: hybrid 60/LC seal question
Jason M 02-14-2002, 08:17 AM Now I know someone out there has done it. How did they broach the issue with inner seals on the LC housing when building a hybrid axle?? LC seals are right next to the knuckle. 60 axle seals are right next to the pumpkin. Or am I missing something here????
Jason M 02-14-2002, 10:09 AM Come on... some one has to know!!!!!
sixty 02-14-2002, 10:32 AM Jason,
Check this writeup out. http://www.geocities.com/bbuiltparts/Front_hybridAxle_Article.html?999474575816
Its a 9" dana 60 hybrid That had the same problem. he used the dana 60 tubes w/ the seal machined into them. If you were going w/ custom axle shafts you could have a seal seat built into them anywhere on the shaft, meaning you could splice the crusier/60 tues anywhere. In theary this may work but practice will be a whole other ball game.
HTH
wngrog 02-14-2002, 11:42 AM SIXTY is right, you don't just weld the 60 knuckles on and be done with it. All you will actually use of the Toyota axle is the pumpkin itself, the rest will be custom tubed to D60 specs.
I talked to a guy the other day that is having some 35 spline side gears made for his Toyota ARB at a machine shop. That is something for you to think about with this rig.....
Would be totally cool with 35 spline inners and outers on this hybrid you are making.
sixty 02-14-2002, 11:59 AM Originally posted by wngrog
SIXTY is right, you don't just weld the 60 knuckles on and be done with it. All you will actually use of the Toyota axle is the pumpkin itself, the rest will be custom tubed to D60 specs.
I talked to a guy the other day that is having some 35 spline side gears made for his Toyota ARB at a machine shop. That is something for you to think about with this rig.....
Would be totally cool with 35 spline inners and outers on this hybrid you are making.
Or swap in a complete 60 & be done w/ it. The hybrid would be cool but I don't see much advantage to keeping the cruiser diff. other than frront & rear swapablilty & a little extra clearance. w/ 35 spline inners you would have to have arb front & rear or swap carriers to utilize that conveinence. let me know If I'm missing something (would not be the first time).
Jason M 02-14-2002, 12:04 PM I see your point. But I have seen 60 knuckles welded on to the cruiser axle. AP does this with the mini housings which are very similar to the Lc housings.
http://www.allprooffroad.com/pics/3335.jpg
Here is a pic of their seal.....
http://www.allprooffroad.com/pics/d60/4263.jpg
It looks like they build a bracket for the thing. I wonder if they would sell just that bracket???????
35 spline inners would be TITS!!! I wonder if a Detroit could be fabbed up that way...
Jason M 02-14-2002, 12:11 PM Originally posted by sixty
Or swap in a complete 60 & be done w/ it. The hybrid would be cool but I don't see much advantage to keeping the cruiser diff. other than frront & rear swapablilty & a little extra clearance. w/ 35 spline inners you would have to have arb front & rear or swap carriers to utilize that conveinence. let me know If I'm missing something (would not be the first time).
Admittedly there is a bit of cool factor that I am going for here. In fact I found two Dana 60's in a Junkyard for $450 a piece..
But this is what I am thinking.....
Get a Ford RC Dana 60 front, cut off the knuckles for the cruiser/60 hybrid
Then take the RC60 housing and gears turn it around so it will fit the rear axle (proper offset even :D ) And put big bearing 9" ends on it. Then have dutchman strange or someone else make a set of semifloating 35 spline 1.5" axles for the bugger...
Front and rear axles made for a very low cost...
I seriously doubt that the cruiser motor would do any damage to the SF rear. And I like the idea of getting the pinion up and off of the ground..
I love the clearance of the Toy axle. I might go bigger tire size one day but we will see.
sixty 02-14-2002, 12:24 PM There would be some serious cool factor there. just alot of work & thats what scares me :eek: I'm pretty lazy. but thats a pretty good idea. as for the cruiser motor, you plan on keeping that thing:confused: j/k
Jason M 02-14-2002, 12:28 PM Originally posted by sixty
as for the cruiser motor, you plan on keeping that thing:confused: j/k
Uh huh :D But that is another topic of discussion...
200hp LC motor mmmmm
At least for now. If the ideas do not work then a Chebby or ford or hell even a caddy motor might be in the works. Actually just about any motor that is different... 360??? OOOoooo how bout a International 390!!!
I know I will total the F350, get a new one, buy the old one back and use the motor, tranny and an atlas to rip apart the old cruiser frame!!!! :D :bounce: :bounce2: :bounce: :bounce2: :bounce: :bounce2:
sixty 02-14-2002, 12:48 PM or 250hp chevy motor w/ efi :D
I hot rodded my fj60 motor. a total PITA lots of $$$ & its guttless compared to my 350'd fj60. I kick myself in the ass every time I have to drive the 2f. smog laws?? pahrump!!
Jason M 02-14-2002, 12:50 PM There are always other ideas.. I am running propane so the EFI does not really bother me much. so at 100 octane fuel I could really kick the compression up. Or use a turbo.....
Not worried about smog laws at all.
Besides, everyone does a 350. I thought we were driving cruisers to be different :flipoff2: :D
sixty 02-14-2002, 01:02 PM Originally posted by Jason M
There are always other ideas.. I am running propane so the EFI does not really bother me much. so at 100 octane fuel I could really kick the compression up. Or use a turbo.....
Not worried about smog laws at all.
Besides, everyone does a 350. I thought we were driving cruisers to be different :flipoff2: :D
Actually most of us drive them b/c they are the best vehicle in the world!! :eek: :eek: :D A stroked turbo'd 2f would be pretty awesome. you would probably be in the area of 225 to 250+ hp if you went w/ a large carb (600cfm+) & big exhaust. definately one of a kind :smokin: but then you better be careful w/ that full floater ;)
wngrog 02-14-2002, 02:01 PM You want cool factor? Once the Pig is paid off........
6.2 Black Scorpion Mercruiser
Propshaft power (HP/kW)
330/248
Cylinders
V-8
Bore & Stroke (inch/mm)
4.00 x 3.48/101 x 88
Compression ratio
9.4:1
Fuel system
MPI
Ignition system
MEFI/EST digital
Full throttle range (RPM)
4800-5200
Length (inch/mm)
43/1092
Width (inch/mm)
29/737
Height (inch/mm)
21/533
Weight with Velvet transmission (lb/kg)
880/400
Jason M 02-14-2002, 02:13 PM Is that what is going in Kate??????:eek:
You are outta controll man!!!
Love it!!!:D
wngrog 02-14-2002, 02:22 PM Originally posted by Jason M
Is that what is going in Kate??????:eek:
You are outta controll man!!!
Love it!!!:D
Just beginning the collection phase :)
Say, you think it's cool enough?
Jason M 02-14-2002, 02:24 PM I just want to see the looks on people faces when you pop the hood!!!!
:D
Yeah I think you got the "cool factor" covered..
Gonna have it in By Moab????:D
wngrog 02-14-2002, 02:32 PM No No No!!!
I am on a payment plan for the Pig for 6-8 months...I am thinking the MerCruiser will be next winter's project.
Jason M 02-14-2002, 02:34 PM Originally posted by wngrog
No No No!!!
I am on a payment plan for the Pig for 6-8 months...I am thinking the MerCruiser will be next winter's project.
I was kidding anyway... I do not know anyone that could get that engine installed and fully tweaked with the time we have till moab. Although you will have to come on out here or I will make it out there to see it when you are done!!
wngrog 02-14-2002, 02:39 PM Originally posted by Jason M
I was kidding anyway... I do not know anyone that could get that engine installed and fully tweaked with the time we have till moab. Although you will have to come on out here or I will make it out there to see it when you are done!!
Actually by the time you strip off all the "Boat" crap you will have a plain ole' small block Chevy with Closed Loop Ram jet fuel injection.
All it needs is 12v and fuel. It is as easy as it comes.
I have a line on one now, but I am going to have to pass since I bought the Pig, however my "connection" can find me another in a few months.
I will keep all posted :)
Jason M 02-14-2002, 02:45 PM Just getting a neat mental picture of you only being able to drive kate next to rivers with a long pickup tube for cooling :D
Kinda the reverse of that Mega Junkyard wars episode where the american idiots didn't bother to consider using the lake water for cooling...
Sweet...
:smokin:
Tankota 02-14-2002, 03:20 PM This is somewhat close so here goes...
Land Cruiser/Dana 44 Hybrid Front Axle
I made it for my cruiser but it ended up in Sixguns cruiser.
1. THE 59 7/8” INCH WIDE VERSION:
(3 3/8” inches wider than my cruiser frontend which has toy pickup brakes.)
I chopped the ball off the end of the cruiser housing but left the necked down area where the axle seal rides.
I then chopped off the dana 44 housing ends with about 1-1.5 inches of the 2 3/4 inch tube (total of about 2 inches of tube). I had my friend machine out the inside of the short pieces of Dana 44 tubes so they would fit over the necked down portion of the cruiser housing end where the seal rides (2.5” ID).
Align it, weld it, then gusset the ends top and bottom.
Since you leave the Toyota seals in the original location, you can measure for axle length using the seals in the housing and the seal surface on the stock cruiser axles for reference points.
This one happens to be able to use a dodge dana 44 short side axle shaft (17.25”).
Also, make sleeves ¾” long .2” wall thickness (ID = 1.350” OD = 1.75”) with three set screws in the middle (six along the edges would work better for alignment of the seal on the axle shaft).
Center these on the axle shafts at the u-joint end of the axle. This is what the 2.5” OD x 1.75” ID seals will ride on.
You also use the stock cruiser seal. However, this cruiser seal is made for a 1.3” axle shaft and the D44 axle shaft is 1.260” where that stock cruiser seal will ride on it.
The other two seals will be put into the machined Dana 44 tube end. The first one will be put in frontwards and the second backwards. They are both double lipped seals. The combination of three seals should keep the axle shafts from leaking. Also the removable seal sleeves for the axles will be useful if an axle shaft breaks, the sleeve can easily be moved to the new axle shaft.
NOTE: the dana/spicer axle shafts are not round, they are egg shaped and neck down slightly where the axle seals (on this hybrid) ride. This translates to more work to perfectly center the seal sleeve on the axle shaft.
I didn't try to mess with the difficult task of centering the seals on the inside edge of the pumpkin...that would have been a nightmare and i don't have the tools to do that like All Pro did with their mini-truck/D60 hybrid.
Jason M 02-14-2002, 03:39 PM Thanks Tankota. That is exactly what I was looking for.
Good info!!
You don't happen to have any cool pics of the conversion do ya???
Tankota 02-14-2002, 09:12 PM e-mail me and I'll send a couple of them to you. They aren't very good though...hopefully a digital camera will fix that problem soon:D
Sixgun 02-14-2002, 11:53 PM btw being the recipient of the hybrid and doing testing and evaluation on it I can say Tankota is right on the money...I've spanked this axle trying to get it to leak (mostly cus Tank said he would build me a d44 if this one leaked) and have not been able to get it to spew yet....not even a drop. I'm gettin a set of 36X14.50X15 TSL SSR's this weekend so we really be able to see whats up :D ( or Tank will this void my "warranty" :D :D )
Another option for the sleeve would be to use the 3 set screws to center the sleeve then "tack" weld the sleeve to the axle so it won't slip. Another route would be to go with custom Cro-mo shafts I've heard that they are not egg shaped and might provide a truer surface to mount the sleeve, but they are spendy. At any rate the ability to seal dirt and water out is just as important as being able to seal the 90W in.
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