This thing is drivable finally (not wheelable quite yet) but it's finally close to done so I thought I'd share....

Some recent shots of the scout.

http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a1.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a4.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a6.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a7.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a2.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a3.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a5.jpg

details:
stock 196, T-18 and D20 twin stick. Axles are D44 front, semi-float 60 rear, both from a travelall. Regeared to 5.89s, welded rear, lunchbox up front. Waggy & Ford bastardized brakes. homebrew cage, bumpers, sliders, etc. suspension is 2.5" YJ springs, SOA. stretched to 102" wheelbase, Rancho 5012s up front, NAPA rears angled in at 45 degrees, 5-point harnesses obviously and some okay seats.....dunno, other misc shit of course...

Here's what I still need to do:
- Replace front glass
- Replace driveshafts (tom woods units on order)
- Mount 36" IROK bias plys (picking them up tomorrow)
- mount tachometer and some other misc crap (got the parts)
- trim more on the fenders.

Think that's it!

oh yea, if anyone has a PS pump for the 196 - "hook a brother up"

I really don't want to have to make one and full-hydro > manual :)

This thing is drivable finally (not wheelable quite yet) but it's finally close to done so I thought I'd share....

Some recent shots of the scout.

http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a1.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a4.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a6.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a7.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a2.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a3.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout05a5.jpg

details:
stock 196, T-18 and D20 twin stick. Axles are D44 front, semi-float 60 rear, both from a travelall. Regeared to 5.89s, welded rear, lunchbox up front. Waggy & Ford bastardized brakes. homebrew cage, bumpers, sliders, etc. suspension is 2.5" YJ springs, SOA. stretched to 102" wheelbase, Rancho 5012s up front, NAPA rears angled in at 45 degrees, 5-point harnesses obviously and some okay seats.....dunno, other misc shit of course...

Here's what I still need to do:
- Replace front glass
- Replace driveshafts (tom woods units on order)
- Mount 36" IROK bias plys (picking them up tomorrow)
- mount tachometer and some other misc crap (got the parts)
- trim more on the fenders.

Think that's it!

Cool. I really like the 2.5" SOA YJ springs on my 800. Skyjacker ones.

my bad, I meant 2.5" wide springs, they're stock YJ springs...though obviously all YJ springs are 2.5" wide so I'm being redundant......

i like it, its pretty clean. The fuel cell set up with the spares on either side look like they fit perfectly! Pretty funnn

i like it, its pretty clean. The fuel cell set up with the spares on either side look like they fit perfectly! Pretty funnn

yea, finding those jerry cans was a little fun :) BTW, this rig was rolled. Gotta give IH credit, 'cause even the old hardtop didn't look that bad....

I hate you.


Every time I think about selling my 80 I get inspired to build it. I just like the lines on the 80/800.

Looks good man. Always did like them in white.

http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scoutnewtires3.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scoutnewtires4.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scoutnewtires5.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scoutnewtires1.jpg
http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scoutnewtires2.jpg

:grinpimp:

Those meats look a tad over-inflated.... :flipoff2:

The only thing that would concern me is having the fuel cell in the passenger compartment. Is this trail only or will it see some street duty? Taillight lenses look a little faded. New ones are available, or you can do what I did and put some LED lights back there. Go to a truckstop and get them, mine were $20 each, plus the grommet and plug.

tires are at 25psi....they'll be at 8psi really soon :p

As for it's purpose, 99% trail. Mostly rock crawling too, can't stand mud or hill climbs or any of that crap. As for the tail lights, they're both cracked, I saw scoutparts sells them but they were like $30 ea, and I don't want them that badly 'cause I know they'll bet busted within a week.

BTW - Im building this thing for my dad. I've got a couple of other rigs of my own. his main wheeler got totalled 2 years ago, it's about damn time he gets back into it.

The only thing that would concern me is having the fuel cell in the passenger compartment.

I wasn't sure how a I felt about it at first, but it's permanently open top, not much different than a buggy really. I thought about putting a wall between the tank and the seats, but I can't see how it would do any good...

tires are at 25psi....they'll be at 8psi really soon :p

As for it's purpose, 99% trail. Mostly rock crawling too, can't stand mud or hill climbs or any of that crap. As for the tail lights, they're both cracked, I saw scoutparts sells them but they were like $30 ea, and I don't want them that badly 'cause I know they'll bet busted within a week.

BTW - Im building this thing for my dad. I've got a couple of other rigs of my own. his main wheeler got totalled 2 years ago, it's about damn time he gets back into it.

If your interested in tail lights, go to one of the other light line dealers, most of them sell them for 11-15 bucks, same damn ligth. Why the heck is everyone going to Scoutparts, its a bunch of over priced parts you can get everywhere else??

Scout looks great BTW!!

sorry, but who would be another light line dealer? If I can get them for $15 I'm game.

BTW - while we're talking parts, I could use a new distributor. Anyone got a good used one or know where I can get a new/used/rebuilt one for a fair price? so far I see scoutparts has them but can't seem to find them anywhere else except the ocassional e-bay find....

Another Light Line Dealer?? Scoutparts wasn't even a light line distributor until a few months ago!

Binder Books (http://www.binderbooks.com)
Super Scout Specialists (http://members.aol.com/suprscout/)
Anything Scout (http://www.anythingscout.com/)
The Scout Connection (http://www.scoutconnection.com/)

These are just a few that are online, there are many MANY MORE!!! Scoutparts is by far the most expensive of the bunch. Good luck!

awesome thanks. I'm usually a "get it from NAPA and make it work" kinda guy so I hadn't hunted down any IH specialty places...

awesome thanks. I'm usually a "get it from NAPA and make it work" kinda guy so I hadn't hunted down any IH specialty places...

I would still go to NAPA as I have found with some effort they can get just about anything I need, if not there are other sources. I use the Light Line dealers for specialty stuff, like lenses and seals and emblems, stuff I use when Dad and I are restoring a rig and not when Dan and I are building one for crawling.

For anybody who might find this post while looking for dealers

Lightline of Louisiana (http://www.lightlineofla.com/)
Back Country Binders (http://www.backcountrybinders.com/)
D & C (http://www.dandcextreme.com/)

Now, as for some tech

Why don't you have any horizontal bars running between the top corners of the A & B hoops and the B & C hoops? The front looks particularly vulnerable if you come down on the corner of the windshield frame. In the back half of the cage, it looks like the spreaders are just too far in, but in the front it looks like there are pieces missing. You might not be finished, but is looks like it's painted, plus you didn't mention anything about it. If I were building a rig for my Dad, I know I'd want to be damn sure it was as safe as reasonably possible.

In the rear the spreaders are a little further in 'cause he wanted to be able to strap stuff to the top of the cage. That was the compromise there.

As for the spreader between the A & B, the intent was to put one there until I got the seats and harnesses in. With them in, I can tell you it's already fun getting into the thing since it's got those formed seats so you can't really slide into them. If I put the spreader bar there, he won't be able to get in and out....

...anyway, I'm not particularly happy about it either and I'm debating what I want to do about it. suggestions are welcome.

For anybody who might find this post while looking for dealers

Lightline of Louisiana (http://www.lightlineofla.com/)
Back Country Binders (http://www.backcountrybinders.com/)
D & C (http://www.dandcextreme.com/)

Now, as for some tech

Why don't you have any horizontal bars running between the top corners of the A & B hoops and the B & C hoops? The front looks particularly vulnerable if you come down on the corner of the windshield frame. In the back half of the cage, it looks like the spreaders are just too far in, but in the front it looks like there are pieces missing. You might not be finished, but is looks like it's painted, plus you didn't mention anything about it. If I were building a rig for my Dad, I know I'd want to be damn sure it was as safe as reasonably possible.

Ben,

Thanks for picking up some slack, I just typed the 4 who I had the URL's memorized for. I think the majority of the poeple here would rather be spending their money with D&C then SSS, I know I would!!! :flipoff2:

I didn't see any lenses on thos websites. My local parts guy has some brand spankin new. Don't know what he wants for them, though.

Scoutparts is by far the most expensive of the bunch.

Easily one of the most expensive...

Complete ripoff product (http://www.scoutparts.com/products/?view=product&product_id=13119)

Nice looking rig, btw.

-Gary

I didn't see any lenses on thos websites. My local parts guy has some brand spankin new. Don't know what he wants for them, though.

They all have them, I know there websites aren't the best, but they are there.

Easily one of the most expensive...

Complete ripoff product (http://www.scoutparts.com/products/?view=product&product_id=13119)

Nice looking rig, btw.

-Gary


Damn, Why the hell is mine still on my scout, I could make some money.

I dig that thing. How does it steer? Are the Travelall axles a direct bolt in?

tires are at 25psi....they'll be at 8psi really soon :p
Snoopy's road preasure was 12 psi front, 9 psi rear ~ I normally didn't deflate for offroad, but could have.

In the snow 5 ~ 3 :flipoff2:

Looks good man. How wide are those axles WMS to WMS??? Looks like your gonna need to chop some fenders or lift her up a bit huh?

Taillight lenses...New ones are available, or you can do what I did and put some LED lights back there...
My experience was that the 4" round truck lights require just a touch of widening to the body-taillight-opening. Obviously they worked for you. I used LED's on the T'all, but new lenses on the Scouts. My local lighting supply stocks the lenses for about $7.80 each. :)

Are the Travelall axles a direct bolt in?
No, T'all axles are not a "direct bolt-in." :shaking: Nothing's a "bolt-in" for a Scout 80/800, unless you're really good with a bolt. :flipoff2:

Ronnie :)

I dig that thing. How does it steer? Are the Travelall axles a direct bolt in?

steeering - haven't tried it offroad yet, we'll see. Probably going to suck. I've got a pump and an orbital/steering valve. Gotta get a ram and fab the brackets and all that then it'll be great, but that may be a while....

as for the axles, no, not bolt in. rear, new spring perches, and of course I switched to YJ springs so new shackle hangers and spring mounts on the frame. Up front I had to inboard the spring mounts and shackle hangers slightly.

Looks good man. How wide are those axles WMS to WMS??? Looks like your gonna need to chop some fenders or lift her up a bit huh?

Not sure about width, never measured them. Sure some travelall guy can chime in there.

yea, plan for today is to trim the fenders, finish mounting the tach and hopefully rebuild the front spring pack with another leaf or two. The front YJ leafs just aren't high enough spring rate, rear seems about right though. I picked up a set of front and rear springs for a YJ from a guy in my local club last night, but one of the main leafs in the rear broke at the eye. No biggy. Anyway, hoping to make a frankenstein pack, probalby cut the eyes of the main front leafs and add those as second leafs first, see what that does. Might add the second leaf too, or try the main leafs from the rear pack, dunno, trial and error I guess right?

I've been procrastinating all week about trimming the fenders cause I'm going to have to trim the new rocker guards and they're 1/4" thick and are just going to be a PITA since I'm going to have to do it with a 4" grinder.... oh well, time to suck it up and 'get er done'.

BTW - ordered some replacement tail light lenses and also a newer electronic distributor...

How wide are those axles WMS to WMS???

My 1972 1/2T T'all axles are around 64" WMS. Drum D44F, D60-2 rear.

No biggy. Anyway, hoping to make a frankenstein pack, probalby cut the eyes of the main front leafs and add those as second leafs first, see what that does. Might add the second leaf too, or try the main leafs from the rear pack, dunno, trial and error I guess right?...

For what it's worth I took the 3rd leaf out of my rear chevy 56" pack...it seemed to help the rear waggy pack that I put under the front. my rear chevy leafs seem to flex better also :) I think the rear waggys were like 48-49" after the 304 sat on them.

In the snow 5 ~ 3 :flipoff2:
About 4psi
http://beer.thisdysfunctional.org/kids/album136/DSC01250_1.jpg

Seeing matt's FAQ post and seeing this build thread in it made me want to update it...

Here were some wheeling shots shortly after it got up and running. My dad was down visiting for the weekend, he's driving:

http://www.ee.nmt.edu/~offroad/images/picKLE-cache/20050305%20-%20Quebradas/_dsc0939_640.jpg

http://www.ee.nmt.edu/~offroad/images/picKLE-cache/20050305%20-%20Quebradas/_dsc0951_640.jpg

http://www.ee.nmt.edu/~offroad/images/picKLE-cache/20050305%20-%20Quebradas/_dsc0955_640.jpg

After this run I did another round of modifications, basically trying to get the torque at the wheel up and make it a little easier to steer and a few other things. Here's what got done:

- swapped the T-18 for one with wide-ratio guts in it. Had to convert to a ford clutch and some other misc stuff to make it work...
- 3.15s in the D20.

Those two mods combined raised the crawl ratio to around 120 which made a HUGE difference.

- swapped the rear springs for some RE 1.5" HD YJ SOA springs. Got custom Alcans made in the front. After a few trips the stock YJ leafs were rallied. The new springs seem to be holding up well but I should point out that I also made a anti-wrap bar for the rear...

- did a CV conversion in the rear to cure some vibes. Lot better now...

- steering: splurged on a complete PSC full-hydro system.

I'm still fighting this system to this day. it's been a real PITA. this is in no way due to PSC, their equipment is excelent, but incorporating it into a vehicle that did not want it was another matter. If this thing had had stock PS, it would have been much easier I'm sure. I presently need to pull the pump and reseal it's can reservoir and build a brace for the pump to make it trail worthy again. The pump was torquening on the mount I made and started leaking as the can was smashed into the mount.....

some shots of the mods mentioned above...

traction bar, new shocks, bump stops, etc:
http://infohost.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout027.JPG

http://infohost.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scout041.JPG

hydro:

http://infohost.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scoutsteer4.JPG
http://infohost.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scoutsteer5.JPG

Since the above pic I've replumbed the reservoir closer and gone with a bigger reservoir too. Also added two coolers....

Also added a roof section and a little more to the cage...you can kinda see it here:

http://infohost.nmt.edu/~rselina/scout/scoutsteer1.JPG

Hopefully I'll get around to the fixing the steering next week. I've just been having too much fun playing with this :D :D :D

http://www.ee.nmt.edu/~offroad/images/picKLE-cache/20051021-Coyote/_dsc2410_640.jpg

- swapped the T-18 for one with wide-ratio guts in it. Had to convert to a ford clutch and some other misc stuff to make it work...

Why the ford clutch? Did you combine a Ford t18 with the 4-cyl IH T18? Is the Ford input shaft the same length as the 4-cyl IH input shaft for the T18? They should be pretty close IIRC about the Ford stuff. Maybe it worked, eh? How is the D20 mated, did you keep the IH mainshaft or what did you do?

Basically, I'm interested in hearing more about what you accomplished with the transmission, and how.

the tranny was a project of Matt (urban wheeler) and he has a build thread on it somewhere. It's an IH close-ratio T18 that he combined T18 and ford T18 guts in. The input was a touch bigger diameter and about 1/4" longer than my stocker, so we built a plate to push the stock bell-housing out 1/4" and found a ford clutch (couldn't tell you the part #) that mated to the IH flywheel and fit on the ford input shaft. After that the throwout bearing had to be machined to fit since neither were right, but that just about did it. So to recap - ford input shaft, some ford clutch, IH housing, IH flywheel and bell housing, DIY 1/4" spacer...

Sorta mumbled through that but did it make sense?

I should note that I'm happy with this setup except for my machined throw out bearing. We didn't get the tolerances just right on the lathe and it seems to have a touch too much play. I've had the clutch bind up once or twice on me. It always comes loose again when I push in the pedal a second time, but it's gotten stuck somehow....

just curious as to why you mounted your reservoir through the hood, and I'm sure everyone is gonna ask that LOL

maybe I missed it above..

just curious as to why you mounted your reservoir through the hood, and I'm sure everyone is gonna ask that LOL

maybe I missed it above..

I couldn't get any PS pump brackets to work with this pump and I ended up having to mount it so close to the hood that to get the reservoir up high enough so that the output would be level with the pump input, it would have to protrude from the hood. I was then having issues getting the pump to suck fluid from the reservoir so it went up higher still. LOL. I've got a 11" reservoir protruding out my hood now :shaking: Now that I've sorted out the plumbing, it might be able to drop a bit but not much...all in all, I made that install much more intrusive than it had to be, but at this point I'll settle for it working :laughing:

Hopefully I'll get around to the fixing the steering next week. I've just been having too much fun playing with this :D :D :D

http://www.ee.nmt.edu/~offroad/images/picKLE-cache/20051021-Coyote/_dsc2410_640.jpg


What the hell is it???








I like it!!!! :grinpimp:

Cute rig but you need to brace your stinger better.

I did the Ford 18 swap also.we used the 2wd gear and input shaft.I didn't like the 1/4 inch spacer idea so we turned the end of it down in the lathe.we also made the end fit the IH pilot bearing.I used a scout II 4cyl flywheel.then I ran an 11 disc from a fullsize bronco (1 1/16input shaft)with the scout II 11"pressure plate.we also had to make a custom throwout bearing by opening the ID of the IH one a little larger.it was the single best mods I have ever done to my scout.

It was done to a 63 80 with a 152 FYI.

What the hell is it???

I like it!!!! :grinpimp:

Used to be an 81 jeep wagoneer. It's a blast.

the tranny was a project of Matt (urban wheeler) and he has a build thread on it somewhere. It's an IH close-ratio T18 that he combined T18 and ford T18 guts in.
The tranny build was on JustInternationals, but somehow I can't find it now. Anyway, I had a Ford wide t-18, and all the writeups I had seen were done with a Jeep unit, but I measured the input on both and the Ford unit was .070 bigger, so I was concerned about that. I was going to use a close ratio from an 800, but the shaft was galled. I picked up a SII close t-18 just for the shaft and stuck it back together. I was going to put it in my '64, but then decided on the 4.3.

here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319179) is the copy/paste thread on Pirate. Sorry, no pics.

Lookin good Rob. I like the somewhat low stance it has. Look like it wheels well, too. More pics!

Capt. Sean Lipscomb
RMS Titanic

thanks for the scout Rob. been great so far minus the front axle i busted. i had a 60 front and 14 bolt rear sitting around. so now it sits on those with h1 beadlocks and 39.5 iroks. see if i can get some pics up soon.

I copy some of this build when doing mine, would be nice to see current pic's

thanks for the scout Rob. been great so far minus the front axle i busted. i had a 60 front and 14 bolt rear sitting around. so now it sits on those with h1 beadlocks and 39.5 iroks. see if i can get some pics up soon.

Very cool!

Definitely throw some pics up, I'm eager to see what you've done with it.

How's the rest of it holding up?

ah you sold it man? That sucks...I really like this one. I also like the ZJ in the background. Whats the specs on that? Send me a pm if you want so we dont hi-jack this thread. Pics would be cool too..

still needs some minor work to get back on the trail. shock mounts, different bump stops, finish welding the perches, trim the u-bolts down, and finish rear brake lines, put in the stazworks beadlocks. thats all for this weekend i hope. soon to come....5.38 gears in the 1 tons, something with the motor(lots of blow by makes oil run out.) move the steering pump and resevior, blah, blah, blah

Maybe it wil hang with Yota now:flipoff2::beer::beer::beer:

Awesome, glad to see you're getting somewhere with it.