95 f350PS w/ 9" lift 38.5" SS TSL/SX's. I got this rig back on the road just yesterday. It was sweet ran great, the rig pulled the tires with no problem with the PS and the 4.11's. Today as I was leaving work, it started no problem, at the stoplight I turned and speed up to about 35mph before the wheels started wobbling back and forth i was able to get to the side and stop, but it scared the fawk out of me. What gives. The tires were balanced and the wheels are tight on the stud, the ball joints are good as is the tie rod and drag link. The PS box is ok not loose intaernally or at the frame. Whatthe hell could it be. I drove away and it didn't do it again. Then a few hours later driving again same thing at about 30-35mph. This isn't going to cut it as this is my families ride. If this has happened before to you let me know and what you did to solve it. TIA..........Mo

Come on guys I know that there is someone that has has this happen and has fixed it, give me a heads up on this..........Mo

loose u-bolts, poor alignment, tires need rotating, track bar bushings, spring bushings, loose spring hanger bolts..........take yer pick.

My ranger started doing that last fall too. To fix it, I swapped out the axle, the steering, track arm bushings and brackets, and most important of all, it's sat in the garage on jackstands since then.. Hasn't been a problem :shaking: :D

you might have a broken tire belt

Only one thing that will cause the death wobble ---- neg or not enough caster --- there may be things that make it worse (bad tie rods, ball joints, loose bolts) but increase your caster and it will go away.

This used to happen with my old full sized Bronco with a 8 inch superlift.
It turned out that the cross frame IFS drop bracket was a little messed up. It took a long time for me to figure it out. The bolts attaching the drop bracket to the cross frame were just a little bit loose. Thus causing the bolt holes on the bracket to wear out of round - making the whole bracket loose. Now - this was very difficult to spot. I didn't actually find the problem until I took the bolts off and found the out of round hole. I then drilled them round and used larger diameter bolts - the problem was solved after 2 years of the issue happening.

Something to check - all it takes is 5 minutes to pull the bolts and look.

i gaurantee u it is caused by bad trackbar bushings

i gaurantee u it is caused by bad trackbar bushings


How can you 'gaurantee' that?? He's has a Super Duty.......front leafs :confused:

Super duty trucks have a track bar. All 1 tons with a solid front axle from about 87-up have them to eliminate bumpsteer. And since he's got a 95 like I do, then he's got a track bar.

Cody

EDIT

Things that I have noticed about death wobble.

1: Out of balance tires. Wide ones especially since the weight is further from the radial centerline of the tire.

2: Track bar/draglink parallel. If they're not, then that's asking for trouble. Not only does this cause bumpsteer but also allows your front wheels to turn slightly when hitting bumps. This transfers weight to the outside of the turn and initiates the harmonic reaction in the frame.

3: Track bar bushings. Two words: "Dodge RAM"

4: Frame stiffness/harmonics. I have experience with this one first hand. I made a set of rear axle antiwrap bars a while back. When I first installed them, I thought a little bit of preload would be a good idea. WRONG. I had death wobble before I got fifty yards from the house. Bars under tension, same story. Then I ran them slack.....no DW. I was death wobble free for about two years until I bought my 49" Iroks and loaded them into the box. The reduced suspension height in the rear put preload on my bars. I ALMOST got DW, but slowed it down in time.

I have run 35" turdbirds with 6 and 9 inches of lift on this truck. They were bad for DW...but probably due to wrong track bar/draglink angles and factory caster specs.

Then I ran 12 inches and 44" Ground Hawgs. I never had DW with this combo until I put on the antiwrap bars.

Now I'm running 49" Iroks and 18 inches of lift. I have yet to experience DW with this combo (I will tomorrow on my way to work, you watch). Although I've got about 12 deg. pos. caster now and took off the axle antiwrap bars.


Cody

I know he has a track bar, I have a 2004 SD, but as you pointed out it's to control bump steer.


I'm not buying the track bar bushings.......I was wrong once before though, I am married :flipoff2:

its caster and thats it. the panhard has dick all to do with the death shakes, thered a huge diference between a little shimmy in a corner and the death wobles..besides that the only thing the panhard does in the super duties is help a little in steering precision....there isnt enough suspension travel in them to cause bump steer on a stock truck... and besides that. in order for a panhard to be in cohoots with the drag link they must be the SAME LENGTH AND ANGLE which is not the case in the super duties, not even close.... get the caster between 6- 8 degrees and if the ball joints and tie rods are good you should be ok.......ps steering stabilizers are only a cover-up for a poorly setup/maintained front end (with exeption, of-course) this thread prooves that having only a little knowledge is worse than having none at all, with all this advice on here you end up getting your tires balaced 8 times, change your frame, panhard bushings, then a new panhard bar , maby even rotate your u joints , and grease your rearveiw mirror reflexion modifiier., and bleed your fuel system

its caster and thats it. the panhard has dick all to do with the death shakes, thered a huge diference between a little shimmy in a corner and the death wobles..besides that the only thing the panhard does in the super duties is help a little in steering precision....there isnt enough suspension travel in them to cause bump steer on a stock truck... and besides that. in order for a panhard to be in cohoots with the drag link they must be the SAME LENGTH AND ANGLE which is not the case in the super duties, not even close.... get the caster between 6- 8 degrees and if the ball joints and tie rods are good you should be ok.......ps steering stabilizers are only a cover-up for a poorly setup/maintained front end (with exeption, of-course) this thread prooves that having only a little knowledge is worse than having none at all, with all this advice on here you end up getting your tires balaced 8 times, change your frame, panhard bushings, then a new panhard bar , maby even rotate your u joints , and grease your rearveiw mirror reflexion modifiier., and bleed your fuel system



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i think i luv you man.... :clown:

its caster and thats it. the panhard has dick all to do with the death shakes
THANK YOU
15 years of alignments and 100s of lift kits a guy learns a little about this shit

not that this is related to the shakes, but is the nine inch lift all suspension or 6 and a 3" body.. I say 6" is the limit to lift without x over steering, and I like it a 5". You`d lose some steering response at those heights without it. If you get someone to steer your truck left and right and notice the tierod flipping up and down, thats bad... Someone showed me a real good trick to cure that (besides x over)...He took some hard rubber like conveyer belt or something , cut it round, like 1 3/4 - 2 inches diameter, and drilled a 5/8" or so hole in the center. He poped it over the tierod studs instead of the dust shields, had to put a jack under the tierod ends to compress the rubber enough to get the nut on the stud and tightened them up..... Now they are almost waterproof and the hard rubber gets rid of ALL the flip flop. Ive done it on 2 trucks myself , it doesnt affect the steering effort or return at all. You can still pump in grease, and I cant imagine water penetrating easily....This is no subtitute for X over or drop pitman arm`s, but if you see the flip flop try it.

I will further complicate things on this DW issue. I have read the threads on this subject. I stated what I was running as far as lift and tires. The lift consists of 6.5" springs and 2.5" lift from the ORU shackle reversal. I did a lift like this except all it consisted of was the shackle reversal and dual pairs of Rancho 9000x's on shock hoops. It was running 33". I did it 9 months ago and there have been no problems, whatsoever. On mine I did the shackle reversal, and then added the 6" leafs. I also have the dual Procomp adustable MX-6 reservoired shocks. The t rods are tight as is the draglink and the same with the steering box, and I have the large drop pitman arm. It wobbled yesterday once, in the afternoon after leaving work. It did not do it in the morning( when it's cooler, when I would think that a flat spot would be more noticible), it did it in the afternoon after sitting for 8 or so hours and the temp going up 30 deg.'s. This morning I started at a more gradual speed till I was over 30mph and it showed no wobble. I did the same this evening coming home and it didn't wobble. Go figure. I am going to the shop to get it realigned and rebalanced. I am also thinking of going with a ram assist, anyone running the Lee or the Howe rams, and will it handle the size tires I am running? What about the Redneck ram is it worth a look?...Mo

Wondering what the news is?

Well it has not happened since last week. What I do is not take off real quick till I have at least let theh tires rotate for a .5 mile or so. I do not speed from 0-30+ while burning rubber but I do not hesitate to to stab it right at 30 to get get it past the hump. I think that the SX'x might flat spot enough to set it off. It seems though that they must equalize rather quickly for the wobble not to even hint till they set still again for an extend period of time. It has been down for a few days as the AC compresor bearing is shot. The clutch got so hot it glowed red. No one in town had a replacement had to get it Fedexed. I take it in hopefully tomorrow. I gotta get the rear hitch done as we are pulling the trailer to WA. next month.....Mo