Figured I'd get one goin since I got posts scattered all over for my project :grinpimp:

No it isn't a Scout two but my son is Scout #1 so this must be Scout #2 ;)

1963 International Harverster Scout 80

This won't be an overnight project but it won't be a 15 year one either.

http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/gallery/albums/80before/DSC08284.sized.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery/Scout80

Some interesting stuff..

- the body width is the exact same as my toyota - 66"
- length is approximately a foot shorter, actually as much as two depending on how I build the bumpers and my truck was shortened A LOT - when I took off the bed
- It is a 63, not too interesting till ya hear my jeep was a 53. Our bug is a 73, my truck is an 83, and my ZJ is a... 93 ;)

original specs
0 to 60 mph in 20.1 sec
Standing quarter mile in 21.7mph @ 62mph
Top speed 78.3

This is a field test done on a 1961 scout in 1961 152ci 4 cyl 3spd manual, 6.50*15 tiers and 4.27 diff ratio


Here is the quick run down of what I plan to do with it..

Engine/Cooling/Exhaust/Fuel System - HO 5.0 w/Northern aluminum radiator and spal electric fan, modified HO headers, mustang in-tank fuel pump in the toy EFI tank Engine has Saginaw steering pump, 180 amp 3G alternator, BBK air intake kit, FlowKooler hi-flow water pump, stainless rad hoses, Competition Cams Timing set, ARP bolts and studs, etc..
Drivetrain/Clutch - C6 auto and ?? tranny
Suspension - front: wagoneer 44044 springs and 9012's, rear: wagonner springs and 5012's
Axles/Brakes - Front HP HD 44 w/6 lug outers and arb, Rear disk (with ebrake calipers) 35 spline moser shafted HD D60 w?arb and 4.88 gears in both.
Interior - stock dash! Rear fold n tumble seat and original front low back seats..
Steering - hi-steer with GM stuff and inside the frame rail sag box.
Wheels/Tires - 15x10" mags with 37" MTR's.


I pulled the rear axle from my "donor" rig last night and slid it under the scout. Hoping to get the rest of the drivetrain under it this weekend, I'll post pics!

Here is the tires but they don't quite fit.. yet..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/monstervalves/DSC08966.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/monstervalves/DSC08969.sized.jpg

Here is the 35 spline moser shafted disk rear 60, gotta fab up mounts etc this weekend
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/D60rear.sized.jpg

Picture shiny 5.0 here..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/beforefiveoh.sized.jpg

not sure what color I am going to paint it yet but I figure I'll do the fabbin/cuttin/welding first.

Here is the "trailer" which was a donor rig that I got the low back seats, etc from.


http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/old-blue/trailer.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/old-blue/trailer.sized.jpg Dammit! I hate you. I've been saving one of my scout tubs for that exact same thing, I just don't have to room to do it right now.

I'd like to go with a pintle but there is a nice A frame style complete trailer setup at the local trailer store for a whoppin $20 so I will do that for now just to get it going. I want to modify that top to keep it on there to, if I can find another full top for the rig..

trying to squeeze an hour in every night but sometimes moving large parts by yourself take a a while :rolleyes:

Got the trailer out of the back yard (wife was about to disown me) and got the rear of the scout off of jack stands. My weekend goal is to drop in the engine, tranny, transfer case, and front axle. Nothing will be really "mounted" but I hope to get it in place so I can start fabbing hangers and mounts etc.

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/DSC09067.sized.jpg

I need to go buy some hangers and perches, stopped by S&H here in town and all I can say is R I P O F F

I will never go back there, they were OVER twice the price of even 4wheel parts! I like to help the little guy but that's plain nuts..

Brandon,
You can fab up some perches using 1/4" 2x4" box or get them all from Parts Mike:

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/spring_hanger.jpg (http://www.partsmikeparts.com/spring_hanger.htm)

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/spring_pads.jpg (http://www.partsmikeparts.com/spring_pads.htm)

Click on Pix for links. :grinpimp:

are you goin to paint anything before putting it in? just wondering, thought it would be easy to do while its out and would look better when in, just personal preference

wes

I was, then I figured if I painted it then I cut and welded to make things fit I'd have to paint it again anyway so the plan is to mock it all up, remove the stuff and strip it down, paint and put it back together.

Mike, those are the YJ hangers straight from the jeep dealer - I have used them in past projects, and I'll probably use them again.

Glad to see that Scout finally get some attention. Been at least 7 years that I can remember. Think you'll have it done in time for the Tulare show?(not sure if you plan on attending).

Jeff
________
The Cliff Condominiums Pattaya (http://pattayaluxurycondos.com)

Wes: lol, my preference too. I've seen some pics on here of guys working on trucks that look like they just came out of the 'sippi hole. I cant work like that. (not you brandon, keep up the good work man!)

Jeff: When is the tulare show?

I can definetely remember it being in my old shop up in Auburn back in 97' when Hal had brought it over. Thats why its nice to see it finally get the attention it deserves.

Buckshot - Tulare show is April 15-17.
________
YourBettina (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/cam/YourBettina/)

this is my truck now, and my latest paint job. Mix em together and the scout will be better :)

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/engine/2005_25_jan_102.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/oscar/box_018.sized.jpg

Still can't decide what color but I'm thinking one of the old school colors like the light green or metallic blue - or the new mustang blue. It's gonna stand out one way or another :)

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/Scout80/1961_international_pg01.jpg
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/Scout80/1963_international_pg01.jpg
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/Scout80/1961_international_pg02.jpg

Is that a Toyota with a 5.0?

I have a Toyota with a blown 22re and would love to do that.

How is it power wise and how labor/money intensive was the swap?

you can PM if you want to avoid a hijack.

Is that a Toyota with a 5.0?

I have a Toyota with a blown 22re and would love to do that.

How is it power wise and how labor/money intensive was the swap?

you can PM if you want to avoid a hijack.


Power wise it's silly, I can tap it in third gear and get sideways with a spool and 37's. I love the power, I could never drive a 4 banger again.. Labor - well depends on how far you take it. I did all the axles etc at the same time. Little jobs turn big..

Money wise it wasn't that bad because I did a lot of trading, bought a car with the motor and parted it out etc..

If ya got any specifics after reading that link let me know..

well I didn't exactly get too far :rolleyes:

42 year old bolts can be stubborn.. All I did was get the front clip/fenders off. Spent some time on the "donor vehicle" undoing all the wires/vacuum etc and unbolting stuff to get it ready to pull but never pulled it.

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/DSC09089.sized.jpg

haven't been able to touch the thing due to work/family and the need for a pay raise (studying to get my engineering license). I take the test in two weeks then I get to play. Attempted to drop the motor in for a test fit real quick (hun, gotta take out the trash) but I gotta readjust the lift to get it a bit higher. Rolled the front HD HP 44 under and rear Disk 35 spline D60 under the rear but need to do mounts etc for the suspension and move the perches on the axles still. Should be more progress soon..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/4_05_031.sized.jpg

Brandon, It does look like you have a project there. :) Is that a NON I-H engine going in there? :D

Brandon, It does look like you have a project there. :) Is that a NON I-H engine going in there? :D


I got an idea from a magazine not too long ago - I picked up a pair of IH valve covers and I am going to get some Steel ford valve covers, cut out the "international" and weld it into the ford valve covers. I'll remove the Ford tag on the upper intake and get something with an IH on it in there so someone that was clueless would think it is a new Multiport Injected Scout engine ;)

It's a project, but this time other than the paint and some misc. hangers etc I got all the parts :)

I do plan on swapping out the spool and lock right for arb's though..

Yea, that valve cover trick I'm positive will get some of them. :D An example is my rig. You would be surprised how many people see my engine and then ask me what size "IH" engine it is. :shaking: I am sure it will be a great runner when you get it done.

well this is slow going as you can tell ;)

finally got the last door and the last fender off. Only panel left (got the dash, pedals, etc etc out) is the tailgate. I got one hinge off but the other isn't budging like every other bolt on this thing so I'll probably have to drill them out. Looks Like I'll be doing paint before engine, just hope I don't have to cut/weld much after she's purty - picture this on my scout :cool:

http://popularhotrodding.com/features/0411phr_ford_15_z.jpg

new Mach 1 azure blue

Hey Brandon, how did the PE exam go for ya?

Civil, mechanical, electrical, for which one did you sit?

civil PE, 4th time over 5 years :(

I'm a transportation engineer with caltrans so I took the transportation part which is probably a dumb thing to do, so many possibilities and a wide range of questions. I felt I did pretty good but I have learned not to get my hopes too high..

Are you an SE? I think your link is intranet or something - no worky..

Thanks. The link changed. I fixed it now.

I'm a CE with emphasis in structures, but am finishing my graduate degree in structural engineering and structural mechanics at UC Davis right now.

Tech content: Nice Scout.

well I got some work done today, still taking it apart but gettin there. More bolts are being removed with a grinder than a socket!

Check out this scary wiring. Obviously shorted in the past, used MASKING TAPE to connect wire that looks like it is part of an extension cord (in home) that was taken apart for makeshift wire - BOOOOTAAAY!

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/DSC09482.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/DSC09483.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/DSC09484.sized.jpg

cab is pretty much gutted, and nearly every single bolt is gone - gotta remove the tanks and start cleanin and preppin fo PAINT!

SO..

what's the best way to paint a frame? I need to weld up my mounts first then I'll pull the body and do the frame up right

This is gonna be fun - notice the broken off bolts..
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80_bodywork/DSC09489.jpg

Gettin there.. hmm what to do with the interior.. choices choices..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80_bodywork/DSC09494.jpg

still dirty but less crap
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80_bodywork/DSC09495.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80_bodywork/DSC09496.jpg

How Purdy do you want the frame?

POR is a good option.

I gotta laugh at the bolts.
Your Scout is identical to all the other 80s out there....


For the hinge bolts, take the fenders off, cut out the little tabs that hold the metal plates that the bolts attach to.
Fab some new tabs & either tap them or weld some bolts to them.

I also have had great results with POR. But do it exactly like the instructions say. Its for rusty metal. I know a couple guys that have used the stuff on new or sandblasted stuff. They figured if it works so well on red it will work beter on silver. WRONG.
Yank the body off the frame. Use the Metal Prep. Then roll it out in the rain for a week. I would also recomend using their top coat, even on the frame.

I love the 80 and can't wait to see it done. Back when I was still building Scouts instead of Rovers I was never able to find a 80/800 that wasn't totally rusted out (Virginia). I am jealous of the condition of the one you found.
Good luck with it

Looks like a good start..... I will have to plan a south bound trip to sac and see it on the trail when it's all done. I have a few buddys I could meet up with......maybe you could show me a trail or two??? Good Luck Josh

Looks like a good start..... I will have to plan a south bound trip to sac and see it on the trail when it's all done. I have a few buddys I could meet up with......maybe you could show me a trail or two??? Good Luck Josh


definately, and you can show me how to drive a scout ;)

Lots of good trails around - and I can't wait to hit em!

well tonight was my SECOND failed attempt to fit the motor in - it's tighter than the yota!!

Gotta pull it back out and remove the exhaust manifolds, possibly the power steering pump and try again..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/2005_may_004.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/2005_may_008.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/2005_may_009.sized.jpg

If it were me, I'd cut out the old radiator mounts as well as the crossmember.

Fab a new crossmember further forward.

I know exactly squat about 80s or 800s, but it looks like a great start to a fun project. Good luck with your build, and it's nice to see another Scout with a Ford powerplant ;)

If it were me, I'd cut out the old radiator mounts as well as the crossmember.

Fab a new crossmember further forward.

Ditto...

That is what BEN W did on my new rig...you have the bay width, just those silly sheetmetal core supports in the way.

You will want to make a new core support anyway so that you will have more choices for radiators..

was just trying to keep the fabbin to a minimal but looks like I got no other choice

Cutting the cross member and moving it forward is just about standard procedure is those rigs.

Cutting the cross member and moving it forward is just about standard procedure is those rigs.

Yup! Weld in the new crossmember first before cutting out the old one to keep the frame square.
________
HotGirlCeleste (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/cam/HotGirlCeleste/)

I wish I could see more of what this guy did, doesn't look cut..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/norcalmoto/2189.jpg

I was trying to wait on moving that crossmember till I had the steering all ready cause I just know I'm gonna move it twice..

If it were me, I'd cut out the old radiator mounts as well as the crossmember.

Fab a new crossmember further forward.


I know I've seen pics of yours before but I forget where - can ya post one so I can see how you worked in the steering box? I'm using the same one..

Here are pix of the PS with the radiator mounted in 3 locations.


http://beer.thisdysfunctional.org/kids/Scout-Work/Steering_Joint.sized.jpg

http://beer.thisdysfunctional.org/kids/Scout-Work/Radiator_Support1.gif

http://beer.thisdysfunctional.org/kids/Scout-Work/Radiator_Support2.gif

http://beer.thisdysfunctional.org/kids/Scout-Work/Aluminum_Radiator_Moun_ted.gif

doesn't look like you moved the support? I just dropped it in, had to remove all the front accessories and one manifold - I dunno, sure is tight! No way my headers are gonna work, gonna have to at the very least go back to some small cast manifolds.

Engine swap was 3/4 way done when I got it.

It was a major PIA getting the radiator & fan the way I liked it.
The mech fan sat too low & had less than 1/4" clearance with the crossmember (it was above it) :eek:

I was just saying, it will be less work in the end if you cut it off.

Do you have access to a bender?
Joel (Scout Dude) ben a really cool upside down U out of tube to mount his radiator & re-enforce the inner fenders.

looking at your steering box I don't see how I could move that support.. Guess the box could go on top of it?

The box could go closer to the engine/where the crossmember was removed.

Why not send the frame to be galvanized?

Never rust and looks cool :flipoff2:

Why not send the frame to be galvanized?

Never rust and looks cool :flipoff2:

I'm just mocking it all up, she's gonna be purty someday :grinpimp:

Yup! Weld in the new crossmember first before cutting out the old one to keep the frame square.


X2 Good Luck

I guess I should call it project slow poke or maybe baby steps..

anyway, got the steel for the new front crossmember and cut off the old bumper (4 rusted solid bolts). I cut down the sides of the old rad support but not all the way through - I'll wait till the new crossmember is in for that.

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/2005_may_002.sized.jpg

Got a deal on the steal, caught em when they were closing so instead of $30 it was $20 cash :)

I'll use part of the excess to make part of the motor mounts (the part that extends out from the frame).

new front crossmember - this project is gonna win some record for slooooow pace! I just need to clean up the cuts so they are flush (cut off wheel and portaband aren't the most precise things)

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/DSC09549.sized.jpg

my lil helper (#2)
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/DSC09550.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/DSC09551.sized.jpg

debating what to do for the front perch, I dig the BTF buckets but $150 is pretty pricey when you can pick up jeep ones for $15 ea, still..

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/oscomm/catalog/images/spring_buckets.jpg

They drop 4" which is nice, I wouldn't have to fab up a hoaky drop bracket.

rear suspension hangers - I need to get some shackle end hangers (or make em, but I don't exactly have much time these days!)

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/2005_may_013.sized.jpg

That kicks ass... keep up the good work, I hope mine will turn out good like yours!

I bought the buckets - cost nearly as much as both scouts combined LOL

These are next for purchases

https://catalog.foothilloffroad.com/images/FO1935.gif

https://catalog.foothilloffroad.com/images/FO1791.gif

I have fabricated pretty much everything for my last two rigs but because of time and the addition of two kids this one is getting more stuff bought and if I gotta buy it I'm gettin the good chit ;)

these are going on the rear

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/jj/APJJ_008.jpg

Front axle shackle is gonna go through the frame

these are going on the rear

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/jj/APJJ_008.jpg

Front axle shackle is gonna go through the frame


Those are pretty sweet. Where did ya get them at?
________
The View Condo (http://pattayaluxurycondos.com)

they are the currie johnny joints - those are actually from all pro. I used em on my yota and they worked great - got rid of the squeeks and didn't wear out bushings on every trip.

http://rcrc4x4.com/mambo/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=54&Itemid=61

I made an attempt to put in the motor without modifying the frame etc, but that just isn't happenin' so I chopped some stuff out today - core support and front crossmember/motor mounts. All the while my 8 month old daughter was snoozing about 15 feet away in her Jeep stroller LOL

I was wishing I had a torch of some kind today! BUT, I was glad I had a portaband ;)

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/2005_june19_019.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80engine_electrical/2005_june19_018.sized.jpg

Keep up the good work. I'm watching it. Doing the math this week to see if I can afford (and have the time) to part out my old dodge, and use most of the parts in a scout 80.

Keep up the good work. I'm watching it. Doing the math this week to see if I can afford (and have the time) to part out my old dodge, and use most of the parts in a scout 80.


I need to keep a running cost total for the project, probably about $500 so far but $200 of that is still in the mail on its way to me.

Helps having parts from a previous project!

UPS man is my friend..



http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/2005_june20_001.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/2005_june20_002.sized.jpg

I paid the extra $10 for the iron cross on that thing to match the one that is supposed to be in the front bucket (this pic from their site)

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/oscomm/catalog/images/spring_buckets.jpg

But no cross when I got it :( They are beef but I was pretty bummed my bling bling was missing its bling bling!

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2005_june20_004.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2005_june20_005.sized.jpg

Bummer it works out the thing is gonna be sticking out in front of the frame - I'll have to make a tube gusset deal to blend it in or something

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2005_june20_003.sized.jpg

Those are pretty sweet. Where did ya get them at?

Rubicon express also sells JJs if the curry ones aren't ideal for you.

I'm hoping to do this with a second pair of JJs fitted into the frame side spring eyelet on my wagoneer. I have a pivot system up front now and a slider out back that does the same thing (keep the spring level under articulation so it only flexes up and down, no twisting) but it's a rather bulky system that's costing me clearance. the JJs make it a clean, high-clearance installation....

Rubicon express also sells JJs if the curry ones aren't ideal for you.

I'm hoping to do this with a second pair of JJs fitted into the frame side spring eyelet on my wagoneer. I have a pivot system up front now and a slider out back that does the same thing (keep the spring level under articulation so it only flexes up and down, no twisting) but it's a rather bulky system that's costing me clearance. the JJs make it a clean, high-clearance installation....


I would have bought theirs but they didn't have any in stock when I wanted mine. No prob with the ones I got though..

I need to keep a running cost total for the project, probably about $500 so far but $200 of that is still in the mail on its way to me.

Helps having parts from a previous project!

yes you do!!

If I go through with this (the deal on the scout I wanted to buy looks like It may fall through) I hope to spend under 2k.

But thats because I want to reseal my motor (rebuilt in 96, hasnt been run since 98), rebuild my 727 (about 100), buy a 203/205 adapter (450), a 205 (200), get the drivelines re-tubed (about 300), then I have to do highsteer on my 10 bolt, get new wheels for my mtr's, etc.

I think it will end up closer to 4k.

Find any nice scouts for sale for cheap lately, preferabally that run and I could do the con in as is?

no but I know of a 61' for $300 with a half cab top - it's stock though so to do the ruby it would need some tlc. Good starting price though for a straight body etc.

Find any nice scouts for sale for cheap lately, preferabally that run and I could do the con in as is?

Dude...that is a very loaded question....ha ha ha...

Cheap, and running, and driveable over the namesake of this website...

cheap and running dont always go hand in hand. I'm with HOS - thats a loaded question. I been building my free scout for almost 3 years now and it still is not driveable. If you want a scout - pay a little more and get one with some capability in it.
OR
go cheap and work on it for years - then play when your getting too old to enjoy it. :rolleyes:

lookin' good

what is your pinion angle going to be like with only a 4" drop on your front perch?

what is your pinion angle going to be like with only a 4" drop on your front perch?


It will be just a tad below pointing right at the tcase :D

It's a custom built 3/4 ton HP D44

Wifes taking the fam for the day tomorrow so stay tuned for some progress hopefully :grinpimp:

couldn't get a good sideview of where the tire will be but I'm guessing it's 2-3" forward (I forgot to set a benchmark dimension for the center of the old spring, oops)

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/DSC09684.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/DSC09687.sized.jpg

Rear suspension - I had a block between the frame but ditched it, and shortened the shackles. I want to keep it as low as possible this time..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/DSC09685.sized.jpg

Front of rear suspension - just tacked but tacked pretty good - this is pretty much set, about 2" back of stock for center pin with wagoneer rear leaf springs flipped front to back for departure angle.

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/DSC09686.sized.jpg

lookin' great man, keep the pics comming...

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/DSC09686.sized.jpg

I dig those spring hangers for some reason.

not much to add, squeezed in a little time after work today but it's gotta be about 150 degrees here! Gotta go get some new blades for the bandsaw but in the meantime I used the cutoff wheel to remove the shock towers and bump stop brackets. Also the old spring hangers. I'll be back at it tomorrow..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2005_july_12_005.sized.jpg

For some reason my welder is running like crap :(

Seems like there is no juice and I got it cranked. Not sure why - might have to bring her in :(

What kind of welder is it? Is it binding in the spool? I had a problem and it ended up being my liner. Runs like a champ now.

The scout looks good. At least you have the dedication to get as much done as possible when youhave time. I am cutious about those rear shackle hangers. I wonder if they will force you all over the road, or if you shuold be fine that way.

dIma

What kind of welder is it? Is it binding in the spool? I had a problem and it ended up being my liner. Runs like a champ now.

The scout looks good. At least you have the dedication to get as much done as possible when youhave time. I am cutious about those rear shackle hangers. I wonder if they will force you all over the road, or if you shuold be fine that way.

dIma


I used them on my truck with much longer shackles as a DD - no effects at all honestly. I've heard bad things about putting them in front though. Did some more work tonight, unfortunatly with all the heat and the family gone I think I hit the :beer: too much and didn't get as much done as planned. Oh well, got tomorrow and a couple more days ;)

Just cut off the rest of the bump stops and spring hangers tonight, that's about it. Did some runnig around and got some stuff I needed. Tried to pull the spool out but that SOB is in there tight! I dunno, gotta pry it out with something. Shafts are slid out and the carrier bolts and whatever ya call those things are off, it should just slip out.. uh huh...

Dude - how's the cruiser???

Anyway, taking friday off and will be doing more tomorrow, hope to have some progress but it always take ME 10x longer than planned..


oh yea, picked up a new liner and tips for my hobart 135 (poor mans Miller), but didn't get to put it in and test it. I need a bigger welder, but I have done a lot with this one, can't complain..

I really like those hanger. Any new news?

yea, nothing that shows but I've been grinding away - few pics..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/DSC09779.sized.jpg

this is about how far the front axle went forward

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2005_july_12_002.sized.jpg

more grinding

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/DSC09778.sized.jpg

I need a bigger grinding wheel..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/DSC09780.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/DSC09782.sized.jpg

my jig for finding where to put the shackle, worked pretty good..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/DSC09771.sized.jpg

Ground down everythign off of the front HD HP 44 axle

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/DSC09776.sized.jpg

and rear HD 60..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/DSC09777.sized.jpg

picked up another "donor" rig, mostly for the straight much less rusty than the one I have top, and a few small things.

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/cornhusker/husker_005.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/cornhusker/husker_004.sized.jpg

next comes the chop in half and off to the yard..

I have both axles stripped completely and I have the ring gears on the new ARB's that are gonna go in the diffs, just need to clear my garage back out and get the gears setup. Got a dial type in-lb torque wrench in the mail on its way and I picked up a digital caliper for making measuring shims easier.

WOW looks great it's nice to see big $$$ go into the old 80/800's :grinpimp:
This thing is going to be badass.........

WOW looks great it's nice to see big $$$ go into the old 80/800's :grinpimp:
This thing is going to be badass.........


This is my third complete custom frame up rig so this time I'm gonna take my time and do it right :grinpimp:

Plus, I'm goin a little old school - This baby is gonna take a wax shine and be something I can appreciate wether I am on the trail or parked at work :smokin:

I don't think I have done an update in a looong time.

I also got DOM 2"x.135 wall tubing for the shackles in the frame, but every 3 months my projects get put on hold for 3 months practically untill I pass my engineering test.

Anyway, once I clear this rig outa my garage I can get back to the one on my sideyard. Next step finish diffs and then mount engine/tranny. Then rip it all back apart and make it bling bling with paint etc :grinpimp:

This is my third complete custom frame up rig so this time I'm gonna take my time and do it right :grinpimp:

Plus, I'm goin a little old school - This baby is gonna take a wax shine and be something I can appreciate wether I am on the trail or parked at work :smokin:

I don't think I have done an update in a looong time.

I also got DOM 2"x.135 wall tubing for the shackles in the frame, but every 3 months my projects get put on hold for 3 months practically untill I pass my engineering test.

Anyway, once I clear this rig outa my garage I can get back to the one on my sideyard. Next step finish diffs and then mount engine/tranny. Then rip it all back apart and make it bling bling with paint etc :grinpimp:


A month later and I still haven't finished the diffs :shaking:

I did pick up my tranny finally - C6 auto. The wife is taking the kids outa town next weekend so I can work on my junk. If anyone knows anything about setting up gears/arb's pizza n beer is on me :grinpimp:

I'm hoping to finish the diffs and make it a rolling chassis again so I can put it in my garage.. hoping that is..

Keep up the good work Brandon..looks great!

Wow, awesome work, keep us updated with the pics!

trying to squeeze an hour in every night but sometimes moving large parts by yourself take a a while :rolleyes:

Got the trailer out of the back yard (wife was about to disown me) and got the rear of the scout off of jack stands. My weekend goal is to drop in the engine, tranny, transfer case, and front axle. Nothing will be really "mounted" but I hope to get it in place so I can start fabbing hangers and mounts etc.

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/DSC09067.sized.jpg

I need to go buy some hangers and perches, stopped by S&H here in town and all I can say is R I P O F F

I will never go back there, they were OVER twice the price of even 4wheel parts! I like to help the little guy but that's plain nuts..


I just had to quote this, nearly a year ago and I still haven't done what I wanted to get done that weekend :(

Project sure has changed though :grinpimp:

I just had to quote this, nearly a year ago and I still haven't done what I wanted to get done that weekend :(

Project sure has changed though :grinpimp:


Quit beating yourself up and get to work on that Scout!!! :flipoff2:

Got some friends trying to sell me a running 75' for $500..

;)

Hope to fumble through setting up the gears this weekend!

If you don't want it, PM me the details! You know that a 75 would give you more family room! :flipoff2:

If you don't want it, PM me the details! You know that a 75 would give you more family room! :flipoff2:


We are small people ;) I just dig the old style body more but if this one runs and I can drive it from Monterey home I'll take it. It won't be my builder - just a driver.

Will do - I've been trying to get a pic from them, my wife will be visiting in the area this weekend so I'll have her check it out. All I know is it is a '75 and they used to drive it all the time. Definately not the type to do any modifications to it so I am sure it is fully stock.

We are small people ;) I just dig the old style body more but if this one runs and I can drive it from Monterey home I'll take it. It won't be my builder - just a driver.

Will do - I've been trying to get a pic from them, my wife will be visiting in the area this weekend so I'll have her check it out. All I know is it is a '75 and they used to drive it all the time. Definately not the type to do any modifications to it so I am sure it is fully stock.


Let's see, a stock or mildly built pre-smog SII as a DD, plus a built Scout 80/800 for a wheeler. Sounds familiar. :grinpimp:

I like the looks (and departure angles) of the older style more myself. Being able to fold/tumble the rear seat and carry TWO D44s AND a 14 Bolt FF sure is cool however! Gotta have both!


Out of curiosity, it's not orange with a white top is it? :D

I'll have a fold and tumble seat from a jeep in my 63', but those axle just might have to hang on the tailgate a bit ;)

Are the SII's pretty much all V8's? I don't think this one is a diesel but I haven't gotten in touch with the owners to see what it really is. I'll post a pic when I get one, no idea what color it is..

I'll have a fold and tumble seat from a jeep in my 63', but those axle just might have to hang on the tailgate a bit ;)

Are the SII's pretty much all V8's? I don't think this one is a diesel but I haven't gotten in touch with the owners to see what it really is. I'll post a pic when I get one, no idea what color it is..

For '75 it could have an N/A Nissan I6 Diesel (rare), 196 I4 (also kinda rare in SIIs), a 304A V8, or a 2V 345A V8. Used four barrel manifolds are available. V8s are by far the most common. Tranny would be a T15 three speed,T19 four speed (close or wide ratio), or a 727TF juice box. The TC could be a cable shifted aluminum IH built POS single speed TC143, or the thankfully much more common D20. If there's a TC stick on the floor then it should have a D20.

I'll give you a single stick D20 for it if you buy the rig (and it has a TC143). The axles will be D44s front and rear with front discs. It'll have a 6200Lbs GVWR as IH upped the capacity in '75 to fit into the less restrictive emissions and safety requirements. :D

The orange/white color question was just me being a smartass...

Look at my avatar. :flipoff2:

Didn't a few come with the inline 258?

Didn't a few come with the inline 258?

Not in '75-'80 Scout IIs...

Regarding SIIs, they were used '71-'74. The 232 was used until '72 or so when the 258 replaced it. Most of the RHD postal Scout IIs appear to have used these engines with autos (B/W autos and 727TFs). The 196 (the IC version) became the 'economy' engine for the SIIs from '75 on.

Funny thing is, I've got TWO of those Scouts as parts donors. One's a '73 and the other's a '74. Both have T18 four speeds. I've never seen a running Scout II with this combo. The '73 had a tossed rod (auxiliary access hole) ;) and the '74 had a blown head gasket...

The bell housing from these can be used to swap an AMC V8 into a Scout/Scout II. I'm selling one of mine to a Scouter in Az. I'm gonna keep the other bell in case I ever decide to swap a 401 into a SII...

still slowly acquiring parts, scored this today :)

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80_bodywork/quicksilver2.sized.jpg

still slowly acquiring parts
I know exactly how you feel :(

Bling, Bling...

I know you built your toy, but I recommend you read BB build up (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407953) which I'm sure you already have.

I've been thinking more about his cage vs my cage, & now your cage.
Have the toy, your used to space issues, but I think you could get by with the front pillar in th cab.
I'd strongly recommend that when you do the middle pillars (B?), that they attach either to the bed behind the bulkhead.
Either on the floor, or above where the tanks used to be (or are).

I'm not a fan of "exo" cages, esp since most of the time my rig will be topless. I got rid of my halfcab top too - that was the point of getting a scout, not to have a truck..

So.. I have my full top and then there will be no top. I definately need a cage fo sure, but it's gonna be a full family cage aka safari style. I haven't read that update in a while - gonna go cruise it now..

As far as drivetrain goes all I need is a tcase (dreamin.. but hopin atlas 4sp..), flexplate, torque converter, and then I'll need my old drivelines modified but otherwise I am good.

Interior wise I need the cage, I plan on using the stock steering wheel/dash/seats and I have a fold n tumble rear seat so basically I got it all, just need to clean it all up.

Suspension wise I have all I need, just need to get er done.

Wiring and electrical wise I have what I need for the engine but I do need to get a full replacement wiring harness for the body.

Cooling wise I have the alluminum radiator allready, just need a good tranny cooler since there isn't one build into the rad.

Steering wise I have the sag "jeep style" box to mount to my frame, I'm going to need the drag link redone length wise but can just sleeve it temporarily.

My axles are in pieces but I have everything from the new gears and arbs to the new arb compressor etc. I need to put in a timesert for the 44 since the bearing cap threads are fubar but that's not THAT big of a deal.

Bottom line, I need to get to work..

What Tranny are you going with again?
I know you sold off your Toy stuff...

I'd go doubler.... 203/205 or 203/D300...

There is also the new Stak 2 speed box for $2k.

What Tranny are you going with again?
I know you sold off your Toy stuff...

I'd go doubler.... 203/205 or 203/D300...

There is also the new Stak 2 speed box for $2k.

He's running a SB C6 juicebox. A certain Eccentric Binderhead around here has already tried to convince Brandon to run a Ford NP203 range box in front of a Jeep D300... :flipoff2:

I haven't ruled a doubler out and really the tcase is the last thing on my list, it will be otherwise done before that. I have a tcase now that came with my C6 that will allow me to work out all the other bugs in 2wd till I can sell my first born for a replacement tcase ;)

I am making one of those home made benders right now so I will attempt to build my own cage most likely. As soon as I get over the "setting up gears n arb's" hurdle the project should start getting momentum again..

...till I can sell my first born for a replacement tcase ;)


So you'd sell your first Scout to buy parts for your second??? :flipoff2:

When it comes time to build the cage, talk to Joel Kelsey (Scout Dude) for ideas. I bought mine from him. It was bent, but just tack welded.

He's also built 2 buggies with his bender.

Well.......:flipoff2:

went to autorama, then hung 8 doors at my sister n laws house (what a pain), then replaced the seals in my father n laws ZJ tcase - that was my weekend :(

Come on down and help me setup my gears!! :)

I've been thinking more about his cage vs my cage, & now your cage.
.


What's wrong with your cage?:confused: :confused:

What's wrong with your cage?:confused: :confused:

Absolutely Nothing.
I love it actually.....

However, If I was to do it again, I'd move the middle pillar to the bed, so that I'd get more reclining room in the seats...

I'd strongly recommend that when you do the middle pillars (B?), that they attach either to the bed behind the bulkhead.
Either on the floor, or above where the tanks used to be (or are).

Just ordered a few more goodies. I hunted all over to see if I could find someone that had used one of the "cradle" style engine mounts to see how they worked and if they cleared the 5.0 mustang oil pan but couldn't find anyone so we'll see how it works..

http://www.tperformance.com/product_pics/FM126W.jpg

Brandon, do you have all the tools necessary to do the gear setups? At the very least, you need a bearing separator, some kind of press, and a dial indicator, preferably with a magnetic base. I've done several succesful gear setups (with the correct tools), and a few more half-way decent ones as best I could (lacking all the tools at the time) that have worked fine, but I assume you want to do it right if you've got new gears. If you have questions, I'd be happy to try to help; I can be reached here (PM) or better yet by email:
seshepard _at_ gmail.commieWEBPAGECRAWLINGSPAMBOTBALLBUSTERS

My in-laws are going to be in town all weekend so I'll be busy with family time with the wife and what not, which means I probably won't have time to come over this weekend (family always comes first for me) but check back with me if you want. I'd still like to come see your project sometime, either way.
-sean

I do have all the stuff, but I may STILL just break down and have (the other) Sean do it..

I like to do all my own stuff but for the gears I'd atleast want someone that has done it before helping. All new gears AND arb's..

If I decide to bring it in to RCD I'll be doing that monday, that step has been holding me up for a long time now!

Absolutely Nothing.
I love it actually.....

However, If I was to do it again, I'd move the middle pillar to the bed, so that I'd get more reclining room in the seats...

Really? That never occured to me since the bulkhead was in the way anyways. My next cage may have the b pillars in the bed anyways though since I am designing it around my 1/2 top...but the bulkhead will still prevent me from reclining the seats.

went to autorama, then hung 8 doors at my sister n laws house (what a pain), then replaced the seals in my father n laws ZJ tcase - that was my weekend :(

Come on down and help me setup my gears!! :)

hmm , I have only set up one set of gears solo (they are still in the road 4 years later though) You should have gearman do it:D

hmm , I have only set up one set of gears solo (they are still in the road 4 years later though) You should have gearman do it:D


Guess where my axles are right now :grinpimp:

I dropped them off Monday, supposed to be done by tomorrow but I haven't checked in with him yet to see how it's going. I bought all the tools and did my homework but got sick of tripping over my axles in my garage. It's costing me money I don't have but.. it's gonna get done!

althought not a big update I am thrilled to make some progress. I got my axles back together (well actually just the rear and the front is nearly together) and although I had the rear hangers located I hadn't welded them. They are only tacked to make sure everything works but.. The ass end is on solid ground :grinpimp:


It seems TALL :eek:

I am happy with the shackle angle, tires stick out quite a but but oh well, they are pretty far from full width at 62" WMS to WMS with 3.5" BS wheels.

I hope to drill the front spring frame holes (for the shackles) and get the front hung by this next weekend, then on to dropping in the five oh..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/2006_mar6_073.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/2006_mar6_066.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80axles_drivetrain/2006_mar6_068.sized.jpg

last night I drilled 12 holes through 1/2" plate for the front shackles (3 holes each cause I am not sure how long I need them to be). I also cycled the suspension up front one more time to set the location of the shackle hanger hole which I hope to drill tonight.

drill.. meet frame :)
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar8_004.sized.jpg

the new shackles . You can also see the jig I used for cycling the suspension to decide where to put the hole in the frame. With the spring totally flat I have 1/2" between the spring and the frame using the shortest holes in those shackle plates - should be good :)
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar8_005.sized.jpg

and the before picture of my shackle hanger. I also got some plate to plate the frame, dunno if I need it though. Also not sure if I want the tube to extend out past the frame or be flush with it..
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar8_006.sized.jpg

got tube?
http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar8_scout_001.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar8_scout_003.sized.jpg

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar8_scout_004.sized.jpg

gotta weld it in place and cut out the inside..

apparently I disrupted someones home when I drilled one of the holes, the frame was STUFFED!

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar12_002.sized.jpg

I hadn't welded in quite some time so I was worried about the boogers I was gonna lay down but it turned out all right :)

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar12_004.sized.jpg

I welded in one single piece of DOM tubing and then cut it down, I think I need to grind it closer to the frame though, shackles are pretty wide..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar12_011.sized.jpg

BTW it was 2"x.134 DOM that fit perfectly with the YJ bushings.

lookin cool!, member #6 damn you've been around.

lookin cool!, member #6 damn you've been around.

You calling Brandon an E-whore?:laughing:

Bump for Brandon:flipoff2:

You calling Brandon an E-whore?:laughing:




and proud of it! :flipoff2: :beer:

Got the front end completely back together, repacked the wheel bearings and put on new hubs. The bottom ball joint on one side is bad :shaking: but I'll deal with that later. Haven't been able to tinker lately - yard work and other honey do's :p

Hope to make some progress this weekend - atleast have it sitting on all 4's and maybe even drop in the engine/work on mounting the steering box.

Why did you put the tube all the way across between the rails, is this for a bushing or a swaybar?

Why did you put the tube all the way across between the rails, is this for a bushing or a swaybar?


Just to make sure they lined up perfectly - easier to set it up since I don't have any sort of jig. I cut the middle part out after it was all welded.

Last night I drilled out the 3 holes on ea 1/2" thick shackle plate from 9/16" to 3/4" so I don't have to run the spacers in the bushings.

that pic (also above) is the INSIDE of the frame, so it was allready cut..

http://rcrc4x4.com/gallery/albums/scout80ss/2006_mar12_011.sized.jpg


EDIT: Hmm ok maybe that isn't the inside, I can't really tell but anyway - I cut out the inside section ;)

Why did you put the tube all the way across between the rails, is this for a bushing or a swaybar?
He cut it off after he welded it. At least that is the way it looks to me.

well I dropped the front end under it tonight, my gawd it is tall :(

These are well seasoned rancho 44044's and actually stock wagoneer rear springs! I don't have fangs or a body lift and my shackle goes THROUGH the frame not under it like most I have seen. No motor etc yet so I will keep going but I wish it was a FOOT lower :shaking: The bottom of that front crossmember part of the frame is right at 3 feet!

Those springs look tall.
Are you sure thats what they are?

Do you have access to some stock (non-sagged) YJ springs?

I've got 2.5" BDS YJ springs & they sit much flatter.

You could try & find some SOA specific springs (eye wrap is reversed).

yea, bought em new a few seasons back and they have quite a few ruby/fordyce trips on em.

tough to see the arch in the pic but they really did settle a lot. Once the motor etc is in there I am sure it will drop.. I hope..

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/v/4wdtrails/Rubicon/rub_june_04/rubicon_june_04_032.jpg.html

I cant tell, do you have the U-bolts sinched down tight and all that? It will lower itself down some you tighten them down good. Are they 35's or 37's? If it doesnt squat with the engine in take a leaf out, thats what I did with the rear on mine. Played with the leaves till it was just right.

I didn't get the u-bolts on yet, and they are 37's. I like the height of yours - that is more of what I was goin for! Just curious - what does the height to the bottom of the front of your frame measure out to?

Brandon...

I am with Mocha here...Those springs look megaaaa tall. I will try to post some pics for you this weekend of my with some waaaayyyy flatter springs.

The springs in your photo look like some 4"ers or more due to the arch...

2" lower and some wealthy fender trimming and you will look good.

Hey Brandon, It looks like a lot of arch to me as well, but remember you have NO weight on them at all. The u-bolts aren't tight and there is hardly any sheet metal on that thing let alone a motor and trans. It is not going to drop a foot but I bet it will drop at least 4-5 inches when the truck is complete. That whole tub and fenders may only weigh 5 or 6 hundred pounds. Just a suggestion but I would get it a lot closer to cmplete before I started pulling out springs and cutting sheet metal. I actually think it looks sweet but I like tall Scouts. Either way keep up the good work, I really enjoy seeing it come to life. :smokin:

I'm liking the stance, it is wider than I thought but I like that :)

depending on weather I hope to find the time this weekend to drop in the engine :)

Looks good, I'd expect it to drop a bunch when you put the engine and all the little stuff back on (rad, heater, etc).

Looks good, I'd expect it to drop a bunch when you put the engine and all the little stuff back on (rad, heater, etc).
HEY, Quit coveting other peoples rigs and get YOUR rig done! :D

;) ~ Jesse says the one shaft shipped yesterday, and the other is comin' Monday. Who knows, I may be able to drive it into the garage.

well I snuck out and dropped the engine in tonight - sucks not having any free time to tinker :(

Anyway, the cherry picker wouldn't go any further but I think the engine should - just not sure how far. I put on some truck manifolds and I think they are gonna work pretty good!

Not so sure about the cradle mount though..

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/16546-1/2006_april9_+013.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/16555-1/2006_april9_+006.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/16558-1/2006_april9_+007.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/16564-1/2006_april9_+010.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/16561-1/2006_april9_+009.jpg

I really wish there was SOMEONE here with a SBF to compare mounting locations! As it sits the ford mounts are right where the old IH ones were...

from this pic (it's big..)

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/16547-1/2006_april9_+014.jpg

you can see the cradle mount BELOW the frame - but I think that is about where it should be.. I think..

I can see this locating thing as another stumbling block. Once I get the location set things should move again..

I really wish there was SOMEONE here with a SBF to compare mounting locations! As it sits the ford mounts are right where the old IH ones were...

Center it left to right.

Push it as far back as you can with out major firewall work. Its nice if you can get it far enough back that you can still fit a winch behind the grill. From the pics it looks like you could move it back alot more with a little bit of work on the fire wall.

Put it as low as you can, but keep it just high enough that you still have a flat belly under the trans and t-case.

Thats all there is to it. Just make sure the axle isn't going to hit anything at full compression.

Center it left to right.

Push it as far back as you can with out major firewall work. Its nice if you can get it far enough back that you can still fit a winch behind the grill. From the pics it looks like you could move it back alot more with a little bit of work on the fire wall.

Put it as low as you can, but keep it just high enough that you still have a flat belly under the trans and t-case.

Thats all there is to it. Just make sure the axle isn't going to hit anything at full compression.


think it is important to center left to right? The hole is definately off center and I was going to put it about 2" toward the pass side..

Its not critical. Lots of people put engines off center in various swaps. 2" towards the pass side won't make too much of a difference.

ordering a cage from D&C, even though I have started making my own bender time is pretty much nonexistent for me lately so this will get something in there :)

http://dandcextreme.com/images/product_images/dnc/dnc202.jpg

Current hold up is the tcase, I'd really like the STAK or 4sp Atlas but just don't have the $$$ right now. The other cheap option to get me going is a 205 which I am having a hard time hunting down..

Are you keeping the saddle tanks?

If not, I'd see if you can get the B pillar feet to meet on the upper portion of the bed. You can then tie it to the frame where the tanks used to be.

This is the only thing I don't like about Damian's cages... (no offense Damian).
http://www.dandcextreme.com/images/product_images/dnc/dnc202b.jpg

Currently I am planning on keeping them, somewhere sells new "non spill" fill tubes (was it Fleckster??). I don't know how well those work but that is my current plan. I did notice that bend and didn't really know why it was done that way - now IC..

Yep. BCB.

http://www.backcountrybinders.com/products.htm

Both of mine were rusty... One full of powder & other 1/2 full of bad gas, the other 1/2 rusty.
I think replacement/poly tanks run like $200-$250 each.:barf:

http://members.aol.com/suprscout/polytanks.htm

Mine are actually amazingly clean, but the filler necks are shot. No more saddles on yours? I wouldn't mind the storage area without the tanks..


hmm that looks like just some adapter - not the filler itself which I need..

Bling bling:

http://www.binderbooks.com/lotsoparts.htm

Search for: 267955C91

Mine mounts to the top like MOCHAMIKE mentions...I have a fuel cell...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=248094&stc=1&d=1149289714

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=248095&stc=1&d=1149289714

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=248096&stc=1&d=1149289714

Bling bling:

http://www.binderbooks.com/lotsoparts.htm

Search for: 267955C91


ouch!

not much of an update..

I decided to just pick up a cage from Damian after he posted this

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5570341&postcount=461

Unfortunately he didn't keep the measurements on that job but I'm hoping Gary can hook him up with something close so I can get a main hoop that doesn't interfere.

As much as I want a bling bling atlas or something like that budget dictates otherwise. I picked up a Ford 203 that I have split the reduction box off of and I will be picking up a dana 300 soon, then I just gotta decide which adapter kit to use and what shifters.

My engine is still sitting on the hoist, kinda wanted to wait till I got the tcase in place to weld the mounts so hopefully that will come together soon. I have the rad, steering box, etc so there is a SMALL chance I could be on that sept run!

....so there is a SMALL chance I could be on that sept run!
that would be fun, the sept run will be one of the last in my scout

...the sept run will be one of the last in my scoutSpill it!!!

I decided to just pick up a cage from Damian after he posted this

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5570341&postcount=461

Unfortunately he didn't keep the measurements on that job but I'm hoping Gary can hook him up with something close so I can get a main hoop that doesn't interfere.

Brandon,

If you need me to take measurements of that cage, by all means just ask! It's no problem at all. :beer:

-Gary

Brandon,

If you need me to take measurements of that cage, by all means just ask! It's no problem at all. :beer:

-Gary


ok, can I have some measurements? ;)

Actually I would guess all I really need is the main hoop with is a simple U shape? Damian, you gotsa be reading this - what other dimensions would ya need? I understand that I'll have to fudge the ends of the bars but I can live with that.

Spill it!!!
now is not the time, nor the place.gonna build a FJ-40, keep it a wheeler capable of driving on the road if need be

Gary, email....uh, no wait ~ PM me and I'll tel you the measurements I need.

D

I finally crammed the five oh all the way into its hole :)

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/temp/Scout80/2006_july4_cannon_026s.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/temp/Scout80/2006_july4_cannon_025s.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/temp/Scout80/2006_july4_cannon_020s.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/temp/Scout80/2006_july4_cannon_013s.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/temp/Scout80/2006_july4_cannon_012s.jpg

as you can see it is offset but ALMOST centered in the engine tunnel (1/2" away from center)

Nice work!:smokin:

x2, do you have a MAF sensor on that engine? I've heard it's easier to tweak the eng performance if it has a MAF on it.

yea, but I ran it in my yota and the only tweakin I did was a phenolic spacer and a different air filter and the thing would get sideways in second gear! The scout is a different beast and the auto will rob some power but I have been very happy with it!

Looking good...You gonna re-shape any of that firewall? Headers?

I had some funky modified headers on my yota, I like how clean the truck manifolds look and really - they add more torque (maybe less HP) so they should actually do the job better..

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/temp/Scout80/1s.jpg

At this point it looks like the only firewall work is on the pass side but I haven't attached the exhaust yet so I am not positive. The linkage on the tranny is real close back there too..

nice build!

Ok, I am ready to order my 203/300 adapter (came to the realization I can't afford an atlas :( ) - just can't decide which! I want it to be adjustable for clocking and although the Jeds and I think the ATOR also are adjustable (by welding) the only one that can be adjusted again and again and.. is the NorthwestFab and becuse I, like many others, am building a freak of nature I like the idea of being to change it..

Looks like

Northwest - $699
ATOR - $549
Jeds - $500 plus $100 or core

I know I will have two shifters in two locations because the 203 ford has the linkage on the opposite side as the 300 but oh well. I am hoping I can use a stock shifter for the 203 and a stock shifter for the 300 and then later upgrade, looking for the KISS theory for now..

Any help much appreciated!!



(I thought maybe using alluminum paint on the 203 would make it lighter but it didn't work :grinpimp: )
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/15670-1/2006_july4_cannon_+022.jpg

have you considered a 231 insted of the 203 it will give you more reduction, less wieght and will cost you less $ on the adapter. That's the way i've gone. Oh yea you can clock it how you want and change it down the road too. Just food for thought. Here's the link to the 231 adapter http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=451754

by the way great progress, keep up the great work

to the best of my knowledge there is no 31 spline input so that.. is not an option

he does offer 31 spline shafts, call him if this is something that might work for you. Good luck

I have the WMS (now sold by ATOR) doubler ~ freakin works great.

Yesterday we ran Carnage Canyon with some of the UA guys. Rusty STOMPED that trail. Worked flawlessly. Brad Kellogg has video that he'll send me on monday when he gets back from Moab.

he does offer 31 spline shafts, call him if this is something that might work for you. Good luck


I looked through threw and never saw any mention of 31 spline but I guess I need to call.

I have the WMS (now sold by ATOR) doubler ~ freakin works great.

Yesterday we ran Carnage Canyon with some of the UA guys. Rusty STOMPED that trail. Worked flawlessly. Brad Kellogg has video that he'll send me on monday when he gets back from Moab.


So did you weld it or did it come clocked? Looks like I can get it straight from Sumner for $549 as well. I wish you could mess with clocking like the northwest one but it is $150 cheaper for something that does the same thing..

I imagine you got some pics in your buildup, I seem to recall you getting some custom linkage or something or other? Off to look now..

Atlas, Atlas.....

:p

I wish, I can't afford the doubler but it looks like the northwestfab one is it, I should be ordering on the first (payday). In reality it gives me more options than an atlas anyway..

http://www.northwestfab.com/images/completekit.JPG

Mine didn't need the clocking ring. It had two sets of holes so I could put it where I do or higher. Yes, my system is on its lowest setting.

Not a big update again but I did order the northwest kit and I am still waiting for the rest of my cage from Snoopy..

That is a pretty looking adapter, I understand it is multipiece for clocking, but I am confused as to why it needs to be 3 pieces vs 2. Hopefully you will get the cage before the adapter.

I think it is so if you decide to go to a 205 instead of a 300 you just change one plate and the coupler. That middle piece is a "universal" part, atleast that is my guess..

allrighty, minor update time..

I picked up the flywheel that I needed, and I got my NWF adapter and my roll cage (with feet, thanks Snoopy).

The adapter was a no brainer for the most part, no instructions but other than missing a few bolts it seems straight forward.

I was told I might have a MINOR clearance issue. Well tonight I had it mocked up on my table - when is MINOR 3 inches?? (Don't answer that)

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/17891-1/2006_august29_+013.jpg

allrighty, minor update time..

I picked up the flywheel that I needed, and I got my NWF adapter and my roll cage (with feet, thanks Snoopy).

The adapter was a no brainer for the most part, no instructions but other than missing a few bolts it seems straight forward.

I was told I might have a MINOR clearance issue. Well tonight I had it mocked up on my table - when is MINOR 3 inches?? (Don't answer that)


Wow what a bummer for sure. Do they have a photo of a 203 attached to a D300 with that adapter?

Found this click here (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/scrambler/tn_Part3Pic2Dana300_JPG.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/productreviews/scrambler/&h=150&w=200&sz=9&hl=en&start=5&tbnid=-lOZueOo9D53fM:&tbnh=78&tbnw=104&prev=/images%3Fq%3Ddana%2B300%2Bshifter%26svnum%3D10%26h l%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DGGLG,GGLG:2006-16,GGLG:en)

You can see how they cut the shift linkage and used a twin stick setup

"Thankfully, that ear isn't used by the Currie Twin Stick shifter."

hmm, I have a WAAAAY more to cut then him though but if I can use a bolt on product that would be cool. I was thinking on how to make a twin stick and kinda got it figured it out but it is one thing to figure it out and another to find the time to do it..

I might have room from the looks of it..

http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/scrambler//Part3Pic3Hookedup.JPG

I don't have room for that big ol nut but I am sure I could fine a hex style low clearance bolt and go from the other side or something.. OT: Damn dude, clean the pine needles out of your rig for the picture LOL!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/productreviews/scrambler//Part3Pic4done.JPG

allrighty, minor update time..

I picked up the flywheel that I needed, and I got my NWF adapter and my roll cage (with feet, thanks Snoopy).

The adapter was a no brainer for the most part, no instructions but other than missing a few bolts it seems straight forward.

I was told I might have a MINOR clearance issue. Well tonight I had it mocked up on my table - when is MINOR 3 inches?? (Don't answer that)

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/17891-1/2006_august29_+013.jpg


That's it. The whole setup is complete crap. I'll swing by to take that hunk of junk outa your sight!!! :flipoff2:

yea, I don't think so :p

Looks like that curry setup will work great (or a copy of it)

It was worth a try...


BTW- Since you're planning on runnin' a twin stick setup (three including the 203), did you remove the interlock pills from the D300? If not, better do it now...

It was worth a try...


BTW- Since you're planning on runnin' a twin stick setup (three including the 203), did you remove the interlock pills from the D300? If not, better do it now...


I thought that was only with the 205??

and D18/20s.

It was worth a try...


BTW- Since you're planning on runnin' a twin stick setup (three including the 203), did you remove the interlock pills from the D300? If not, better do it now...


This Mod
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=248365&d=1149518022

so do I need to do anything to the 300 or ??

EDIT

found this..

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/#FWDHi

At this point I don't think I will mess with it, all it stops me from doing is FWD hi range..

so do I need to do anything to the 300 or ??

EDIT

found this..

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/dana300/#FWDHi

At this point I don't think I will mess with it, all it stops me from doing is FWD hi range..


I don't have experience with D300s. I do know that it's an 'improved' D20. The twin-stick D20 in my Scout 800 wouldn't shift into FWD-low with the pills in place. The choices available were RWD-low (left stick forward), N (duh), 4WD-Low (both sticks forward), RWD-Hi (left stick back), and 4WD-Hi (both sticks back). It wouldn't let me move the right stick (front axle) forward or backwards when the left stick(rear axle) was in the middle (N) possition. The interlocks only allowed the F stick to be moved from neutral to whatever possition the R stick was already in. If the F stick was in neutral I could move the R stick whichever way I chose. Remember that these movements are for the sticks, not the shift rods which of course move in the opposite direction. :cool2:

I agree that FWD-Hi isn't all that usefull for most non-comp wheeling. However, FWD-Low is usefull at times, especialy if you have a Detroit in the rear. With the pills out, I can shift both axles independantly. Of course, there's a danger involved as stated in the 4X4Wire article! :eek:

I haven't twin-sticked a D20 that wasn't already twin-stick from the factory. Maybe the interlock notches on single-stick D20 shift rods (and therefore D300 shift rods) are diferent than those on twin-stick D20 shift rods. It would make sense as the rod notches affect the 'sequencing' of the shift rods in a single-stick setup.

Great...now I've gotta pull the shifter assembly off of a spare single-stick D20 and start playing with the shift rods to see if I can get it in FWD-low with the pills still in there! :flipoff2:

Before you bolt the case in the rig you may wanna see if you can shift it into FWD-low (if you care for that option). If you don't need to engage the front axle without engaging the rear (you do have ARBs instead of Detroits afterall) then just say "screw it" and bolt the sucker up! :grinpimp:

I agree that FWD-Hi isn't all that usefull for most non-comp wheeling.

I run a Dana20 that is twin sticked...I have been using the shit out of FRONT HI lately for doing digs around tight corners, root notches, lifting up and around tight trees...

With the auto I prefer FRONT HI over FRONT LO because of spin-up...less torque loading on the front joints...and on the front drive shaft.

Just my .02cents...As either way...being twin sticked is better than not being.

Well gee on flat ground I could fit about a 2 3/4" driveline (tranny interference) but then if it flexes.. :shaking:

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18446-1/2006_sept06_+006.jpg

This would work much better with a drivers side drop tcase and a drivers side diff.. hmmmm

Wonder if I should mess with swapping tubes (not exactly fun)



http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18443-2/2006_sept06_+017.jpg

Well gee on flat ground I could fit about a 2 3/4" driveline (tranny interference) but then if it flexes.. :shaking:

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18446-1/2006_sept06_+006.jpg

This would work much better with a drivers side drop tcase and a drivers side diff.. hmmmm

Wonder if I should mess with swapping tubes (not exactly fun)



http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18443-2/2006_sept06_+017.jpg

I see a modified tranny crossmember, small diameter/thick wall driveshaft, and a modified tranny pan in your future. Bumpstops also look to be your friend. You could mod the crossmember so that it jogs up towards the top of the PS frame rail at the tranny mounting pad. That'd give you a few more inches of clearance. I can't remember what lives inside that area of the tranny pan. Hopefully there's some dead space...

Would it realy be that much better with the pumpkin on the driver's side? From the pics it doesn't look much different on that side to me, other than your engine's offset a little to the passenger side. OTOH, that offset would help a bit, and you can get the housing farther up under the DS spring, bringing the driveshaft yoke closer to the wheel (as Ford intended it of course)...

that crossmember was temporary so that is not a problem, and yea - if I can modify the pan life will be much better. I need to pull it to see..

Your right on with the engine offset helping and all..

If I could just find a Ford HP D60.. ;)

I could clock the case differently but I don't see that helping. As it is I have to cut that big plate on the 203 (yoke won't rotate, it interferes)

Start over :p

I pulled the pan - plenty o clearance (who needs the pan, right?). I'll get my drivelines to Jess next weekend and hopefully pick them back up the following weekend :cool:

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18461-1/2006_sept08_+005.jpg

Looking good.

Brandon-
Looks like you got the doubler all worked out then. I am watching your build closely, I have a '65 Scout 80 sitting on jackstands in the garage, no big build planned, yet...I am just working on just getting it driveable for now, and gather parts for later.

yea, I need to clearance the plate to fit the way it is clocked but it is going to work out well. I didn't want to have to guess on clocking, this way I just picked what I wanted and bolted it together..

dont know if your still having problems with that cross member fitting but you should take a look at ORD's website they had to take a stock crossmember and cut and weld some more pieces so it could go up and over the front output shaft... fyi

dont know if your still having problems with that cross member fitting but you should take a look at ORD's website they had to take a stock crossmember and cut and weld some more pieces so it could go up and over the front output shaft... fyi

I feel like I have posted it a million times - that crossmember was just for mockup!! :grinpimp: :grinpimp: :flipoff2:

I do need to make a permanent one but that was just something that slid along the top of the frame so the drivetrain was "hung"

I'm not worrked about one but I'll see what they did. I've made quite a few different ones in different rigs though :cool2:

yea, I need to clearance the plate to fit the way it is clocked but it is going to work out well. I didn't want to have to guess on clocking, this way I just picked what I wanted and bolted it together..

I would have worked on the clocking instead of the pan fabricating.:grinpimp:

I would have worked on the clocking instead of the pan fabricating.:grinpimp:

well the shaft crosses under the pan so clocking it higher would only make it interfere more..

Besides, it's still higher than the 203 so clocking it up higher really wouldn't gain much

I know you want ground clearance... but I was thinking clocking down a hair.

You should think about a beefier crossmember. I really think that one may be a little under built.

I'd hate to have to tow you out on account of chinsey engineering.





:p

You should think about a beefier crossmember. I really think that one may be a little under built.

I'd hate to have to tow you out on account of chinsey engineering.





:p


u funny :flipoff2: :flipoff2:


BTW top shot :cool:

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18467-1/2006_sept09_+001.jpg

driveline time, you guys running 300's only running 1310 joints in your driveline or is there a flange that will slip in to use a 1350 etc?

driveline time, you guys running 300's only running 1310 joints in your driveline or is there a flange that will slip in to use a 1350 etc?

You of all people should know how badass toyota u-joints are :rolleyes: :flipoff2: Let me look around for the # of the guys that make the toyota flange for a Dana300 and dana 44. 1350 joints are much weaker than stock ''toyo'' joints for toyota trust me........:smokin:


*EDIT* 1-909-629-9002

interesting, that thought never occurred to me even though that is what my drivelines have right now since I ran a toy case to the same axles in my last rig..

Your kidding me :shaking: :p

I owe you some :beer: or something, you just saved me a ton o $$$ ;)

Maybe you can help me.....


How long are stock short bed toy drivelines flange to flange?

Me and all my buddies run 1310s on our rigs buggies or not.

Me and all my buddies run 1310s on our rigs buggies or not.

:cool2:






































:nuke: :flipoff2:

Your right, they don't last.
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/ejbounce.MOV

He's been beating that jeep like that for years, never broke a 1310 CV shaft in front or back. Frankly, I think if they are setup right, and the angles are good, they'll be good.

Maybe you can help me.....


How long are stock short bed toy drivelines flange to flange?


I don't have a clue since I haven't had "stock" length drivelines in well over 10 years but I posted it in a place that should get the answer asap. I can tell you there are a lot of differences though - different bolt patterns and sizes, amount of angle in the CV, etc..

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=27246.new#new

Well thanks I have seen like 10 different drivelines for toyota :(

you don't want 79-83 as they have the smaller bolts, you don't want 89 if you looking at the front shaft that thing has like no drop to it but all of the CV's can be clearanced.

:beer: :beer:

not much new from last weekend, had in-laws in town but I did sneak out to mock up some stuff. Where can I get a new nut for the pitman arm? I lost mine somewhere..

steering and rad, close but fits..

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18485-1/IMG_3436.JPG

from the top, aint purty.. yet. In order for that heater ducting to clear I would have to drop the engine about 3". I'll most likely just cut the duct

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18479-1/IMG_3438.JPG

I ordered a tap to make the drag link, it is supposed to be here today.

got the tap for my drag link but it turns out the guy that made it used some nice thick stuff and used a lathe so I can't just tap it, it needs to be clearanced first and I don't think me attempting to do that with a wobbly drill press is gonna work too well. I'll have to pick up some new tubing that is the "tappable" ID.

I stuffed the engine in as tight as I could when I made the mounts but I am pretty sure I want to drop it a few inches now so hopefully I can get that done this weekend.

I clearanced my adapter for my driveline but I think I am going to clock it up some more, I couldn't really tell if that would help with my temporary crossmember right in front of the driveline flange before
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18518-2/IMG_3525.JPG

My quick fab crossmember before welding the ends on in the pic. I used allen head bolts so on one side of the tube there is a 3/4" hole for the allen head bolt to slip through.
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18515-2/IMG_3524.JPG

I have my drivelines but Jesse at High Angle put the wrong end on one of them (miscommunication), The rear 60 I have has a larger 1350 flange and the driveshaft is 1310 and a lot smaller spline/slip yoke. I still need to get that taken care of, I wish I was closer to him and could just bring my shaft in..

So.. not a lot new - just hope to get it out next summer..

I clearanced my adapter for my driveline but I think I am going to clock it up some more, I couldn't really tell if that would help with my temporary crossmember right in front of the driveline flange before
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18518-2/IMG_3525.JPG


Fawk...did you get hungry and gnaw that adapter plate? Swiss Army knife? Leatherman? Or the big guy "Jaws" from Moonraker been hanging around your shop?:flipoff2:
I know you're not done...nothing a grinder can't smooth out. Damn, actually I'm just jealous 'cause I don't even have a blingy NWF doubler to hack up and I haven't even really started on my 80...just taking lots of notes from yours.

What did you end up with as a solution for the D300 shifter interference w/ the adapter and 203? I see something there, just not sure what it is. Are you fabbing your own?

well I had to cut off one ear but it's gonna work fine. The currie style twin stick will bolt right up with no mods required. Yes, that is flat nasty and what's the point having multiple clocking locations if they don't clear the output flange of the tcase?? Kinda lame but oh well..

How do you cut Alluminum?? Only thing I could think of was drill a million holes till it basically falls off. Yes I need to clean it up but that is going to be fun too. The aluminum is just going to fill up my carbide burr in my die grinder or anything else..

well I had to cut off one ear but it's gonna work fine. The currie style twin stick will bolt right up with no mods required. Yes, that is flat nasty and what's the point having multiple clocking locations if they don't clear the output flange of the tcase?? Kinda lame but oh well..

How do you cut Alluminum?? Only thing I could think of was drill a million holes till it basically falls off. Yes I need to clean it up but that is going to be fun too. The aluminum is just going to fill up my carbide burr in my die grinder or anything else..
You need the correct carbide burr. Burrs for steel have many fine teeth, burrs for aluminum have a lot fewer teeth and the teeth are huge compared to a burr for steel. Ordinary carbide router bits work very well on aluminum, but you'd have to take the adapter off to use a router on it.

good to know..

http://www.amazon.com/STYLE-Shank-Carbide-Aluminum-SA-1AL/dp/B0007OTBUO

I'm sure my local welding shop should have em, I'll stop on by..

Be forewarned.... the ensueing shower of aluminum flakes coming off that fucker will go everywhere and get into everything. :laughing:

You need the correct carbide burr. Burrs for steel have many fine teeth, burrs for aluminum have a lot fewer teeth and the teeth are huge compared to a burr for steel. Ordinary carbide router bits work very well on aluminum, but you'd have to take the adapter off to use a router on it.
X2 on the correct carbide burr...if it does get gummed up with aluminum chunks, just use a stiff wire brush to brush chunks out of the flutes and you are back in business. Some light lube (a little kerosene, tapping fluid, or even candle wax) will help keep the chips from gumming up the cutter.

A 1/4" shank router bit doesn't care if it is in a 1/4" router collet or a 1/4" die grinder, but I wouldn't use a router bit unless it's a last resort since they usually only have 2 large carbide inserts and are more likely to chip..I'd use a proper burr made for a die grinder.

You could also cut with a jig saw, sawzall, etc

Looks awesome, keep up the work..

I went to barnes and praxair and neither one had a aluminum bit, guess I gotta order it

How do you cut Alluminum?? Only thing I could think of was drill a million holes till it basically falls off. Yes I need to clean it up but that is going to be fun too. The aluminum is just going to fill up my carbide burr in my die grinder or anything else..

Just My $.02 but carbide and Aluminum do not mix well. Carbide is too brittle and aluminum too gummy. A regular HSS bur will last longer because the teeth will not chip as bad when they get gummed up. Ill second the light oil for cutting fluid. Tap magic makes a special aluminum tapping fluid and it works pretty good too. I would just use a metal blade on a hand held jig saw if you have one. Be patient and it will cut just fine. Guess it all boils down to are you going to take it off to cut it or try to cut it where it is at? If your drill press is sturdy enough, you could clamp the adapter down to it and weld a lathe tool bit to a shank at the radius you want and use it like a fly cutter......

well as you can see it is allready cut ;)

I just wanted to clean it up..

I wonder if I have the slowest build here?

Anyway, just to keep it from slipping away some very small updates. That rear xmember installed (welds are not completed)
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18575-1/2006_nov9_+014.jpg

the tcases do pop up into the tunnel but I was planning on something thicker than the old rubber in the body mounts so that will help
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18581-1/2006_nov9_+016.jpg

I lowered the engine over 2", a bit tighter axle clearance but a lot better clearance otherwise.

Before
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18482-2/IMG_3437.JPG
After
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18569-1/2006_nov9_+017.jpg

from below, you can't see the driveline that is hitting the tranny pan, I was looking for a thick aftermarket STEEL one so it wouldn't warp as bad when I cut it up to clearance it but couldn't find anything
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18572-1/2006_nov9_+018.jpg

BTT any updates?

the holidays turned it into santa's sleigh..

I have been digging it back out, I got a new yoke for the D60 to make it 1350 and I got new yokes for the D300 to ditch the straps and I have all new drivelines from HAD. Really, it was put on hold for the holidays but I finish digging all the junk out of it tomorrow and then I should be able to post some updates (clearincing the tranny pan for the driveline, mounting the steering box, mounting the radiator, etc etc..).

EDIT: Shew, I found it! Dug it out tonight, watch for updates soon now :)

I wonder if I have the slowest build here?


Your name isn't Damian so I'm guessing no. :shaking: :D

Nope I think Old Scout gets that title:D

ok, minor update. I need to cycle the suspension to see if this is going to be a problem or not..

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18982-1/2007_jan_14_+046.jpg

I got both driveshafts along with the new yokes bolted up and I clearanced my oil pan. I really want to drop the height on this thing but as you can see clearance is tight allready :(

These are 44044's, I want to remove them for stock springs but I'll need some serious bump stops

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18985-1/2007_jan_14_+047.jpg


what is the max angle for a 1310 style cv? Mine is sitting at 30 degrees right now..

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18970-2/2007_jan_14_+042.jpg

to get an idea of it's height here are a few shots

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18994-1/2007_jan_14_+050.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18991-1/2007_jan_14_+049.jpg

Way too much angle for a stock 1310 CV IMO. A stock 1310 CV actually has less allowable deflection than a standard 1310 u-joint. It won't last long running at that angle.

PM me if you decided to get rid of your 44044's. I'm pretty sure that's what I'm going to run up front.

I'd like to drop it a few inches and I could stretch the wheelbase another inch easily but that doesn't make THAT much of a difference - I guess I need to get back in touch with Jess at Hi-Angle to see what I should do :(

Brandon, we need some full shots of this thing... I can't wait to see it complete.

Oh, I doubt the transmission pan will be too much of a problem, the driveshaft will not move much near the t-case.

... I can't wait to see it complete.


You and me both, but I still don't see the light at the end of the tunnel. I don't know how the rest of you do this stuff with little kids. With one it wasn't bad but with two I pretty much give up..

my 2 year old wrencher..

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/18946-1/2007_jan_14_+034.jpg

Matthew earned himself the nick-name "The Great Displacer" as he'd grab tools and start walking around with them leaving them where ever he lost interest. I know exactly how you feel with the kids thing. Just keep going and it'll eventually turn up.

the biggest thing for me is to buy kits, and not try to peice part things together. Fuel Injection is a big one. Yes you can get all the parts you need at the junkyard and then buy a few little parts from AFI or whatever, but I find it too difficult to go hunt down things ~ expecially when youngsters aren't allowed in the yards. So my big thing is to order the kit ~ so I don't have to go tromping around looking for little things with little ones in tow.

It may add a few dollars to the build, but hey ~ its getting it done.

BTW ~ your little girl is darling. I'm sure she gets that from your wife, but the picture shows she definately got your "deer in the headlights" look ;)

Got any finished pics of the tranny pan surgery?

Got any finished pics of the tranny pan surgery?

Not yet because I am going to pick up some different (stock) front springs today which will lower it and I want to cycle the suspension before I finalize the pan. I may cut the other part of the pan to increase the lost space I lost too..

If you have the room, I was going to suggest making a deeper sump on the other side to make up for the lost capacity of the notch. Might as well add a drain plug while you are in there, too. Again, nice work, I am a few years behind you on mine, but seeing the problems you have with your's will hopefully make my build easier :D:

where do you get a drainplug from? I know you can get weld in bungs for exhaust, basically the same thing I guess..

Most any auto parts stores have them. Drill a hole and install the special flat headed bolt that the actual drain plug screws into. Mr Gasket, etc make them. That way you don't have to pull the pan just to drain it.
http://www.martelbrothers.com/product_image.php?imageid=107204

how about a flush mount allen head magnetic drain plug with a weld in bung? I guess that is asking too much?

not much of an update once again, baby steps here..



I reworked my shackles, nore more fangs with washers. I also moved my front spring hangers about an inch back. Not a whole lot else new..

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19014-1/2007_jan_21_+012.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19017-1/2007_jan_21_+013.jpg

The before swapping out my 44044's for stock springs measurement for tire to fender clearance was 10 3/4" and now it is 9 5/8" so it went down over an inch..

Bravo! ~ Man, that's the way those shackles should be done. At the risk of pissing people off, that's my biggest pet-peeve about going through the frame, the shackles look like butt when they have big old spacers taking up the slack. That, on the other hand, looks great and keeps the shackle legs tight to the springs and the frame. :grinpimp:

:smokin: Much mo' better!

I'm liking the super soft springs. My yota would flex like mad but still felt like I was driving a brick down the road. I got a buyer for the NP435 and the adapter to a toy case that I ran in my truck finally so I got a few bucks to buy some parts. Thinking some shocks and bump stops etc. What's the shock of choice these days, it was the BBCS's a while back but I don't even know if he is still making them..

Things are starting to come together, about time to tinker on the roll cage, fudge some exhaust and then rip it all back apart to make her perty ;)

I'm sure it will still be a while but one can hope..

Oh yea, I am gonna need to cut n turn my knuckles - not looking forward to that :(

A few pics from tonight, notice the killer caster angle..

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19098-1/2_9_07_+028.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19101-1/2_9_07_+029.jpg

your looking at "lowered perches" - I have never worked so hard to LOWER a rig! Stock springs, short shackles and chopped perches!
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19104-1/2_9_07_+030.jpg

I need to add about 25degrees or so..
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19107-1/2_9_07_+031.jpg

The other perch, I think with the wide s80 frame I won't have to sit the perch over the housing like I had to do with my truck, hoping the lowered perches will allow me to have more tie rod clearance and maybe ditch my spacers so I don't have to run bolts anymore on my arms!
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19110-1/2_9_07_+032.jpg

Steering box is very tight to the rad and steering pump, not sure if that will work on not just yet (need to mock up the steering column)
http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19113-1/2_9_07_+033.jpg

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19119-2/2_9_07_+035.jpg

Family has been sick with the flu and all kinds of other stuff, haven't had any time to tinker, hoping to get some time in this weekend.. hopin that is!

How much grinding did you have to do on those perches :p

How much grinding did you have to do on those perches :p


not much thanks to your crafty plasma work :smokin:

Gotta remove a leaf from the rear and hope it drops the rear some. You ready to fire yours up yet? :grinpimp: :grinpimp:

I have been working on the exhaust and have a little bit of wiring left, so very very soon. Maybe next week some time.

Gotta remove a leaf from the rear and hope it drops the rear some...


Before you start pulling leaves from the springs I suggest you put a few hundred pounds in the rig and see how it sets. Pile in your cage kit plus whatever you think fuel, people, a back seat, bumpers, tire carrier, tools, spare tire, spare parts, etc. will weigh. Try to distribute it like it will be when the 'real stuff' is actualy there. If it doesn't look right then pull a leaf outa each pack and weight her down again...

I can't tell for sure but it sure looks like there is an add a leaf in my set (thick arched spring on the bottom) so I'm not really stripping it's rate.. I think ;)

The back is about 3" higher than the front, and the cage etc is piled into the back right now. No doubt there will be some more weight later (people etc) but it is too high in there for sure..

Fam is still sick so I am just in here keeping the daughter entertained - no work yet..

shot from the rear with lower leaf gone


http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19130-1/2_12_07_+007.jpg


Driveline angle is MUCH better (bout 22 or so)

I have a habit of reinventing the wheel but someone has to have put a saginaw (jeep) steering box into an 80 before. Unfortunately the splines are different on the stock column even though it lines up perfectly. I kinda like that stock slip thing in there, guess I just need to chop it off and put in some other type of slip and weld on a u-joint?

http://whiteknucklemotorsports.net/gallery2/d/19657-1/2_20_07_+033.jpg

Chevy tilt column works nice...

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/PS_Mount_3.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j95/mochamike/Steering_Joint.jpg