I am sick of my A4LD and want to upgrade. I know of several different configurations to mount up to the 4.0L. I just want to know which of the setups you all would sugest.

Keep the A4LD w/BW1354 - rebuild it with kevlar bands and a custom re-worked valve body.

C-5 w/BW1354 - uses the stock flywheel with a c-4 converter, shorter than A4LD by several inches, makes putting a doubler in easier cause of the shorter tranny, can also use a c-4 valve body in this tranny.

C-4 w/Dana20 - use the c-5 bell housing and stock A4 flywheel with c-4 converter, not sure of the avalible doublers or after market gear sets for the dana20.

C-4 w/ C-5 output shaft and housing - set up basicly like the c-4/dana20 only with the c-5 output set up to use the BW1350 and 1354 t-cases.

M5OD w/BW1350 or 1354 - new flywheel, clutch pedal assy, normal auto to manual change over stuff.

With all setups other than rebuilding and beefing up the A4LD a manual tranny computer needs to be installed into the truck. This will also require minor changes to the wiring harness or just pull a harness from a juckyard truck.

Any ideas and or opinions will be helpfull. I am having a hard time making up my mind which setup should be installed.

T-18/np435 to 13-56, or ZF to 13-56

Why limit yourself to the shitty gearing of anything else?

T-18/np435 to 13-56, or ZF to 13-56

Why limit yourself to the shitty gearing of anything else?

Do you know who makes an adaptor for these transmitions? I have not found anything to mate these to the 4.0L V-6.

m5od HANDS DOWN!!

do not rebuild the A4LD or the 4r55 and 5r55 trannys...the case twists when it gets hot and you cant tell without the laser alighnment tools...

the C4/C5 is a nice tranny..but no OD..and you can pack more clutches into the packs if yer good...

what year truck?? if its a a4ld and not a 4r55/5r55 you dont have to change the comp..just leave the pigtail hangin it will idle a little high..but nothing adverse...there is a way to bypass this (there are a couple guys that could tell ya what to splice over at rrorc.com..ask Tom Cambell he knows..)

If you are going to stop at what you have listed the go with one of the c4 or c5 deals. If you plan on using a doubler then maybe go with the 5 speed. I still think the coolest would be an np435 though

c5 to 1354,

just ditched my m5od, the hydraulics are too damned finicky.

so you lose OD, just don't run as deep of a gear. 4.10's with 36/37" being an auto will be almost perfect. if thats not enough run a doubler, and be done with it.

Do you know who makes an adaptor for these transmitions? I have not found anything to mate these to the 4.0L V-6.


I'ev seen the 4 speeds adapted to them, but for the ZF you might be on your own. It might be easier/cheaper to just put a 5.0 in at the same time..

I'ev seen the 4 speeds adapted to them, but for the ZF you might be on your own. It might be easier/cheaper to just put a 5.0 in at the same time..

got any pics?

This is going in my 92 Explorer with 4.56 gears. I like the c-4/c-5 setups the best. I also have fairly easy access to a couple of B2's with c-5 trannies in them. I am not really concerned about overdrive, as this is not a truck that goes on long drives, that is why I bought a Neon (30 mpg).

I know that if the c-5 goes in it will have a c-4 valve body in it. Just because I can get a stage two valve body for a good buy. It will also have an after market RV/Towing stall converter put in. Plus I already have the 1354 t-case to bolt to the back of it.

You say I can run the automatic trany computer with the c-5 tranny? Cool, thats one less thing to contend with. I knew about moding the harness to elimenate the sensors from the A4LD, but thought I still needed the manual computer.

Thank you for all the input guys. If anyone has more ideas I would still like to hear them. Also, if someone could let me know how much a 1350 or 1354 doubler would cost me that would be cool.

Thank you for all the input guys. If anyone has more ideas I would still like to hear them. Also, if someone could let me know how much a 1350 or 1354 doubler would cost me that would be cool.


contact Ron Meyers or Tom Cambell over at RRORC.com :smokin: