obviously it ain't so great after all.:rolleyes:

Just give the Ox more time to prove itself. Hope to see a product review here, too, Lance. (please)

Enough from the people with no PERSONAL, FIRST-HAND experience... :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

I have Oxen Front and rear in Waggy D44s and they've worked perfectly ever since I've had them. (I was at the very top of the waiting list when DTD came out with the D44 model last spring so they've been in there a while).

I beat the hell outta my rig on a regular basis.

Nothing's ever broken. They've always shifted flawlessly.

HTH,
Jake

Originally posted by Jakesteramalamajama
Enough from the people with no PERSONAL, FIRST-HAND experience... :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

HTH,
Jake


NEWSFLASH: If I was there and seen it happen, then,.. it is my PERSONAL 1ST HAND EXPERIENCE.:rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Now on the other hand, if I were to tell someone, that I read that yours actualy worked, ...now that would be hearsay.

Im sorry, to hurt your feelings by giving my opinion based on what I have seen. But since Ive only seen 2 of them on a trail that needed lockers, and since both of the ones Ive seen had left their owner without a front locker, and struggeling on the trail,....well thats a 100% failure rate in my book. That is enough for me to need to see more positive performance before Im gonna be the "Guinea Pig".

I hope they do turn out to be an excelent locker, with a record of reliabilty, and performance that rivals an ARB. I would love to have another alternative for a front locker that didnt require an air supply. I just havent seen it yet from ,my own PERSONAL FIRST-HAND EXPERIENCE. :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

go OX....or better yet,SPOOL:smokin:

hey well i like my Mcnamara and plan on converting it from vacuum to cable ASAP mostly because i dont want to have to depend on any other system other than my hand pulling a cable. And another thing if i have any problem i can just hop under front axle and tighten a bolt in about 3/4 of inch and it is spooled up(worst case scenario). So basically the chances of failure and having to pull cover off and pull axles and all of that are eliminated. But hey just cause it handles 44 boggers and a fuel injected big block probally doesnt mean it is strong huh(almost a year so far and 1 set of r&p) and that is pretty good for me

Originally posted by Cutter
go OX....or better yet,SPOOL:smokin:

Im with this guy! Go SPOOL, and never have to worry about breaking a locker again :D I love mine!

Mmmm....Mcnamara's.....mmmmmm......:beer:

Originally posted by Rockbuggy


Im with this guy! Go SPOOL, and never have to worry about breaking a locker again :D I love mine!

Spool will be in the back... i just want a selectable locker in the front.... tight trails, icey roads.


Thanks guys, keep the info comming.

BTW, the compresser thing is a non issue... there WILL be on-board-air.....


Anyone have any pics of and OX instal, specificaly they cable exit and routing you chose?? I want real world, not the pretty pics they will have on their website.


Also, anyone heard anything more about the Detroit electric locker that was supposed to be out what.... LAST YEAR????

IMO, THAT my be the ultimate locker....

Originally posted by Im4yotas


If ya have to upgrade a "rock solid" locker "with a great reputation for handling abuse" just to have a reliable system, then obviously it ain't so great after all.:rolleyes:




So you are saying that, in order for a product to be an acceptable upgrade for your rig,... it must come from the factory, with simple bolt on requirements, and be so well built that it has, no room for personal upgrades. And you still want the price to be a major consideration also.
Yeah, that a philosophy that will work when building a "No Holds barred" Off Road rig.:rolleyes:

If you are going places where you need an ARB, I would think that an on board air system should already be installed.
As far as improving the systems on the ARB, I would rather thay they keep the cost down, since most guys will never abuse the stuff out of the box anyway. I dont want them to charge me for 100 amp continuose duty relays, or stainless air lines, I can get that stuff cheaper from other sources.
And I dont think twice about improving on any system or product, I purchase or fabricate, as the needs arrise.

Damn it, I never should have bought that piece of shit, Atlass II, All that money for reliability, then to have to go out and pay for the 32 spline front output upgrade. And those damn Optima batteries still needing to have 1/0 welding cable ran, along with other electrical upgrades, to handle the high amperage abuse I put them through.

Keep in mind, I am thinking they redesigned the ARB so you don't have to drill/notch the bearing cap. Something to look into that should make the install more reliable.

Bryan

the Detroit ElecTrac is gonna be SAWEEET whenever it comes out. Limited slip with the ability to fully lock. They say they're working on it on their website, i hope they hurry up!

-Steve

ARB is what I run..

No experience with the OX.. but I have heard good things...I have had no trouble with the ARB my self...but have hard of others with the air line problem..(getting burned, torn, etc).. but if you take your time with routing them lines...youll be fine...JUST USE YOU HEAD and take all moving parts into consideration when routing...I have had mine for 2 1/2 years with out failure..

OH and by the way... WHAT DOESNT BREAK AT SOME POINT IN TIME....after all with what we do...nothing hold up forever..

as for the professional install for the ARB... for get it.. 4 hours for my front in my garage!!!....PEOPLE ARE SO SCARED to install these things.. I can see a big problem when installing them is getting the brass line inside the pumpkin in fished up through the hole you drilled in the case and getting the ARB in and not messing up the o-rings...I fixed that..I used a coupler with some brass FLEXIBLE tubing i purchased at a plumbing supply and instaalled the ARB first then conncected the line up..VOILA!

Milkman

just my .02$

There is an install writeup for a D44 OX at www.madxj.com in the tech section

Got ARB front and rear for 7 years, and no problems with the diffs, the only thing is the comp. I have sence replaced with belt driven, know the only problem is the cyliniods get gunked up from the oil from the comp, so I just clean them about once a year.

Originally posted by offroadr35
the Detroit ElecTrac is gonna be SAWEEET whenever it comes out. Limited slip with the ability to fully lock. They say they're working on it on their website, i hope they hurry up!

-Steve


I read somewhere??? That they were gonna have a 35" tire limit, to stay within warranty. Who knows, who cares, but if it is true, then that might be a statement, that TraTech is specing the engineering, towards affordability rather than indestructability, whichwe have all come to expect out of the Detriot.
In any case, the Detroit ElecTrac or whatever they are gonna call it, will need to used and abused, and ran through the mill, so that it can be tested for reliability.
Thats what sponsorships programs, and competition are all about. Its easy to keep components together if you arent trying to Fawk em up.
But give em to some guys who, have to "fully get it" everytime they, point up hill, then tell them that money is no object, and even dare them, to try and break it,....then you will know the products capabilities.
"Way too many guys", buy components, by name or neeto looks alone, and that same "way too many guys", usually are affraid to break their stuff.
I am looking forward to reading a review on the OX Locker, or Macnamarra, or any other selectable locker (which I think is very usefull in the front axle).
But who is running them hard so we can get a good review.
I can go to their web site to see how shiny they are.
I wanna see someone who is regularly, breaking parts, review them, and say, these are the shit.

I've had an ARB in my 10.25 for about 2 years. The only problem is that it leaks somewhere (not at the connections), and it only leaks when under load. There is no gear oil in the line. ARB could only figure it's an o-ring and sent me new seals no charge. It's done this from day 1 and I've never had time to fix it, but it's never failed and never gotten worse, the compressor just cycles more than it should. So, depending on how you look at it my experience could be a bad thing or a not-so-bad-thing. I will be fixing it soon when I regear.
Consider installing a dessicant filter inline, anytime you compress air you create condensation, and this can freeze and crack the blue plastic line. Or upgrade to stainless... I've just never done this 'cause I'm poor and the stainless is kinda pricey.
All in all, I have no complaints w/my ARB, but I don't beat on it w/high-horsepower tire-spinning action.

Originally posted by DownunderBender
since both of the ones Ive seen had left their owner without a front locker, and struggeling on the trail,....well thats a 100% failure rate in my book.

Let me guess... You're a statistician, right??? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by DownunderBender
Im sorry, to hurt your feelings by giving my opinion based on what I have seen.

Hey, my feelings are unscathed... Seriously dude, don't get your panties all up in a wad. I was kidding. Eat a cool ranch.

Were the ones you saw fail D30 models? As far as my experience goes, it really only applies to the D44 models so I can't comment on D30 installations with any certainty, but it sounds like they were incorrectly adjusted. Right after I got mine installed, it took a little fiddling around with the cable assembly adjusment at the shifter end. My guess is that the two you saw were probably new installations and hadn't been adjusted correctly quite yet. Once the shift throw range has been dialed in they work great--really positive feeling. They haven't needed any furthur adjustment since.

HTH,
Jake

Originally posted by milkman
ARB is what I run..

No experience with the OX.. but I have heard good things...I have had no trouble with the ARB my self...but have hard of others with the air line problem..(getting burned, torn, etc).. but if you take your time with routing them lines...youll be fine...JUST USE YOU HEAD and take all moving parts into consideration when routing...I have had mine for 2 1/2 years with out failure..

OH and by the way... WHAT DOESNT BREAK AT SOME POINT IN TIME....after all with what we do...nothing hold up forever..

as for the professional install for the ARB... for get it.. 4 hours for my front in my garage!!!....PEOPLE ARE SO SCARED to install these things.. I can see a big problem when installing them is getting the brass line inside the pumpkin in fished up through the hole you drilled in the case and getting the ARB in and not messing up the o-rings...I fixed that..I used a coupler with some brass FLEXIBLE tubing i purchased at a plumbing supply and instaalled the ARB first then conncected the line up..VOILA!

Milkman

just my .02$



Ditto, I ran my copper line to flexable stainless hose with an AN3 fitting, inside the diff. Installed a stainless bulhead connector through the diff housing, and another stainless hose line to the air source. this makes failures non existant since its been installed this way, but repairs only require that a carry a couple of AN 3 fittings and a bulkhead connector. Also very air tight, I get no noticeable leak down if left on overnight.
If you get the system to the point of good airtight integrity, it means you could run your locker indeffinately using only very occasional refills of your, holding tank, from any passser by with air or a buddy. I typically run 2 or 3 trails at Johnson valley, before needing to energize the compressor clutch.
As for solonoids, I use 100 amp continuose duty , scissor lift control solonoids. They are very heat tollerant under the hood, and are way more efficient than the little stock units, if wired with propper wire and install.
The switches,..I like the ARB switches, I use the factory ARB compressor switch to energize my York clutch, but the funky piggy back wiring of the power through their harness, gets the boot for a simple, and more versatile, new garage engineered harness.

Originally posted by Jakesteramalamajama


Let me guess... You're a statistician, right??? :flipoff2:


Nope, Im the head babysitter on construction projects, but I still know that 2 for 2 is 100% (or a 1000 batting average).


Hey, my feelings are unscathed... Seriously dude, don't get your panties all up in a wad. I was kidding. Eat a cool ranch.

Were the ones you saw fail D30 models? As far as my experience goes, it really only applies to the D44 models so I can't comment on D30 installations with any certainty, but it sounds like they were incorrectly adjusted. Right after I got mine installed, it took a little fiddling around with the cable assembly adjusment at the shifter end. My guess is that the two you saw were probably new installations and hadn't been adjusted correctly quite yet. Once the shift throw range has been dialed in they work great--really positive feeling. They haven't needed any furthur adjustment since.

HTH,
Jake

Im glad I didnt hurt your feelings, I was waiting here feeling terrible waiting to hear if you were OK :flipoff2: LOL

The ones I saw floundering were both on D44 fronts on TJ, they were both at the Hammers,(on 2 different occasions) and the OX was not thier only, or biggest problem.
I have nothing against the OX, but like you said yourself, you were the 1st one to go out and get one. What was your decission based on? I for one dont want to be the test vehicle, unless the company is giving me a set for testing and evaluation. So until I see a box with my free OX waiting to be installed and beaten on, Id rather wait and see how they hold up on some competition rigs. Maybe someone is already running them hard in competitions, and I havent heard, but then again I havent been researching a Locker change in my front axle, because this one has lasted 3 years. In that time I have busted dozens of U joints and axle assemblies, and nearly every other front axle component, all around it.

Kongs just had to replace an Ox due to excessive ring gear flange runout on the diff. (It had been installed at another shop)
Has anyone else heard of this?
It is possible that the previous installer screwed it up.

I have run ARBs for about a year. I have had no failures.
I regulate mine to 60 psi.

Originally posted by DownunderBender
I have nothing against the OX, but like you said yourself, you were the 1st one to go out and get one.

Hey man, somebody's gotta ride that bleeding edge... ;)

And it wasn't as if I was the very FIRST person to get one. They had been testing pre-production units and the D30 had been out there for over a year with a pretty good record. I knew I wanted selectable lockers at both ends and I knew I didn't want an ARB (All that fawking around with air lines, O-rings, compressors and crap just didn't appeal to me. I've just seen too many of them fail on the trail--PERSONAL, FIRST-HAND experience ;) ) so the Ox seemed like a pretty good bet. The D30 units had a pretty good rep and DTD has great customer service (again--my personal experience) and my gear guy is great about warranty work, so I figured what the hell. It's not as if they don't have a warranty.

Jake

Besides, those things are pretty beefy. Set a D44 Ox on a table next to a D44 ARB differential unit and you'll see what I mean. and every part in it is milled from a billet... no castings. It's simpler meaning there's less to go wrong.

So you are saying that, in order for a product to be an acceptable upgrade for your rig,... it must come from the factory, with simple bolt on requirements, and be so well built that it has, no room for personal upgrades. And you still want the price to be a major consideration also.
Yeah, that a philosophy that will work when building a "No Holds barred" Off Road rig.


Not at all. What I'm saying is if I had the choice to spend $200 on a Lockright that can be installed easily, or $650 on something that's supposed to be top of the line (plus installation, plus compressor) and it needs to be upgraded because it's not reliable, I think I'd stick with the Lockright. Throw the Ox into an equation, and it's still the same story. It might be $800, plus installation (which would be cheaper than the ARB), but the ARB is $650, +$200 for the crappy compressor, +$350 (?) for installation, and however much to upgrade it. So that's $800 plus installation, verses $850 plus installation, plus upgrades.

Wouldn't you be pissed if you bought a D60 front end, but realized it busted axles worse than a D30? Would you buy a Hummer, then spend $15,000 to upgrade it just so it can wheel it as good as a Land Cruiser? But some people do buy Hummers, upgrade them and wheel them. Maybe so they can say "I wheel a Hummer." And that's fine by me as long as they don't try to act like they're any better than me because of it.

And that is not my philosiphy about all upgrades on my truck. If it was, I'd leave it stock, and wheel it in dirt parking lots.
:rolleyes:

H.A.N.D.

Originally posted by Im4yotas


the ARB is $650, +$200 for the crappy compressor, +$350 (?) for installation, and however much to upgrade it. So that's $800 plus installation, verses $850 plus installation, plus upgrades.


H.A.N.D.


So you dont believe in having on board air, in a rig, that is supposedly, so ready to "get it", that it needs a locker? :rolleyes:

Originally posted by Im4yotas



Not at all. What I'm saying is if I had the choice to spend $200 on a Lockright that can be installed easily, or $650 on something that's supposed to be top of the line (plus installation, plus compressor) and it needs to be upgraded because it's not reliable, I think I'd stick with the Lockright.


So now youre telling me that a Lockright, is a better choice for seriouse wheeling than, an ARB?
What planet do you wheel on?
Anytime you wanna put this brilliant, recommendation of locker choice to a test we can meet at Johnson Valley and put your theory to the test.
I will be out there for the week before the calROCS competition, just getting a little seat time in the rig before, the comp. It would be very interesting to see your LockRight equipt, choice of vehicle and my ARB equipt vehicle, take a few runs and evaluate reliability, and performance.

Run the OX dont run the OX, whatever, but dont try to compare the two, untill their have been enough of them ran through the same paces the ARB has been scrutinized, under for the last 10 years.
And to try to compare the ARB to a lockwrong, and have it win in your experienced opinion, just shows your ignorance.

On second thought, the OX does have a really neeto shiny cover,..So after reconsideration, I think you are 100% correct, the OX would be the best locker for you and your rig.

Oringinally posted by DownunderBender

Blah Blah Blah



You're right. They are not comparable. Because the Lockright doesn't have some crappy air lines to leak at and a sky high price tag.

And I do have onboard air. A real compressor, not some All Ready Broken brand pos compressor from ARB. I'll be at JV for the 4runner jambo in April. And I won't be worrying about Lockright. But I will worry for you and your expen$ive air lines:flipoff2:

. It would be very interesting to see your LockRight equipt, choice of vehicle and my ARB equipt vehicle, take a few runs and evaluate reliability, and performance.


Yah, then we can evaluate how much money we have left in our checkbooks. And while you're going to the parts store in a buddy's rig to get a new O-ring, I'll have to drive around your broke down POS and start on another trail:D

The Oxes that I've seen have a black or army green cover with yellow lettering. That's a lot better than my current chipped, faded rusted cover.

What I'm saying (if you can pull your head outta your ass long enough to listen) is that an Ox is a better choice for serious wheeling than an ARB. I have the Lockright because there is no Toyota compatible Ox for me, yet.

If you think you're cooler than me cuz you spent 1000 bucks on a locker and you have a cool little switch in your dash, your not. Get over it. And get over yourself. And stop boring me:zzz:

Originally posted by Im4yotas


You're right. They are not comparable. Because the Lockright doesn't have some crappy air lines to leak at and a sky high price tag.

And I do have onboard air. A real compressor, not some All Ready Broken brand pos compressor from ARB. I'll be at JV for the 4runner jambo in April. And I won't be worrying about Lockright. But I will worry for you and your expen$ive air lines:flipoff2:



Yah, then we can evaluate how much money we have left in our checkbooks. And while you're going to the parts store in a buddy's rig to get a new O-ring, I'll have to drive around your broke down POS and start on another trail:D

The Oxes that I've seen have a black or army green cover with yellow lettering. That's a lot better than my current chipped, faded rusted cover.

What I'm saying (if you can pull your head outta your ass long enough to listen) is that an Ox is a better choice for serious wheeling than an ARB. I have the Lockright because there is no Toyota compatible Ox for me, yet.

If you think you're cooler than me cuz you spent 1000 bucks on a locker and you have a cool little switch in your dash, your not. Get over it. And get over yourself. And stop boring me:zzz:

Well I dont know why, but even though you are a blithering idiot, but ill try to steer you straight on at least your own facts.
Since you already have On Board Air, you dont need to buy the POS air compressor, (but Im sure the guy, behind the counter, of your favorite 4x4 shop, didnt tell you that, when you were standing there all wide eyed pricing up your first locker.
You can buy an ARB with even the slightest shopping around,(no that doesnt mean 20 trips to the same store asking em, if the price has come down), for $625.00. but better prices can be had if you have any contacts at all in the 4x4 world.
Installation is free, because afterall it is just installation:flipoff2:, again the guy behind the counter will tell you that setting gears is best left to his highly skilled mechanic Gods,.... but gear set ups are possible by mortal men. :rasta:

As far as reliability,...well, I am getting a pretty clear picture of the type of "Wheeler" you are:laughing: , so when a line comes loose, after one of your buddies forgot to reroute the lines around his new quick disconnects install(hey Guys, I even installed it myself):rolleyes: , It must seem pretty scarry.
But in the real world of hard core wheeling where traction and reliability is more important than owning the newest gear being touted in the off road rags, The ARB has a very good reputation.
And the O rings, issue is an old issue that was solved in the last century. Installing a new, very reliable air line system costs about $35 (incl spare parts,)

So to recap:
The ARB costs about $600
You dont need to buy the compressor.
You can use the switches if you like how shiny they are, and easy to find on a dark dash durring night runs.
The ARB is scarry, and unreliable to you.
The ARB, to me, is a reliable, high performance tool, with a well established record, from years of competition and trail abuse.
The OX, to you, is the best diff available, and based on your own personal experience, knowledge, or ignorrance, you, are now a devoute OX"man" and will not be swayed otherwise.
The OX has a shiny diff, No,.. I stand corrected its a "Black or Green Diff with Yellow lettering(which in your opinion is better than your "Chipped, faded, rusty ole cover).
The OX to me, is still unproven, but will hopefully establish itself as anothe reliable option as a high performance tool for going uphill.
I have my head up my ass.
You are a blithering idiot.

I dont really think we should get into the money in the checkbook thing, since I have sponsors that cover many of my parts, I get very good discounts through competition sponsors, and long time freinds, from 20 plus years of wheeling.
And more importantly, I dont have to pay $350 to have my diff covers opened and closed:flipoff2:

Maybe we can wheel sometime soon, Ill be looking for your Black or Green Diff covers with Yellow lettering.
What does your mechanic drive? I know he will need to be thereon the trail with you. because if you and your freinds are having that much trouble, with air line routing, and basic maintenance, Im sure the OX shifter linkage is gonna be pretty tough also.

I think that about covers it.

The OX is a mucch better system than the ARB. I know the owners of OX and the 60 has been made, and they are designing a new cover for the shaved 60's.
The so-called problem that people have with the OX engaging is that there has to be a little variation in side to side wheel speed so the cogs can engage. Cable routing is very important and can affect the engagment process.
Each vehicle may have to route a little different due to modifictions to the vehicle, suspension height & travel, etc.
Guards for the cables is a good idea. Also, don't make the curve too tight when routing the cable.

Originally posted by JeepinIan
The so-called problem that people have with the OX engaging is that there has to be a little variation in side to side wheel speed so the cogs can engage.

Yeah. All it takes is a quick tug on the steering wheel one way or the other to get the front end to differentiate enough for the dogs to line up.

With the rear OX, you can either time it so you shift when you're rounding a corner or the wheel tug mehtod works as well--but not as well as it does for the front. The rear doesn't really matter so much because I usually just lock the rear and leave it locked in until I leave the trail to drive home.

If you're stuck your wheels are differentating a bunch anyhow so they shift right in. You just gotta be sure you're spinning as you shift.

It's no big deal once you get used to it.

Jake

Originally posted by DownunderBender


Well I dont know why...
[really long post]
...I think that about covers it.

Now whose feelings are hurt fawker!?!
:D :flipoff2: :D

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite


BTW, the compresser thing is a non issue... there WILL be on-board-air.....




I agree I wish that everyone would quite winning about havin to buy an air compressor. It servers 2 purposes and if you don't like the ARB go to a junk yard and geta York for like 30 bucks :flipoff2: :D

After consulting a ton of people, I am going with the OX. It also might have something to do with my wiring jobs always shorting out at the worst times! :rolleyes:

Who are you trying to sell one of these things to? I'm not asking how much it would be for me (or your lucky sponsored rig) to get it. I'm not debating over buying an ARB or Ox for myself. It's all for the guy who is. I don't know if he has air, or uses a friend's.

I have my head up my ass.
You are a blithering idiot.

Agreed:D

So you're one of those guys, huh? The one who thinks he's real cool with his corporate sponsorships. You don't even have to pay your mechanic when he opens and closes your diff covers.
I do most of my own wrenchin (and a lot for my friends), and the only time I haven't is setting up the gears. I only paid the guy $60. And he wheels the sweetest Cruiser I have seen.
I even pulled the 3rd member myself. Didn't pay any mechanic. But if you know anything about axles other than yours, you might know that the Yota diff covers aren't exactly removable.:rolleyes: It might take a lot of grinding to open it. But then it would be really hard to close again.

BTW, I'm just playin with ya:D Don't take it too personally. It's great that you have (what I'm assuming to be) a competition rig. It's even greater that you can get reeaally big discounts on parts for it. I have no doubts about the ability of you, your truck, and your mechanic:p
As for me, I'm probably not quite as extreme as yourself. I don't have the funds (or the sponsorships :emb: ) to let my truck be extreme. If I did it would totally be AWN! I'm still working on some of the details of my truck. But that won't stop me from making the hardest trails my truck can handle. I'm still going to JV. (Damn, Johnson Valley is a long drive from "Down Under":D )

Give me a year, and a little luck, and my truck will be pretty damn sweet. Give me 2 years and a lot of luck, and it will be unstoppable. And remember, IAIGF;)

Hope ya didn't git yer knickers in a twist!

I installed some OX'S several months back, 44 and a 30. I couldn't get the rear to pattern up right and started sniffing around- voila, .009" runout on the ring gear flange. Tried moving stuff around like rotating the halves and nothing helped. Anyway, called Drivetrain or whoever the distributor is, and they were just CNC'in everything and slapping them together. No final runout check which has changed now. It must have been tolerance stackup or something... :rolleyes:
Anyway, problem must be fixed, I haven't heard of it happening in the last couple months.
FWIW, the OX distributor did reimburse for the machine shop labor to fix it.
DownUnderMondayBender, you saying you'd run 'em if somebody gave you a couple? I'd be curious how they hold up for you, as would most people probably. No I don't have any sorry.

What do you do with the cables when you have a LOT of front end flex? i mean you hard mount the cable to the frame but maybe you need about 2 feet to coil up somewhere for droop?

Who here has an OX with some Flex?

Well, in most cases, just like running ARB lines, you don't run the lines along the frame then straight down to the axle. I like to give the or cables some spring mounts along the frame and body for the last foot or two nearest the axle. I haven't had any trouble with any yet! :)