Many thanks to all who replied with such excellent info/advice for my trip....just need to clear up one key question - Engines

As I am in Japan it seems the range of models/engines offered here is quite different. I have just been offered the following;

BJ74V, 3.4L Diesel 5 Spped Manual
3B-T Engine
1989
80,000Km
Rebuilt suspension
Winch
CD Player

Cost is likely to be around USD4,000

Am happy with everything except I know nothing about the 3B-T engines which were maufactured from 85-90

Several of you have recommended I buy a model with HZ engine but can anyone tell me how the 3B-T compares ?

Thanks again
Dominick

The 13B-T (or 3B-T) is an *excellent* engine, assuming it's been properly maintained. It's based on the industrial B series of engines originally designed by Daihatsu for Toyota, and is essentially a turbo version of the 3B, which has a stellar reputation.

That said, a BJ74 (I'm guessing it's an FRP top?) with 80K kilometers on it for that price seems like a dream, assuming the mechanics are in excellent condition (which they'll need to be for a trip like that). Since it's a 1989, it should have the H55F five-speed manual transmission, make sure that it's smooth shifting, it's a fairly trouble-free transmission but it does have a history of premature synchro wear. Other than that, the only downside I see to a BJ74 on an expedition is the cargo space, which is not abundant. In addition, the presence of an FRP top makes the installation of a roof rack tricky, especially in Japan, you may want to consider some kind of exo-cage upon which the roofrack can be mounted, or even better, start thinking about a trailer to accompany you on the trip. Just a thought, I used to drive an FJ70 that I *loved*, but when I started getting into hard-core expeditions, I found it lacking in cargo area and was forced to sell it.

HTH!

60 Series guy for your informative answers. Think I am going to put in a bid on that basis (it's at an auction). Understaqnd the lack of space issue but think I will just have to travel relatively light....

Re the roof, I presume you mean that the roof can be unbolted (which this one can) ? I am sure that if these are sold in Japan there must be somewhere I can find a decent rack though whether a roof tent will then fit is another issue...

Will get back to you with other Q's if that's o.k.

Dominick

Yes, I can't remember what FRP stands for (is it Fiber Reinforced Polyetilyne or something like that?), but the fact of the matter is that the removable FRP top, which is not metal) will NOT take a roof rack, so you'll have to make other plans. Smaller inside space + no roof rack is going to make for some interesting packing, hope you enjoy powerbars and the smell of diesel (from carrying the jerry cans inside)! :)

FRP = Fibreglass replacement panels, its written on the front at the bottom of the FRP top itself

BJ70s are sweet rigs, SWB/MWB and were available in the SWB with a full body (not detachabale) 3B-t can go hard, i ran 17psi through mine with standard internals and it never missed a beat, and is still a go-hard motor

Auction went well and the aforementioned 89 BJ74V is mine for a little under US$ 4500 !!

Now the small question of customising it for the trip from Vladivostok to Istanbul. Sounds like the recommendations so far are:

Michelin XZL 7.50R16s tyres
OME Suspension
Roof Rack
Long Range Fuel Tank
Full Set of Spares

Options:
Snorkel
Dual Battery system
Roof tent
Shower/Fridge

Anything else I should be thinking about in terms of modifications to the vehicle itself ?

Thanks again

So when do we get to see the picts? HMMMMM, Cmon, we want to see what you got!!!

Got one but it's not on the web, just saved in my computer....

Mail it to me @ Tracknod@cfl.rr.com and I'll post it.

Just so everyone knows.... Here is Dominic's new cruiser.

Locking diffs: In the rear, if your axle is full floating, I'd recommend a Detroit Soflocker, part # 225SL124A. In the front, probably an ARB Air Locker; or just leave it open, since you'll gain about 75% of the possible traction gain with two locking diffs with just the rear locker.
The reason i recommend the detroit in the rear is that it won't affect handling much (I have one in a BJ40 in Anchorage, Alaska and drive it every day on icy roads all winter) and is utterly totally reliable, NOTHING that can possibly fail. The Air Locker is an ingenious item, I own 3 of them. But they are all in front diffs, for ultimate traction for just a few seconds. there are a number of ways for ARBs to fail: compressor, air line, O-rings.
It's possibly you have a limited slip (LSD), or Toyota cable or electric locker. But if you have nothing, and the rig has rear full floaters (hubs sticking out in the center of the rear wheels), the 225SL124A is my strong recommendation.
Charlie

Doesn't all Landcruisers with rear full floting axel as standard have cable/electric lockers?
The 70 series Landcruiser that were sold in Sweden (85-90) with cable lockers had rear full floater axel and the ones that were sold without lockers came with semi floater.
Diesel Landcruiser sold in Japan and Europe have dual bateries and 24v.
I would get some Volvo or Saab front seats because Landcruiser seats aren't the most comfy seats.