Hey all,

I have been fiddling with a 92 classic off and on for the better part of a year and my woman complained since day one that when you put the peddle to the floor the truck chokes and stalls. Over the last year we have done plugs, wires, dizzy cap & button, coil, ign. amp, checked timing [6deg seems to run good], fuel pump and some more small things.

For some reason this truck just seemed to go to shit one day, first the windows stopped all together and eventually I had to rewire them, then the sunroof, then the fuel pump wiring blah blah blah it's been a nitemare. If anyone has any suggestions on this problem it would make my night life :grinpimp: a hell-uv-a lot better.

Hey all,

I have been fiddling with a 92 classic off and on for the better part of a year and my woman complained since day one that when you put the peddle to the floor the truck chokes and stalls.

Explain this better...the engine actually stalls? Or does it stutter until it gets up in the RPMs? Does it just happen at idle to full throttle, or from part throttle to full throttle too?

This was happening with my 3.5 (though maybe not the same as your description is too vague)...timing pretty much cured it, but you may also want to look at the diaphragm in the vacuum advance of your distributor. Another suspicion may be your timing chain...good luck.

My unix kungfu is better than yours... I love your tag line, I told my woman hackers can drive Rovers.

From no or partial throttle to full the whole thing chokes then dies completely and needs a restart.

How much vacuum should I pull off the dizzy?

My unix kungfu is better than yours... I love your tag line, I told my woman hackers can drive Rovers.

From no or partial throttle to full the whole thing chokes then dies completely and needs a restart.

How much vacuum should I pull off the dizzy?


I'm not a hacker, though some will argue I am a hack...

Hmmm...the complete death thing puzzles me. I no longer think it's the vacuum advance (BTW, you'd want to use a vacuum pump to test the dizzy...no leaks are the goal, otherwise the diaphragm is shot). Have you checked your on-board code display? Any codes for the TPS or MAF?

Is the new Cap & Rotor you used Genuine? I never thought it really mattered until I had a similar problem, and the final cure was to dump the non-Gen. parts that only had 5k on them and put in some new genuine. This made a world of difference.
Try this simple test; take the Dist. cap off, pull the coil wire from the cap & hold it 3mm from the rotor, then crank the engine. If you get any spark the rotor is toast (even if it looks okay, toss it and buy a new one).
The other part of my problem was the vac. module on the side of the Dist. if the diaphram is bad it'll cut and stall when you apply throttle.

Modi,

The parts are all genuine even the evil coil... I am planning on checking the vac adv along with some other things this week...fuel pressure ETC.

I will post my findings.

Thanks,