I finally got all of the parts in place to finish my 61 scout 80. I would like some input, ideas and real life experiances for the following questions. don't tell me to search, i already have.

here are the stats on my project.

Scout II dana 44's (i have the whole scout, so if there are any other parts suggested for my 80, i'm open to ideas). currently the stock 152, 3 speed and t-case. I have, but am not ready to install, a 350TBI, 700R4, dana 300 combo. I need to save a little more for that swap, but please keep it in mind for any advice. I plan to use the rig as a street then trail, and built strong enough to handle rocks, and some abuse. now for the questions and opinion section.

Springs I have a full set of scout 80 springs, a full set of scout II springs, a full set of stock YJ springs and i can easily obtain a set of waggy springs. What have you used in the past and what works doesn't work under the weight of the scout? How about swapping leafs from each to make an ultimate pack?

Brakes I have the brackets from AA manu. for the rear disk w/ chevy calipers. what can i do for a parking brake that isn't hack work? what works and what sucks? I've read both horror stories and great praise about the caddy calipers w/ the parking brake, anyone w/ real life experiance?

Drive Shafts I've read on the BB that the shafts from the 80 need to be cut 1 1/2" when using scout II axles. Does this still apply w/ the spring over? I'd like to get away as inexpensively w/ the shafts as possible, since putting the new combo in will no doubt require nice new shafts, so i don't want to throw a lot away pissing w/ these.

Power Brake Swap I have the booster and master from the parts scout II and the donor suburban from the small block. I can't use the scout 80's old single resi set up w/ the disks. which would be a better set up? would the 152 create enough vaccuum to make either work? how have you done it in the past? how were the results. What about the clutch resi, since i will be keeping the 3 speed a little longer.


I'm sure i'll have some more questions as time marches on, but until then thanks for the help, i'll have some pics up as soon as i start.
Vinny

Power Brake Swap I have the booster and master from the parts scout II and the donor suburban from the small block. I can't use the scout 80's old single resi set up w/ the disks. which would be a better set up? would the 152 create enough vaccuum to make either work? how have you done it in the past? how were the results. What about the clutch resi, since i will be keeping the 3 speed a little longer.


Yes you can use the stock single res. MC with the disc brakes, and it works well. I am very happy with my braking power with the stock '61 master cylinder, discs front & rear and 38.5 swampers. I have a T fitting in the line off the MC, and an adjustable proportioning valve from Summit Racing for the rear brakes.

Springs I have a full set of scout 80 springs, a full set of scout II springs, a full set of stock YJ springs and i can easily obtain a set of waggy springs. What have you used in the past and what works doesn't work under the weight of the scout? How about swapping leafs from each to make an ultimate pack?


Hey Vin,
on rock scout we are using stock YJ springs. We are not sure if we are happy with them or not. The fronts became S shaped pretty quick and the rears are on their way. We put some Rubicon Express 2" AAL's in the front and that helped a bit. We are not sure what we are going to due with them. We like them because they are very flexy and lay pretty much flat with the Scout on them, but as soon as you start wheeling it the springs don't last. There is alot of wrap happening in the rear, so a traction bar would be a must. You can't mix and match YJ, Scout II and 80 springs as they are all different widths (2.5,2, and 1.75 resprectively), I don't know the width of the Waggy springs. If you have enough length, what about waggy's up front and Scout II rears in the rear?? Just a thought.

Good luck!

I've got stock YJ springs under the 800 I'm building shown below:

http://infohost.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a7.jpg

The rear sit with a little bit of arch and they negatively arch in the front. I kinda wish I had used stock front waggy springs front and rear, since it would sit ~1.5" higher and the spring rate would be closer to ideal since I agree with Diesel, these aren't going to last.

BTW - waggy springs are like 1.5" longer than YJ springs, and usually net like 2" of lift on a YJ.

I will say that the conversion to 2.5" springs was well worth it though. Those stock little suckers won't last a week IMO.

oh yea, on the driveshafts -

Mine are sitting at about 17 degrees with the spring over, stretched wheelbase (2") and travelall axles (d44 and D60-2). I'm putting in tom woods shafts with his offset u-joints to make it work, but if I did it again I'd rotate the front pumpkin and run CV front and rear. That's my advice to you....

I'm going to be running wagoneer springs front and rear - the 44044's in the front and stockers in the rear.. flipped backwards for better departure angle.

thanks for all of the input guys, keep it coming. and if anyone needs any scout II parts let me know.... i'd hate to see good parts go to waste, and i don't have the ability to store another truck....

if it's got a 196 I'll take the PS pump mount and pump of your hands :)

I'll let you know as soon as it is delivered, it should be here by saturday....

and lets not turn this into a for sale thread, i'll have pics and some negotiable prices in the for sale section as soon as i have it here.

Cali called. They said buy some fuckin 60's or go home :flipoff2: I have a dustpan if you want to sweep your truck up and take it with you.

Easist solution is to run the SII spring. You know they work and they are designed for the "load". But the SBC does change that.


I'm happy with my 44044's front, SII rear. But this is in a SII with a 392. I could use a wrap bar, but its getting linked.

Loose the stock driveshafts and find some beafier ones in a wrecking yard (or from the SII or Sub) and pay to have them cut down. Just figure on re-making them if your going to swap the 350/700 in later.. If you try to design/build this version planning too much for the next version, things will just get more difficult.

just some of my opinion

Have you thought about putting the 80 body on the SII frame?

I am running the Skyjacker Rock Ready dbl military wrapped YJ 2.5" lift spring with the fitted leaf for more capacity. When I went over the spring rates, the fitted leaf brought the number to above what the stock springs were.

So far, they are holding their shape, but I doubt I am getting 2.5" of lift....no big deal since I am SOA anyway. They work well...ride nice and flex pretty well. I never even tried stock YJ springs since I have the IH motor. Too heavy for those wimpy springs.

What seemed cool to me was to get someone to make a new second leaf that fit a factory YJ spring, make it dbl military wrapped, and maybe it would make all those YJ springs sitting in the scrap pile worth using. Or, maybe not.

I took a pair of waggy rear leafs(7 pack 48''or so)and put them under my 304+full winch bumper...They went from 7-8'' arc 2-3'' so I added the 3rd leaf from a chevy 56'' pack..that helped a ton and they still feel soft like the rear 56's..I dont know if this helps anybody now...but when some NEWB like me does SEARCH :laughing:

I tried stock YJs originally.... They sagged too much.
YJs are lighter.
I currently have 4" YJs I think, sits a little high....
Maybe 2" if you could get them.

Get a $25 MC from a 72 Disc brake x4 ford Mustang (2 resv.).
Direct bolt in & stops my junk w/35s fine (for 40 year old truck anyway).
Anything else & you'll have to cut the fender well or do some fabbing.
Get a linelock or a Jeep Parking brake for a D18 or D20. (won't work on the 300).

Bite the bullet & get shafts made, or use stock SII shafts, hope they fit or your able to cut them down

Personally, I'd ditch the 3 speed.

Get a $25 MC from a 72 Disc brake x4 ford Mustang (2 resv.).
Direct bolt in & stops my junk w/35s fine (for 40 year old truck anyway).


I used the 72 MC also but I had problems with the brake push rod being too long and causing the brakes to drag. I'm still working on a solution I feel comfortable with.

63" chev springs in the rear. Ford f150 rear leaves with the offset pin in the front to stretch you out some. thats what I would do.

Hmmm....
Mine came without the pushrod. Just a female/divit on the plunger portion.
Fabbed up a rod to fit.

Hmmm....
Mine came without the pushrod. Just a female/divit on the plunger portion.
Fabbed up a rod to fit.

Yeah, mine too. So it wasnt 'bolt on', completely? :D Any time there is fab involved its no longer 'bolt on'

What did you do for the rod? I cant think of anything that would be really safe.

I used a 3" shaft that was threaded on one end.
Threaded end has a nut, then goes onto 1-2" long threaded nut (can't remember what they are called), then another threaded shaft (all-thread) w/2 nuts at each end, then the clevice attaching to the pedal.

Had to do it for my Gerling style brake MC too cause the shaft was too short.

I'll look into it. thanks. Those nuts are called 'coupling nuts'

Yeah, mine too. So it wasnt 'bolt on', completely? :D Any time there is fab involved its no longer 'bolt on'

What did you do for the rod? I cant think of anything that would be really safe.

I hope I am not misunderstanding your question, but here goes.

When I swapped in a Corvette m/c to go along with the new 4 wheel discs, I found the stock brake rod was too short IIRC. I went to the hardware store and bought a...ahhh, can't remember what it was called, but it is threaded all the way through inside and has a hex shape on the outside...kinda like a really long nut? I am sure you can get the idea. Anyway, I found that the Scout 800 brake rod was exactly the right diameter to allow the rod to be threaded to match the long nut thingy. I cut the brake rod in half and had a machine shop thread it for me. Two stop nuts on either side of the threaded center piece made for a solid and adjustable brake rod.

It may not be so simple for you (I was working on a 800), but it worked great for me.