I had to flatbed the lwb back home the other day after Elisa was hearing terrible grinding noise which I assumed was teh rear diff...luckilly it turned out to be the right rear wheel-bearings grenaded...only problem is I am unable to remove the bearing inner as it's apparently welded to the spindle from the heat?? I am now stuck out of town for a week, but will be tearing into after saturday.
my question is should I expect to have to replace the spindle as it may be heat-damaged even if I can somehow remove the bearing w/o visual damage?
I was assuming so as the axleshaft was a really tight fit back in at the point of the bearing!

waddya think?
I already tried using a BFH and chisel to remove the washer, but the bearing inner was hard enough it destroyed two cold-chisels so far...am assuming will need to use heat from a cutting torch, and possible cut it off?

now if so I gotta source a rear spindle now to be shipped there when I get home. are they the same on all coilers? or do I need a certain one for a '93-4 lwb rangie? all my manuals and such are back at home so can't even check...and I really don't trust the word of teh rover dismantlers as have been sent wrong part if I don't specify exactly...sigh!

Paul(out of town via fawking bus/train and my damn disco was leaking so much from the pan/block area she can't even drive...arrgh!..leaking onto the exhaust etc...lots smoke into cab...damn!)

Paul,

All coiler spindles are the same dimensions (except super early non-NAS ones), so whatever year you get should be fine. The only difference will be the spindle could either have a key-hole slot, or it could have the flat side for the lock washer. ABS or non-ABS, shouldn't make a difference.

I would plan on getting a new spindle, JIC, and then if you don't need it you can count your blessings. Just make sure that the spindle you get has the proper lock washer (might get one of each, to be safe). Get your Timken bearings at NAPA for el-cheapo (or if you're really desperate I can send you some).

I don't have any rear spindles unfortunately, or I would just send you one. :(

I've got one off of a '90 RR. PM'd you.

I thought I had that one from my old axle, even went and rummaged around in the garage in my PJ's just now looking for it. Forgot you ended up with it. Just send him that one...you only have one anyway, and really, one don't do you no good.

Just send him that one...you only have one anyway, and really, one don't do you no good.

I will, as long as he pays shipping and my :beer: fee.

Paul,

All coiler spindles are the same dimensions (except super early non-NAS ones), so whatever year you get should be fine. The only difference will be the spindle could either have a key-hole slot, or it could have the flat side for the lock washer. ABS or non-ABS, shouldn't make a difference.

I would plan on getting a new spindle, JIC, and then if you don't need it you can count your blessings. Just make sure that the spindle you get has the proper lock washer (might get one of each, to be safe). Get your Timken bearings at NAPA for el-cheapo (or if you're really desperate I can send you some).

I don't have any rear spindles unfortunately, or I would just send you one. :(

thanks! I immediately drove the disco(spewing oil) over to buy bearings(went to pep boyz as they were closer to where I had to be) ~$25 for the two sets needed for a wheel....for some reason I had thought 12-15 clams a set meant per wheel....go figure! I was being stupid/naive? :rolleyes:

the spindles are same as the ones on the disco(flat-spot, not keyed) was wondering as when I went to the dealer after buying bearings to get the lock-tab washer and inner bearing washer(back-ordred..go figure! but only two bucks or so total) Craig told me that there were a couple different ones?? may be the two washers he showed me were for a p-38?? funny! he mentioned the dealer doesn't do these bearing-jobs anymore on older rangies very often as it's such a pain in the butt or something??
Damn! I than figured if they farm out jobs like this I should see if I can work there! :D ......anyway...pm-ing DieLucas regarding the spindle...

Paul

run a bead of weld on the inner bearing race the heat can free it sometimes
if it frees off the spindle may be ok.

run a bead of weld on the inner bearing race the heat can free it sometimes
if it frees off the spindle may be ok.


Thanks Tony! I will try this first before trying to torch it off! couldn't hurt! should I place the bead as far out on hte inner race as possible? or ??

Paul(wish I was just there now to continue instead of being six hours away(and five? days too..)

I had this exact same thing happen about 4 years ago. Basically once I got the bearing removed I just used some sandpaper to smooth out the spindle best I could. I am still running that same spindle to this day.

I weld it right in the centre around the circumfrence mainly as I'm not much of a welder
I wound the welder(195amp) as high as poss, hammer and chisel at the ready
once welded try and drive it off before it cooled.
I've had 1 fail and 1 success out of the two I've tried.
Luckily spindles are cheap over here approx $65

I had this exact same thing happen about 4 years ago. Basically once I got the bearing removed I just used some sandpaper to smooth out the spindle best I could. I am still running that same spindle to this day.

was my plan if no damage...but as it's feeling tight on the axle??
I had planned on using a file and than couple grades of 1" emmery cloth rolls

usually works, but am worried about heat damage...after all it is the wifey's rig, not mine!

paul

Luckily spindles are cheap over here approx $65

Uh, Paul...the price has changed to reflect the demands of a global market :flipoff2: :laughing: :flipoff2:

TTYL!

Paul:
You will need a spindle from a post '91 to accomodate the ABS sensor. Earlier models will not mate to the axle housing due to the sleeve for the ABS sensor.

Use a die grinder to chop the inner race out and once you get a chunk out of it, you should be able to drive it off.

Dealers are weinies!:flipoff2: I do a bearing job at least once a month.

Peace,
PT

Paul:
You will need a spindle from a post '91 to accomodate the ABS sensor. Earlier models will not mate to the axle housing due to the sleeve for the ABS sensor.

Use a die grinder to chop the inner race out and once you get a chunk out of it, you should be able to drive it off.

Dealers are weinies!:flipoff2: I do a bearing job at least once a month.

Peace,
PT

UMMMMM!! DAMN! so if DieLucas sends me the '90 spindle we'll be able to bolt on, but it will hafe fawked up uneven abs? for me who cares, it's fawked on teh disco anyway, but this IS Elisa's rig, and she insists it being right.
what is different? just a hole for the sensor to fit? I don't have a rover to look at here remember.

wondering if i can just modify the non-abs spindle if just a hole is needed drilling? or?? do I need to get a different spindle?

oh! also remember the die grinders are locked in storage with all the other air tools, andmachine tools, rover parts, and everything else I own besides my clothing...so not handy at all..not even sure where to look when I open the storage bay doors! :( so am limited to what is in teh disco and to borrow

Paul

Paul:
You will need a spindle from a post '91 to accomodate the ABS sensor. Earlier models will not mate to the axle housing due to the sleeve for the ABS sensor.



Bullshit. This spindle has the hole for the ABS sensor, and the hubs that came off these spindles have the ABS wheels on the inside. Unless it's a different ABS sensor than the cylindrical one that presses into the spindle, or if Mike's '90 RRC wasn't a '90 after all (I can never remember).

Bullshit. This spindle has the hole for the ABS sensor, and the hubs that came off these spindles have the ABS wheels on the inside. Unless it's a different ABS sensor than the cylindrical one that presses into the spindle, or if Mike's '90 RRC wasn't a '90 after all (I can never remember).

OK, lemme restate that, it must be an ABS stub axle :flipoff2: I might have been wrong about the year.

Secondly, the exciter ring is bolted to the rotor, not the hub :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Secondly, the exciter ring is bolted to the rotor, not the hub :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

And the rotor is bolted to the hub...when you don't have an impact wrench, you treat the whole big mass as one object.

Bullshit. This spindle has the hole for the ABS sensor, and the hubs that came off these spindles have the ABS wheels on the inside. Unless it's a different ABS sensor than the cylindrical one that presses into the spindle, or if Mike's '90 RRC wasn't a '90 after all (I can never remember).

Bingo! My '90 has/had ABS. This was the first year (in the US) for ABS on Range Rovers and thus any Land Rover sold in the US to have ABS.

And the rotor is bolted to the hub...when you don't have an impact wrench, you treat the whole big mass as one object.

If you hadn't pissed me off :flipoff2: I'd share the trick for removing the rotor without an impact :D

(pendy voice on) if you ever return to my good graces, perhaps (note, perhaps!) I'll share it with you (pendy voice off)

If you hadn't pissed me off :flipoff2: I'd share the trick for removing the rotor without an impact :D
(pendy voice on) if you ever return to my good graces, perhaps (note, perhaps!) I'll share it with you (pendy voice off)


Why? Just so you could Schram me up the @ss again?
























:flipoff2: :laughing: :flipoff2:

If you hadn't pissed me off :flipoff2: I'd share the trick for removing the rotor without an impact :D

(pendy voice on) if you ever return to my good graces, perhaps (note, perhaps!) I'll share it with you (pendy voice off)

Hey!
back on topic! this is MY thread! :flipoff2:

besides who needs a impact when you have the torch? :D speaking of which I still need to borrow that sucker as mine is (yes I know you all know)in Storage with .....
anyway..my sorta brother-in-law(Wifes ex-bro-in law) who is lending me the cutting torch and whatever other tools needed said to use his trailer to carry al as I shouldn't carry tanks on side in disco ya know...my question is with the $G rear bumper on there the hitch-pin goes down and ya don't hvae a place for a safety to keep it there...are they all like that? I will be driving carefully and slowing for bumps! :eek:

...soon I really need to fabricate that locking pin assy so I can saely tow!!!

Paul

Hey!
back on topic! this is MY thread! :flipoff2:

Paul

(pendy voice on again) It's really all about me (Pendy voice off again)

As for the tanks, don't worry about transporting them in your vehicle, as long as:
1: you have the caps on the tanks
2: you stand the acetylene tank up for a period at least as long as it was on its side.
3: you restrain them so they won't become projetiles in the highly unlikely event of a crash.

The chances of your being involved in a car crash are slight, chances of being in a crash bad enough to cause failure of a compressed gas tank even slighter still.

There was this time when I had to move my lab to a new location... The gases we burned in elemental spectroscopy made my gas supplier turn white and hyper-ventilate (mostly hydrogen blends). I loaded up all of my tanks in the back of the El Camino and drove to the new site... Didn't blow up and the world is safe for lemonade-slinging girl scouts. But, I am a professional, kids, don't do this at home!

paul, you are a nutcase man............



what about the popcorn slinging boyscouts in your neighborhood?????????? :smokin: