: Got the 60 in my sammy!


Gozuki
02-13-2002, 06:32 PM
J/K, taking it in to work for a little mill action on the bottom...:flipoff2:

twistedmetal
02-13-2002, 07:42 PM
I think you should mount it closer to the center of the Sammi so it doesn't upset the fragile balance of a Zuk. :flipoff2:

Gozuki
02-14-2002, 08:43 PM
After milling 1.75" off the bottom at neutral operating angle:

Gozuki
02-14-2002, 08:44 PM
After welding on the bottom plate...

DemoMike
02-14-2002, 08:50 PM
So, um, what are you gonna put that 60 under? :bounce2:

BTW, the pics are cool.

fatkid
02-14-2002, 11:24 PM
You have my attention now, what's the story...:)

Gozuki
02-15-2002, 09:10 AM
The "plan" is to replace my 1.6 with a 95 ford 3.0 v6 and manual 5 spd, D300... After its in and running, I will replace the adapter I made for the 5spd to d300 with a Klune "klone"...The d300 is a centered output, gotta lose the offset rear 44.

squirrelman83
02-15-2002, 10:19 AM
Why the Ford 3.0L? Coming from a strong Ford Ranger, I'm just curious as that tended to be a pretty weak motor and I've seen that compared to my Ranger 4.0L. I'm sure it would be more than fine in a little lightweight Zuk, though. :D ~Steve

TNToy
02-15-2002, 11:42 AM
Should be okay. I had a 3.0 in my Ranger. It was "average" speed... (slow but liveable) so it should push a Zuk fine. Don't imagine it would be worth swapping into anything heavier, though.

suzuki w/the HEAT
02-18-2002, 04:54 PM
3.0l head cracker? I've got the part # for the ford heads on these motors if you need it. these crack all the time. aerostars,taurus,ranger,even the all wheel drive tempos. my OPINION would be 4.0 also. these motors make alot more torque and horse power. the exploder has tons of torqe and those things are heavy.

Gozuki
02-18-2002, 09:02 PM
It is very compact. And being as it was offered transverse mounted (taurus etc), you can change the accessories to car pulleys and brackets to lose another 1.5" of OAL...From main pulley to rear yoke of Dana 300, I am only 1" longer than stock...I can push it forward, and leave the tcase and rear shaft the same length...Plus I picked up the whole thing for $500.:D

oldjeep
02-19-2002, 05:39 AM
Nice work, looks like you got closer to the bolt holes than I did. Explain "neutral operating angle" please?

Thanks

dumb
02-19-2002, 08:52 AM
Damn! :eek: I thought I was going to be the first one (ok maybe on this board) to run a 60 under the zuk! Alright Gozuki the race is on(LOL):flipoff2:! I'm picking up my 60 this weekend (bet you can't beat my price though... I got a d44 front and 60 rear complete for $100 CDN -- that's right $60 USD)! Keep the progress pics coming. Did you have to turn the ring or pinion down to make the cut?

Dave
aka Shogunator

Gozuki
02-19-2002, 09:10 AM
My 44 operates at 18 degrees "tipped up", to point at the tcase. (CV shaft). So I turned this upside down on the mill at work, pointed it 18 deg down. So now when it it bolted in, the plate is parallel to the ground. I have already converted it to 6 lug, and welded the carrier, got the gears, waiting for a yoke...Mike