Although I'll probably sit out the 2002 wheeling season, there is one project that I do want to take on, and that is an upgrade of my front and rear brakes. The subject is a 1991 FJ62, stock front brakes, rear axle is out of a 1983 FJ60. For various reasons, I am not convinced that I want rear disk brakes. That said, what is the consensus for building the best brake system? I want to hear opinions on the master cylinder, the calipers, the rotors, the drums.

FWIW, I need a reliable system that works well on and off road, since this is a daily driver. And before some wiseass brings it up, I am aware that this is a 7,000+ lb. brick on 35" tires, so I don't expect the brakes to work like those on a Porsche, I just want to improve on the current setup and feel confident when my wife drives the truck.

I've thought up going to the non-US, stock Land Cruiser wider drums/pads for the rear, I used to have them in the truck when I had the Dana 60 and the difference was noticeable. But there are some lingering issues about fitment with the semi-floater backing plate, and I don't want to be a guinea pig!

Give me some comments and feedback, guys, this is an important project for me!

Silly question, HC, but does your rig have a LSPV? If so, has it been adjusted for the lift?

Not a silly question at all, Cruiserman. The Princess did not come with an LSPV, it's Third World spec, I'm lucky I got front disk brakes, there were still 60 series in other markets with drum brakes all around....

hey henry!
i'd probably install and adjustable proportioning valve ( can be bought from jeggs, summit,.....) costs about $45 and is super easy to install and adjust.
there is not a whole lot more good stuff out there that i'm aware of but there is a guy on e-bay who sells cross-drilled and vented rotors for the front. i think they run about $120 each. with 35's that should help. you might want to consider running stainless braided lines as well; that'll eliminate "brake fade".
let me know what you find out, my wife's 60 is the next major project on my list and it will be SOA with 35's as well.
good luck, georg:D

You might want to take a look at a Hydro boost system. Most of the new heavy duty trucks use them, as do Motor homes. One of the guys, (Old Scout), on the general 4x4 bulletin board turned me on to the idea. It puts out more pressure than a standard vacum power booster and takes up less space on your firewall. Downside is that it runs off a hydraulic power steering pump so you need to install a new pump.

You might want to take a look at a Hydro boost system. Most of the new heavy duty trucks use them,

Huh....

My daily is a 97 F350 4X4 crew cab powerstroke...
It has a Vacuum power booster.
This is driven by a vac. pump that also supplies the vac system for vent control etc. NO lack of brakes...
The Hydro systems were ussually seem on diesels due to a diesels lack of intake vacuum. So, use the power steering pump as a source of pressure to assist the brakes.

Hydro isn't any stronger.... Just another way of assisting at the pedal.

Vac systems are way simpler and very adequate.

Cory

Henry, why not rear discs??????

A Hydro-boost is out of the question, what little space remains in the engine compartment is reserved for a York! Good suggestion, though, I appreciate it.

I've avoided rear disk brakes because I've never talked to anyone who's done it on a 60 series and didn't run into some kind of problems with them...does anyone have any feedback on these?

I thought slotted and cross-drilled was good for the road but not good for off-road????

Also, I've heard of people using a different (bigger) brake master cylinder, maybe out of an 80 series or a newish Toyota truck?

I read about a guy in Saudi Arabia thad had a 700hp Landcruiser 80 and he used 4 piston alcon calipers and it stoped realy good.

On a semi-f rear, the disc brake caliper will keep the rear wheel from pulling the axle out if the axle does break. Before you say it never will, ask Nolen. I know of 2 60 rear axles that broke last year, and one axle was pulled out some, causing loss of braking power and loss of control as the 60 slid downhill backwards and rolled over. I am putting 60 axles on my 45 wagon and plan to use supra or 80 master cylinder and Eldorado calipers with a pair of TSM brackets. Also will be adding power assist with an adapter from Wardens.

Originally posted by DonM
On a semi-f rear, the disc brake caliper will keep the rear wheel from pulling the axle out if the axle does break. Before you say it never will, ask Nolen. I know of 2 60 rear axles that broke last year, and one axle was pulled out some, causing loss of braking power and loss of control as the 60 slid downhill backwards and rolled over. I am putting 60 axles on my 45 wagon and plan to use supra or 80 master cylinder and Eldorado calipers with a pair of TSM brackets. Also will be adding power assist with an adapter from Wardens.

That is a fact!

What problems are you talking about Henry with rear disc brakes?

If you properly adjust your proportioning valve you will LOVE The rear discs on the road.

Don't overthink this one (I know, hard to do ;) )

Why the hell are you sitting out the 2002 wheeling season? Dude, ar eyou punishing yourself for living in DC?

Suck it up soldier! Get behind the wheel of that beast, put in in 4LOW and WHEEL!!!

OK, off my soapbox.

:D

When it comes to brakes, bigger is better. I'm building a 4-Runner and swapping in the front axle from an FZJ80. It comes with some rather large calipers and rotors. The rotors measure over 12" in diameter and a nice fat 1.25" wide. The regular cruiser and minitrucks run a 11" x .80"ish rotor. The FZJ comes with a suitably larger 4 pot cast iron caliper. You'll need a FJ80 master cylinder, too... I know they bolt into the mini trucks, so I'll assume they fit the 62 series. Not sure what parts from the 80 axle you will need.

These will probably be your closest bolt on.... otherwise you'll be looking into something custom (non Toyota). BTW, they will fit under some 15" wheels.

Brian

If you are interested in possibly changing wheels the T100 front calipers are a bolt on. Had a set on my truck but wheels were an issue. I think they will fit with other type of wheels, but not sure. They are huge, 4 piston and have a lot bigger pistons and pads. They did not fit with my aftmkt steel wheel which incidently did not fit even with stock L/C calipers(had to grind a bit), b/c the truck still had drums on it when I did the new wheels.

I put an adjustable Summit proportioning valve(made by Wilwood) in my truck and it helps a ton with brake biasing, and you can adjust the bias for differnet loads in the back...

Stainless braided hoses instead of the rubber will make the pedal feel a bit firmer b/c there is less expansion in the braided hose.

Someone makes brakets to mount the toyota calipers onto a S/F rear axle with minitruck rotors. Then you would have to fork out the cash for the non us park brake if yours is not so equiped. They are solidly mounted to the axle so I am not sure how the c-clip slop would affect this but they have been doing it for a while, and with that setup there is almost no way to separate the axle flange from the housing...

[QUOTE]Originally posted by wngrog
[B]

That is a fact!

Why the hell are you sitting out the 2002 wheeling season? Dude, ar eyou punishing yourself for living in DC?

NO more than usual, I guess. Mostly, because the truck needs *work*, and the Cruiser budget has been slashed this year. I don't want to go to GSMTR with the truck high-geared and with iffy brakes...

Suck it up soldier! Get behind the wheel of that beast, put in in 4LOW and WHEEL!!!


Er...where? To wheel around here you need to put it OVERDRIVE, for the *loooooong* drive to the closest trails! :)

Thanks a lot, Brett, I appreciate the recommendations. Does anyone besides TSM make RDB brackets for the 60 series?

Originally posted by 60seriesguy

Er...where? To wheel around here you need to put it OVERDRIVE, for the *loooooong* drive to the closest trails! :) [/B]

Buck up, there are always places to wheel. Personally I am a big fan of golf courses. Sometimes those sand traps can be pretty challenging!!!

:D

Seriously, the rear Disk brake conversion should be nothing but a godsend if done correctly. I see no reason why drilled rotors are not as good off road. I know my Dirtbike and the Banshee both have vented rotors...

If you come out to Vegas or something Give me a ring. I'll take you out!!!

henry!
look in a hot rod magazine for other manufacturers for rear disc conversions. i've used TSM a few times and you can't beat their product and instructions for the price. they even go so far as to give you exact aftermarket part #s for the rest of the parts you're going to need and they tell you how much they sell them for.
stainless steel brake Co. is another one that comes to mind; a bit pricey. shop around, but i'd suggest TSM for sure.
i'm thinking about doing discs on the rear of my 60. i've had great results on my other trucks with 4wdb. first on a chevy with 38's and on my 45 wagon. just make sure you run a big enough booster/master and the proportioning valve.
over and out.
PS: when are you going to move out to the right coast? can i entise you a little with the 45 run? at least 15 rigs and growing!

Henry,
Heres the link for the discussion on the the mini truck front brake setup on the rear of minis and cruisers. Its down a few posts, I think the link is in Toy Tech's....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14765&highlight=mini+disc+calipers+rear

HTH.

Henry, go with the RDB I love em. I would be more than willing and happy to answer any questions you have. I went with the Downey brackets and now have them on my 40 and have been very happy with them, decent price easy mounting. I prefer to buy my stuff piece by piece rather than in a kit but that is up to you,I have seen the TSM stuff and it also looks good. Feel free to send any questions you may have my way. Oh and one last thing use an 80 series master built in proportioning valve, and bigger bore, need the disk brake one before ABS got the part number somwhere.

Go to woody's site, look on the brake section, one of the RDB articles has a pdf file with complete measurements, etc of the RDB brackets....My dad and i are making our own....lots cheaper. you will need to download adobe viewing software to see the image...by the way, if you have a large plotter, it will have the ability to print to scale!