Has this ever happend to you?

the strap bolts got loose

Yeah, common as hell with straps. Get some u bolts. Looks like your yokes have enough room in the back for nuts. Drill them out and find the u bolts that fit. use lock washers and it will all be fine.

I have the same problem and am doing exactly what blacksheep said to my 14 bolt. I also have a problem with the straps stretching and the caps spinning in the yoke like this...you can see the shiney part ware it has been spinning.

http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/album157/DCP00486.sized.jpg

just a tip...
you can use a center punch and put a pattern of punch makes in the radious of the yoke. it will tighten things up,and prevent the cap spin.

i snapped a 1410 yoke apart on a front 60 already from straps coming loose, never again will i use them, the extra $$ spent on the ubolt style yokes is more than worth the peice of mind.

Caps start to spine when the yokes are getting old and stretched.

interesting
I woould like to see what is left of the needle bearings if it is easier to spin the cap then the bearings
ever grease them?:

When I bought a new 1310 yoke for my TravelAll's NP205 from my local driveshaft shop, it came with straps instead of u-bolts like the original yoke had. The straps came with bolts that had green nylon coated on the threads like dried threadlocker. According to the driveshaft shop owner, they go in fairly easy, but come out with difficulty from the friction the one directional thread in created. So my question is, do the bolts you all have used with straps come with nylon coated on the threads to prevent loosening?

when i used to run those kind of yokes (but not with the thread locker stuff) the bolts stayed tight, but the straps stretched.

I agree with Reddman, I have had the bolts so fawking tight that you are sure you are going to twist them off and the cap can still spin. It is the stretched strap that causes a lot of it, along with, as someone else mentioned, a worn yoke. the main reason that the yoke wears in this manner is because the caps stretch and let the joint waller around in there a bit. If everything stays tight and locked down like it should, it is not an issue. Straps only put a little bit of pressure because you can see how their design is made so that it has little contact area and the down pressure is minimal compared to a u bolt. after the holes get a little slop at the outsides and the strap distorts a bit, there is almost no down pressure on the cap, letting it rotate, distort the yoke, etc. A vicious cycle. I never saw it as a problem until the only thing that broke on the blacksheep under very hard usage was a tranny case and a stupid ass strap on the 14 rear. Definitely a problem area.

I got the strap kit forn the local parts house

the bolts did not have any lock on them

I may of have ben an little gunshy when i put them in
I broke the first one off so I had to take off the yoke and fish it out
so I thay may of have ben a little lose to start with :emb2:

o well easy fix got to get busy gunna wheel saturday :D

interesting
I woould like to see what is left of the needle bearings if it is easier to spin the cap then the bearings
ever grease them?:

Yep greese them before every run...its a dedicated wheeler. Last time I had the drive shaft off the needle bearings looked fine. I think the yoke is just plain worn out from the straps not holding tight. It even has some slop left to right - in and out of the cap. The funny thing is there is very little angle in that u-joint even with the suspension drooped out. So the joint doesn't do much...but still spins the caps.

I have tried hitting the straps with a hammer to get them to tighten up, they just loosen right back up. I'll try a punch next time to demple the strap and yoke to see if it helps. The real fix however will be to install u-bolts in the new axles that are going in it.

Yep greese them before every run...its a dedicated wheeler. Last time I had the drive shaft off the needle bearings looked fine. I think the yoke is just plain worn out from the straps not holding tight. It even has some slop left to right - in and out of the cap. The funny thing is there is very little angle in that u-joint even with the suspension drooped out. So the joint doesn't do much...but still spins the caps.

I have tried hitting the straps with a hammer to get them to tighten up, they just loosen right back up. I'll try a punch next time to demple the strap and yoke to see if it helps. The real fix however will be to install u-bolts in the new axles that are going in it.
Yeah, wasn't going to say anything to seem like an asshole, but I had one with almost NO angle on it that got greased regularly and it started spinning the cap. The cap will just spin circles in there. seized bearings would cause it to rotate back and forth the few degrees that the joint is at, not the whole way around. It is just the design flaw (for our uses anyway) :laughing:

i just put 1350 and 1410 yokes on my 60/70, both u bolt style. if i can avoid one trail fix from this (im sure it will really be more) then i think it was worth it. not having to worry is so nice. if you can mod your strap yokes to fit ubolts, do it, if not, and they have caused you problems, upgrade.

Rob, Redd,

Did you go for ubolt style yokes, or did you modify a strap-style yoke to run ubolts?

I put a Neapco yoke on my 12 bolt to avoid this very problem

not only are those a U-bolt style, but they also have a much larger retention "ear" to hold the u-joint straight

Anyone have any problems with modded yokes? Do you just drill out the threads in the yoke and take a die grinder to the back side to make a flat surface for the nuts/lock washers?

Rob, Redd,

Did you go for ubolt style yokes, or did you modify a strap-style yoke to run ubolts?

I just swaped to 1410 u-bolt yokes with the new axles/drive shafts....

But I have seen alot of people just modify the stock yoke. Grab a rear np205 yoke from a 3/4 ton chevy and use that as a guide for modifying yours. The front face needs to be ground down and rear face need to be flattened for the nut. The holes for the straps are a little different spacing than the u-bolts but I have herd of people just drilling them out and being fine.

It would be best if you had a buddy with a mill and then you could drill the holes offset with a endmill. You can do it all with a drill press, diegrinder and angle grinder however...

Oh and I have a 205 u-bolt style 1350 rear output yoke you could borrow if you need a guide....

just an odd ball question my one tons came out of a an 88 chevy were those supposed to come with u bolts as both axels have u bolts the t-case has a flange front and u bolt rear