<table align=center width=99% border=0><tr><td align=center Colspan=2><font face=arial>First off, thanks to 66CJDean for the info. His posts and pics here on POR gave me the insight needed to shave the diff.</font></td></tr><tr><td align=center Colspan=2><hr width=75%></td></tr><tr><td valign=top><font face=arial><font face=Arial>Well, I blew a front brakeline playing on Ajax and the Superlift lines I bought were defective, so I wasn't able to go on the Lost World Run.I took the brakelines back, and ordered a set of the Rubicon Express brakelines instead, since I've become displeased with Superlift.(This is the 2nd time I've bought defective parts from Superlift.)<br><br> So, since I had all this time on my hands, I decided to shave the rear diff of my project Jeep. I put the ring gear and carrier back into the diff (the diff was previously disassembled), measured twice and marked my line, leaving 3/16" to 1/4" of space under the ring gear. Using a skill saw with a metal cutting blade, I set the angle to 10 deg (which is what I'm estimating my pinion angle will be) and cut along the line.The blade didn't quite cut all the way through so I carefully used a 4.5" angle grinder to finish the job.<br><br>Using a piece of paper, a made a rubbing of the cut area so I could make a plate to match.I cut the plate out using my Metal Cutting Blade equipped Skill Saw. I lined up the plate and then stitch welded it into place.At the same time (since I had the welder out) I welded up the axle tubes so that they couldn't rotate in the diff housing.After the initial plate was welded in place, I added a lip around the back of the diff, this will add extra strength and more surface area for the Diff Cover to seal against.Then I added a 3" wide plate running from the bottom of the pinion to the back of the housing. The plate is bent slightly so that there is less surface area in contact with the rocks that hit the bottom. In the middle of adding this last plate, I ran out of gas for the MIG welder, and it was Sunday so I had to call it a day.</font></font></td><td align=center valign=top><table align=center border=0><tr><td align=center><a href='http://www.AzChatfield.net/RR/Pics/2_022616643c.jpg' target=_blank><img src="http://www.AzChatfield.net/Project/Thumb.asp?W=100&F=2_022616643c.jpg" alt="Shaved Diff" width=100><br><font face=arial size=1><b>Shaved Diff</b></font></a></td></tr><tr><td align=center><a href='http://www.AzChatfield.net/RR/Pics/2_02214154855d.jpg' target=_blank><img src="http://www.AzChatfield.net/Project/Thumb.asp?W=100&F=2_02214154855d.jpg" alt="Plate Template" width=100><br><font face=arial size=1><b>Plate Template</b></font></a></td></tr><tr><td align=center><a href='http://www.AzChatfield.net/RR/Pics/2_02214154855e.jpg' target=_blank><img src="http://www.AzChatfield.net/Project/Thumb.asp?W=100&F=2_02214154855e.jpg" alt="Cutting the Plate" width=100><br><font face=arial size=1><b>Cutting the Plate</b></font></a></td></tr><tr><td align=center><a href='http://www.AzChatfield.net/RR/Pics/2_02214154856f.jpg' target=_blank><img src="http://www.AzChatfield.net/Project/Thumb.asp?W=100&F=2_02214154856f.jpg" alt="Plate welded in Place" width=100><br><font face=arial size=1><b>Plate welded in Place</b></font></a></td></tr><tr><td align=center><a href='http://www.AzChatfield.net/RR/Pics/2_02214154856g.jpg' target=_blank><img src="http://www.AzChatfield.net/Project/Thumb.asp?W=100&F=2_02214154856g.jpg" alt="Lip Added" width=100><br><font face=arial size=1><b>Lip Added</b></font></a></td></tr></table></td></tr></table>

:flipoff2: Dam, thought I read "Shaved my muff":flipoff2: Nice diff anyway...

Glad I could help. That is why I posted the pic's.
What I would add is that I do 3 passes of weld and preheat the effected area enough to where you will see the water come out just before you start welding.

What did you do to the axle tubes? and I take it that you shaved the ring gear?:question: looks good:skull:

I'll relay some info, no personal exp. tho...Welding the tube to the housing leads to stress cracks. That is why the factory press/plugs them in...Shave looks good tho...Mike

Originally posted by 66CJdean
What I would add is that I do 3 passes of weld and preheat the effected area enough to where you will see the water come out just before you start welding.

Yea, I forgot to mention about the pre-heating. Also I'm using 3/16" plate (x2) and did a double pass with the welder. I ran out of gas on the last plate and didn't take a picture of it. I'll post a pic after I finish up this weekend. Also since I added a Lip for extra strength, the thickness of the plate will be 9/16" around the back edge, giving plenty of surface area for the cover to seal against, and adding some extra strength. I figure 3/8" is more than enough plate to protect the bottom considering the cast was only 3/16" to 1/4" thick on bottom.

Originally posted by Jeepmangled87
What did you do to the axle tubes? and I take it that you shaved the ring gear?:question: looks good:skull:

Just welded the axle tubes to the housing. AMC 20's are especially prone to twisting the tubes.

And the Ring-Gear doesn't need shaved. The ring gear sits off to one side, and on AMC20's, because they're round there is alot of diff housing below the ring gear... I just simply removed that excess amount leaving a little over 3/16" of space under the ring gear.

Originally posted by Gozuki
Welding the tube to the housing leads to stress cracks.

I've been running a welded tube AMC20 for the past 5 years with no problems. Mine current Jeep's were welded up after watching another wheeler twist his housing on the tubes.