I testest my compression not long ago. They all read about 100-110. I started with number one and ended with number four. So.... is that to low?

That is pathetic I am sorry to say. Stock compression is 200 psi +-17psi. Are you sure your testor os good and that you got a good seal? I can't imagine how the numbers could be that low. My engine is TIRED and uses a quart of oil every 400 miles, and it at least had numbers in the 140's.

my old motor was under 120 on two and nothing over like 140.. but it still held together at whatever the stock tach goes to for quite some time

scott

I testest my compression not long ago. They all read about 100-110. I started with number one and ended with number four. So.... is that to low?

Be interesting to do a leak-down test, or at least repeat the compression test after squirting a *small* amount of oil into the cylinder. Done correctly, no significant change means valve problems, big change is bad rings.

Have you adjusted your valves? Until that is done compression tests don't mean nuthin. Also engines that haven't been run in a while will show low.

I know that is pathetic, dont be sorry. About 3 days after I got my zuk at rocker arm broke so I had them all replaced, by Tunex. Horrile price and horrible job. They wanted me to come back. I found out why. They left them all at like .020. Every huggin one. My buddy that I used to turn some wrenches with adjusted them right. But one still has a nasty lil tick. Think I will get in there again and see.
I think the comp. tester is good. I think I had a good seal. Right after I did it, I put in some restore. So I will see what that did. Doesnt feel like much though.
I will try what GeoB suggested. If it is bad, I am happy. ODD??? No... I want to redo my engine. Going with a cam, high comp pistons and porting and polishing, boring out a little. How do ya like them apples?? Any idea what that will cost?

I just did an engine for a buddy. It was a basic long block complete rebuild. All factory and nothing fancy. I think it all added up to $820 complete. The upgrades will add to that, but as long as you do the wrenchin yourself it is still sirprisingly reasonable.

They left them all at like .020.

The Isky a lot of us run has a spec sheet that calls for sumthin like 10-12 or 12-14-- I don't recall. It is waaay to loose for me. I don't like to make such a clatter that the wimen crane their necks to see WHAT is going on! I keep mine on the edge of clattering, so I hafta adjust more often than I should.

No... I want to redo my engine.

Excellent! You will feel better after having done it yersef.

[quote]Going with a cam, high comp pistons and porting and polishing, boring out a little. How do ya like them apples?? Any idea what that will cost?/QUOTE]

Well, all bets are off if you hire it out. At home, you can make sure alla yer mating surfaces line up good, like head to header, intake to head, etc. I 'spose you could cut the valve guides shorter. Not sure I'd wanna do that but I'd consider it if the benefits were big enough. I unnerstan some folks swear by a job somebody does (Hawk?) where they open up the port(s) a lil and put a bigger seat w/ 1600 valves. 'Sposed to go like stink but I have no 1st hand knowledge. If you do go with the mods you have listed you might wanna investigate a better exhaust system. Most of us simply try to get the smoothest biggest system we can. But an expert tuner with a dyno may be able to top that, not sure. My car is my daily driver so my mods have to address economy as well as power. In my opinion the big pipe and the compression both contribute. But the polishing prolly hurts mpg, not 100% sure though. If I hadda big obstruction in my manifold I'd remove it but I don't want a mirror finish. I have read that the rough finish appreciably adds to the turbulence and mixing which in turn yields higher mpg and a cleaner burn. This turns into a very complex subject real fast and I don't wanna start *that* again so I'll leave it at that.

When you add up alla this stuff you wanna do, keep your target performance in mind. You may end up happier and richer if you simply put a 1600 in there. A cam is.. $175? A header is ~$200, then you need a bigger muffler and cat. That is another $100+. Then you need someone to weld it up unless you are prepared to do that yersef. On top of that maybe consider the cost of an engine rebuild kit. I think some are $495-550. I have seen some for like $295 on eBay but have no idea about quality. Some include the oil pump, some don't, so compare apples 'n apples. I still have alla my receipts from rebuilding mine but ain't no way I'm gonna add em up.

With the 1600 you need the engine and the swap kit and I dunno what else if any. I talked to Petroworks (800-952-8915 ) when I was considering fixin' up my Sidekick. They had decent prices on their engines. I 'spose others do too. Shop around. I doubt it would cost much more to rebuild a 1600 with those mods than a 1300.