Well here's what i been working on.
Just figured id share, plus i have a few questions i need to ask later on.
In the pics you'll see a 5.5" rear lift block, dont worry this is temporary. :barf:
I'm totally redoing this truck. Im putting a 454 in it, sm465, np208, i alredy have the ff14b in and the tires on it. I have a new hood, new doors, new front fenders, and cab corners. I need a set of rockers and a box for it.
I hope i dont get bashed cause I dont wheel rocks.. yes its getting a new paint job, but this truck will get used. There are no rocks around here for me to crawl so i mud and bust through snow.. anyway heres the pics.

http://www.truckworld.com/gallery/rednecked4x4/130239.jpg
here is the 454

http://www.truckworld.com/gallery/rednecked4x4/130345.jpg
as it currently sits

http://www.truckworld.com/gallery/rednecked4x4/130346.jpg

Mud truck....LOL with those tires........ DUDE.....

Mud truck....LOL with those tires........ DUDE.....

i second that DUDE and add a WTF?

Mud truck....LOL with those tires........ DUDE.....


almost as bad as putting a 44 under a fulllsize to play with

Mud truck....LOL with those tires........ DUDE.....

The tires are an easy fix. Once the SM465 is in there though, that's not as simple. Mud trucks have automatic trannies - PERIOD :p


TEX

They would probubly work well in the snow...but not in the mud. You know SD has some great rock crawling in the rapid city area don't you? You must be in the eastern side of the state.

I see some pussy under the truck :D

looks like a good project, i wheel with a guy with almost the same truck (hes got a sbc) the sm465 works great for him and we wheel mainly in the mud, infact ill probably be switching to a 465 in my sammy from a built th350 if that says anything, id just be alittle concerned with the 208, i would find a 205 then go have fun, many on here will make fun of us mud guys but hey we wheel where we have available right?? plus most that will knock a thread on here are just web wheelers, looks like a fun truck keep us updated on how she comes along

joe

ill probably be switching to a 465 in my sammy from a built th350 if that says anything,

It says you haven't spent enough time in the mud to know better :p

TEX

almost as bad as putting a 44 under a fulllsize to play with

Hey dammit I have a d44 in the front of my fullsize.... :flipoff2:

(with chromoly shafts and CTMs... :D )

Yeah, i figured id get commented on the tires. :shaking:
No the tires arent that good in the mud. I had a set of 38" TSLs and they were much better but these will throw mud too. The main reason i like these tires is because they are snow monsters. I dont plan on doing mud drags until i get a set of TSLs or boggers until then these will do. Right now theres about 4-6 inches of snow on the ground and i wishi had it done to play. I had these on the same truck about a year ago then i stripped it out and sold everything but the motor and tires, and i had broken my front driveshaft but i was out playin in the snow and i got stuck in a snowbank along the highway ditch, my rear fenders were hitting snow. It was fucking deep. I put it in reverse, dug down, put it back in D and poured the coals to it and these tires crawled right out. I dont think many people realize what these tires can do. I was sure surprised. If i ever buy a new set of tires, they are guna be Denman Ground Hawgs or another set of STS.
If you think these tires are shitty in snow, bring your TSLs or boggers up and we'll see. Iv owned these and the TSLs and the TSLs wont even compare.

Tex- I am sick of auto trannys. i cannot find one that will hold up to my abuse. I smoked a TH400 transmission that i had dumped about $700 into within 6 months.
I have been to the SDMRA mud drags and a good friend of mine ran with a manual in a CJ7 jeep and he whooped ass. I think he placed 2nd overall.

rcurrier44- Yes, i know the black hills are filled. And yes, i live in the far east. We have some hills around here but there are no rocks in them, just small mud pits. I would have to trailer a long ways away to go rock crawling.

Thanks junkyard joe. I see you are from Green Bay. I have a lot of friends in Wisconsin that come out pheasant hunting and i'v been to Green Bay to a Packers game. Most of our friends are from the Wausau and Eagle River area.

http://www.truckworld.com/gallery/rednecked4x4/130344.jpg
http://www.truckworld.com/gallery/rednecked4x4/130342.jpg
I had to assemble the rear leaf springs, it previously had a 4 inch block with an addaleaf and when i took that off i cut the spring bolt and they fell out of place.

http://www.truckworld.com/gallery/rednecked4x4/130238.jpg
I bet im a poser because i painted my diffential cover too! :flipoff2:

Im not into mud but have been in it plenty to agree Tex.... even if I had a manual the last one Id chose is a slow shifting ass Sm465 with the 3 foot of throw between gears!! You gotta have the RPMS high and the wheels turning fast to do that mud stuff.

and Im just flippin you shit dude....Im sure YOU will enjoy your truck plenty its just not the typical rig that we like to check out on PBB so you will catch shit regardless, its all in fun.

It says you haven't spent enough time in the mud to know better :p

TEX


well i would appreciate a good schooling on why a slush box is better for me in the mud than a manual, my main reasons for considering a swap is:

1 dosnt automaticaly destroy the tranny if you sink your truck (under water)
2 typicaly i hold the tranny in one gear for the big mud holes anyway (@WOT)
3 can pull start the vehicle when the starter gets full of mud and will not start the truck

these may be basic but for out on the trail they seem to be winning me over, now for a mud bogg truck the scene may be diff,

an explanation of your veiw would be appreciated

joe

Tex- I am sick of auto trannys. i cannot find one that will hold up to my abuse. I smoked a TH400 transmission that i had dumped about $700 into within 6 months.
I have been to the SDMRA mud drags and a good friend of mine ran with a manual in a CJ7 jeep and he whooped ass. I think he placed 2nd overall.


Had one in my comp mud rig too, and even for the bogs it was a handicap. Ran drags one time with it & even starting off in the tallest gear I could use to get rolling, I was out of RPM's by 1/2 track. Got thumped by a bunch of guys with less power & more weight. And as far as the reliability, I haven't had your bad luck with auto trannies, but I did go through my fair share of clutches when I had the stick. You're either gonna burn up converters or clutches, so it's 6 one way 1/2 a dozen the other.

As for Junkyard Joe's problems, again haven't had any more reliability issues on my play truck with autos than I did when I ran a stick, and the ability to shift can come in handy. The pull-start option is about the only real arguement in favor of a stick IMO. I've certainly seen my share of starters go bye-bye.

TEX

I have ran both in the mud and I will never go back to a stick there. My tow rig has one, the farm truck has one, but the mud trucks and hill climbers and rock crawlers are slushbox creatures. True, you can dump the clutch in whatever gear you plan to be in, but if you run out of revs you are screwed and if you pick too tall for the situation, you are screwed. No reverse wheel speed. Some might say that reverse is overrated, but I call bullshit. I have driven into several spots and then said "oh shit and had to back out. It is nicer to have some wheel speed and keep shit cleaned out.
I ran the 465/205 and 36 tsl's for about 3 yrs and the only time I liked it was when the engine I had in it was so weak that I needed that extra rev and dump to get everything moving like it needed to. Other than that, even with burning up a few a year and breaking cases I still prefer the autos. I know it is personal preference and it really boils down to your wheeling style. In the mud I think autos are king, you don't crawl mud :p

Sorry about ranting on the hijack
Big blocks, big tires and a clutch getting let go = not good for a little front end. Just sayin.
I ran one for a long time with a moderate small block and was changing axles every weekend. :shaking:
I love old chevys and ran both of mine until there was nothing left. Go for it, it is a blast. You might learn and put an auto in it after a while though :flipoff2: (re-end hijack) :laughing:

http://www.truckworld.com/gallery/rednecked4x4/130238.jpg
I bet im a poser because i painted my diffential cover too! :flipoff2:


Nooooo, you painted your diff cover because you are a poser!

Whatever you say man. I had the cover off because of work i was doing on it, and i had some Case IH paint laying around (which is wierd cause we run a john deere farm) so i figured what the hey.

BlackSheep10- I can get d44's so cheap around here, its ridiculous. The d44 is only temporary. I have had my eye out for a dana 60 for quite some time. I'v ran across a few but im not guna pay $1000 for them. As soon as i see a 1 ton for sale or come across a junkyard with one for cheap, i'll keep tossing d44s in. I have 3 of them sitting in my barn right now.

In my defense, like i said before. I am sick of auto trannys. I have gone through so many auto trannys and dumped so much $ into them than i'd care to count. I'm trying something different. If i decide that i dont like the manual, i'll switch back to an auto. I plan on keeping my steering column for that very reason. Thanks for the compliments so far.

Tonight i dropped the 1 gas tank i had. The other was rusted out. This is where i need help. I am comfortable with running hte factory dual tanks they were designed for, but if i were to buy a custom fuel cell, where could i mount it? besides inside the box? I'm looking for ideas here, if i decide to go with the saddle tanks i'm going to order new fuel senders on monday. Has anyone put a custom fuel cell in? If so where?

Thanks

In the bed...
https://home.comcast.net/~griffon19/fuelcell.jpg

But the idea is to drop it down through the bed sometime so it is half above and half below and build a tool box above it. In the bed isnt too bad but id recomend a wider and flat one if you do go that route.

On my last one ('80 chevy 1 ton) I took a blazer tank and put it below the bed between the rails up against the cab. It just cleared the rear shaft with no lift and held a bunch of fuel. I never had a bit of trouble with it. I actually got it from muddobber40 (who posted earlier in this thread) along with his flatbed. He could tell you the exact application. A cell could be put in the same place. The cell won't be as puncture resistant as the tank unless you skidplate it, but that would help with the retention anyway. I would suggest you PMing him and asking what it was out of, it is the ticket, and cheap ;)

Thanks blacksheep. Did you just use longer hose and mount the filler neck in the original door on the fender? Do you have any pics of it?

I have a couple other questions...

http://www.truckworld.com/gallery/rednecked4x4/130357.jpg

In that pic, my voltemeter guage is missing one of them clips. The guage plugs into the clips. My question is what is connected to the clips? Can i just get a clip to replace it? or is there something on the backside of the clip that reads the guage?


If i decide to go with the saddle tanks I'll have to use this plug in.
http://www.truckworld.com/gallery/rednecked4x4/130356.jpg

If you look close you can see one wire that goes up towards my thumb, where the heck does that go? It comes out of the plug but i cant see where it goes anywhere? Any ideas?

Thanks

I would not recomend putting it over the d-shaft but if you do make sure your bumpstops will keep the shaft out of the tank att full comp AND put safety hoops on both ends of the shaft ....... or just pray alot

A volt meter only has 2 connections .... positive and negative

it goes to the fuse panel. looks like its gonna be fun! but its not redneck enough!!!

red neck rules to 4x4

1 dont paint it, primer it!the more colors the better
2 the bigger the lift the bigger the lift blocks are.
3 no stock bumpers 2x6s are double points
4 blanket for a seat cover and somthing weird hanging from the mirror.
5 you need 1 rebel flag/sticker and minimum of 7 motor performance stickers.
6 you must always have 1 [or 2] mismatched rims. 4 completely different is best.

points are 1 point per item. ex. 2 colors of primer , 2 points. 1 point for all 7 high perf stickers.

my truck only scores a 5 [ primer 2x , x flag, 7 perf, mirror ]
i know some one has to do better than that.


add rules and points values to see if we hit the redneckedness winner bell thingy

have a blast!!

well take it from someone running a d44 and a 465 in front of a 205. it works for mud, as a matter of fact it works really well for mud. i have been running my setup for approx 7 years and have never had a problem with any of these parts. i have smoked 1 clutch (and it was still working when it was replaced just very very glazed), been through numerous sets or tires including wranglers, tsl, and am currently running boggers. and trust me it is no street queen, hell technically its not even street legal, as most of the lights dont work anymore. and for people that are going to say i must not wheel i have this for them, the truck has been flipped swamped, rear ended and have rear ended other friends trucks. jumps terraces while coyote hunting all the time and bounced off its fair share of trees.
and although i have been though 4 engines in the time i have owned it everytime it has driven home. and when it was flipped it had broken left front leaf causing the axle to rotate when turned to the right. so i say build the truck the way you want drive her like hell and worry about replacing parts IF they fail. but the ones in question i can attest to have never never let me down. and if you need pics to prove it let me know and i would be happy to post up to stir the pot.

and btw it is a redneck truck too confederate flag on the roof, primered black, and 2 that were left out in the list, rust holes filled with newspaper and bondo, and a rollbar with fake kc lights on it.

3 no bumeprs of any sort.


I think this rule is flexible. When I took my ACT (during HS) at a nearby HS, I saw one of the kids there driving a brand new Toyota Taco that had mud tires, the triple tube chrome rollbar in the bed, and the fog lights with smiley face covers. Then, to top it off, the factory rear bumper had been removed and a decent sized tree trunk had been bolted into its place. :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

So I think we should make an "anything wood" clause to add to the redneck list.

Okay... you guys got me.. the truck doesnt look very redneck right now.. but its mainly a redneck truck because of the guy who drives it.

Around here a redneck truck has CB antennas, a gun rack, loud exaust, stickers, and either a set of john deere mudflaps or a farm diesel tank in back.

trkklr77- Do you mean the wire from that plug in for the tank selector goes to the fusebox?

i belive it does. i was gona swap the duals/wiring and all it to my 77 single and got every thing pulled till i got to the fire wall and lost the main power wire to the back of the fuse panel, i gave up on it.

BTW, since you mentioned the SD mud racing group, do you know Paul Swenson from Woonsocket? He raced in Street Stock at one of my events in 2002.

TEX

I'm purdy sure that puttin a sm-465 tranny for mud drags or any kind of drag that doesn't involve men in dresses MAKES it redneck truck. generally you can sniff one out if it's built because they wanna and not just to make it better has any amount of any color tractor paint chrome on a diffy or shock or any truck that loses 10% of it's resale value every time the owner (or owner's kid) drives it into the garage. 15% if it's at a buddy's house.
ps. knee-high rubber boots stuffed between the cab and bed help

trkklr- I think that wire is the one that plugs on top of the fuel sender on the top of the gas tank. Does that sound right? Because that plug in plugs into the tank selector valve, then goes across the frame to the drivers side, then follows teh frame all the way up into the cab. So I cant believe it would have to run back there again?

I found out my frame is twisted! GREAT! I'm thinking a portapower might straighten it. The drivers side framerail is twisted. the bottom is pushed in about 1 1/4 from the top.

TEX- Doesn't ring a bell. I only know 2 of the guys that are regulars there. They have bought parts from me. Was he racing in missouri?

i have to agree w/topeka chevy i have an 80 k5 w/ 350/465/205/d44/10 bolt
followed by 276 gears (these are factory & coming out in spring)
have had this beatch damn near buried,on it's side,nose diving in a ditch,pulled my nephews k5 out of a mudhole while his drunk ass had his in park,(i found some dry ground next to him).made several new trails in the old rock quarry=lots a new dents.
i've put some heavy abuse on old "stock" chebby stuff & never broke an axle.
springs yes,auto trans X2 yes,drive shafts,a few,i used to wheel like an idiot,did'nt care because parts are so cheap ,reverse does SUCK in the 465.bla bla bla.
finishing up a stroker,have 373's to install,good enough for what i do.
boy does kansas suck.
any way,not much for rock crawling here,but we all seem to have a blast.
stock chevy's rule for redneck dawgs, no need to overbuild it if you can't use it,spend the saved $ on beer :D

looks good travis.. just so you know.. that "d44" is a 10 bolt :laughing: :flipoff2:
ohyeah dont worry i painted my diff cover too :p

http://aproducts.tford.net/truck/P1220217.jpg

dont worry i painted my diff cover too :p
Yeah but you're ok because the "hot pink anything on a toyota" clause dated 1983 in the book of cool has never been challenged to this day and thus still stands. :flipoff2:

:flipoff2: hot pink rocks !

Only on toyota's ... anywhere else it's :gay: :D

TEX- Doesn't ring a bell. I only know 2 of the guys that are regulars there. They have bought parts from me. Was he racing in missouri?

Yeah, he came down to my race in Platte City, Missouri. But, he's a regular on the circuit in SD. Runs kind of a burgundy colored Ford on 37's.

TEX